$8,500 ticking sound!
03-01-2014, 02:18 PM
#61
Race Director
150,000 miles should not be the death of a $50,000 plus car.
Cheaper to rebuild the motor if the car is in otherwise decent condition. Beats new car payments, insurance and registration.
Your $$$
Cheaper to rebuild the motor if the car is in otherwise decent condition. Beats new car payments, insurance and registration.
Your $$$
03-01-2014, 02:45 PM
#62
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2014
Location: Shady Point Oklahoma
Posts: 868
Received 811 Likes
on
221 Posts
2023 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2022 C1 of the Year Winner - Unmodified
I had a very similar noise about a year ago in my '05. Tracked it down to an exhaust leak.
03-01-2014, 03:40 PM
#63
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Northern, VA
Posts: 46,128
Received 2,491 Likes
on
1,952 Posts
St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
03-01-2014, 07:59 PM
#65
Instructor
Don't know if this applies to early c6 engines, I have 2005 with 97K no noises yet,
but I have encountered C5's with around 100k that have developed a bit of a knock from piston skirts rocking a bit and they usually never fail, just worry their owners. Your guy says the noise is deeper down in block, maybe your ticking is something like this.
Make sense?
but I have encountered C5's with around 100k that have developed a bit of a knock from piston skirts rocking a bit and they usually never fail, just worry their owners. Your guy says the noise is deeper down in block, maybe your ticking is something like this.
Make sense?
03-01-2014, 10:38 PM
#66
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2010
Location: Clearwater Florida
Posts: 1,046
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Drive the car until the engine really goes then spend the $8.5K. I know that it is difficult to hear that ticking.
Back in the '90's I had an '80's Cadillac that I bought new that developed a ticking lifter. No one wanted to repair those old aluminum Cadillac motors because they often warped if they were ever overheated. With 130,000 miles, I was ready to junk the otherwise good car. My brother-in-law asked if he could have it for his son and I agreed. He drove it back to Wyoming from Indiana, and his three kids drove that car another 100k miles through high school and college. Engine still ticked, but it just kept going. Granted that old Cadillac wasn't a 6000 rpm motor, but still it just kept going......
My point is that if you can live with it, let it tick until it quits.
Back in the '90's I had an '80's Cadillac that I bought new that developed a ticking lifter. No one wanted to repair those old aluminum Cadillac motors because they often warped if they were ever overheated. With 130,000 miles, I was ready to junk the otherwise good car. My brother-in-law asked if he could have it for his son and I agreed. He drove it back to Wyoming from Indiana, and his three kids drove that car another 100k miles through high school and college. Engine still ticked, but it just kept going. Granted that old Cadillac wasn't a 6000 rpm motor, but still it just kept going......
My point is that if you can live with it, let it tick until it quits.
03-01-2014, 10:51 PM
#67
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
Posts: 23,983
Received 2,064 Likes
on
1,372 Posts
St. Jude Donor '13
Nobody has recommended getting a sample of your engine oil analyised?
You want a least a couple of thousand miles on the oil, get some drained for a sample or do an oil change and catch some from the middle of the flow. Send to Blackstone Labs (Google) and for less than $30 they should be able to tell you if there is a major problem and some minor ones.
Our 2006 LS2 and now 2009 LS3 were/are both noisy engines- not the exhaust, but the engine itself. All sorts ticks and rumbles and stuff with the hood open. Most similar Corvettes sound similar, and my oil analysis comes back normal. Now at 66k miles on the 2009 and it still runs great.
After a while you get used to the noise.
"It's not a bug, it's a feature!"
EDIT:
An oil analysis can spot major problems with less than a thousand miles on the oil, it's just that you get a better picture with more miles. Call Blackstone for details.
You want a least a couple of thousand miles on the oil, get some drained for a sample or do an oil change and catch some from the middle of the flow. Send to Blackstone Labs (Google) and for less than $30 they should be able to tell you if there is a major problem and some minor ones.
Our 2006 LS2 and now 2009 LS3 were/are both noisy engines- not the exhaust, but the engine itself. All sorts ticks and rumbles and stuff with the hood open. Most similar Corvettes sound similar, and my oil analysis comes back normal. Now at 66k miles on the 2009 and it still runs great.
After a while you get used to the noise.
"It's not a bug, it's a feature!"
EDIT:
An oil analysis can spot major problems with less than a thousand miles on the oil, it's just that you get a better picture with more miles. Call Blackstone for details.
