C7Joy

I know there are lots of ways to do the changes but I like to slide under with a creeper and I like EASY. I went with the 67" Race Ramps. Nice and roomy under there with 10" lift!!

WHT

People like to make simple jobs more difficult (somehow added complications increases our satisfaction level). However, it is very easy to change your oil without a ramp using a long extension ($45 Wright USA) and a shallow $2 Waly-Mart 3-inch drain pan. You can cheat by driving the front tires on a 2X10 if you are more bulky or have short arms . Very simple to accomplish and you can be finished while most people are still trying to drive on their ramps.

EDIT For Tools -

Ratchet


WR3422 - 34" Extra Long Extension [Amazon $43.63]:


Torque Wrench For Drain Plug (and oil filter as per GM shop manual )


OTC Drain Plug Pro (not needed, but helps if you have short arms):






Oil Filter Wrench:




Anti-seize For Drain Plug Threads (MUST adjust drain plug torque if used):
Dry = 100 %,
Lubed (light oil e.g. SAE 20) = -10%,
Anti-seize (Never Seize) = -35%)




2X10 (two short pieces for front tires if needed):

0Fred@ReverseLogic

Some DIYers like to do a general inspection while they are under their car doing the oil change. It's unlikely that you will find anything if you do the oil change laying on the ground next to the car with the wheels on the ground.

Over the years I have found plenty of things which were not readily visible that needed repairs. Stuff like bubbles in tires, bent rims, damaged engine cross member, damaged underbody panels, holes in evaporative emissions canister, broken sway bar links, etc.

It's not about making a simple job more difficult. It's about doing a thorough job. For people who have their cars serviced professionally, the technicians are doing these "inspections" looking for more work. If you are self-maintaining your car, it's your responsibility to keep your car road worthy.

FloridaGrandSport

100% I ordered the RLL-87-2 ramps for my GS, and use them for my other 2 vehicles as well. Light, easy to use, safe and I can craw around under every vehicle and check things out, clean inside the wheels etc.

Mad*Max

I just use a couple of pieces of wood to get the car onto my ramps and easy to do thereafter.

vig1116

i didn't read all the posts so i don't know if it's been mentioned. I use the rhino ramps ($40) but they are to steep for the vette. What i did was cut a piece of 2x6 for each ramp, prob about 2 feet, and drilled a hole for a bolt to fit flush mounted and put the bolt through the hole already in the front of the rhino ramp. works perfectly and for under $50. I cant justify spending $200 or more on ramps, but i know others can afford it so i'm not knocking them!

Snake.Oiler

^^^^ THIS ^^^^ plus I also have the extenders. It was more than I cared to paid. But the ease of putting the car up the ramps has made it sooooo worthwhile. Glad I made the purchase.

About the Rhino Ramps - I use these for my truck, but even my 4th gen Camaro wouldn't clear them with additional wood planks.

jwf

Race Ramps from Reverse Logic .. RLL-87-2 www.reverselogic.us

m.whitmell

I had the 56" set and found it pretty tight under my Z06....fortunately I lent this set to a friend who damaged them....I used this $$$ to buy the 2 piece 67" set.......should have ordered the longer set first.

0Fred@ReverseLogic

The 67" ramps have the exact same slope as the 56" ramps. So the clearance under the front of the car is the same with either ramp model. The only way to get more clearance is to add the XTenders to the standard ramps, or get one of the Reverse Logic models that have the XTenders integrated into the design. I stock 72" (8" platform) and 87" (10" platform) ramps with an initial incline of 6.8 degrees (same as the XTenders). In January, I will be shipping a new 2-stage incline RLL-80-2 ramp model with a 9" high platform and an incline section that can be inverted and used as a trailer ramp.

More details on the new ramp model are at these links:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-p...roduction.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-p...an-2013-a.html

WHT

First, I do have an expensive pair of ramps, three low profile jacks (including the AC DK13HLQ) and jack stands. And, use them if needed. The point of the post was simply oil changes are quick and easy without using jacks and/or expensive ramps. But, I also don't sell ramps and have a vested interest in promoting them.

Second, your Corvette must be different than mine. Mine is mostly sealed on the bottom. The only areas that need detailed inspection are the engine compartment, radiator, radiator shroud, track bars, sub-frames and suspension. These areas are easily checked without lifting the car during an oil change and I assure you my car is just as roadworthy as yours. Again, unlike yours, my Corvette also throws a code if there is a problem with the evaporation emissions canister and/or other emission systems that need attention.

Sure, if I do see a problem, I lift the car as needed to work on it.