bleeding brakes
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2008
Location: Ma
Posts: 1,082
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bleeding brakes
i need to drive to the shop to bleed brakes, or change whole fluid
my pedal is soft, would it still be ok to drive or i should tow the car?
i did add the fluid but pedal is still soft
also how much they should charge for it?
is bleding is the same as brake fluid flush or not?
my pedal is soft, would it still be ok to drive or i should tow the car?
i did add the fluid but pedal is still soft
also how much they should charge for it?
is bleding is the same as brake fluid flush or not?
#3
Safety Car
Try a hard stop in your neighborhood before trying bigger roads. Depending on just how soft you'll probably be alright.
It may be easier to get a helper to pump the brakes and do it yourself, but I understand you may be weary of doing any more work after what you went through over the spring.
It may be easier to get a helper to pump the brakes and do it yourself, but I understand you may be weary of doing any more work after what you went through over the spring.
#4
Team Owner
Are you kidding ?
But to answer your question, soft pedal is either from a leak or you boiled the fluid. You said you had to add fluid. This could be from brake wear. If you have a leak, you would leave fluid spots-typically under the wheels. Look to see if you have a leak. Can you pump the brakes and make the pedal firmer? If so, that is usually a sign you have air in the system.
But to answer your question, soft pedal is either from a leak or you boiled the fluid. You said you had to add fluid. This could be from brake wear. If you have a leak, you would leave fluid spots-typically under the wheels. Look to see if you have a leak. Can you pump the brakes and make the pedal firmer? If so, that is usually a sign you have air in the system.
#5
Team Owner
Are you kidding ?
But to answer your question, soft pedal is either from a leak or you boiled the fluid. You said you had to add fluid. This could be from brake wear. If you have a leak, you would leave fluid spots-typically under the wheels. Look to see if you have a leak. Can you pump the brakes and make the pedal firmer? If so, that is usually a sign you have air in the system.
But to answer your question, soft pedal is either from a leak or you boiled the fluid. You said you had to add fluid. This could be from brake wear. If you have a leak, you would leave fluid spots-typically under the wheels. Look to see if you have a leak. Can you pump the brakes and make the pedal firmer? If so, that is usually a sign you have air in the system.
if you are going someplace to have it done you might as well get the lines flushed and filled with new fluid it doesn't take a whole lot longer...if the pads are shot just get it all done
#6
I agree with VatorMan. If you have a leak, you would have fluid on the ground or inner rim. Soft brakes sounds like air in the system to me. Make sure you bleed pass rear then driver front, then driver rear and then pass front. Just make sure you keep brake fluid in reservoir while bleeding brakes so not to let air in system.
#7
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2012
Location: Anger Island
Posts: 45,945
Received 3,290 Likes
on
1,400 Posts
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
You can also drive slowly and carefully and use the e-brake to slow and stop. Not optimum, but it can be done if you're careful.
#8
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,094
Received 8,928 Likes
on
5,333 Posts
If the pedal is just soft and you get some braking when you hit it just pump it a few times as you are coming to a stop and you should get sufficient braking to get to the shop without a tow.
Bill
Bill
#9
Melting Slicks
when did the problem start ? you should never add brake fluid, it contaminates it. if it is low, you either have a leak or your pads are worn out. can you get a buddy to pump the pedal ? if not it can be done alone. get some NEW brake fluid @ 1 qt, a clear hose and an extra container (water bottle). start with the RR wheel. fill the extra container 1/2 way (enough to cover the hose) crack the bleeder and attach the hose. pump the pedal until clear fluid starts coming out, the 1st wheel will take the longest. don't allow the master to run dry and don't let the hose come out of the fluid, this is so you don't suck air into the system. when the fluid is clear move to the LR then RF and finally the LF. DO NOT LET AIR INTO THE SYSTEM.
a shop will charge you @ $100
a shop will charge you @ $100
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2008
Location: Ma
Posts: 1,082
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
took the car to the dealer bleeding cost more then brake fluid flush, so i told them to flush the fluid to all new , kida funny
well how it happend, i was working on my suspention and disconected the brake fluid hose, so it is not in the way and so i got air in to the sistem
should be all good tomorrow
thanks all
well how it happend, i was working on my suspention and disconected the brake fluid hose, so it is not in the way and so i got air in to the sistem
should be all good tomorrow
thanks all
#14
Team Owner
took the car to the dealer bleeding cost more then brake fluid flush, so i told them to flush the fluid to all new , kida funny
well how it happend, i was working on my suspention and disconected the brake fluid hose, so it is not in the way and so i got air in to the sistem
should be all good tomorrow
thanks all
well how it happend, i was working on my suspention and disconected the brake fluid hose, so it is not in the way and so i got air in to the sistem
should be all good tomorrow
thanks all
#15
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2005
Location: Big Bend Country, TX
Posts: 29,114
Received 2,186 Likes
on
1,337 Posts
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15- '16-'17-‘18-‘19-'20-'21
NCM Lifetime Member