Last edited by Gearhead Jim; 03-02-2014 at 08:33 AM.
03-02-2014, 09:16 AM
#68
Did that "corvette mechanic" use a stethescope? If not I would be leery of his credentials recommended or not.you can absolutely rule out any drive belt accessories and exhaust leaks with a properly wielded stethescope. That said, I agree with most of the knowledgable mech's comments. Most likely valve train components with 150k on the engine. If so I would rebuild it with performance cam,crank,pistons,valves, and roller rockers. you'll have more horses and a bullet proof fresh engine. 150 k is about the life expectancy if it was driven hard by a previous owner.
03-02-2014, 11:16 AM
#69
Drifting
Did that "corvette mechanic" use a stethescope? If not I would be leery of his credentials recommended or not.you can absolutely rule out any drive belt accessories and exhaust leaks with a properly wielded stethescope. That said, I agree with most of the knowledgable mech's comments. Most likely valve train components with 150k on the engine. If so I would rebuild it with performance cam,crank,pistons,valves, and roller rockers. you'll have more horses and a bullet proof fresh engine. 150 k is about the life expectancy if it was driven hard by a previous owner.
Good advice... I'm a former trained Mercedes tech and still do all the work on my own cars. The fact that it's not there when cold points me more towards exhaust leak (cracked manifold) and valve train. Lifters being the main suspect. GM has themselves upgraded the lifters since 05'. Modern engines can go almost indefinitely if well maintained. Unless abused, a top end rebuild is all you should need and the engine will go another 150k. This is yet another example of why dealers are good for nothing except warranty work when the factory is paying and independent techs are a craps shoot. The state of the car repair business is truly tragic. Good luck
H
03-02-2014, 11:46 PM
#71
Racer
Member Since: Dec 2012
Location: West Palm Beach Florida
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mine started making a loud tick, ended up being a lifter. I tried different oils, Marvel Mystery.. Etc. The noise was hard to hear with 10w-30 Dino oil but faintly present. My lifter ended up taking out the cam and putting tons of metal shavings in the motor. I pulled the motor myself and now and going forged and twin turbo.
Don't keep driving it or you'll end up like me with a ruined cam and the thought of all those metal shavings in the motor.
Don't keep driving it or you'll end up like me with a ruined cam and the thought of all those metal shavings in the motor.
03-02-2014, 11:49 PM
#72
Racer
Member Since: Dec 2012
Location: West Palm Beach Florida
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
03-04-2014, 08:04 PM
#73
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Conroe Texas
Posts: 35,512
Received 866 Likes
on
609 Posts
CI 1-4-5-8-9-10 Vet
St. Jude Donor '03,'04,'05,'07,08,'09,'10,’17
Hopefully it is something simple like a lifter or an exhaust leak. The odds of it being both is slim. Someone that knows what to listen for should be able to tell you for certain if it's exhaust or not. You mentioned an experienced mechanic said it was low in the motor. If that's the case, it's toast. A lot of people mention rebuilding the top end. The problem with that is getting a solid diagnosis. Bottom line is you don't want to spend the money to rebuild the top end unless you are absolutely certain that is where the problem is.
Assuming you determine it's in the bottom end, I know I would NOT spend the money to rebuild it when I could buy a brand new LS3 crate motor for about $6K
Assuming you determine it's in the bottom end, I know I would NOT spend the money to rebuild it when I could buy a brand new LS3 crate motor for about $6K
03-04-2014, 08:47 PM
#74
I had a similar problem with my LS1 Z back in the day. It was a lifter which had also destroyed the camshaft. It was a blessing. I also had a closet full of new and used parts ready to do the heads and cam swap...
03-09-2014, 04:31 PM
#75
Drifting
agreement
At 150K, the car will be loose/have wear in a lot of areas that need to be serviced.
A 2005 Z-51 M-6 with around 30K miles will go for around $25K right now, so do the math on what you have in the car/what you can get out of it, and/or if you want to rebuild the car instead.
With the mileage of the car, you are pretty much at a complete strip down, and replace parts as you are putting everything back together to get the car tightened back up. If not, then you are going to be chasing your tail over and over again for the same area's if all the worn parts in that assembly are not replaced as you have them out of the car the first time around.
Simply put, unless you want to build the car into a T-1 track car, or are doing all the work yourself, then it might be time to retire the car for what you can get out of it, and pick one up a low mileage care that has not been drive to the ground instead.
