sxs191

I had the same issue with my GS. The front left was over a 1/2" lower than the front right after I cranked them all the way down. I ended up turning the front left back a few turns to raise it to match. I am happy with the front height but the back is still way to high for my taste. I guess coil overs are the only way to do it unless you want to use aftermarket loweing bolts but I have read to many bad things about them.

4SUMERZ

When I lowered mine, I tried the best I could to keep the measurement equal from side to side, both front and back, but it was really difficult. I got it as close as possible, and after the car was driven for awhile, it settled even lower than my original measurements.
I found that if one side of the back was higher than the other side, it was by slightly raising the opposite front that actually lowered the opposite back.
BTW, after lowering to the max on OEM lowering bolts, I did not require an alignment. I took a 4500 mile trip shortly after I lowered the car, and the tires wore evenly.

JLB768

Yeah, coilovers aren't in the cards, no telling how long I will keep this Vette, this in number four since Dec of 07.

JLB768

I'll still have it aligned for my own pice of mind. But like I said, I have no intention of racing it, or taking it to it's limits, so I'm not concerned with it being perfectly balanced. As long as I get the height measurements close, I'm happy, and I will eventually. I just need to get it out and drive it some, but I spent 11 hours getting the paint corrected from neglect on the car lot, and it's been storming since. So in the garage it sits...

cclive

It's very difficult to measure the car height in the same way as the factory spec is expressed, but using the end of a body panel that is far away from the suspension will exaggerate any error. While not perfect, using the fender height at the wheel center is better. Check there and use that height to adjust.

JLB768

Thanks bud, I'll do that too. Really can't do anything else till I get some more miles on it, just don't want to take it out in the rain after getting it cleaned up. Oh, yeah, I do drive mine in the rain

shawn672

Some people think their car is hand built and every little detail is measured and exact... this car is far from it, sometimes I feel like rednecks in TN built this thing in their garage with the amount of noises the interior makes

JLB768

Yup. Some creak and groan, some don't, some tick, some don't, some have perfect alignments, some don't, the list goes on.

Bedouin

JLB, I think the primary thing is to drive it at least 100+ miles so that the rubber ride height-bolt pads fully settle/shimmy onto the LCA's.

On my '12 GS I screwed each corner in @ 2 full turns & marked them beforehand w/ white touch up paint. I had the alignment checked; Front camber @ -.8*, .0* toe, Rear camber -.5*, *.0 toe, no caster change.

I then screwed all 4 bolts in to their max, cut 1/8" off the rear bushings, & the height/leveling is perfect now, then had the alignment checked; Front -.12* camber, 0* toe, Rear -.9* camber, 0* toe, micro caster change, but I'll get it corner weighted/checked after I install new Michelins & before my next hpde.

FYI, many alignment shops offer free alignment checks too.

JLB768

Yeah, I definitely need to put some miles on it before checking it again. It's sitting close to where I want it, so time will tell. I'll have the alignment checked after I am happy with it, have a few shops around here that do it.

mnmthoele

The simple answer is not all body panels are even and level from the factory. Since you are doing this solely for the appearance, after you allow the car to settle, just adjust the bolts to make everything level. On my C5, if you measure from the frame rails, everything is even, from some body panels, they are not.

JLB768

Yeah, in hindsight, I should have known to measure from the frame, and not the splitter.