Axle Nuts, Loose Again
#1
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St. Jude Donor '13
Axle Nuts, Loose Again
When our 2009 coupe had about 7k miles, the dealer did the axle nut bulletin- new nuts, Loctite, retorque, sit 24 hrs.
Recently at about 51k miles, I checked them by attempting to tighten. One of them moved at about 60 lb-ft.
So yesterday, a local shop (not the dealer) and I redid them- new nuts again, cleaned all the old Loctite. Had to order the Loctite 272 & solvent, no one had them in stock locally. When we removed the previous nuts, they both came off easily.
This would not have been a good job for the dealer- it took us an hour to get the old Loctite off by using Loctite Chisel solvent + wire brush + metal pick.
So, why did the previous job fail? I don't know, but here are some possibilities:
Loctite was old or wrong grade
Nut and/or axle not degreased
Insufficient torque when installing
Car moved before 24 hour setup time
We did it all correctly, so this time it had better stay together.
Just for grins, the axle nuts needed different size sockets depending on when the nuts were purchased/installed:
2006 factory nuts: 33mm
2006 replacement nuts: 33mm
2009 factory nuts: 34 mm
2009 replacement nuts: one 33mm, one 34mm
2009 latest nuts: 33mm
I've seen several different torque numbers claimed to be in the GM bulletin; 140, 160, 190.
Since our axle had been torqued twice already, and the Loctite should do a good job this time, we used 140 lb-ft. I'll post in the future if they come loose again.
Recently at about 51k miles, I checked them by attempting to tighten. One of them moved at about 60 lb-ft.
So yesterday, a local shop (not the dealer) and I redid them- new nuts again, cleaned all the old Loctite. Had to order the Loctite 272 & solvent, no one had them in stock locally. When we removed the previous nuts, they both came off easily.
This would not have been a good job for the dealer- it took us an hour to get the old Loctite off by using Loctite Chisel solvent + wire brush + metal pick.
So, why did the previous job fail? I don't know, but here are some possibilities:
Loctite was old or wrong grade
Nut and/or axle not degreased
Insufficient torque when installing
Car moved before 24 hour setup time
We did it all correctly, so this time it had better stay together.
Just for grins, the axle nuts needed different size sockets depending on when the nuts were purchased/installed:
2006 factory nuts: 33mm
2006 replacement nuts: 33mm
2009 factory nuts: 34 mm
2009 replacement nuts: one 33mm, one 34mm
2009 latest nuts: 33mm
I've seen several different torque numbers claimed to be in the GM bulletin; 140, 160, 190.
Since our axle had been torqued twice already, and the Loctite should do a good job this time, we used 140 lb-ft. I'll post in the future if they come loose again.
#2
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There were enough threads on mine (and room under the center wheel cap) that I used the old nut as a double nut and marked location. They haven't moved since.
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
A long time ago I thought I read of someone else doing the double-nut thing. A good reminder tho, if there's space to do it.
I didn't know the car came with Loctite used on it so possibly the initial cleaning process was less at the dealer. As to the waiting 24 hrs. before moving it (so that the Loctite would set up, I guess), somehow I just can't imagine that happening at/in a dealer's bay. But maybe...
Next report in 2 years!
I didn't know the car came with Loctite used on it so possibly the initial cleaning process was less at the dealer. As to the waiting 24 hrs. before moving it (so that the Loctite would set up, I guess), somehow I just can't imagine that happening at/in a dealer's bay. But maybe...
Next report in 2 years!
#4
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Mine has held, so far. At 368 miles, my dealer replaced the axle nuts on my 09 Z06 using loctite. Now, 24,000 miles later, no problems.
#5
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St. Jude Donor '13
A long time ago I thought I read of someone else doing the double-nut thing. A good reminder tho, if there's space to do it.
I didn't know the car came with Loctite used on it so possibly the initial cleaning process was less at the dealer. As to the waiting 24 hrs. before moving it (so that the Loctite would set up, I guess), somehow I just can't imagine that happening at/in a dealer's bay. But maybe...
Next report in 2 years!
I didn't know the car came with Loctite used on it so possibly the initial cleaning process was less at the dealer. As to the waiting 24 hrs. before moving it (so that the Loctite would set up, I guess), somehow I just can't imagine that happening at/in a dealer's bay. But maybe...
Next report in 2 years!
They kept my car overnight, but perhaps it got moved inside the building. Or the other possibilities I listed.
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Yup. The ZR comes with Nord Locks. Which made me scratch my head and wonder why they just didn't put them on all of them.
