AV8TOR536

Can I suck out brake fluid out of the holding tank and add new
fluid like the clutch?(ranger method)

AtomicZ_Eric

Although I'm not a materials / fluids engineer, I think it would be fair to assume that constant dilution would be better than old / dirty fluid. Likewise, it could never be expected to perform at the level of a fresh change.

If you track the car then more frequent changes would likely be the best route. However, for only street use maybe frequent dilution would likely be adequate. Maybe someone well versed in this science could back up or refute my opinion?

Gearhead Jim

Certainly you'll be replacing some of the fluid, but I'm thinking you will also be allowing fresh (humid?) air into the reservoir each time, and some of that humidity will be absorbed into the fluid. So I'm not sure how much you would gain.

In order to completely replace the fluid, you need a tech2 or similar device to cycle the ABS system to get all the fluid out of there.

michaelinmech

Does that not result in the new fresh fluid simply being only in the reservoir - and the old fluid being in all the lines through to the the calipers?

I'm not sure how that would change or improve anything?

Gary '09 C6

really need to properly bleed/flush/replace all the brake fluid...and use DOT 4. It is a two-person job...

HOXXOH

except that it can be done by one person using the gravity method. It just takes a lot longer. I bleed/flush/replace about every 2 years.

CyberBullet

I have a a vaccuum pump that I use. Works well and is fairly quick.

MikeERWNC

A MityVac can absolutely do it with one person.

I emptied the reservoir first and filled with fresh fluid.
Then started the bleed at the right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
I did it three times in two weeks to get the Fluid back to golden from black.
It has been 10K miles and the fluid id still the proper color.

cclive

The reason that we do the Ranger method on the clutch is that we cannot easily get to the bleeder at the slave cylinder to truly bleed the system. If we could do it that way, even Ranger would admit that it is a better way to do it. The bleeders at the brake calipers are very easy to get to, so pulling or pushing all the fluid through the system using these bleeders is the proper way to do it.

Wayne O

For all practical purposes you can change the brake fluid yourself. I suggest you get some help at first from someone who knows what they're doing or at least get the shop manual or some good instructions to follow. It's important to bleed the brakes in the proper order and having a friend there to help is invaluable. Without someone there to help bleed the brakes I suggest you invest in a Motive Power Bleeder. I often use the Motive Power Bleeder simply to pressurize the system. It's worth noting to completely flush out the old fluid a Tech 2 tool is needed to 'exercise' the ABS circuits in the process. If you really want to fully purge the system you might want to have the dealership do it the first time.

IMO there are many decent fluids you can use including the GM Clutch/Brake fluid, Prestone, Red Line and others. I use Motul 600 clutch and brake fluid. Although my car is a dedicated track car I believe the same high performance characteristics (of Motul 600 fluif) that benefit my car on the track will benefit a street-driven car as well. I recommend Motul 600. Good luck!

EyeMaster

You can change the reservoir fluid. It's better than doing nothing. Everytime you press the brakes, it takes a bit from the reservoir and mixes inline. Since you're under the hood anyways doing the clutch fluid every 2-3 weeks, why not do the brake reservoir? (only if the color has changed, if it's full clear don't bother)

LEAVINU

Spend $75 on a Motive Power Bleeder; awesome tool to have! Just did all four corners with two bleed screws per wheel (Wilwood setup) in 15mins the other night. This makes it a one person job and you get it done without error.

Seadawg

mikeCsix

Way no hit all the high points. I would only add the idea of speed bleeders. These are bleed screws with a built in check valve so air can't get back into the system when bleeding and also makes this a one person job. The point to take away from this is brake fluid does not circulate through the system. To freshen it you have to flush it through.

Gary '09 C6

hey guys, thanks for the well-intended tips above (really)...

but it's a two person job for me 'cause I'm just inept at actually doing these things !

96GS#007

Wouldn't happen to have the supplier & the Motive p/n handy for where you picked your Motive Power Bleeder up from would you? I use a MityVac right now and it takes me about 45 minutes. Never got around to buying a Motive but getting impatient....so time to go get one.

LEAVINU

Not sure if this link will take you to the search results but give it a try:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...ower%20bleeder

I'm an Amazon fan.

cclive

Me too, even for auto parts.

Cratchet

I'd like to know more about the flushing process. I've never had ABS on my cars or motorcycles before. I figured the ABS circuits had to be bled a little differently.
I'll search around for more info.

Mike

LEAVINU

Tech 2 can be found at the dealers and sometimes performance shops, but unless changing from stock fluid to something like RBF600 or Castrol SRF bleeding the system without the ABS should be fine. I had my complete system bled when I made the switch to RBF but now just bleed in my garage w/o activating the ABS. However, one could go out and activate the ABS a few times on the street then bleed right after. That will force the movement of the fluid from the ABS circuit into main stream so "some" is bled out.