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DIY Fix for "Loose Gas Cap" indicator aka code P0449 w/Pics
#121
Another twist to the 449 code
So, I got the lose Gas Cap message and replaced the cap. Then the check engine light came on and I got the 449 code at the emmissions test. I replaced the vent valve and added the harness. The code cleared, I went to emissons test after about 100 miles and the tech said "you need to drive it more, the computer says it doesn't have enough data". I drove the car for another week and the engine light came on. Now I have 3 codes, two 446's and the 449. Anyone have a suggestion?
#123
Drifting
Member Since: Jan 2010
Location: Schererville Indiana
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Not that it's any help, but I changed mine on my 07 about a week ago and so far, so good. I paid $25 for it at the zone. I figured it's the same cheap *** junk as genuine GM but at least it has a lifetime guarantee vs the one year guarantee from GM. It also came with the adapter cable but I didn't need it.
#124
Thanks, sure made that one easy. Took all the guess work out of it, good review.
Driving down the road and you see "Check Gas Cap" warning come up on the Drivers Info Center (DIC)...take heart, it's an easy fix and does not take much time or money to repair yourself.
First, check your fuses and your gas cap. The cap should be on good and make sure it's secure. Tank up and drive your car for about 50 miles. If the code does not clear you should replace your gas cap. I purchased one from my local Chevrolet dealer for $22.
Secondly, if after tanking up and replacing your gas cap the warning does not clear, then it's time to use your trusty code reader and see if you can't read and clear the code. If you don't have one you can purchase them at your local parts store for about $50.
Plug it in the OBD adapter located under the driver’s side dash.
Follow your reader’s instructions and read the codes.
In my case I had a P0449 and a P0455. P0449 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction and P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)
I tried resetting my codes, but they would come back within seconds. The next step is purchase a new Fuel Vent Solenoid from your local dealer. In my case it was about $25. GM also recommends an upgraded harness ($30)...but it was not needed, so I will return it.
The Fuel Vent Solenoid is located on the passenger side tank near it’s top and is easy to get to. I removed my rear tire, jacked up the car, placed jack stands and chocks (I'm super cautious under a car).
Once under the car this is what you will see, and I have my finger on the part:
Remove the Vent Hose (it runs to your emissions canister) using a pair of pliers. You can rotate the clamp if needed to access the dog ears to open the clamp.
Unplug the power connection
Slide the Vent Solenoid Assy of its bracket. Although it looks like it would slide towards the front of the car it does not. Simply lift the back of the assy high enough for the dog ear to clear the back of the bracket and slide toward the rear of the car. The pic below shows you how it mounts and the dog ear location.
Put the new Vent Solenoid Assy back on by placing it on the bracket and slide it towards the front of the car. You will hear it click in place. Plug the power plug back in and reconnect the hose.
Here is the new one installed.
Now plug your code reader back in and scan for codes. If they come up hit erase.
This is what you should now see on your code reader. No Codes and the DIC is clear with no check engine light or warnings.
From start to finish the repair took 20 mins. The cost of the parts, including gas cap was about $50 and if the harness is needed it's about $80. If you don't have a code reader add another $50. Only tool needed is a pair of pliers.
In all this is a simple repair and does not cost much in terms of time or money to do yourself.
I hope this helps,
John
First, check your fuses and your gas cap. The cap should be on good and make sure it's secure. Tank up and drive your car for about 50 miles. If the code does not clear you should replace your gas cap. I purchased one from my local Chevrolet dealer for $22.
Secondly, if after tanking up and replacing your gas cap the warning does not clear, then it's time to use your trusty code reader and see if you can't read and clear the code. If you don't have one you can purchase them at your local parts store for about $50.
Plug it in the OBD adapter located under the driver’s side dash.
Follow your reader’s instructions and read the codes.
In my case I had a P0449 and a P0455. P0449 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction and P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)
I tried resetting my codes, but they would come back within seconds. The next step is purchase a new Fuel Vent Solenoid from your local dealer. In my case it was about $25. GM also recommends an upgraded harness ($30)...but it was not needed, so I will return it.
The Fuel Vent Solenoid is located on the passenger side tank near it’s top and is easy to get to. I removed my rear tire, jacked up the car, placed jack stands and chocks (I'm super cautious under a car).
Once under the car this is what you will see, and I have my finger on the part:
Remove the Vent Hose (it runs to your emissions canister) using a pair of pliers. You can rotate the clamp if needed to access the dog ears to open the clamp.
Unplug the power connection
Slide the Vent Solenoid Assy of its bracket. Although it looks like it would slide towards the front of the car it does not. Simply lift the back of the assy high enough for the dog ear to clear the back of the bracket and slide toward the rear of the car. The pic below shows you how it mounts and the dog ear location.
Put the new Vent Solenoid Assy back on by placing it on the bracket and slide it towards the front of the car. You will hear it click in place. Plug the power plug back in and reconnect the hose.
Here is the new one installed.
Now plug your code reader back in and scan for codes. If they come up hit erase.
This is what you should now see on your code reader. No Codes and the DIC is clear with no check engine light or warnings.
