Pulled the cover back and warmed her up today.......................
12-31-2012, 11:54 AM
#41
Team Owner
Member Since: Aug 2006
Posts: 23,096
Received 2,899 Likes
on
1,916 Posts
C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Randy, why not just drive it like I do?
12-31-2012, 12:04 PM
#43
Race Director
Thread Starter
Planning on a half day at work and this has got me motivated to fire mine up this afternoon as a way to celebrate the end of the year.
Wondering how long it will take the engine oil to get to 150 degrees with current temps here at -15. Might need to add more fuel to the tank to keep it topped off if it takes a while to get up to temp.
Wondering how long it will take the engine oil to get to 150 degrees with current temps here at -15. Might need to add more fuel to the tank to keep it topped off if it takes a while to get up to temp.
12-31-2012, 12:17 PM
#44
Melting Slicks
Planning on a half day at work and this has got me motivated to fire mine up this afternoon as a way to celebrate the end of the year.
Wondering how long it will take the engine oil to get to 150 degrees with current temps here at -15. Might need to add more fuel to the tank to keep it topped off if it takes a while to get up to temp.
Wondering how long it will take the engine oil to get to 150 degrees with current temps here at -15. Might need to add more fuel to the tank to keep it topped off if it takes a while to get up to temp.
Starting it at -15 will do far more harm than good.
12-31-2012, 12:44 PM
#45
Racer
12-31-2012, 02:00 PM
#47
Race Director
Actually its part of this thread in the C5 section
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...post1582672091
First of all, the oils used today and especially what you put in your
Corvette are outstanding at preventing corrosion and in combating the
effects of storage and intermittent use of the engine.
That said, I believe that running the engine of a stored vehicle at least a
couple times in the storage period is good for the engine. It exercises
everything and gets the oil stirred up and coating the upper valve gear
where it drains back from and thus you don't have to depend on the film
strength of the oil for months on end. One thing about this is that when
you start the engine and run it you have to let the whole system come up to
temperature. That means the oil has to get warm, warmer than you would be
happy to touch. You may have an oil temp gage on the Corvette, if so I'd let
everything get up to 150F or run for 20 minutes, whichever comes first.
What that does is make sure that the water vapor in the engine is driven off
and the exhaust system gets good and hot and nothing detrimental will
happen. If one starts the engine and runs it for only a couple of minutes
the chemistry of what goes on inside the engine and combustion chamber make
a fair amount of water. That water makes acid in the oil which the oil has
to neutralize (which it has additives to do so) and also condenses in the
exhaust system. Modern exhausts are aluminized or stainless so are pretty
impervious to this but the engine innards are somewhat vulnerable.
As far a gaskets and seals go, you always are in a race between the effects
of high temperature and long duration which tends to set elastomeric seals
(like O rings) and flat gaskets which like a little oil. Overall this kind
of temporary running to high enough temps to drive off the water vapor is
incidental to the life of gaskets and seals. One thing to do is to change
the antifreeze every couple or three years and replace it with the factory
recommended solution. I think some Corvettes use special coolants so do
what the owner’s manual says.
None of this has any material effect on any other part of the drive train.
The transmission is just fine what ever you do irrespective of manual or automatic.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...post1582672091
First of all, the oils used today and especially what you put in your
Corvette are outstanding at preventing corrosion and in combating the
effects of storage and intermittent use of the engine.
That said, I believe that running the engine of a stored vehicle at least a
couple times in the storage period is good for the engine. It exercises
everything and gets the oil stirred up and coating the upper valve gear
where it drains back from and thus you don't have to depend on the film
strength of the oil for months on end. One thing about this is that when
you start the engine and run it you have to let the whole system come up to
temperature. That means the oil has to get warm, warmer than you would be
happy to touch. You may have an oil temp gage on the Corvette, if so I'd let
everything get up to 150F or run for 20 minutes, whichever comes first.
What that does is make sure that the water vapor in the engine is driven off
and the exhaust system gets good and hot and nothing detrimental will
happen. If one starts the engine and runs it for only a couple of minutes
the chemistry of what goes on inside the engine and combustion chamber make
a fair amount of water. That water makes acid in the oil which the oil has
to neutralize (which it has additives to do so) and also condenses in the
exhaust system. Modern exhausts are aluminized or stainless so are pretty
impervious to this but the engine innards are somewhat vulnerable.
As far a gaskets and seals go, you always are in a race between the effects
of high temperature and long duration which tends to set elastomeric seals
(like O rings) and flat gaskets which like a little oil. Overall this kind
of temporary running to high enough temps to drive off the water vapor is
incidental to the life of gaskets and seals. One thing to do is to change
the antifreeze every couple or three years and replace it with the factory
recommended solution. I think some Corvettes use special coolants so do
what the owner’s manual says.
None of this has any material effect on any other part of the drive train.
The transmission is just fine what ever you do irrespective of manual or automatic.
I don't have it covered so I get to see it all the time when I go to put the trash out.
12-31-2012, 02:12 PM
#48
Team Owner
Member Since: May 2000
Location: Plantation Florida USAF(Retired) 1966-1990
Posts: 47,971
Received 4,508 Likes
on
3,592 Posts
U.S. Air Force
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Next time you are in Home Depot, why not buy some rubber mats to park the car on there about 1/4 thick, and the tires aren't on wood or concrete.
