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Cleaning the Engine.

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Old 11-16-2012, 02:05 PM
  #21  
Bill Dearborn
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Originally Posted by Flame Red
Everyone has an opinion about this. I'll give you my wisdom.

Cover you alternator with a plastic bag. Use Simple Green on a totally cold engine. Spray liberally and let soak for 5-10 minutes. Then wash off with a garden hose on very low pressure with a plant watering head setting. If you use a fire hose or high pressure you are likely to have expensive engine problems!

DO NOT use tire shine on your engine. All it will do is make a big greasy mess that will attract more dirt, make your hands sticky when you work on your engine, and be very difficult to remove.

There is an engine dressing can I bought at AutoZone but I cannot recall the name of it right now. It does not leave a greasy mess. You spray it on after cleaning then let the engine warm up and it dries leaving a nice finish. Safe and no residue unlike the horrible silicone products.

EDIT: It is called CD2 Engine Detailer

Simple Green works very well. I don't worry about the alternator and just spray a 50/50 mix of SG and water over everything including the insulator on the hood. I let it soak in for a few minutes and then spray down with my hose set on a gentle spray. Once rinsed I close the hood, start the engine and let the car idle for about 20 minutes. This gets the engine hot enough to boil off the rinse water. Then I open the hood and dry off any deep puddles that form in various locations around the engine compartment. The insulator may take a little longer to dry than the rest of the engine compartment but everything will look sharp with a minimum of effort. I use a towel to clean the front of the frame rails and to radiator shroud under the air cleaner. Be very careful using any Tire Shine or other shine treatments in the engine compartment. Most contain silicone which is a huge problem for the O2 sensors and since the intake is right where you would be applying the products it wouldn't take much for it to get through the engine and onto the O2 sensors.

Bill
Old 11-16-2012, 02:53 PM
  #22  
John Harry
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Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
I get reasonable results by using old sox as "gloves", dampened with warm water and wipe away much of the dust and dirt.
I found this tip on CF when I got my C6 a few years ago. Maybe you were the source. It's worked well for me.
Old 11-16-2012, 03:00 PM
  #23  
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My engine never gets that dirty. Most of the time a wet sock will clean everything and then just some WD40 on another sock and it looks great.

Originally Posted by ADVBedouin
I'm a big fan of CRC Silicone spray, in the red can, from most autoparts stores. It goes on very light & leaves zero residue, but it protects & makes all the black items, rubber, vinyl, plastic, etc look like new. I tried an off-brand silicone spray & it went on greasy & I tossed it, so be careful of that.

I dont use it but my buddy does on his cars. Looks good too. He does it every spring and the car sees minimal driving so rarely gets dirty anyway.

Last edited by TLS_Addict; 11-16-2012 at 04:52 PM.
Old 11-16-2012, 03:24 PM
  #24  
LS WON
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Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn
Simple Green works very well. I don't worry about the alternator and just spray a 50/50 mix of SG and water over everything including the insulator on the hood. I let it soak in for a few minutes and then spray down with my hose set on a gentle spray. Once rinsed I close the hood, start the engine and let the car idle for about 20 minutes. This gets the engine hot enough to boil off the rinse water. Then I open the hood and dry off any deep puddles that form in various locations around the engine compartment. The insulator may take a little longer to dry than the rest of the engine compartment but everything will look sharp with a minimum of effort. I use a towel to clean the front of the frame rails and to radiator shroud under the air cleaner. Be very careful using any Tire Shine or other shine treatments in the engine compartment. Most contain silicone which is a huge problem for the O2 sensors and since the intake is right where you would be applying the products it wouldn't take much for it to get through the engine and onto the O2 sensors.

Bill
Where do you purchase this CD-2 and what is the cost?
Old 11-16-2012, 03:44 PM
  #25  
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What can I use to take the shiny glare off the windshield from putting Armour All on the dash previously? Thanks.
Old 11-16-2012, 04:42 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by highside51
303


Gives all the engine parts a nice deep color that doesn't fade.

MT
Old 11-16-2012, 04:51 PM
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303 all the way. I heard it was the only product endorsed to be used on airplane door seals. Don't know if it is true, but that is what I heard.
Old 11-16-2012, 06:29 PM
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Thanks everyone for the good advice..I went to the dealer today too and got the battery bolt and block and now the battery is secure again..10 bucks for parts.
Old 11-16-2012, 06:34 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by MB2
What can I use to take the shiny glare off the windshield from putting Armour All on the dash previously? Thanks.
Dashmat.
Old 11-16-2012, 06:37 PM
  #30  
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I used the black on black, and in and out spray they both work great..
I just purchased my 06 and the last owner lived on a dusty road, these sprays worked great..Turns them black like new ..
Old 11-16-2012, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by C5kid
I wipe it down with Mother's Back to Black. It restores that glossy black look and last a pretty good amount of time.

but I have since tried ArmorAll Extreme Shield Wax , it works as well if not better
Old 11-16-2012, 07:10 PM
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Simple Green oxidises metal. I don't like using it on bright metal. Foamy Engine Brite does not.

Last edited by Ketchum; 11-17-2012 at 08:27 AM.
Old 11-16-2012, 07:43 PM
  #33  
cegusa
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Originally Posted by MB2
What can I use to take the shiny glare off the windshield from putting Armour All on the dash previously? Thanks.
Adams all purpose cleaner (APC) will do the trick. Very well in many other cleaning projects as well. A 50/50 mix would be sufficient.
Old 11-16-2012, 08:23 PM
  #34  
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THis is the stuff right here..



or this one.
Old 11-16-2012, 09:36 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Ketchum
Simple Green oxidisies metal. I don't like using it on bright metal. Foamy Engine Brite does not.
I did not know this. Anyone else who uses simple green notice the metal in the engine bay oxidize?
Old 11-18-2012, 06:32 PM
  #36  
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Do not use silicone. Anywhere!
Old 11-18-2012, 06:43 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by ADVBedouin
I'm a big fan of CRC Silicone spray, in the red can, from most autoparts stores. It goes on very light & leaves zero residue, but it protects & makes all the black items, rubber, vinyl, plastic, etc look like new. I tried an off-brand silicone spray & it went on greasy & I tossed it, so be careful of that.
last long also

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Old 11-18-2012, 06:44 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by RACE U
Do not use silicone. Anywhere!
why?
just curious.
Old 11-18-2012, 07:39 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn
Simple Green works very well. I don't worry about the alternator and just spray a 50/50 mix of SG and water over everything including the insulator on the hood. I let it soak in for a few minutes and then spray down with my hose set on a gentle spray. Once rinsed I close the hood, start the engine and let the car idle for about 20 minutes. This gets the engine hot enough to boil off the rinse water. Then I open the hood and dry off any deep puddles that form in various locations around the engine compartment. The insulator may take a little longer to dry than the rest of the engine compartment but everything will look sharp with a minimum of effort. I use a towel to clean the front of the frame rails and to radiator shroud under the air cleaner. Be very careful using any Tire Shine or other shine treatments in the engine compartment. Most contain silicone which is a huge problem for the O2 sensors and since the intake is right where you would be applying the products it wouldn't take much for it to get through the engine and onto the O2 sensors.

Bill
Also APC works well if you dont have any simple green. Just another note, if you have an open air filter, cover that as well. Just dont forget to remove the bag before you start the car.
Old 11-19-2012, 10:18 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Goatdad
why?
just curious.
Because you can plasti dip it, brotha.......


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