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Old 05-06-2013, 12:49 AM
  #21  
Jetboy
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Y'all r awesome .. Wish someone had explained clay bar, compound, scratch remover, swirl remover, polish, and wax to me..on a forum.. Took me years and hrs before I got it.lol
Now I'm trying to not even touch this black!.. It's sooo hard to take care of!
Old 05-06-2013, 07:44 AM
  #22  
BWF07
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Another think I forgot to mention, is there are different grades of clay. Some are more aggressive then others. Most of the name brands you buy at the local parts stores are a very mild grade so you will need to work the area a lot more then if you have some of grades. Most of those are used in the professional detail shops.
I also noticed that you are using one brand to polish and another for wax. I have always found that if you stick to all one brand the results are better. Remember each manufacturer has a specific blend of teh different chemicals and when you mix brands sometimes you can end up with less then perfect results. That is why I use nothing but Adams products from start to finish and in between major details.
Old 05-06-2013, 10:00 AM
  #23  
FloydSummerOf68
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Originally Posted by Run N. Gun
Wash. Clay. Polish. Protect (either wax or sealant). Always in this order, and it sounds like you did this correctly.
That's correct, but he didn't actually polish. TW ICE Polish is a synthetic sealant just like NXT 2.0, however NXT 2.0 has some cleaning properties in it which likely removed the layer put down by the ICE. No need to precede NXT 2.0 with TW ICE.
Old 05-06-2013, 10:03 AM
  #24  
FloydSummerOf68
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Originally Posted by 09C6inWA
I clayed my previous car (G35) and had the expected results. So all the suggestions on how to do it (lube, folding, kneading, working in small areas, etc...) are appreciated and were executed as directed. Could it be I wasn't pressing hard enough? In reading the posts; too much pressure could mar the paint.

My car lives in the garage so I assume there's less exposure to the elements.

I was wondering if it was possibly an anomoly with the car's paint but since you all seem to be getting good results; it's me.
You aren't going to mar the paint with mothers claybar...it's too soft.

I literally almost scrub my paint with claybar when I do it. It takes me about 30 minutes for a normal sized vehicle if you're working a good pace.

The best OTC Claybar you can get is claymagic. Much better than the Mothers or Meguiars claybar kits that are sold locally.

I haven't tried the newest turtle wax blue claybar kit though.
Old 05-06-2013, 11:37 AM
  #25  
garye
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wash it, detail spray it, drive it. all that worry and stress over making a plastic bag slide over the hood is crazy. Vettes are meant to be driven.......not polished until it looks like a mirror.
Old 05-06-2013, 11:40 AM
  #26  
LloydP
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Originally Posted by 09C6inWA
I understand I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer but given all I've seen and done with clay bars, I've done it twice and cannot pass the plastic bag test.

I did it a couple weels ago using; Mothers Clay, TW Ice polish which i came to find out is more like wax, and finished it off with NXT. I went a couple weeks without washing it and when I did, I noticed a lack of water beading which I found odd. I also noticed a roughness to the paint surface. So I did the plastic bag test and it felt like I didn't do anything.

I decided to start from scratch and wash the car with Dawn to strip the old wax, bought some Meguiars clay, polish with Meguiars Ultimate polish and wax with NXT. It looks good and to my hand's touch, it's pretty smooth but I used a plastic bag; a little less rough than before but far from the desired effect.

What am I missing? Clay barring seems to be a simple process but I'm disappointed because I invested a crap lot of time wIth seemingly little difference.
I have felt the same. When the car was new, I was able to get all of the lumps off. It convinced me that claying was worthwhile. Now that the car is a couple of year old, I have spent hours on just the hood, to no avail.

This week end, I tried using a reduced amount of just plain water. I kept the water down to where i had a pretty good drag on the clay. The results were better but not as good as when the car was new. I finally finished it like that and said good enough.

The answer may be that if the clay is sliding easily over the surface, it is also sliding over the lumps and not taking them off.

My experience, Thanks Lloyd.
Old 05-06-2013, 01:31 PM
  #27  
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When I bought my 2000 Ram Air T/A in Houston, the finish was terrible due to fall out/polution. I used Mothers Clay and the finish was outstanding afterwards. I then just used Meguires Gold Class and kept it that way. If the finish is smooth, I see no need to clay. I do polish a new car every few years--but only the horizontal surfaces, still generally just use Mequires--now Gold Class with carnuba. The finish stays fantastic. Polish does max the shine after you wax, but is harder on the paint. The difference isn't worth it, imo, unless a black car. Then it is noticeble in that it does remove some, definitely not all, light scratches that stand out like a sore thumb on black.
Old 05-06-2013, 01:36 PM
  #28  
FloydSummerOf68
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Originally Posted by garye
wash it, detail spray it, drive it. all that worry and stress over making a plastic bag slide over the hood is crazy. Vettes are meant to be driven.......not polished until it looks like a mirror.
OOORRRR you could clean it and then drive it

