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Gezz, you guys are great. Mine is a 2008 with the rollers. It's been raining today so I'm about ready to go run around and see if it still leaks. I think I will turn the J-hook in one more turn, that should make it have more effort when closing. Might adjust the post receiver on that side too, it's a little higher then the other side. Thanks again for the advice. I'm thinking the e-clips and O-rings too for good measure, I'm thinking tighter the better.
Me again, I'm a little stressed out today. Car sat at work all day and it rained pretty hard off and on all day. It still friggen leaks, I don't get it. The only thing I haven't been able to do yet is condition the weatherstripping seal. I did turn the J hook in one more turn, I'm guessing there is a limit to how hard it pulls. I noticed it seems to pull horizontally instead of vertically down which seems weird to me. I adjusted the locating post on the back side down a little too. It may have slowed it a little and it seems to only leak when it's sitting. Once I start driving it will drip for a bit then it stops. Very annoying and irritating. The top makes zero noise never really has but a tighter fit would be good at least I thought. I don't know what the hell I didn't do. Maybe conditioning the rubbers will help. I did notice the e-clips stopped all movement of the rollers, hope that's not a bad thing and with the greased up O-rings in place it fits very snug and actually made it a little quieter inside from road noise. But this leak thing has me jacked up. Damn
Well i did it all and it still leaks. Not real bad unless it sits in a down pour. The ONLY thing wrong with this car is this damn leak. Might be time for a new seal on the back side. After the holidays bs is over, I will stop by the local Chevy dealers body-shop to ask questions. They are all great people, very helpful. In the meantime, a folded towel will have to do. And by the way, thank you for those who tried to help.
Late to the party/thread... Have tried o rings a few times but they don't work for more than a day on my '09. Today I wrapped the pins on the front with strips of Gorilla tape and so far so good. More promising, I think.
My 2 cents--
Last edited by richietables; 06-01-2019 at 12:51 PM.
Late to the party/thread... Have tried o rings a few times but they don't work for more than a day on my '09. Today I wrapped the pins on the front with strips of Gorilla tape and so far so good. More promising, I think.
My 2 cents--
What might also work is heat shrink tubing. You can buy heat shrink with adhesive inside of it, more for salt water environments. Ancor I believe is the vendor. West Marine products may have it in an online catalog. HTH
KLW97 - " I did turn the J hook in one more turn, I'm guessing there is a limit to how hard it pulls. I noticed it seems to pull horizontally instead of vertically down which seems weird to me."
Think of it as two beveled edges being pulled together by the J-hook. You might have to replace some rubber to get it to seal properly, or try some silicone grease, a light coating may do the trick but it would also indicate some rubber may be too brittle or dried out to get a good seal. Living in Salem, you are going to get some rain and its pointless to wait for dry weather! I lived in Portland for 10 years, moved to Seattle (wetter yet) for nearly 30 years and retiring to Arizona for the winters.
So none of the methods worked for me: o-rings, lubing weather strips and seals, tightening the pins, cursing, etc. There was still a very noticeable and annoying click, creak, pop which seemed to come from everywhere, but all passengers said it was coming from the right latch area. Yesterday on the way back from the local weekly Saturday night vintage car show I was in the passenger seat for a change, and it was quite evident that the noise was coming from the latch. I swung the visor, down and grabbed onto the latch, and it seemed to vibrate in time with the creaks and pops.
Then I remember someone posting how they fixed the creaking and popping noise by removing the machine screws that secure the latches to the top (40 torx bit), cleaning up the striker plate and all other wear surfaces, and greasing up the complete mechanism, including the striker plate. This includes where the latch turns against a washer that has two locating pins sitting against the top. All of this becomes obvious when you remove the screw and the latch. There is a very thin washer on the machine screw - don't lose it.
I didn't need to remove the top, either. Just release the latch, remove the screw, and everything comes down nicely. I cleaned up all the latch wear surfaces, the striker plate, and lubed it all up with Super Lube, put one wind of teflon tape on the screw threads, and tightened it back up. Not sure how much torque it needs, but I did my best guess by feel. Then I latched it all back up. All of this took about 30 minutes.
Then, I took it out for a test drive going over road surfaces which previously caused the creaking and popping, and.................
Nothing. No creaking, popping, clicking. I almost can't believe it, because nothing else fixed it. Now, I still have the extra o-rings in place front and back, so maybe they are also part of the cure. I've got a road trip planned second week of August, so we shall see how long this lasts, but for now, blessed silence.
BTW, in the pic below of the screws, it shows spring washers. Mine were completely flat, so I don't know whether they start off like this and get flattened, or maybe I'm supposed to have them. Don't care at this point. You can also see the washers with the locating pins.
I'd like to thank whoever posted the lube fix idea, but I can't seem to find the post now.
The only thing I do is lubricate the rubber on top with Zymol plant extract to keep seals pliable which that little bottle cost over $20.00 many years ago.
So none of the methods worked for me: o-rings, lubing weather strips and seals, tightening the pins, cursing, etc. There was still a very noticeable and annoying click, creak, pop which seemed to come from everywhere, but all passengers said it was coming from the right latch area. Yesterday on the way back from the local weekly Saturday night vintage car show I was in the passenger seat for a change, and it was quite evident that the noise was coming from the latch. I swung the visor, down and grabbed onto the latch, and it seemed to vibrate in time with the creaks and pops.
