I Need a Warranty
#1
I Need a Warranty
Do any members know where to get a reasonably priced extended warranty. 2008 Vette 85,000 miles. Looking for at least 3 years 36,000. If anyone can point me in the right direction that would be great. Thanks
#2
Team Owner
Is there coverage on it now?
Are you familiar with so called extended warranties? They aren't warranties, they are insurance policies. Without going into great detail, if you can't get GMPP coverage, most here advise against anything else as most are next to useless and a waste of money.
Are you familiar with so called extended warranties? They aren't warranties, they are insurance policies. Without going into great detail, if you can't get GMPP coverage, most here advise against anything else as most are next to useless and a waste of money.
#3
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
And, in which case, based on the above advice by Rick, I would talk with Dennis at Fichtner Chev. a forum sponsor here. Altho I know he sells GM's prepaid service plan aka GMPP, he also sells another brand. To my knowledge no one has had to "collect" on it. Yet. That will be the time when the rubber meets the road, or when someone gets paid easily, or not. So the operative phrase, caveat emptor, is very appropriate.
Or, you could begin socking away money for repairs which will, eventually, come to pass. It's just a matter of time...
Or, you could begin socking away money for repairs which will, eventually, come to pass. It's just a matter of time...
#4
Instructor
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NCM Sinkhole Donor
I purchased my 08 C6 Base from a Chevy Dealer and purchased an extended warranty(insurance ) from EasyCare, I have seen some negative post about them but I discovered my Power Seat did not work and Horn and EC paid for all of the cost but the $100.00 deductible.
#5
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
I suspect the cost of an extended warranty for a 6 year old car with 85,000 miles isn't worth it. You're asking for one that would cover the car until it's 9 years old and well over 100,000 miles. Why do you think you need one?
#6
Melting Slicks
And, in which case, based on the above advice by Rick, I would talk with Dennis at Fichtner Chev. a forum sponsor here. Altho I know he sells GM's prepaid service plan aka GMPP, he also sells another brand. To my knowledge no one has had to "collect" on it. Yet. That will be the time when the rubber meets the road, or when someone gets paid easily, or not. So the operative phrase, caveat emptor, is very appropriate.
Or, you could begin socking away money for repairs which will, eventually, come to pass. It's just a matter of time...
Or, you could begin socking away money for repairs which will, eventually, come to pass. It's just a matter of time...
#7
Burning Brakes
OK, so….newb question here. I'm not trying to derail this thread, but I'm wondering how the GMPP works and what time constraints are in place to buy it for a car that is still under warranty. I bought a '13 GS new this past June, so the car is still covered under the 3/36 factory warranty plan. When should I think about looking into the GMPP? I presume it should be purchased prior to the factory plan expiring? I've never been one to put down more money on extended warranty plans, but given the complexity of the modern Vettes and the number of threads about the 'inconsistent' build quality from GM, I'm rethinking my decision. Thx for the help!
#8
Race Director
OK, so….newb question here. I'm not trying to derail this thread, but I'm wondering how the GMPP works and what time constraints are in place to buy it for a car that is still under warranty. I bought a '13 GS new this past June, so the car is still covered under the 3/36 factory warranty plan. When should I think about looking into the GMPP? I presume it should be purchased prior to the factory plan expiring?
A "GMPP" must be purchsed before the facory 3/36 expires.
Can renew a GMPP once after initial underwriting policy's issued.
Otherwise, you're into finding another warranty.
Bought a GMPP before the 3/36 expired on my '08 Z06, will renew it once again next Spring. Will help sell the car in the future (w/ a $50 xfer fee to new owner) I'd hope, otherwise I'll just cashout the unused portion. Personally I'd have traded the car had I not been able to get good coverage on my Z.
C6s can run a bill to the Moon very quick, somethig you realize.
Major failures notwithstanding a new LS7 at ~$18K installed for me c/would totally ruin the Corvette ownership experience, forever.
#9
There are threads on this, but from what I've read I guess the best time to buy one is during the month or two just prior to your factory warranty running out. But the best one to ask is Dennis Fichtner dfichtner@fichtnerchevrolet.com (hoepfully that address still works)
#10
Burning Brakes
I already sent Dennis an email and received a quote, but if it's gonna be the same price or cheaper 2.5 years from now, I'll keep my money for awhile.