I'm not saying that the car is a goner, but at that mileage, and the amount of worn parts that may need to be replaced before they go out and take something out with them as well, unless you are doing all the work on the car yourself, you never going to come out ahead.
A 2005 Z-51 M-6 with around 30K miles will go for around $25K right now, so do the math on what you have in the car/what you can get out of it, and/or if you want to rebuild the car instead.
With the mileage of the car, you are pretty much at a complete strip down, and replace parts as you are putting everything back together to get the car tightened back up. If not, then you are going to be chasing your tail over and over again for the same area's if all the worn parts in that assembly are not replaced as you have them out of the car the first time around.
Simply put, unless you want to build the car into a T-1 track car, or are doing all the work yourself, then it might be time to retire the car for what you can get out of it, and pick one up a low mileage care that has not been drive to the ground instead.
I'm not saying that the car is a goner, but at that mileage, and the amount of worn parts that may need to be replaced before they go out and take something out with them as well, unless you are doing all the work on the car yourself, you never going to come out ahead.
03-10-2014, 04:25 PM
#76
Drifting
Thanks for the great input, I am planning to take it to a dealer in the Bay Area (San Francisco). I live in a pretty rural area (Fortuna, CA). Oil Pressure is 35 at idle, 45 at speed. No difference in sound with brake held and a little gas.
I'm nearing retirement, and kind of considering keeping it as a toy. I could certainly pull the heads and examine the valve train if I had a good reference book to work from. Should I use the Service manual, or is there a better reference?
I'm also considering trading it in, but it seems like it might have little or no value as a trade in with this problem at least until it is diagnosed.
Tim
I'm nearing retirement, and kind of considering keeping it as a toy. I could certainly pull the heads and examine the valve train if I had a good reference book to work from. Should I use the Service manual, or is there a better reference?
I'm also considering trading it in, but it seems like it might have little or no value as a trade in with this problem at least until it is diagnosed.
Tim
07-27-2014, 07:26 AM
#77
Drifting
Hello, looking for advice.
My 2005 with 150K miles started making a ticking sound about 3 weeks ago. Comes from the engine, changes frequency with engine RPM, comes and goes.
Took it to dealer, they replaced the harmonic balancer, sound still there. Now they say they think it is the camshaft bearings, but need to take the engine out of the car and disassemble it to know for sure. $2,300. If it is, they recommend engine replacement, $8,500 P&L.
Any suggestions?
TIA
Tim
My 2005 with 150K miles started making a ticking sound about 3 weeks ago. Comes from the engine, changes frequency with engine RPM, comes and goes.
Took it to dealer, they replaced the harmonic balancer, sound still there. Now they say they think it is the camshaft bearings, but need to take the engine out of the car and disassemble it to know for sure. $2,300. If it is, they recommend engine replacement, $8,500 P&L.
Any suggestions?
TIA
Tim
07-27-2014, 09:03 AM
#78
Racer
One mans tick is another mans tock!
If'n it was me....
1. decide if I love my car enough to keep it after a couple thousand dollar repair.
2..If yes, then try to pin down the problem. What follows are tests. a. Open the oil filter and read the pleats. A lot of shiney stuff can mean cam. You need a magnet to help. Good mechanic can help you diagnose. b. Put 5 qts of 50w oil in it and hear it run cold. Does it quiet down? Don't run until it gets hot. Drain oil and replace with the good stuff you saved when doing this test. Now do the stethoscope test before and after.
3. If no..... Kiss it good by. Join the C7 Forum!
If'n it was me....
1. decide if I love my car enough to keep it after a couple thousand dollar repair.
2..If yes, then try to pin down the problem. What follows are tests. a. Open the oil filter and read the pleats. A lot of shiney stuff can mean cam. You need a magnet to help. Good mechanic can help you diagnose. b. Put 5 qts of 50w oil in it and hear it run cold. Does it quiet down? Don't run until it gets hot. Drain oil and replace with the good stuff you saved when doing this test. Now do the stethoscope test before and after.
3. If no..... Kiss it good by. Join the C7 Forum!
07-27-2014, 10:23 AM
#79
Drifting
Would you rather have a monthly payment of $900 or fix a car for 3 grand (<4 monthly payments.)
The prob is these cars look AWESOME. I would trade it in if I had an Acura, Mazda, Toyota, Honda whatever.
The prob is these cars look AWESOME. I would trade it in if I had an Acura, Mazda, Toyota, Honda whatever.