From start to finish the repair took 20 mins. The cost of the parts, including gas cap was about $50 and if the harness is needed it's about $80. If you don't have a code reader add another $50. Only tool needed is a pair of pliers.
In all this is a simple repair and does not cost much in terms of time or money to do yourself.
I hope this helps,
John
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corvette312 (04-18-2016)
#125
Le Mans Master
[QUOTE=OOPS!;1587882921]#19257603 is conversion harness for 2007.
Mine also looks like the one on the left unlike the one that OP showed (on the right) in his original post.
I think they stopped producing the original regardless of the year which would mean that people would have to get the harness as well.
Regardless, I have a Magnaflow and can just barely fit my hand in there so I'm gonna try the gas cap before I swap out the solenoid.
Mine also looks like the one on the left unlike the one that OP showed (on the right) in his original post.
I think they stopped producing the original regardless of the year which would mean that people would have to get the harness as well.
Regardless, I have a Magnaflow and can just barely fit my hand in there so I'm gonna try the gas cap before I swap out the solenoid.
#126
Burning Brakes
Was a tough fit for my meat hook for sure.
Would have been great to have neighbor's skinny teenage daughter help but she wasn't home when I did mine. Her arm and hand could have done the swap in 5 minutes lol.
Would have been great to have neighbor's skinny teenage daughter help but she wasn't home when I did mine. Her arm and hand could have done the swap in 5 minutes lol.
#129
Race Director
It's a very common issue on GM trucks, especially the 1999-2007's. Placement of the solenoid is poor on them so they get clogged full of dust if you drive on gravel roads. My 2002 Avalanche recently threw a P0446 code for this issue. It was amazing how packed it was with dust. The replacement part was $30 and looks the same as the one pictured in this thread.
#130
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: FL
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CI-7-8-9-10 Veteran
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11,'19,'22
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Your write up was immensely helpful and it fixed the same issue on my 2006 with 83K miles. Prices for parts were the same, but it took me an hour to swap out the part. I found accessibility to the clamp on the rubber hose to be quite cumbersome. Many four-lettered words were dispensed, but in the end, the fix is successful.
Much thanks!
Craig
Much thanks!
Craig
#131
Something else that can factor in
I had replaced my Gas Cap and the Evaporator valve based on the warning from the display and a 449 code. (see my earlier post) After two weeks the Check engine light came back on with a 446 and now a 496 code. What we then found was Gas Tank pressure sensor was reading a negative pressure with the gas cap off the tank. Replaced the sensor, (much more difficult than the Evaporator Valve) and assume now that neither of the other components were faulty. Pressure sensor was $83.42 list price and 3 hours labor. fingers crossed
#132
Burning Brakes
If anyone needs to do this fix, I've got the part for sale in the Parts For Sale forum... I thought I could do the swap per the instructions here but my hand was WAY TO FAT to reach into the space - and I don't have a little kid living next door to help me... So I took my car in and let the GMPP take care of it - I was trying to avoid that because ANYTHING is always at least a week in the shop because of my schedule... I'm trying to get $25 for the solenoid valve including the adaptor pigtail and I'll pay the shipping anywhere in the USA...
Click here for the part for sale post Part For Sale Thread
Click here for the part for sale post Part For Sale Thread
#133
Burning Brakes
Great write up. Nailed the problem with a fix and really helped me out! Thanks
^ just have fingers crossed I don't have the issue Harris did above. :-?
^ just have fingers crossed I don't have the issue Harris did above. :-?
Last edited by nch209; 03-29-2016 at 02:21 PM.
#135
Heel & Toe
Member Since: Apr 2009
Location: Chesapeake VA
Posts: 19
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"Mine also looks like the one on the left unlike the one that OP showed (on the right) in his original post.
I think they stopped producing the original regardless of the year which would mean that people would have to get the harness as well."
I needed the part and pigtail... the fix worked perfectly - no trouble or code since.
#136
The statement above was correct (at least 18 months ago when I did mine on my 2007 Z06)... I quote,
"Mine also looks like the one on the left unlike the one that OP showed (on the right) in his original post.
I think they stopped producing the original regardless of the year which would mean that people would have to get the harness as well."
I needed the part and pigtail... the fix worked perfectly - no trouble or code since.
"Mine also looks like the one on the left unlike the one that OP showed (on the right) in his original post.
I think they stopped producing the original regardless of the year which would mean that people would have to get the harness as well."
I needed the part and pigtail... the fix worked perfectly - no trouble or code since.
Just had a look at my connector (06 Z) and surprise, it's got the "8" shaped connector. Probably why GM dealers themselves recommend using an adapter - they don't know which car uses what either.
I did poke my solenoid with my multimeter, and there's no continuity, so it's shot for sure.
#138
Heel & Toe
Just replaced this also. I ended up needing the special adapter cable because the connector on the new part is different. Anyway. You don't even need to remove the rear tire.
Below there is a connector going to the bottom of the rear differential. Why is one of them just there and not connected to anything?
O and i also have a rear differential leak. Anyone care to share how difficult that job is?
