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Dead 2013 z06!!!

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Old 10-01-2012, 04:02 PM
  #81  
ruxvette
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Nah, you bellied up to the bar and fessed up. That's how you learn. Good times are ahead.
PS...don't use a trickle charger...use a battery tender or battery maintainer. Just sayin...
Old 10-01-2012, 04:09 PM
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I also just discovered that a metal post I thought was grounded wasn't. I have to connect the negative directly onto the engine. Then my charger started showing amps drawn. But, yeah, I should probably just get a tender....lessons learned....I just don't want anyone else to go through what I did and to learn from my mistake. I'll just take everyone's advice here and get a good tender. It'll save me from accidentally overcharging the battery, which could damage it. Otherwise, it's great to be back in the saddle again.
Old 10-01-2012, 05:35 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by SHM
I also just discovered that a metal post I thought was grounded wasn't. I have to connect the negative directly onto the engine. Then my charger started showing amps drawn. But, yeah, I should probably just get a tender....lessons learned....I just don't want anyone else to go through what I did and to learn from my mistake. I'll just take everyone's advice here and get a good tender. It'll save me from accidentally overcharging the battery, which could damage it. Otherwise, it's great to be back in the saddle again.
This is what I use $20 at Wallyworld.....

http://www.walmart.com/ip/15140193?a...l5=pla&veh=sem



The XM1-5 1.5 Amp Fully Automatic Power Charger and Maintainer is a wonderful power source that works great for charging vehicles like motorcycles, car, tractors and lawn-mowers. Making use of float-mode monitoring, this microprocessor controlled battery charger ensures that its dual 6 & 12 volt batteries are fully charged. With its versatility of use, it is an ideal product to use at home or office. The automotive battery charger comes with LEDs that indicate charging, charged and power modes. Its compact size allows you to store it easily when not in use. The battery charger maintainer features automatic voltage detection and automatic temperature compensation that ensure user friendly usage. Safety start, thermal runaway protection and reverse hookup protection ensure safe and effective handling of the charger.
XM1-5 1.5 Amp Fully Automatic Power Charger and Maintainer:
1.5 amp charger and maintainer
Fully automatic
Microprocessor controlled
Automatic voltage detection
Automatic temperature compensation
Thermal runaway protection
Safety start feature
LEDs indicate charging, charged and power
Quick disconnect harness
Reverse hookup protection



Old 10-01-2012, 05:57 PM
  #84  
SUB VETTE
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I use a Battery Tender + which you can find at Amazon for about $45.
Old 10-01-2012, 06:41 PM
  #85  
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Del Tran Battery Tender. Best there is period. Have had one on my airplane for 5 years (same one for 5 years!!) and one on the Z06. Flawless.
Old 10-01-2012, 06:42 PM
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No need for a tender. Just never shut it off. Or, Just get a battery from Nissan or Toyota.
Old 10-01-2012, 07:08 PM
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Not sure I buy the not fully charged story with 350 miles on the odometer. I would of demanded a replacement, My Grand Sport has sat for up to 2 weeks and starts with no problem. Good Luck
Old 10-01-2012, 07:13 PM
  #88  
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My 05 has sat for nearly 4 weeks and starts no problem. Have never used a tender.
Old 10-01-2012, 08:45 PM
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Some people use the terms Trickle Charger and Battery Tender/Maintainer interchangably, but they are different animals. A basic trickle charger just keeps charging whether your battery needs it or not, and can cause problems over time. A tender/maintainer senses when the battery gets slightly low, charges it back up, then shuts off until the charge slowly bleeds down minutes/hours/days later.

As others have said, either your battery was defective, or something drained it, or it never got properly charged at all. Once you know for sure, the cure is usually pretty easy.

Old 10-01-2012, 10:33 PM
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SHM - does your car have a 'PAL' - Personal Audio Link - installed??

I had one installed when i took delivery of my ordered 2013 GS - apparently the unit was faulty and it kept on powering/cycling itself on and off (you could hear it 'clicking' every 30 seconds or so in the passenger side floorboard area). Annnnd then, the Saturday morning after it was installed, i went to got to Starbucks and............CLICK, CLICK, CLICK!!!

