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Stuttering/Power Loss question

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Old 01-02-2013, 05:49 PM
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andyoi
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Default Stuttering/Power Loss question

New to my GS I just picked up in November, but had a question I hadn't seen an answer to before.

Lately on colder starts, I'll drive the car calmly for a mile or two, then try and open it up a little, and in 1st or 2nd gear, when I exceed 4-5k rpms, it's like the car stutters and I lose most of the power until I let off the gas some. If I go back above that point the same thing happens. It's happened to me a handful of times now. After awhile of driving this goes away and I can pull past 6000 rpm no problem.

Has been colder lately, 25-35 degrees at night, but it sits in the garage. Do I need to give it more warm up time? Thanks
Old 01-02-2013, 06:13 PM
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speedlink
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Doubt you need more warm up. Could be bad gas, dirty injectors, fouled spark plug. Computer may not be operating correctly.

If it continues, a trip to the dealer may be in store.

Try a bottle of Techron in the gas. It will help if that is your problem. That is the easiest and cheapest way to start. It has helped some on here.
Old 01-02-2013, 06:15 PM
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Bill Dearborn
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In cold temps with cold tires you could easily be activating traction control when you get into the upper rpm ranges at wide open throttle. When it happens you should see a Traction Active message on the DIC. One way to find out is to deactivate traction control and see if it happens with TC turned off. Be careful and do this where is lots of room for the car to spin around if you don't know how to handle the loss of rear wheel traction.

Bill
Old 01-02-2013, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn
In cold temps with cold tires you could easily be activating traction control when you get into the upper rpm ranges at wide open throttle. When it happens you should see a Traction Active message on the DIC. One way to find out is to deactivate traction control and see if it happens with TC turned off. Be careful and do this where is lots of room for the car to spin around if you don't know how to handle the loss of rear wheel traction.

Bill
Excellent suggestion.
Old 01-02-2013, 10:10 PM
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Gearhead Jim
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Everyone has a different definition of "open it up a little", but our resident retired oil engineer recommends 180'F on the oil if you can get it, before going full power/rpm.

I want the coolant to be at normal temp (~190'F) before moderately aggressive driving, and wait for the 180' oil before flogging it. Others are allowed to think differently, there are no actual LSx engine test results that I can find.
Old 01-02-2013, 10:40 PM
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andyoi
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Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn
In cold temps with cold tires you could easily be activating traction control when you get into the upper rpm ranges at wide open throttle. When it happens you should see a Traction Active message on the DIC. One way to find out is to deactivate traction control and see if it happens with TC turned off. Be careful and do this where is lots of room for the car to spin around if you don't know how to handle the loss of rear wheel traction.

Bill
I'll try with TC turned off, but I'm pretty confident that's not it. I'm pretty used to hitting the gas hard and seeing that Active Handling message pop up. That happens several times a day as well, but the issue I was talking about is more of an engine power loss, not really a wheel braking feeling. I'll still try in the morning with TC off.
Old 01-02-2013, 10:44 PM
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andyoi
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Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
Everyone has a different definition of "open it up a little", but our resident retired oil engineer recommends 180'F on the oil if you can get it, before going full power/rpm.

I want the coolant to be at normal temp (~190'F) before moderately aggressive driving, and wait for the 180' oil before flogging it. Others are allowed to think differently, there are no actual LSx engine test results that I can find.
I actually haven't watched the temperature when this happens, I'll take a look for that. My "open it up a little" is shifts in the 4-5500 range, I didn't think those were too high.

