Clutch stuck down while racing
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Clutch stuck down while racing
I'm wondering if anyone knows what causes this. I took my 08 c6 to the drag strip last weekend and the clutch stuck to the floor after shifting into second. I fumbled around trying anything to get it to work. I made a stellar pass of 25.5 seconds at 56mph. A guy in the stands came down and told me he was a certified chevy mechanic and I needed a new clutch. He said I "burnt it all the way down the track". I tried a couple of hard launches after and everything seemed to work fine. I can't seem to find anything wrong with it other than the one time. My question is, did I do something wrong like launch with too much rpm, or did having the traction control on cause this? or is there something wrong with the slave or clutch? I would appreciate any input.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
#5
CF Senior Member
Member Since: Feb 2006
Location: Tucson Arizona
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I doubt traction control had anything to do with your clutch issue but IMO anytime you go WOT always shutoff traction control. You don't want the system 'fighting' your efforts to accelerate (feather the throttle if need be). For straight line racing comp mode might be helpful or if your comfortable doing so, shutoff all the nannies.
Obviously, high RPM launches off-the-line are extremely hard on drive-line components. Your problem could be caused by a number of things. Just for good measure check your clutch return assist spring (I doubt that's the problem but worth checking never-the-less). Do try to keep your clutch fluid clean per the 'Ranger Method.' If you race a lot consider using a better grade fluid such as Motul 600.
I'm an avid road racer. I rarely do off-the-line launches but otherwise I'm constantly up-shifting and downshifting at high RPM's. Even putting-down a fair amount of power my stock clutch worked flawlessly for years. I religiously flush out and replace the clutch fluid per the 'Ranger Method.' Then at some point a few years ago my clutch pedal would periodically stick about halfway down when shifting...not all the time but occasionally and especially when the car was hot. The pedal might stick part way down once or twice during an entire weekend but the problem persisted on and off for a long time. Eventually I replaced the slave and master cylinders and the problem still happened every so often. Ultimately, I had to replace the clutch to completely cure the problem.
Try the simplest 'fixes' first and see what happens. I hope you don't need to but if you do ever replace the clutch have them install a remote drain valve. Bleeding the clutch (like to purge air in the system) is a PITA. Having an easy to access remote drain valve makes it much easier. Let us know what happens and if the problem persists....good luck.
Obviously, high RPM launches off-the-line are extremely hard on drive-line components. Your problem could be caused by a number of things. Just for good measure check your clutch return assist spring (I doubt that's the problem but worth checking never-the-less). Do try to keep your clutch fluid clean per the 'Ranger Method.' If you race a lot consider using a better grade fluid such as Motul 600.
I'm an avid road racer. I rarely do off-the-line launches but otherwise I'm constantly up-shifting and downshifting at high RPM's. Even putting-down a fair amount of power my stock clutch worked flawlessly for years. I religiously flush out and replace the clutch fluid per the 'Ranger Method.' Then at some point a few years ago my clutch pedal would periodically stick about halfway down when shifting...not all the time but occasionally and especially when the car was hot. The pedal might stick part way down once or twice during an entire weekend but the problem persisted on and off for a long time. Eventually I replaced the slave and master cylinders and the problem still happened every so often. Ultimately, I had to replace the clutch to completely cure the problem.
Try the simplest 'fixes' first and see what happens. I hope you don't need to but if you do ever replace the clutch have them install a remote drain valve. Bleeding the clutch (like to purge air in the system) is a PITA. Having an easy to access remote drain valve makes it much easier. Let us know what happens and if the problem persists....good luck.
#6
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jul 2013
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I can't see the link, but I am willing to bet you slipped the clutch too much, and overheated the fluid. It boiled the fluid, causing the pedal to stick to the floor. That is why it happened once and has not returned.
#7
Safety Car
Careful. Went through 3 transmissions in my Z28, always preceded by a stuck clutch or stuck shifter. Synchros were crappy each time. 4th transmission held for 75,000 miles when I sold the car. It was still buttery smooth at 168,000.
Drag racing is tough on clutches, fluid, and transmissions.
Drag racing is tough on clutches, fluid, and transmissions.
Last edited by ProfessorDeath; 10-08-2013 at 12:44 AM.
#8
Burning Brakes
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Fbodies were notorious for having a clutch master that was too small. The cylinder would empty on quick shifts, but was not able to fill back up in time. Vettes do not have that problem.
#10
Melting Slicks
lots of times this is caused by over heated fluid or a weak clutch master cylinder. try flushing the fluid a few times (until it is clean) you may eventually have to change the master (I run a Tick)
I also found that by removing the inspection covers on the front of the bell housing (behind the starter & oil filter), the air moving through helps the accumulation of clutch dust that causes the slave cylinder to stick. I also wash the H... out ot the bellhousing with brake cleaner every year.
I also found that by removing the inspection covers on the front of the bell housing (behind the starter & oil filter), the air moving through helps the accumulation of clutch dust that causes the slave cylinder to stick. I also wash the H... out ot the bellhousing with brake cleaner every year.