Techron and the fuel gauge...
#41
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
Good conversation betw. Jim and LDB.
#42
Melting Slicks
There's another downside to 'over using' these cleaners..at least the ones that actually do something. The combustion chamber is not 100% sealed, so things get past the rings and into your oil. We refer to that as as blow-by gasses. If you are over doing the additives/cleaners (albeit by a lot) this stuff is getting into your oil. That's the last place you want this type of solvent to be.
I remember a warning about this very thing back when German auto manufacturers called out Techron by name. I believe it actually said either on the bottle or in the service literature not to do more than 1 treatment per oil change.
I agree. I remember when I was using this stuff on 'P' cars back in the 80's, you would remove the top from the bottle and you could literally see fumes escaping. The modern formulation doesn't do that so I am pretty sure the recipe has changed. Refiners have had time to figure out what works. Referring back to what I said above, I believe there is no such warning about using it more than 1x per oil change now...in fact I think now the bottle says do it every 3k miles, but too much of a good thing isn't always better.
I remember a warning about this very thing back when German auto manufacturers called out Techron by name. I believe it actually said either on the bottle or in the service literature not to do more than 1 treatment per oil change.
I agree. I remember when I was using this stuff on 'P' cars back in the 80's, you would remove the top from the bottle and you could literally see fumes escaping. The modern formulation doesn't do that so I am pretty sure the recipe has changed. Refiners have had time to figure out what works. Referring back to what I said above, I believe there is no such warning about using it more than 1x per oil change now...in fact I think now the bottle says do it every 3k miles, but too much of a good thing isn't always better.
#43
Le Mans Master
I have been switching stations for over 40 years and I had proven it worked 30 years ago. But now that you mention it, I have noticed that there really seems to be no difference after switching now like there used to be. I attributed that to the fact that I have a really clean engine all the time but what you say makes sense to me. I always use Top Tier but I'm going to stop going out of my way to go to a different station occasionally and see if there is any difference in a year or so.
#44
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St. Jude Donor '13
As you say, what follows is simply an educated guess. First some general background. As far as is known, the underlying reason that too much detergent makes things worse is that some fraction of the time, when a detergent molecule hits the hot surface of a valve, or piston crown, or combustion chamber, then rather than the molecule holding together and doing its “detergent thing”, the molecule degrades and forms deposits of its own. As you add more and more detergent, this happens more and more often. At the same time, if you start from zero detergent and then start adding detergent, the initial bit of detergent gets rid of a lot of gunk, but as things get cleaner and cleaner, there is less and less gunk to remove. So at some point, and this is the point of maximum detergent effectiveness, things are so clean already that if you add more detergent, there is so little gunk left that you add more deposits from the detergent than you subtract from the action of the detergent.
For this picture to change from using different additives (Shell, Chevron, Exxon, etc), then the additives would have to work via fundamentally different mechanisms. In other words, just to make a stupid example but one that will get the idea across, suppose the Shell additive was great at removing sand, but lousy at dirt and grease, Chevron was great at dirt, but lousy at sand and grease, and Exxon great at grease, but lousy at sand and dirt. Then mixing them together would make sense. Indeed, if you go back 20 years, there was a lot of truth in that view. Detergent technology as applied to cars was pretty much in its infancy, being spurred by the ever increasing demands for engine cleanliness to meet emissions standards. But these days, while everybody’s additives are a bit different due to patents, licensing, and search for competitive advantage, the differences between how they work and how effective they are, are getting smaller and smaller. I assume you know that Techron is not a specific and unchanging compound, any more than Shell’s “nitrogen enriched” package is a specific compound. They are simply marketing buzzwords, and all of the actual additive packages are constantly evolving blends of things to get the best possible job done. I wouldn’t go quite so far as to suggest that there’s now zero advantage to using different brand additives at different times, but it’s getting to the point that as long as you are using top tier something, differences are small.
The last issue is the “blow it out” strategy, where you use top tier without extra additives most of the time, but add a can of something every 10000 miles or so in hopes of knocking off any stuff that may have built up. Trouble is, you know that the extra can of detergent will add some extra detergent deposits. Not much, but also not zero. And the thing is, if you’ve consistently been using top tier, you’re not going to have many deposits to remove. Might you knock off a smidgen of deposits? Sure. Might you knock off a smidgen more if you use a different brand? Maybe. But remember, you a putting a smidgen on in the form of detergent deposits. So which smidgen is bigger? Ahhh, the $64,000 question, and I’ve come back to admitting that I don’t know. But perhaps if nothing else, I’ve explained why that beyond the statement that differences will be small, the answer of exactly which one is best is not obvious.