12-31-2012, 02:19 PM
#49
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
Posts: 23,968
Received 2,061 Likes
on
1,369 Posts
St. Jude Donor '13
More seriously, the paddles will actually allow you to start out in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. It can't be paddled into 4th for start.
I start out in 1 a few times, 2 a few times, and 3 (gently) a few times.
Or paddle 1-2-3 in one gentle run.
EDIT:
1BADLS3 commented about the issues of starting in cold weather vs starting in really cold weather. I agree with him, I adjust my "warm it up" day somewhat to get the warmest day of the week. Our garage is unheated, but is typically 10'F warmer than outside, so it's usually possible to pick a day when the garage is about freezing temp or higher.
Also, a pair of 75W drop lights placed under the oil pan overnight, will increase the oil temp at startup by about 10'F. Not much, but if you live where it's really cold that might help.
Last edited by Gearhead Jim; 12-31-2012 at 02:35 PM.
12-31-2012, 03:02 PM
#50
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2012
Location: Anger Island
Posts: 45,955
Received 3,291 Likes
on
1,400 Posts
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
It was 0* here this morning so we took the Vette out for breakfast since the sun is shining. Of course, it's kept in a heated garage at 68* all winter so no worry about starting in those temps. No way I'm storing mine for several months; I drive it all winter unless there's snow/ice on the roads.
I can attest with confidence that a Vette handles way better on snow than the wife's Shelby GT500.
I can attest with confidence that a Vette handles way better on snow than the wife's Shelby GT500.
12-31-2012, 03:17 PM
#51
Race Director
I don't see how you guys stand it. If I have to travel for a week without my car, it just kills me. If I had to put it up for 4 months, I'd just have to move south.
12-31-2012, 03:31 PM
#52
Melting Slicks
12-31-2012, 05:05 PM
#54
Team Owner
12-31-2012, 05:09 PM
#55
Team Owner
Hey, the LS3 has a lot of power!
More seriously, the paddles will actually allow you to start out in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. It can't be paddled into 4th for start.
I start out in 1 a few times, 2 a few times, and 3 (gently) a few times.
Or paddle 1-2-3 in one gentle run.
EDIT:
1BADLS3 commented about the issues of starting in cold weather vs starting in really cold weather. I agree with him, I adjust my "warm it up" day somewhat to get the warmest day of the week. Our garage is unheated, but is typically 10'F warmer than outside, so it's usually possible to pick a day when the garage is about freezing temp or higher.
Also, a pair of 75W drop lights placed under the oil pan overnight, will increase the oil temp at startup by about 10'F. Not much, but if you live where it's really cold that might help.
More seriously, the paddles will actually allow you to start out in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. It can't be paddled into 4th for start.
I start out in 1 a few times, 2 a few times, and 3 (gently) a few times.
Or paddle 1-2-3 in one gentle run.
EDIT:
1BADLS3 commented about the issues of starting in cold weather vs starting in really cold weather. I agree with him, I adjust my "warm it up" day somewhat to get the warmest day of the week. Our garage is unheated, but is typically 10'F warmer than outside, so it's usually possible to pick a day when the garage is about freezing temp or higher.
Also, a pair of 75W drop lights placed under the oil pan overnight, will increase the oil temp at startup by about 10'F. Not much, but if you live where it's really cold that might help.
Sorry to bust your bubbles, but there are 100,000's of cars that regularly start in very cold weather. This is the 2000's not the 1950's.
12-31-2012, 05:17 PM
#57
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
Posts: 23,968
Received 2,061 Likes
on
1,369 Posts
St. Jude Donor '13
When I drive in cold weather, I start at whatever temperature happens to exist when I go, on the C6 or any other car. But if I'm just doing an occasional start during storage, and have full freedom to chose when to do it, then I pick the warmer day. I don't bother to do the "light bulb under the oil pan" trick, but others might wonder how much it changes the temperature, so i posted it.
12-31-2012, 05:23 PM
#58
Team Owner
I'm not aware of any engine designers who say that starting at a colder temperature/thicker oil is as good as starting warmer. The fact that modern engines survive this treatment does not mean it's the best thing.
When I drive in cold weather, I start at whatever temperature happens to exist when I go, on the C6 or any other car. But if I'm just doing an occasional start during storage, and have full freedom to chose when to do it, then I pick the warmer day. I don't bother to do the "light bulb under the oil pan" trick, but others might wonder how much it changes the temperature, so i posted it.
When I drive in cold weather, I start at whatever temperature happens to exist when I go, on the C6 or any other car. But if I'm just doing an occasional start during storage, and have full freedom to chose when to do it, then I pick the warmer day. I don't bother to do the "light bulb under the oil pan" trick, but others might wonder how much it changes the temperature, so i posted it.
12-31-2012, 05:30 PM
#59
Melting Slicks
More wear happens at one start-up in very cold weather than in hundreds of at-temp miles.
Just because modern engines tolerate it better, does not change the fact that more wear occurs on extreme cold starts.
You can't change physics.
Just because modern engines tolerate it better, does not change the fact that more wear occurs on extreme cold starts.
You can't change physics.
12-31-2012, 06:01 PM
#60
Team Owner