So, just curious if your car had a 'PAL' and, i feel your pain brothah.
Old 10-01-2012, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
Some people use the terms Trickle Charger and Battery Tender/Maintainer interchangably, but they are different animals. A basic trickle charger just keeps charging whether your battery needs it or not, and can cause problems over time. A tender/maintainer senses when the battery gets slightly low, charges it back up, then shuts off until the charge slowly bleeds down minutes/hours/days later.

As others have said, either your battery was defective, or something drained it, or it never got properly charged at all. Once you know for sure, the cure is usually pretty easy.

Notice the words above: YOU are talking about a trickle charger. Everyone else on here is talking about a maintainer. They are NOT the same thing. Get the latter for daily use. Use the former for when it's needed.

Also, since you've been on here from July, start reading up on some of the threads where the topic is unknown to you. Education is free, on here.

For instance, dealer/service person is correct: there are a lot of draining items, computers, sensors, etc. on a C6 unlike a lot of other cars, new, old, current, etc. And he was correct to check the entire charging system incl. the slightly undersized (now don't go off on a tear that this is going to blow up your car) alternator for any loss of performance or excess drains.

He is not correct about the fob location. But rather than flame, educate yourself. For seven years on CF-C6 there've probably been an average of 5 threads per week (that means, what? over 1,000 threads on battery, charging, alternator, dead battery, etc.?) on batteries, charging, etc.

So, please: read and relieve your anxiety and incidentally become a very informed C6 owner along the way.
Old 10-02-2012, 08:21 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by SHM
Ok...I'm back to take my medicine, I guess...the dealer's shop called and told me the battery was actually ok. Apparently, it was never deep charged. They charged it Friday night with a deep charger. They checked the electrical system and all appeared fine. Then they let it just sit over the weekend. It started this morning and they retested the battery. It was putting out over the CCAs it's rated for. I think he said they also tested the alternator, too. The advisor said this car and many new cars have a lot of drain on their batteries and can discharge them quickly. But, in my case, the battery was never fully charged up. He said I should keep the key fob far away from the car when not in use because modules will activate in it's presence and they take a long time to shut down, Adding to the extra drain on the battery. He said they've had several of these situations happen with the new cars. I'm also going to have to be careful if the car sits for a while to trickle charge it. So I'm going to have to take a greater responsibility in making sure the battery is always charged.

Ok, so at least there was nothing actually wrong with the car itself or it's components for which I'm very grateful. But, damn, it sure gave me one hell of a scare. So in this, I admit I was wrong in what I've said.

Let the flaming begin! I guess I deserve it....
If you drive your car any distance, the battery should be charged. I've never heard of the OEM Delco battery needing to be "deep charged." If you take frequent short drives, and/or start up and shut down the car often, the battery will not fully charge; but any reasonable time on the road should keep the battery fully charged. I really don't understand what the dealer was saying.
Old 10-02-2012, 09:08 AM
  #93  
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Thanks for all the advice...I did a preliminary check on the battery voltage last night after driving the Z. It was a very healthy 13vdc. I measured it again after I got up this morning and it was still a pretty good 12.87vdc.

As to the PAL link, I have the 1LZ base level so I don't think I have the home link or the PAL available (I'm assuming this is a factory installed option?).

I also did a Google search on dead batteries (I'm finding doing a search this way seems to reveal more useful information than doing the site's internal search) for the Z06 and found many have had a similar problem. Here is the link for those who might want to review this information:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...ery-drain.html

It seems these cars eat their batteries alive if any of the accessories are used for more than about 15-20 min without running the engine. Admittedly, I may have done the same inadvertently by keeping the ignition in RUN mode for too long trying to learn the option setups, which don't seem to operate in the Power Accessory mode. I did make sure the external lights were off because the car is in a garage, so the system wanted to automatically turn on the headlights, etc. Unfortunately, I guess I must've run down the battery without realizing it. I was able to start the engine after I was done to make sure it would, in fact, start. But, I may not have run it long enough to recharge the battery. And in so doing, the battery went flat over night. Perhaps because the current to start the engine wasn't readily replaced enough to recharge the battery.