I guess I lied when I said the last paragraph was the last issue. I should mention one other thing. If you know you have a dirty engine from using cheapo fuel, or you know you are having a fuel gauge problem, than as the GM paper says, and as many posts have said on the Forum, a blast of additives can sometimes help. But your question, and the one I was addressing in the prior paragraphs of this post, is not about cleaning up a known dirty or malfunctioning engine. It is about keeping a clean, well-running engine as clean as possible. Keeping clean engines clean is a different topic than cleaning up dirty engines.
For this picture to change from using different additives (Shell, Chevron, Exxon, etc), then the additives would have to work via fundamentally different mechanisms. In other words, just to make a stupid example but one that will get the idea across, suppose the Shell additive was great at removing sand, but lousy at dirt and grease, Chevron was great at dirt, but lousy at sand and grease, and Exxon great at grease, but lousy at sand and dirt. Then mixing them together would make sense. Indeed, if you go back 20 years, there was a lot of truth in that view. Detergent technology as applied to cars was pretty much in its infancy, being spurred by the ever increasing demands for engine cleanliness to meet emissions standards. But these days, while everybody’s additives are a bit different due to patents, licensing, and search for competitive advantage, the differences between how they work and how effective they are, are getting smaller and smaller. I assume you know that Techron is not a specific and unchanging compound, any more than Shell’s “nitrogen enriched” package is a specific compound. They are simply marketing buzzwords, and all of the actual additive packages are constantly evolving blends of things to get the best possible job done. I wouldn’t go quite so far as to suggest that there’s now zero advantage to using different brand additives at different times, but it’s getting to the point that as long as you are using top tier something, differences are small.
The last issue is the “blow it out” strategy, where you use top tier without extra additives most of the time, but add a can of something every 10000 miles or so in hopes of knocking off any stuff that may have built up. Trouble is, you know that the extra can of detergent will add some extra detergent deposits. Not much, but also not zero. And the thing is, if you’ve consistently been using top tier, you’re not going to have many deposits to remove. Might you knock off a smidgen of deposits? Sure. Might you knock off a smidgen more if you use a different brand? Maybe. But remember, you a putting a smidgen on in the form of detergent deposits. So which smidgen is bigger? Ahhh, the $64,000 question, and I’ve come back to admitting that I don’t know. But perhaps if nothing else, I’ve explained why that beyond the statement that differences will be small, the answer of exactly which one is best is not obvious.
I guess I lied when I said the last paragraph was the last issue. I should mention one other thing. If you know you have a dirty engine from using cheapo fuel, or you know you are having a fuel gauge problem, than as the GM paper says, and as many posts have said on the Forum, a blast of additives can sometimes help. But your question, and the one I was addressing in the prior paragraphs of this post, is not about cleaning up a known dirty or malfunctioning engine. It is about keeping a clean, well-running engine as clean as possible. Keeping clean engines clean is a different topic than cleaning up dirty engines.
Thanks.
#45
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I had this done back in 2005. I have not had a fuel gauge problem since.
Service Information
2005 Chevrolet Corvette | Corvette VIN Y Service Manual | Document ID: 1731635
#05-08-49-027: Erratic Fuel Gauge Readings, Fuel Gauge Reads Empty When There is Fuel in Tank, DTC P0463 or P2068 Set, Low Fuel Message Displayed in DIC (Reprogram ECM) - (Nov 18, 2005)
Subject: Erratic Fuel Gauge Readings, Fuel Gauge Reads Empty When There Is Fuel In Tank, DTC P0463 or P2068 Set, Low Fuel Message Displayed in DIC (Reprogram ECM)
Models: 2005 Chevrolet Corvette ConditionSome customers may comment that the fuel gauge is erratic or reads empty when there is fuel in the tank. Also, the driver information center may display the “Low Fuel” message.
Upon investigation, the technician may find either DTC P0463 or P2068 set.
CauseThis condition may be due to the fuel level sensor over-traveling its ink path. When this occurs, the fuel level sensor loses electrical contact and sends the fuel gauge to empty. As fuel is drawn out of the tank, the fuel level sensor re-establishes contact and the fuel system operates normally.
CorrectionFirst confirm that DTC P0463 or P2068 have been set and that no other fuel-related codes exist. If other codes are present, follow published DTC diagnostics.
