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I believe if you have one working FOB and one none working FOB you can re- sync the none working one in the glovebox slot. You have to make sure the working FOB is inside the car at the same time. If the working FOB is not in the car you will wind up with two none working FOBs. If neither of your FOBs are working meaning not even starting the car. Giving you a Message, No FOB Detected. And you have changed both batteries in both FOBs with no change. You may have to have the car towed to the dealership. They can sync both FOBs at a cost.
both fobs have new batteries, both fobs do everything, but start the car, i can place either one in the slot and starts. so i don t believe it is a dealer reprogramming thing.
Again, the fobs don't magically unprogram themselves. If your car starts with the fob in the glove-box slot, they are not unprogrammed. Heck, if they unlock the car, they aren't unprogrammed.
Some other thing is at play, but DON'T REPROGRAM the key to try and get it to work, this will only introduce some new problem to the mix.
We put some distance between the FOB and the Blackberry and it solved the Infiniti FOB battery problem. Eventually she got rid of the Blackberry, but there was a lesson therein about too many electronic devices trying to reach out and communicate inside a woman's purse.
Perhaps I should change my user name from Doppler 1992 to Long Shot 1992.
i tried the, leave the phone in the house tip, to no avail this am. i need to keep searching, i think i will never take it to the stealership to have them look at, and replace things trial and error at my expense.
thanks Al
In both types of fob, the circuit board is designed to be separate from the case...it can even fall out in the hand sometimes. There is no need to attach it to either half.
...I don't think the case will close properly if the PCB is not in the correct place. Just replaced both of mine for my '13 GS. Both batteries tested just under 3V so I probably didn't need to replace them yet. I referred to the owners manual for how to open the case and no problem. (There is a small notch on one side of the FOB shell) Just take it slow and pry carefully around the case until the two halves separate. (I used a small straight blade screwdriver) BE CAUTIOUS however of the small plastic lever on one of the shell halves that you push to release the key from the FOB shell. It will break off if your not careful... OOPS! I found that starting with the back end first (the end opposite of where the key goes) then working the two halves back together worked best. Careful again to make sure the key release lever is in its slot in the case before you snap it fully closed.
Thank you for this excellent and useful tutorial, which I used with great success last night!
Originally Posted by JKbride
For those of us who have pulled engines or transmissions you might think a Key Fob battery replacment is no biggie...in fact it is not, but if done wrong or you break your Fob you could be in a real jam.
The below takes the mystery out of changing the battery and anyone can do it. Hope this DIY thread helps
Edit: The Fob below is for a 2005-2007. I would suspect the process would be similar for others (2008-2013), but in truth I don't know that for sure. Please use care when opening the two halves. The seal is tight and if you use too much force or don't open evenly from side to side you may break the case. Tnxs to 68/70Vette for his warning on this issue for the newer Fobs.
The Steps:
First you need to purchase the batteries. You can get them at most places, and I picked mine up at a local chain auto parts store. There are two to a pack, and enough to do two Fobs.
Next remove your key ring from the Fob. You need to do this so you can open it.
Locate the slot on the front side of the Fob and use a quarter to pry it open. If you use a smaller mil coin or screw driver you will have too much play in the slot and could mar your Fob.
Once you crack it open, use your coin to work it open evenly from one side to the other till the halves are seperated. The Fob has a water tight seal which requires you to open it evenly or risk damage.
Here is a close up of the water seal. I have washed mine before and the seal held, so you don't want to damage it.
Once you have it open this is what you will see. On one half you have the electronics and on the other the battery.
You can remove the battery by carefully placing a screw driver under it and lifting. There are 3 clips which hold it in place, and once you pry it loose from one clip, the battery will lift out.
If for some reason when you lift the battery out, you might lift the whole clip assy out too...no biggie if it does. In fact, once I had my battery out I took the clip assy out and gently pushed a little on the clips to tighten them up. Just note (you can use these pics if necessary) how it goes back into the FOB.
Take your new battery with the positive side down (it will be marked with a + symbol) and press it into place. You do this by placing the battery under two clips and working it under the third.
To put it back together, place the halves together starting at the top of the FOB (oppisite the key ring slot). There are two small dog ears that fit into slots.
Working from the top end, use your thumb and forefinger to press the sides together, working evenly from side to side. The seal requires you to press firmily for the Fob halves to go together. NOTE: I have read where some use a Que-Tip and small amount of Vaseline on the seal for ease of putting it back together...in my case it was not needed.