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
GM is recommending Loctite 272, if properly pre cleaned and applied - once cured, it is claimed to be permanent and require heat to disassemble. Appears to be a desperate but cheap fix! Beside there is heat in the hub area during operation and being it is a chemical and not a positive physical device, I don't believe any racing sanction currently would approve this method! Furthermore, more on my personal level as to involved using heat to remove? Clear coat on my aluminum wheel will suffer!
Double nutting is old school and I'd used it in the past for both captivation as well as removing studs! But, there is high possibility that can also fail!
---
The sure way to prevent flanged or regular hex nut from loosening within a cavity, where it is not feasible to lock wire is to do the modified Brun Lock - pilot drill, tap then screwed the flange portion to the mating hub surface below, using three equally spaced small machined heat treated socket head screw. But that process is beyond most people's capability here on the forum.
An possible solution without involving skill:
Currently, there is a better alternative - Nord-Lock Lock washer. Google their web site and see for yourself!
Double nutting is old school and I'd used it in the past for both captivation as well as removing studs! But, there is high possibility that can also fail!
---
The sure way to prevent flanged or regular hex nut from loosening within a cavity, where it is not feasible to lock wire is to do the modified Brun Lock - pilot drill, tap then screwed the flange portion to the mating hub surface below, using three equally spaced small machined heat treated socket head screw. But that process is beyond most people's capability here on the forum.
An possible solution without involving skill:
Currently, there is a better alternative - Nord-Lock Lock washer. Google their web site and see for yourself!
BTW, what does it cost, and what size is used? Last I read, the regular washers from GM were something like $11.
#11
Loctite can be loosen with a small propane torch or electric heat gun ( industrial hair drier ) . Cut some tin as a heat shield for the wheel . Once you hit about 200 - 250 F on the middle of a nut flat it comes off, at 300 F its liquid . Some use two part epoxy paint as a lock ,you only need to get the inner base threads of the nut and flat washer faces . I notice a clunk when backing up .... as loosened axle nuts .
Last edited by heli-vette; 11-23-2012 at 08:05 AM.
#12
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St. Jude Donor '13
It's possible to work on the axle nuts with the wheels installed, I've removed the center caps and checked them that way. But it's much more convenient to remove the rear wheels and get easier access to everything.
#13
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After reading this thread I went out and checked mine. THEY ARE LOOSE. In fact, the passenger side turned 1/4 turn, with very little effort. I have a 08 Vert purchased NEW. It has 27,000 miles. Is it still covered by warranty? Or am I better off just buying those Nor loc washers and torquing it specs myself?
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
After reading this thread I went out and checked mine. THEY ARE LOOSE. In fact, the passenger side turned 1/4 turn, with very little effort. I have a 08 Vert purchased NEW. It has 27,000 miles. Is it still covered by warranty? Or am I better off just buying those Nor loc washers and torquing it specs myself?
But, knowing what's been written above, seems like if you do it once w. these Nord Locs, it's done. As Victor sez, more costly but.....
#16
Has this changed very recently? My car (2013) has axle nuts with a..well, I'd call it a collar with tabs that bend down into keyways on the axle end. Never seen anything like them before.
#17
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St. Jude Donor '13
#18
Here are a couple, impromptu cellphone pics:
I can't tell if the slot and the tabs are pre-formed in the nut collar, or if there's some tool that's set over the end of the axle after the nut is tightened, then clocked to the keyway, then punches the tabs out and in.
I am 99% certain that that collar is part of the axle nut, and not some separate piece.
I can't tell if the slot and the tabs are pre-formed in the nut collar, or if there's some tool that's set over the end of the axle after the nut is tightened, then clocked to the keyway, then punches the tabs out and in.
I am 99% certain that that collar is part of the axle nut, and not some separate piece.
#19
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St. Jude Donor '13
Thanks for the pics!
That looks like a neat setup, and it only took them 7 years to figure it out.
Unfortunately, the older cars like our 2009 don't have the slots in the axle. But the new nuts/Loctite were still good on our 2006 when sold at 44k miles, so I'm reasonably hopeful the latest effort will stay in place.
That looks like a neat setup, and it only took them 7 years to figure it out.
Unfortunately, the older cars like our 2009 don't have the slots in the axle. But the new nuts/Loctite were still good on our 2006 when sold at 44k miles, so I'm reasonably hopeful the latest effort will stay in place.
Last edited by Gearhead Jim; 11-24-2012 at 09:07 PM.
#20
I guess there'd be a PN change on the axles whenever they instituted this. Wonder if it's on all models, or only some - do they all use the same axles?