A new software has been developed that adds a buffer to the electronic circuit that waits before it sets a fuel message or drives the gauge to empty. Technicians are to reprogram the ECM with this updated software calibration. This new service calibration was released with TIS satellite data update version 11.5, available November 13, 2005. As always, make sure your Tech 2® is updated with the latest software version.
Warranty InformationFor vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
L1199*
Reprogram ECM to Correct Fuel Gauge Issues w/SPS
0.4 hr
*This is a unique labor operation number for bulletin use only. This number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.
Service Information
2005 Chevrolet Corvette | Corvette VIN Y Service Manual | Document ID: 1731635
#05-08-49-027: Erratic Fuel Gauge Readings, Fuel Gauge Reads Empty When There is Fuel in Tank, DTC P0463 or P2068 Set, Low Fuel Message Displayed in DIC (Reprogram ECM) - (Nov 18, 2005)
Subject: Erratic Fuel Gauge Readings, Fuel Gauge Reads Empty When There Is Fuel In Tank, DTC P0463 or P2068 Set, Low Fuel Message Displayed in DIC (Reprogram ECM)
Models: 2005 Chevrolet Corvette ConditionSome customers may comment that the fuel gauge is erratic or reads empty when there is fuel in the tank. Also, the driver information center may display the “Low Fuel” message.
Upon investigation, the technician may find either DTC P0463 or P2068 set.
CauseThis condition may be due to the fuel level sensor over-traveling its ink path. When this occurs, the fuel level sensor loses electrical contact and sends the fuel gauge to empty. As fuel is drawn out of the tank, the fuel level sensor re-establishes contact and the fuel system operates normally.
CorrectionFirst confirm that DTC P0463 or P2068 have been set and that no other fuel-related codes exist. If other codes are present, follow published DTC diagnostics.
A new software has been developed that adds a buffer to the electronic circuit that waits before it sets a fuel message or drives the gauge to empty. Technicians are to reprogram the ECM with this updated software calibration. This new service calibration was released with TIS satellite data update version 11.5, available November 13, 2005. As always, make sure your Tech 2® is updated with the latest software version.
Warranty InformationFor vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
L1199*
Reprogram ECM to Correct Fuel Gauge Issues w/SPS
0.4 hr
*This is a unique labor operation number for bulletin use only. This number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.
#46
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??? (update)
My tank was at less than 1/4 yesterday and filled it up till it was overflowing The fuel gauge reading was perfectly normal.
Started her up this morning and again the reading is normal. Don't know what happened with the Techron???
Started her up this morning and again the reading is normal. Don't know what happened with the Techron???
#47
I will have to be an advocate for Techron. My C5 gas gauge stops working altogether on occasion and when this happens I add a bottle of Techron and it will work flawlessly. So far no problems with the C6.
#48
I buy it by the case (6 bottles) at Costco. I use it every 60 - 90 days in both our cars. It might be snake oil, but I haven't been bitten by the fuel snake in over 30 years...
#50
#51
#52
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St. Jude Donor '13
I don't believe much in coincidences, but sometimes they do happen.
Let's hope it never happens again. If it does, then the appropriate move would be to add some Techron?
I don't understand all I know about this stuff...
#53
Drifting
Most (including me) agree that if you have a known dirty engine or known malfunctioning fuel gauge, it’s worth trying the additives. Opinions differ on whether it’s smart to add an occasional dose of those additives when the engine and fuel gauge are working properly. The lengthy posts earlier in this thread talk about the pros and cons of use with healthy engines/gauges, and the bottom line is, you can’t really make a compelling case either way. My own philosophy is that I’m not going to use something unless it carries a clear cut benefit. Somebody else’s philosophy might be that they will use something that might help unless it’s clearly demonstrated that it’s really hurting. Since in this case it hasn’t been clearly demonstrated whether it helps or hurts, it’s a tie ball game. Do what seems best to you, and don’t worry about the opposing viewpoint.
#57
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observation
I have noted that when I get onto the onramp to the highway aggressively the fuel level drops slightly and levels off when I resume straight driving on the highway for a minute or two.
I do not know if the car has done this from the outset and is normal? Has anybody noticed theirs?
I do not know if the car has done this from the outset and is normal? Has anybody noticed theirs?
#59
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I have noted that when I get onto the onramp to the highway aggressively the fuel level drops slightly and levels off when I resume straight driving on the highway for a minute or two.
I do not know if the car has done this from the outset and is normal? Has anybody noticed theirs?
I do not know if the car has done this from the outset and is normal? Has anybody noticed theirs?
#60
Race Director
I've also used it before. Suppose to be the one to use too. May do it again soon.