Help! Thermostat replacement... I really screwed the pooch
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Help! Thermostat replacement... I really screwed the pooch
OK so I replaced my thermostat using the "quick swap" method where you don't drain the coolant. Well for me it wasn't "quick" and there was a LOT of coolant draining involved.
I dropped the wrench down below the engine while trying to tighten it, and then a gust of wind blew the other bolt off the fuse box cover and it fell somewhere into the engine. Having no way to tighten the 1 bolt, I had to just let the the thermostat loose.
Long story short, I lost ALL the coolant out of my engine while fumbling around like an idiot. So now I have the new thermostat on there but I'll need to refill the coolant completely.
Since there's not a drop of coolant left in the engine, how do I do this without the engine roasting itself in a matter of minutes? I'm not sure how thermostats work exactly, but if there's no hot coolant up against the engine side of it, how's it going to know when to open?
Basically, is there any special way I need to refill this or should I just stop worrying and warm it up, keep the reservoir open and keep dumping coolant in til it stops taking it?
I dropped the wrench down below the engine while trying to tighten it, and then a gust of wind blew the other bolt off the fuse box cover and it fell somewhere into the engine. Having no way to tighten the 1 bolt, I had to just let the the thermostat loose.
Long story short, I lost ALL the coolant out of my engine while fumbling around like an idiot. So now I have the new thermostat on there but I'll need to refill the coolant completely.
Since there's not a drop of coolant left in the engine, how do I do this without the engine roasting itself in a matter of minutes? I'm not sure how thermostats work exactly, but if there's no hot coolant up against the engine side of it, how's it going to know when to open?
Basically, is there any special way I need to refill this or should I just stop worrying and warm it up, keep the reservoir open and keep dumping coolant in til it stops taking it?
Last edited by CheeseHeadNinja; 04-12-2013 at 09:51 PM.
#2
Pro
Doesn't the new thermostat have a little hole in it for air bubbles to escape through? Would that not let enough leak into the block area, and then it would get hot? Or if you had only air in the block, wouldn't that get super hot and open it?
I did my C5Z, the way you suggest, and it worked. I did a full drain of my C5 coupe and it was a disaster. Car overheated like crazy at first, because it needed much more fluid then I estimated. Then the stupid 178 degree stat never really worked at that temperature. The 160 stat worked great in the Z once I got a Dewitts radiator in there.
The check engine light comes on because the car won't get up over 158 on a cool day. Fine by me.
I have a 160 for my new Z, but still watching and waiting whether to use it.
I did my C5Z, the way you suggest, and it worked. I did a full drain of my C5 coupe and it was a disaster. Car overheated like crazy at first, because it needed much more fluid then I estimated. Then the stupid 178 degree stat never really worked at that temperature. The 160 stat worked great in the Z once I got a Dewitts radiator in there.
The check engine light comes on because the car won't get up over 158 on a cool day. Fine by me.
I have a 160 for my new Z, but still watching and waiting whether to use it.
#3
Le Mans Master
From the shop manual:
- Slowly fill the surge tank until the level reaches the base of the surge tank neck.
- Start the engine and let it idle for 4 minutes.
- Slowly fill until the level stabalizes at the base of the surge tank.
- Run the engine between 2000-2500 RPM for 2 minutes.
- Allow the engine to idle and add approximately 1 liter (1.1 quarts) to the surge tank.
- Install the pressure cap.
- Shut the engine off and allow to cool.
- Top off as needed.
#4
Race Director
From the shop manual:
- Slowly fill the surge tank until the level reaches the base of the surge tank neck.
- Start the engine and let it idle for 4 minutes.
- Slowly fill until the level stabalizes at the base of the surge tank.
- Run the engine between 2000-2500 RPM for 2 minutes.
- Allow the engine to idle and add approximately 1 liter (1.1 quarts) to the surge tank.
- Install the pressure cap.
- Shut the engine off and allow to cool.
- Top off as needed.
You didn't "lose all the coolant". Lots of it left. Follow the directions above and you'll be fine.
#5
Drifting
#6
Melting Slicks
that Murphy guy
Don't panic. After you make sure everything is tight fill the reservoir with coolant and start the engine. I use a 2 liter Coke bottle, cut the bottom of it and wash it. Put the neck into the tank, turn the heater on full blast and fill the Coke bottle 1/2 way. You will see the bubbles appear and the level drop when the t-stat opens up. should take about 15 minutes. Put the cap back on, wash everything down and go for a ride. You may have to top the bottle off when it cools down.
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Update! I actually stumbled on a thread where a guy used a different method that meant you didn't have to burp it.
1. Unhook the top rubber hose from the coolant reservoir at the end where it connects into a "T" joint with two other hoses.
2. Fill up the coolant reservoir. Put cap back on tight.
3. Blow into the hose slowly and you'll hear all the coolant being forced back thru the bottom hose and filling back into the engine block, directly behind the thermostat.
4. When reservoir is empty, refill and repeat. Do this until coolant starts to come out of the "T" joint where you unhooked the hose that you're blowing on.
5. When its full simply hook back up the hose to the "T" joint and top off the reservoir.
Took about 1.5 gallons of 50/50 mix to refill it.
I started it up and it stayed cool (192F) and never needed to be topped back off. There was no air in it at all. Super easy method and I hope this may help some of you guys who have to refill the coolant some day. The hardest part was getting the hose clamp loose because it really gets stuck to the hose after a few years!
1. Unhook the top rubber hose from the coolant reservoir at the end where it connects into a "T" joint with two other hoses.
2. Fill up the coolant reservoir. Put cap back on tight.
3. Blow into the hose slowly and you'll hear all the coolant being forced back thru the bottom hose and filling back into the engine block, directly behind the thermostat.
4. When reservoir is empty, refill and repeat. Do this until coolant starts to come out of the "T" joint where you unhooked the hose that you're blowing on.
5. When its full simply hook back up the hose to the "T" joint and top off the reservoir.
Took about 1.5 gallons of 50/50 mix to refill it.
I started it up and it stayed cool (192F) and never needed to be topped back off. There was no air in it at all. Super easy method and I hope this may help some of you guys who have to refill the coolant some day. The hardest part was getting the hose clamp loose because it really gets stuck to the hose after a few years!
Last edited by CheeseHeadNinja; 04-13-2013 at 06:50 PM.