#11
Race Director
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Mods are one very serious thing to consider. Other than minor cosmetic changes, many/most mods open the door to warranty claims being denied.
Since it's a rare event for a bone stock car to have major issues, insurance companies continue to profit from perceived fear. For those so inclined to buy those policies, check the small print carefully if you have or intend any mods.
Since it's a rare event for a bone stock car to have major issues, insurance companies continue to profit from perceived fear. For those so inclined to buy those policies, check the small print carefully if you have or intend any mods.
#12
A family member at the dealership where i bought my car forced me to get a fidelity warranty (http://www.fidelitywarrantyservices.com/default.aspx) and i'm glad i did. I only dealt with them once but it was a great experience. I was expecting to get a run around, excuse riddled conversation but it was the quickest phone call i made. I had my harmonic balancer go and called to find out what to do and they simply said go to whatever dealer you want and give them your policy number... Easy as pie and a $100 deductible later i was on my way home with a new HB... (one day turnaround time) i paid a very good price for the warranty through my family member and it paid for itself with that one visit...
#13
I do believe GMPP is the best option... it should be purchased before factory warranty expires... it costs $50 to transfer it... and I do believe it is a valid selling point to some people that it is in place if they want it and don't want to modify heavily a used vehicle purchase. My 2 cents. Personally, I wouldn't buy a used car without a Factory Warranty or extended GMPP... but that's me. If you plan to modify the car extensively.. it probably is a non-issue.
#14
Le Mans Master
As I have said numerous times, if you can't afford to repair a car then you can't afford to own it. GMPP is the only one that people don't consistently complain about. But it isn't sold to lose money. The company is always going to bring in more money from you and others than they pay out. Next, the others you are competing against to get some of your money back are people who do more damage to their cars than average. It's called adverse selection. People who take care of their cars tend to look at the cost of insurance and decide they don't need it that much. People who don't and keep breaking things are the ones who think they can save money by "investing" in a policy. So the average repair costs by people who buy insurance is going to be higher than the average of those who don't. The insurance company then hikes the price to make sure they still charge more than the average repair costs so they can pay the administration costs and sales costs and still make a profit.
Bottom line, put the money the insurance would cost in a sock and put it under your mattress. IF you ever need repairs, get the money to pay for them out of the sock. With a little care and the reliability of the C6 you should find that you have a lot left over when the insurance would have expired.
Bottom line, put the money the insurance would cost in a sock and put it under your mattress. IF you ever need repairs, get the money to pay for them out of the sock. With a little care and the reliability of the C6 you should find that you have a lot left over when the insurance would have expired.
#15
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
Ft. Morgan's post is one way to think of it, and not unreasonable. And then there is the unintended consequences happening, which includes several major bills all in a row, and THEN your car breaks something major, and costly. That's when "insurance" (which an "extended warranty" is not) may be of some benefit to you.
As to buying the "extended warranty" before during or after your existing warranty (3/36, which is bumper to bumper and quite a bit better than any/all aftermarket after-existing warranty expires) here's a possible explanation. If you buy your "extended warranty" while you still have your 3/36, you are paying twice and with not all that much coverage as the 3/36. If you buy it just as your 3/36 is ending, that is most likely the cost-effective way to do it.
BUT, planning is critical. Wait until the last week of your 36 months out beyond the IN-SERVICE date of your car (not necessarily the day you bought it), and you may just go over the time limit---and it is a real eye-opener re the costs of an "extended warranty" if you do go past that time. You will not be between a rock and a hard place; you just have to know the date when your 3/36 will expire and plan to not miss that date, or let anything miss that date for you. So, getting the policy in place a month before your 3/36 expires will not cost you so much but will give you peace of mind if that's the route you will take 3 weeks later.
Also, read the GMPP website on what is, and what is not covered. It is very clear and easy to understand. No mumbo jumbo. Even then people will come on CF and ask, "Are my shocks covered since I have GMPP?" No, and it's very clearly listed as one of the things that is NOT.
