Stuttering/Power Loss question
#1
Stuttering/Power Loss question
New to my GS I just picked up in November, but had a question I hadn't seen an answer to before.
Lately on colder starts, I'll drive the car calmly for a mile or two, then try and open it up a little, and in 1st or 2nd gear, when I exceed 4-5k rpms, it's like the car stutters and I lose most of the power until I let off the gas some. If I go back above that point the same thing happens. It's happened to me a handful of times now. After awhile of driving this goes away and I can pull past 6000 rpm no problem.
Has been colder lately, 25-35 degrees at night, but it sits in the garage. Do I need to give it more warm up time? Thanks
Lately on colder starts, I'll drive the car calmly for a mile or two, then try and open it up a little, and in 1st or 2nd gear, when I exceed 4-5k rpms, it's like the car stutters and I lose most of the power until I let off the gas some. If I go back above that point the same thing happens. It's happened to me a handful of times now. After awhile of driving this goes away and I can pull past 6000 rpm no problem.
Has been colder lately, 25-35 degrees at night, but it sits in the garage. Do I need to give it more warm up time? Thanks
#2
Safety Car
Doubt you need more warm up. Could be bad gas, dirty injectors, fouled spark plug. Computer may not be operating correctly.
If it continues, a trip to the dealer may be in store.
Try a bottle of Techron in the gas. It will help if that is your problem. That is the easiest and cheapest way to start. It has helped some on here.
If it continues, a trip to the dealer may be in store.
Try a bottle of Techron in the gas. It will help if that is your problem. That is the easiest and cheapest way to start. It has helped some on here.
#3
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In cold temps with cold tires you could easily be activating traction control when you get into the upper rpm ranges at wide open throttle. When it happens you should see a Traction Active message on the DIC. One way to find out is to deactivate traction control and see if it happens with TC turned off. Be careful and do this where is lots of room for the car to spin around if you don't know how to handle the loss of rear wheel traction.
Bill
Bill
#4
Safety Car
In cold temps with cold tires you could easily be activating traction control when you get into the upper rpm ranges at wide open throttle. When it happens you should see a Traction Active message on the DIC. One way to find out is to deactivate traction control and see if it happens with TC turned off. Be careful and do this where is lots of room for the car to spin around if you don't know how to handle the loss of rear wheel traction.
Bill
Bill
#5
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St. Jude Donor '13
Everyone has a different definition of "open it up a little", but our resident retired oil engineer recommends 180'F on the oil if you can get it, before going full power/rpm.
I want the coolant to be at normal temp (~190'F) before moderately aggressive driving, and wait for the 180' oil before flogging it. Others are allowed to think differently, there are no actual LSx engine test results that I can find.
I want the coolant to be at normal temp (~190'F) before moderately aggressive driving, and wait for the 180' oil before flogging it. Others are allowed to think differently, there are no actual LSx engine test results that I can find.
#6
In cold temps with cold tires you could easily be activating traction control when you get into the upper rpm ranges at wide open throttle. When it happens you should see a Traction Active message on the DIC. One way to find out is to deactivate traction control and see if it happens with TC turned off. Be careful and do this where is lots of room for the car to spin around if you don't know how to handle the loss of rear wheel traction.
Bill
Bill
#7
Everyone has a different definition of "open it up a little", but our resident retired oil engineer recommends 180'F on the oil if you can get it, before going full power/rpm.
I want the coolant to be at normal temp (~190'F) before moderately aggressive driving, and wait for the 180' oil before flogging it. Others are allowed to think differently, there are no actual LSx engine test results that I can find.
I want the coolant to be at normal temp (~190'F) before moderately aggressive driving, and wait for the 180' oil before flogging it. Others are allowed to think differently, there are no actual LSx engine test results that I can find.
I do wait a bit longer before doing any 6500 rpm shifts.
#8
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
well, 4500+ is in the upper range even if it's not redline. you turn offf tc,ah, etc. and you'd better be ready, real ready. you're riding on summer tires, w. 25 degree weather on roads that can have just a hint of moisture (think: condensation in fuel tank). you goose it and have lots of real estate around you. please.
as above, might also check on loose plug wire, gas pedal sensor, etc. but I'd like the idea of speedl. re Techron as first stab before going to the dealer. matter of fact, could even be excess water in the fuel tank....bottle of iso-dry gas might be a thought, too. try easy to hard stuff in that order.
as above, might also check on loose plug wire, gas pedal sensor, etc. but I'd like the idea of speedl. re Techron as first stab before going to the dealer. matter of fact, could even be excess water in the fuel tank....bottle of iso-dry gas might be a thought, too. try easy to hard stuff in that order.