Once the car is clean it's easy to maintain. I also don't understand why people think it's such a time kill to do it....it takes me under 2 hours to wash, clay and wax my car, and claybar really only needs to be done at most once a year if it's garage kept.
Old 05-06-2013, 01:42 PM
  #29  
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I've been using Griots Garage's clay and its really good stuff! and their speed shine u use with it ROCKS !! pricey, but vettes are worth it .
Old 05-06-2013, 01:56 PM
  #30  
EVRose
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Originally Posted by garye
wash it, detail spray it, drive it. all that worry and stress over making a plastic bag slide over the hood is crazy. Vettes are meant to be driven.......not polished until it looks like a mirror.
I agree about the plastic bag thing but what's wrong with polishing to a mirror shine when it's not being driven? The difference is would you rather be driving around with a car that has a good shine or one that has an OUTSTANDING!! shine. I prefer outstanding.
Old 05-06-2013, 02:12 PM
  #31  
BWF07
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Originally Posted by garye
wash it, detail spray it, drive it. all that worry and stress over making a plastic bag slide over the hood is crazy. Vettes are meant to be driven.......not polished until it looks like a mirror.
To each his/her own, but as already mentioned to original detail is what takes the time, but once you have it done, it is easy to maintain. I for one want my cars to look good at all times, so the idea of spending a few hours a week and maybe on full day a year is not a major issue with me.
Old 05-06-2013, 03:09 PM
  #32  
Blizzerk
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I detailed with zaino my garaged 12 Cyber Gray GS this weekend. Including claying it first. I thought I did a good job until I just did the baggy test. Dang.
Old 05-06-2013, 03:17 PM
  #33  
EVRose
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Originally Posted by Blizzerk
I detailed with zaino my garaged 12 Cyber Gray GS this weekend. Including claying it first. I thought I did a good job until I just did the baggy test. Dang.
So does that mean you're gonna do it all over now? Just curious.
Old 05-06-2013, 03:17 PM
  #34  
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What is this "baggie test" and how does one do it? What info is one looking for when doing it?
Old 05-06-2013, 03:24 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by EVRose
So does that mean you're gonna do it all over now? Just curious.
That was too much work to strip and start over right away. I'll redo it in a month or so. Good grief.
Old 05-06-2013, 03:31 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by cclive
What is this "baggie test" and how does one do it? What info is one looking for when doing it?
a thin plastic baggie stretched over one of your fingers, and not for a prostate exam, will allow you to feel the imperfections or contamination in your clear coat, letting you know if you need to clay or not. The plastic almost amplifies what you would be able to feel with just using your finger alone.
Old 05-06-2013, 03:36 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by garye
not polished until it looks like a mirror.
I disagree.........


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Old 05-06-2013, 04:06 PM
  #38  
BWF07
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Originally Posted by Maligator
a thin plastic baggie stretched over one of your fingers, and not for a prostate exam, will allow you to feel the imperfections or contamination in your clear coat, letting you know if you need to clay or not. The plastic almost amplifies what you would be able to feel with just using your finger alone.
I agree, except I use a sandwich baggie and put my hand in it and run my fingers over it, not just one finger, although I don't see why using just one finger would not work as well.
Old 05-06-2013, 04:42 PM
  #39  
3 Z06ZR1
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Originally Posted by 09C6inWA
I understand I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer but given all I've seen and done with clay bars, I've done it twice and cannot pass the plastic bag test.

I did it a couple weels ago using; Mothers Clay, TW Ice polish which i came to find out is more like wax, and finished it off with NXT. I went a couple weeks without washing it and when I did, I noticed a lack of water beading which I found odd. I also noticed a roughness to the paint surface. So I did the plastic bag test and it felt like I didn't do anything.

I decided to start from scratch and wash the car with Dawn to strip the old wax, bought some Meguiars clay, polish with Meguiars Ultimate polish and wax with NXT. It looks good and to my hand's touch, it's pretty smooth but I used a plastic bag; a little less rough than before but far from the desired effect.

What am I missing? Clay barring seems to be a simple process but I'm disappointed because I invested a crap lot of time wIth seemingly little difference.
I'd forget the clay bar and get a 7 inch electric buffer from Harbor
frieight. Then some foam pads. You can spend more money but NO need to.
Then get 3M rubbing and 3M polish from an AUTO BODY SUPPLY.
about 45.00 per quart. You will get an unsurpassed finish.
Then apply Liquid Glass available at Autozone.
Show car finish and real protection.
Then just add another coat after each wash.
20 coats of any wax equals 1 good coat.
But the Liquid Glass builds a thickness each coat. Even makes it harder to chip.
I sold a Z06 and the buyer went to 2 car shows and took 2 trophy's home and did nothing but washing it!

Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; 05-06-2013 at 04:54 PM.
Old 05-06-2013, 05:59 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by BWF07
I have always had great results with clay. I always do a small section at a time and check the area with the baggy test each time.
Okay, I've been detailing my cars for years and have never heard of the "baggie test". Can someone enlighten me?

Thanks...


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