As to whether it's more cost-effective to buy it at a lower price early after purchase, or later when your 3/36 is about to expire, this is where it can remind you of life insurance costs. The later you wait until you, or in this case, the car may need it, the more it will cost you. But, there is/are lines that cross somewhere as to when one cost becomes too expensive and when it is still "reasonable." Just as in life insurance, that line and where it crosses is up to each person and can vary.
Maybe $700 for what is almost double coverage on Day 1 of a new car purchase (your 3/36 is in effect and so is your GMPP simultaneously) is a good figure you can live with. But the "extended warranty" company is also "living with" your $700 2 years and 11 months before you really needed to give it to them, and they can "make money on your money" for all that time. But maybe $1300 later on sounds like a good deal to get an "extended warranty" for 48 more months AFTER your 3/36 expires. It's only $600 more and you get to keep your money for almost 3 full years.
It all depends on what you want and choose to afford.
As to buying the "extended warranty" before during or after your existing warranty (3/36, which is bumper to bumper and quite a bit better than any/all aftermarket after-existing warranty expires) here's a possible explanation. If you buy your "extended warranty" while you still have your 3/36, you are paying twice and with not all that much coverage as the 3/36. If you buy it just as your 3/36 is ending, that is most likely the cost-effective way to do it.
BUT, planning is critical. Wait until the last week of your 36 months out beyond the IN-SERVICE date of your car (not necessarily the day you bought it), and you may just go over the time limit---and it is a real eye-opener re the costs of an "extended warranty" if you do go past that time. You will not be between a rock and a hard place; you just have to know the date when your 3/36 will expire and plan to not miss that date, or let anything miss that date for you. So, getting the policy in place a month before your 3/36 expires will not cost you so much but will give you peace of mind if that's the route you will take 3 weeks later.
Also, read the GMPP website on what is, and what is not covered. It is very clear and easy to understand. No mumbo jumbo. Even then people will come on CF and ask, "Are my shocks covered since I have GMPP?" No, and it's very clearly listed as one of the things that is NOT.
As to whether it's more cost-effective to buy it at a lower price early after purchase, or later when your 3/36 is about to expire, this is where it can remind you of life insurance costs. The later you wait until you, or in this case, the car may need it, the more it will cost you. But, there is/are lines that cross somewhere as to when one cost becomes too expensive and when it is still "reasonable." Just as in life insurance, that line and where it crosses is up to each person and can vary.
Maybe $700 for what is almost double coverage on Day 1 of a new car purchase (your 3/36 is in effect and so is your GMPP simultaneously) is a good figure you can live with. But the "extended warranty" company is also "living with" your $700 2 years and 11 months before you really needed to give it to them, and they can "make money on your money" for all that time. But maybe $1300 later on sounds like a good deal to get an "extended warranty" for 48 more months AFTER your 3/36 expires. It's only $600 more and you get to keep your money for almost 3 full years.
It all depends on what you want and choose to afford.
Last edited by AORoads; 01-29-2014 at 08:09 AM.
#16
Le Mans Master
Is this true? I admit to being a newb as far as buying new vehicles as well as buying an extended warranty, but it would seem to me that the sooner you purchase the GMPP after acquiring the vehicle, the cheaper it would be--reasoning is that they'd have your cash in hand earlier than later. Plus, if you're a month or so away from expiry, you're kind' caught between a rock and a hard place….
I already sent Dennis an email and received a quote, but if it's gonna be the same price or cheaper 2.5 years from now, I'll keep my money for awhile.
I already sent Dennis an email and received a quote, but if it's gonna be the same price or cheaper 2.5 years from now, I'll keep my money for awhile.
However, you cant wait until the absolute last minute, because I think to get GMPP, your original 3/36 warranty must have at least 2 months and 2,000 miles left on it, but I'd ask Mr. Fitchner to be sure.
Cheers,
Kent
Last edited by Kent1999; 01-29-2014 at 10:40 AM.
#17
Burning Brakes
Kent: Thx for the clarification. I understand what you're saying. What I didn't realize was that the GMPP would start timing out as soon as I bought it. I presumed since it was actually offered by GM, the extended protection period was tacked on after the initial factory warranty ran out. Doesn't really make sense to me, but now I at least have a couple of years to consider whether to spend the extra bucks or not.