Then I remember someone posting how they fixed the creaking and popping noise by removing the machine screws that secure the latches to the top (40 torx bit), cleaning up the striker plate and all other wear surfaces, and greasing up the complete mechanism, including the striker plate. This includes where the latch turns against a washer that has two locating pins sitting against the top. All of this becomes obvious when you remove the screw and the latch. There is a very thin washer on the machine screw - don't lose it.
I didn't need to remove the top, either. Just release the latch, remove the screw, and everything comes down nicely. I cleaned up all the latch wear surfaces, the striker plate, and lubed it all up with Super Lube, put one wind of teflon tape on the screw threads, and tightened it back up. Not sure how much torque it needs, but I did my best guess by feel. Then I latched it all back up. All of this took about 30 minutes.
Then, I took it out for a test drive going over road surfaces which previously caused the creaking and popping, and.................
Nothing. No creaking, popping, clicking. I almost can't believe it, because nothing else fixed it. Now, I still have the extra o-rings in place front and back, so maybe they are also part of the cure. I've got a road trip planned second week of August, so we shall see how long this lasts, but for now, blessed silence.
BTW, in the pic below of the screws, it shows spring washers. Mine were completely flat, so I don't know whether they start off like this and get flattened, or maybe I'm supposed to have them. Don't care at this point. You can also see the washers with the locating pins.
I'd like to thank whoever posted the lube fix idea, but I can't seem to find the post now.
Nice. Thanks for the tips. Mine has been quiet for a while now, but this is good info should it act up again. Let us know if it's still quiet after a few days. When mine was making noise just opening and closing the latches kept it quiet for day, but then the noise would come back.
Ya tried them all, but mine was a water leak. Think I figured it out but since I started messing around with the top, I now have noise issues. Shrink tubed the front pins, O-rings seemed to thick so looking at that and I too started thinking it was a rubbing issue. Greased everything and the seals are still nice and soft so I think it may be in the contact areas and or the latches. Does anyone have any input on how a drop top C6 does in the rain?? Is it a problem that just gets worse or good maintenance will keep leaks to a minimum?? Thanks
Mine was totally quiet when I got it in January; however, after 7 months of driving to work which includes a good bit of miles through the base, with the concrete slabs with a bump every 10 feet or so it has begun creaking when It hits a bump or the like.
Guess I will try the o-rings. I had lubed up the main edges and contacts awhile back, but still didn't seem to help. Maybe i need to take the front handles off and clean and lube like mentioned. Will try the o-rings first. Quickest fix if it works.
For the back, how is that j-hook tightened? Is there a locking screw in there? I tried to tighten it up, as there is thread showing, but it didn't want to budge and I didn't want to force it and possibly break it. I just did a quick scan of it, but didn't look too close yet.
Mine was totally quiet when I got it in January; however, after 7 months of driving to work which includes a good bit of miles through the base, with the concrete slabs with a bump every 10 feet or so it has begun creaking when It hits a bump or the like.
Guess I will try the o-rings. I had lubed up the main edges and contacts awhile back, but still didn't seem to help. Maybe i need to take the front handles off and clean and lube like mentioned. Will try the o-rings first. Quickest fix if it works.
For the back, how is that j-hook tightened? Is there a locking screw in there? I tried to tighten it up, as there is thread showing, but it didn't want to budge and I didn't want to force it and possibly break it. I just did a quick scan of it, but didn't look too close yet.
There's a small allan key set screw you have to loosen to tighten the hook. Don't take it all the way out and lose it.
both my Grand Sports creaked a bit... I wrapped the Posts with 1 1/2 layers of Black electrical tape -- and lubed the rollers... both tops now have no squeak or creaks or noise.
So none of the methods worked for me: o-rings, lubing weather strips and seals, tightening the pins, cursing, etc. There was still a very noticeable and annoying click, creak, pop which seemed to come from everywhere, but all passengers said it was coming from the right latch area. Yesterday on the way back from the local weekly Saturday night vintage car show I was in the passenger seat for a change, and it was quite evident that the noise was coming from the latch. I swung the visor, down and grabbed onto the latch, and it seemed to vibrate in time with the creaks and pops.
Then I remember someone posting how they fixed the creaking and popping noise by removing the machine screws that secure the latches to the top (40 torx bit), cleaning up the striker plate and all other wear surfaces, and greasing up the complete mechanism, including the striker plate. This includes where the latch turns against a washer that has two locating pins sitting against the top. All of this becomes obvious when you remove the screw and the latch. There is a very thin washer on the machine screw - don't lose it.
I didn't need to remove the top, either. Just release the latch, remove the screw, and everything comes down nicely. I cleaned up all the latch wear surfaces, the striker plate, and lubed it all up with Super Lube, put one wind of teflon tape on the screw threads, and tightened it back up. Not sure how much torque it needs, but I did my best guess by feel. Then I latched it all back up. All of this took about 30 minutes.
Then, I took it out for a test drive going over road surfaces which previously caused the creaking and popping, and.................
Nothing. No creaking, popping, clicking. I almost can't believe it, because nothing else fixed it. Now, I still have the extra o-rings in place front and back, so maybe they are also part of the cure. I've got a road trip planned second week of August, so we shall see how long this lasts, but for now, blessed silence.
BTW, in the pic below of the screws, it shows spring washers. Mine were completely flat, so I don't know whether they start off like this and get flattened, or maybe I'm supposed to have them. Don't care at this point. You can also see the washers with the locating pins.
I'd like to thank whoever posted the lube fix idea, but I can't seem to find the post now.
03-05-2015, 06:13 PM