I do wait a bit longer before doing any 6500 rpm shifts.
Old 01-02-2013, 11:13 PM
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well, 4500+ is in the upper range even if it's not redline. you turn offf tc,ah, etc. and you'd better be ready, real ready. you're riding on summer tires, w. 25 degree weather on roads that can have just a hint of moisture (think: condensation in fuel tank). you goose it and have lots of real estate around you. please.

as above, might also check on loose plug wire, gas pedal sensor, etc. but I'd like the idea of speedl. re Techron as first stab before going to the dealer. matter of fact, could even be excess water in the fuel tank....bottle of iso-dry gas might be a thought, too. try easy to hard stuff in that order.
Old 01-03-2013, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by AORoads
well, 4500+ is in the upper range even if it's not redline. you turn offf tc,ah, etc. and you'd better be ready, real ready. you're riding on summer tires, w. 25 degree weather on roads that can have just a hint of moisture (think: condensation in fuel tank). you goose it and have lots of real estate around you. please.

as above, might also check on loose plug wire, gas pedal sensor, etc. but I'd like the idea of speedl. re Techron as first stab before going to the dealer. matter of fact, could even be excess water in the fuel tank....bottle of iso-dry gas might be a thought, too. try easy to hard stuff in that order.
I'll give Techron a try to start before going in to the dealer about it.

Don't think I've turned off TC when it's quite that cold yet, when it was warmer I still had a bunch of grip with the tires with TC off I guess. I do know that at 6000+ even with it on gets you pretty far sideways while cold.
Old 01-03-2013, 12:03 PM
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Default Warm up

I don't believe that the engine near warm enough in a mile or 2 to be standing on the gas. Especially in cold weather. Come on !!
Old 01-03-2013, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by andyoi
I'll give Techron a try to start before going in to the dealer about it.

Don't think I've turned off TC when it's quite that cold yet, when it was warmer I still had a bunch of grip with the tires with TC off I guess. I do know that at 6000+ even with it on gets you pretty far sideways while cold.
Old 01-03-2013, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by andyoi
...I'll try with TC turned off, but I'm pretty confident that's not it... the issue I was talking about is more of an engine power loss, not really a wheel braking feeling. I'll still try in the morning with TC off.
I don't think you fully understand the TC system.

Yes, it can apply brakes to a wheel. But it can also dramatically reduce engine power by closing the throttle & managing engine spark.

And it can do this proactively if it senses the rear wheels are beginning to lose traction... just like I'd expect with cold GS summer tires on a cold winter morning.

More details on pg 4-6: http://www.gmpartshouse.com/download...09corvette.pdf
Old 01-03-2013, 03:46 PM
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I am guessing it needs a new set of points and a condenser. Or maybe rotor and cap.
In all seriousness, I have experienced the same thing as the OP. It was the TC shutting the engine down when the yaw sensor was detecting the rear end coming around. It was super quick and the engine fired right back up when she stabilized. Keep us posted on what you find.
Old 01-03-2013, 07:24 PM
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Interesting, I didn't know TC limited engine power too. I'm used to seeing the Active Handling message appear regularly, but don't think I've ever seen a traction message.

I did notice now watching the temperatures, that by that point in my drive (first major road I pull onto) the engine is only in the 110-120 degree range, so maybe I should be giving it more time. It's barely reaching 180 by the time I get to work though.
Old 01-03-2013, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by andyoi
...I did notice now watching the temperatures, that by that point in my drive (first major road I pull onto) the engine is only in the 110-120 degree range, so maybe I should be giving it more time. It's barely reaching 180 by the time I get to work though.
Yup, give the engine more time to warm-up in the winter.

But that's not the only concern... For best traction, the tires also need to warm-up.
Old 01-03-2013, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by andyoi
Interesting, I didn't know TC limited engine power too. I'm used to seeing the Active Handling message appear regularly, but don't think I've ever seen a traction message.

I did notice now watching the temperatures, that by that point in my drive (first major road I pull onto) the engine is only in the 110-120 degree range, so maybe I should be giving it more time. It's barely reaching 180 by the time I get to work though.
Coolant temp, or oil temp?

Looking through the grill, do you have a black "radiator", about 1/4 size, in front of the A/C condensor (which itself is in front of the real radiator)?

If so, you have the external oil cooler. You might be able to make some kind of removable cover, to help your oil run warmer. But with no oil cooler at all, it still takes about 25 miles for my oil to get to 180'F on a cool-but-not-cold Fall day. It's a PITA, but abusing the engine isn't a great idea either.

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