#18
As I have said numerous times, if you can't afford to repair a car then you can't afford to own it. GMPP is the only one that people don't consistently complain about. But it isn't sold to lose money. The company is always going to bring in more money from you and others than they pay out. Next, the others you are competing against to get some of your money back are people who do more damage to their cars than average. It's called adverse selection. People who take care of their cars tend to look at the cost of insurance and decide they don't need it that much. People who don't and keep breaking things are the ones who think they can save money by "investing" in a policy. So the average repair costs by people who buy insurance is going to be higher than the average of those who don't. The insurance company then hikes the price to make sure they still charge more than the average repair costs so they can pay the administration costs and sales costs and still make a profit.
Bottom line, put the money the insurance would cost in a sock and put it under your mattress. IF you ever need repairs, get the money to pay for them out of the sock. With a little care and the reliability of the C6 you should find that you have a lot left over when the insurance would have expired.
Bottom line, put the money the insurance would cost in a sock and put it under your mattress. IF you ever need repairs, get the money to pay for them out of the sock. With a little care and the reliability of the C6 you should find that you have a lot left over when the insurance would have expired.
#19
Le Mans Master
Life is a series of events and when you push the envelope you can sometimes get into trouble. This goes for driving too fast as well as spending at the limit. Sure it can be fun and the tow truck drivers and insurance salesmen will both enjoy spending your money as much as you would have. Personally, I just think it is better to make sure you can afford your fun first and then have more fun later with what you would have spent on the insurance. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delayed_gratification If you can afford the car you should be able to afford the repairs in the rare case that you need them. Then you can spend that $1,000 on something more fun than a piece of paper that is worthless in 3 years and that most likely never returned a penny.
Last edited by FortMorganAl; 01-30-2014 at 09:09 AM.
#20
First of all thanks for all the positive and negative responses, but let me tell you all I have always purchased pre owned vettes and always self insured for repairs. Someone suggested I look into one for this 08,all I was looking for was exactly what some of you wrote. But it's not anyone's business whether someone can or cannot afford to own a car and pay for repairs. Maybe there are people who would rather pay 3000 up front for a policy so over the next few years gives them piece of mind that if a major covered item goes bad it will cost the 100,rather than $2000 here and $1000 there and $2000 here. Etc.... Thanks again for all the responses. Btw with all the toys I have,boat, motorcycle, 4 cars, it might make sense for me to get one.
UOTE=FortMorganAl;1586040402]As I have said numerous times, if you can't afford to repair a car then you can't afford to own it. GMPP is the only one that people don't consistently complain about. But it isn't sold to lose money. The company is always going to bring in more money from you and others than they pay out. Next, the others you are competing against to get some of your money back are people who do more damage to their cars than average. It's called adverse selection. People who take care of their cars tend to look at the cost of insurance and decide they don't need it that much. People who don't and keep breaking things are the ones who think they can save money by "investing" in a policy. So the average repair costs by people who buy insurance is going to be higher than the average of those who don't. The insurance company then hikes the price to make sure they still charge more than the average repair costs so they can pay the administration costs and sales costs and still make a profit.
Bottom line, put the money the insurance would cost in a sock and put it under your mattress. IF you ever need repairs, get the money to pay for them out of the sock. With a little care and the reliability of the C6 you should find that you have a lot left over when the insurance would have expired.[/QUOTE]
UOTE=FortMorganAl;1586040402]As I have said numerous times, if you can't afford to repair a car then you can't afford to own it. GMPP is the only one that people don't consistently complain about. But it isn't sold to lose money. The company is always going to bring in more money from you and others than they pay out. Next, the others you are competing against to get some of your money back are people who do more damage to their cars than average. It's called adverse selection. People who take care of their cars tend to look at the cost of insurance and decide they don't need it that much. People who don't and keep breaking things are the ones who think they can save money by "investing" in a policy. So the average repair costs by people who buy insurance is going to be higher than the average of those who don't. The insurance company then hikes the price to make sure they still charge more than the average repair costs so they can pay the administration costs and sales costs and still make a profit.
Bottom line, put the money the insurance would cost in a sock and put it under your mattress. IF you ever need repairs, get the money to pay for them out of the sock. With a little care and the reliability of the C6 you should find that you have a lot left over when the insurance would have expired.[/QUOTE]