This connector is going to the bottom of the rear differential. Why is one of them just there and not connected to anything?
Below there is a connector going to the bottom of the rear differential. Why is one of them just there and not connected to anything?
O and i also have a rear differential leak. Anyone care to share how difficult that job is?
This connector is going to the bottom of the rear differential. Why is one of them just there and not connected to anything?
Last edited by E39M5Speed; 05-09-2016 at 05:32 PM.
#139
Still can.t find
Driving down the road and you see "Check Gas Cap" warning come up on the Drivers Info Center (DIC)...take heart, it's an easy fix and does not take much time or money to repair yourself.
First, check your fuses and your gas cap. The cap should be on good and make sure it's secure. Tank up and drive your car for about 50 miles. If the code does not clear you should replace your gas cap. I purchased one from my local Chevrolet dealer for $22.
Secondly, if after tanking up and replacing your gas cap the warning does not clear, then it's time to use your trusty code reader and see if you can't read and clear the code. If you don't have one you can purchase them at your local parts store for about $50.
Plug it in the OBD adapter located under the driver’s side dash.
Follow your reader’s instructions and read the codes.
In my case I had a P0449 and a P0455. P0449 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction and P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)
I tried resetting my codes, but they would come back within seconds. The next step is purchase a new Fuel Vent Solenoid from your local dealer. In my case it was about $25. GM also recommends an upgraded harness ($30)...but it was not needed, so I will return it.
The Fuel Vent Solenoid is located on the passenger side tank near it’s top and is easy to get to. I removed my rear tire, jacked up the car, placed jack stands and chocks (I'm super cautious under a car).
Once under the car this is what you will see, and I have my finger on the part:
Remove the Vent Hose (it runs to your emissions canister) using a pair of pliers. You can rotate the clamp if needed to access the dog ears to open the clamp.
Unplug the power connection
Slide the Vent Solenoid Assy of its bracket. Although it looks like it would slide towards the front of the car it does not. Simply lift the back of the assy high enough for the dog ear to clear the back of the bracket and slide toward the rear of the car. The pic below shows you how it mounts and the dog ear location.
Put the new Vent Solenoid Assy back on by placing it on the bracket and slide it towards the front of the car. You will hear it click in place. Plug the power plug back in and reconnect the hose.
Here is the new one installed.
Now plug your code reader back in and scan for codes. If they come up hit erase.
This is what you should now see on your code reader. No Codes and the DIC is clear with no check engine light or warnings.
From start to finish the repair took 20 mins. The cost of the parts, including gas cap was about $50 and if the harness is needed it's about $80. If you don't have a code reader add another $50. Only tool needed is a pair of pliers.
In all this is a simple repair and does not cost much in terms of time or money to do yourself.
I hope this helps,
John
First, check your fuses and your gas cap. The cap should be on good and make sure it's secure. Tank up and drive your car for about 50 miles. If the code does not clear you should replace your gas cap. I purchased one from my local Chevrolet dealer for $22.
Secondly, if after tanking up and replacing your gas cap the warning does not clear, then it's time to use your trusty code reader and see if you can't read and clear the code. If you don't have one you can purchase them at your local parts store for about $50.
Plug it in the OBD adapter located under the driver’s side dash.
Follow your reader’s instructions and read the codes.
In my case I had a P0449 and a P0455. P0449 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction and P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)
I tried resetting my codes, but they would come back within seconds. The next step is purchase a new Fuel Vent Solenoid from your local dealer. In my case it was about $25. GM also recommends an upgraded harness ($30)...but it was not needed, so I will return it.
The Fuel Vent Solenoid is located on the passenger side tank near it’s top and is easy to get to. I removed my rear tire, jacked up the car, placed jack stands and chocks (I'm super cautious under a car).
Once under the car this is what you will see, and I have my finger on the part:
Remove the Vent Hose (it runs to your emissions canister) using a pair of pliers. You can rotate the clamp if needed to access the dog ears to open the clamp.
Unplug the power connection
Slide the Vent Solenoid Assy of its bracket. Although it looks like it would slide towards the front of the car it does not. Simply lift the back of the assy high enough for the dog ear to clear the back of the bracket and slide toward the rear of the car. The pic below shows you how it mounts and the dog ear location.
Put the new Vent Solenoid Assy back on by placing it on the bracket and slide it towards the front of the car. You will hear it click in place. Plug the power plug back in and reconnect the hose.
Here is the new one installed.
Now plug your code reader back in and scan for codes. If they come up hit erase.
This is what you should now see on your code reader. No Codes and the DIC is clear with no check engine light or warnings.
From start to finish the repair took 20 mins. The cost of the parts, including gas cap was about $50 and if the harness is needed it's about $80. If you don't have a code reader add another $50. Only tool needed is a pair of pliers.
In all this is a simple repair and does not cost much in terms of time or money to do yourself.
I hope this helps,
John
#140
I followed your directions and video. When I removed the rear tire there was nothing there. You could barly see part of the bottom of the tank. Do you have to remove all of the fender well shroud?
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