Once you have it sealed, inspect the seams and make sure you do not have not gaps.
Now do a functions check, Lock, Unlock, Trunk and Alarm. Put the Fob in your pocket and see that your doors open and the car starts.
If not, mke sure its sealed tightly...if not, the battery clips will not make contact with the electronics. Other probems could be the battery is installed upside down or it's not making good contact with the retaining clips.
Word of advice, change the battery in only one key Fob at a time. You want to make sure you have at least one working Fobe at all times.
I hope fellow CF members find this useful and that it takes the mystery out of changing your battery
After all the headaches I've gone through the last month with getting the code from GM to have a key cut, losing both fobs while trying to program a new one I finally had to buy a third fob. It was a used fob so I took it to my chevy dealer and they programmed it no charge. I decided this morning to change the battery since I did not know the age of the one in there and once put back together....NADA, ZIP, ZILCH. Nothing happening. I put in a known good battery that read 3.15 volts and am waiting for my son to return with the car to try it out. I learned a valuable lesson the last time I tried the "key 5 times" thing and it wiped out BOTH fobs. I am NOT doing that again. I am hoping this new battery will correct it. I know the fob does not lose its program simply by changing the battery..........GM isn't THAT stupid
After all the headaches I've gone through the last month with getting the code from GM to have a key cut, losing both fobs while trying to program a new one I finally had to buy a third fob. It was a used fob so I took it to my chevy dealer and they programmed it no charge. I decided this morning to change the battery since I did not know the age of the one in there and once put back together....NADA, ZIP, ZILCH. Nothing happening. I put in a known good battery that read 3.15 volts and am waiting for my son to return with the car to try it out. I learned a valuable lesson the last time I tried the "key 5 times" thing and it wiped out BOTH fobs. I am NOT doing that again. I am hoping this new battery will correct it. I know the fob does not lose its program simply by changing the battery..........GM isn't THAT stupid
These instructions may work better....more complete...
I came across this post when I was looking for a new battery clip, figured I'd post my solution incase it helps someone else.
When I purchased my car one of the fobs was missing the clip within the fob that holds the battery and makes contact with the other half of the fob. I was not able to find that clip component anywhere, however other GM style clips are available all over ebay (the one I ordered was called "Remote Battery Terminal Replacement For GM Select Keyless Entry Remote Fob"). I was able to bend the clip and with a little encouragement get the battery in the proper location and making appropriate contact and now it works great.
I came across this post when I was looking for a new battery clip, figured I'd post my solution incase it helps someone else.
When I purchased my car one of the fobs was missing the clip within the fob that holds the battery and makes contact with the other half of the fob. I was not able to find that clip component anywhere, however other GM style clips are available all over ebay (the one I ordered was called "Remote Battery Terminal Replacement For GM Select Keyless Entry Remote Fob"). I was able to bend the clip and with a little encouragement get the battery in the proper location and making appropriate contact and now it works great.
What year is the Corvette this fob is for? Can't see front of key fob.
What year is the Corvette this key fob is for? Can't see front of key fob. Long time ago I tried to replace batteries myself (first time) and broke part of keyfob. It still works fine but now from now on I just go to a watch repair place to do it for me.
What year is the Corvette this key fob is for? Can't see front of key fob. Long time ago I tried to replace batteries myself (first time) and broke part of keyfob. It still works fine but now from now on I just go to a watch repair place to do it for me.
Is from a 2006 corvette z06... I think it's the same from 05-08.
I cracked the case the first battery change when I did it myself and ever since then I am using a rubber protector that hold the whole plastic peace together that protects fob in case it falls onto ground. As said before now I just go to watch shop repair.
I got the new style fobs for my '07 last fall, and was going to remove the batt from the spare. I searched this site and found this thread, hoping to find specific instructions on the new style. I scanned through the first two pages and the last page, but didn't notice anything. Maybe someone addressed this in the 10 pages I didn't look at, but here is what I did.
So I looked closely at the new fob, and saw a small slot where the arrow shows below. I took the key out, and a gentle pry with a small screwdriver and the halves started to separate. I moved the screwdriver a ways a few times and it came right apart. Much easier than my old ones.
02-20-2015, 01:39 PM
.. OOPS! I found that starting with the back end first (the end opposite of where the key goes) then working the two halves back together worked best. Careful again to make sure the key release lever is in its slot in the case before you snap it fully closed.
Maybe someone addressed this in the 10 pages I didn't look at, but here is what I did.