#9
well, 4500+ is in the upper range even if it's not redline. you turn offf tc,ah, etc. and you'd better be ready, real ready. you're riding on summer tires, w. 25 degree weather on roads that can have just a hint of moisture (think: condensation in fuel tank). you goose it and have lots of real estate around you. please.
as above, might also check on loose plug wire, gas pedal sensor, etc. but I'd like the idea of speedl. re Techron as first stab before going to the dealer. matter of fact, could even be excess water in the fuel tank....bottle of iso-dry gas might be a thought, too. try easy to hard stuff in that order.
as above, might also check on loose plug wire, gas pedal sensor, etc. but I'd like the idea of speedl. re Techron as first stab before going to the dealer. matter of fact, could even be excess water in the fuel tank....bottle of iso-dry gas might be a thought, too. try easy to hard stuff in that order.
Don't think I've turned off TC when it's quite that cold yet, when it was warmer I still had a bunch of grip with the tires with TC off I guess. I do know that at 6000+ even with it on gets you pretty far sideways while cold.
#10
Drifting
Warm up
I don't believe that the engine near warm enough in a mile or 2 to be standing on the gas. Especially in cold weather. Come on !!
#11
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
I'll give Techron a try to start before going in to the dealer about it.
Don't think I've turned off TC when it's quite that cold yet, when it was warmer I still had a bunch of grip with the tires with TC off I guess. I do know that at 6000+ even with it on gets you pretty far sideways while cold.
Don't think I've turned off TC when it's quite that cold yet, when it was warmer I still had a bunch of grip with the tires with TC off I guess. I do know that at 6000+ even with it on gets you pretty far sideways while cold.
#12
Safety Car
Yes, it can apply brakes to a wheel. But it can also dramatically reduce engine power by closing the throttle & managing engine spark.
And it can do this proactively if it senses the rear wheels are beginning to lose traction... just like I'd expect with cold GS summer tires on a cold winter morning.
More details on pg 4-6: http://www.gmpartshouse.com/download...09corvette.pdf
#13
Drifting
I am guessing it needs a new set of points and a condenser. Or maybe rotor and cap.
In all seriousness, I have experienced the same thing as the OP. It was the TC shutting the engine down when the yaw sensor was detecting the rear end coming around. It was super quick and the engine fired right back up when she stabilized. Keep us posted on what you find.
In all seriousness, I have experienced the same thing as the OP. It was the TC shutting the engine down when the yaw sensor was detecting the rear end coming around. It was super quick and the engine fired right back up when she stabilized. Keep us posted on what you find.
#14
Interesting, I didn't know TC limited engine power too. I'm used to seeing the Active Handling message appear regularly, but don't think I've ever seen a traction message.
I did notice now watching the temperatures, that by that point in my drive (first major road I pull onto) the engine is only in the 110-120 degree range, so maybe I should be giving it more time. It's barely reaching 180 by the time I get to work though.
I did notice now watching the temperatures, that by that point in my drive (first major road I pull onto) the engine is only in the 110-120 degree range, so maybe I should be giving it more time. It's barely reaching 180 by the time I get to work though.
#15
Safety Car
But that's not the only concern... For best traction, the tires also need to warm-up.
#16
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St. Jude Donor '13
Interesting, I didn't know TC limited engine power too. I'm used to seeing the Active Handling message appear regularly, but don't think I've ever seen a traction message.
I did notice now watching the temperatures, that by that point in my drive (first major road I pull onto) the engine is only in the 110-120 degree range, so maybe I should be giving it more time. It's barely reaching 180 by the time I get to work though.
I did notice now watching the temperatures, that by that point in my drive (first major road I pull onto) the engine is only in the 110-120 degree range, so maybe I should be giving it more time. It's barely reaching 180 by the time I get to work though.
Looking through the grill, do you have a black "radiator", about 1/4 size, in front of the A/C condensor (which itself is in front of the real radiator)?
If so, you have the external oil cooler. You might be able to make some kind of removable cover, to help your oil run warmer. But with no oil cooler at all, it still takes about 25 miles for my oil to get to 180'F on a cool-but-not-cold Fall day. It's a PITA, but abusing the engine isn't a great idea either.