I've also been reading up on what a battery tender or maintainer does. Some of these devices supposedly send pulses to the battery to help reduce sulfide buildup on the plates. This seems to be a pretty useful feature. There is a distinct difference between a trickle charger (which I have) and the maintainer/tender. I think I should get one to just keep in that nice cubby in the rear hatch area with a extension cord just in case I get into a situation where this happens again and I'm not at home.

I also agree that the 'deep charge' vs 'surface charge' is probably a lot of hooey. Sometimes the service advisors don't know that much and just try to say anything to keep the customer from blowing up in their face. And I checked the voltage on the battery with my key fob inside the house vs in the garage. I saw no drop in voltage. I think the 100' range is for when a button is pressed to activate the doors, horn, etc. But, I think the key fob has to be within about 3' of the car in order for it's proximity to be detected by the Z's security system. At least this is what I'm able to glean by doing these little experiments.

So I really appreciate all the info everyone's been giving me. I'm in learning mode. Owning a car like this takes more responsibility, I think, than owning a normal, run of the mill car. Another thing I have to be aware of is when my radar detector is plugged into the cigarette lighter, the lighter socket is not ignition switched. It's on all the time. So I have to be sure I turn off the detector when not in use.
Old 10-02-2012, 09:51 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by ruxvette
PS...don't use a trickle charger...use a battery tender or battery maintainer. Just sayin...
Old 10-02-2012, 10:32 AM
  #95  
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Push and hold the ignition OFF button for approx 10 seconds and the car will enter a mode(not sure what mode terminology is)thatt allows you to use all electronics(program DIC) without having ignition on(wont drain batt fast)

Also, what RD you have?
Maybe you can hardwire(very easy) or get a mirror tap for power.

Bert

Roll Tide!
Old 10-02-2012, 10:43 AM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by SHM
This is a very big deal for me. I've been buying japanese cars for the last 10 years because of this sort of thing. I'm wondering if GM still has that, '30 days and if you don't like it, just return it for a full refund.." thing still going on...This has me REALLY spooked! My luck, they're getting their batteries from China!
I just have to interject on this.....

In 2004 my father brand a brand new loaded up Accord EX V6. with 1192 miles on it, the cams in the front bank seized in the journals, snapping the timing chains/belts (I don't know which that engine has)and basically taking out the entire motor.

Honda was never able to determine what caused such a sudden catastrophic failure.

The idea that a bad car battery is indicative of build quality that's inferior to Japanese cars is utterly preposterous. That was a valid belief as recently as 5-10 years ago but American cars have come QUITE a long way since then.
Old 10-02-2012, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Tide Will Roll!
Push and hold the ignition OFF button for approx 10 seconds and the car will enter a mode(not sure what mode terminology is)thatt allows you to use all electronics(program DIC) without having ignition on(wont drain batt fast)

Also, what RD you have?
Maybe you can hardwire(very easy) or get a mirror tap for power.

Bert

Roll Tide!
I tried to use the power accessory mode to run through the options settings. But, they wouldn't work. This mode seems to operate only in the RUN mode. I did a single push without pressing the clutch. I probably activated a lot of systems by doing it that way, now that I think about it now...

I have a Valentine. I should probably get their hard wire kit and tap into the fuse block with a ignition switched spare fuse slot...

Originally Posted by JSB LS3
I just have to interject on this.....

In 2004 my father brand a brand new loaded up Accord EX V6. with 1192 miles on it, the cams in the front bank seized in the journals, snapping the timing chains/belts (I don't know which that engine has)and basically taking out the entire motor.

Honda was never able to determine what caused such a sudden catastrophic failure.

The idea that a bad car battery is indicative of build quality that's inferior to Japanese cars is utterly preposterous. That was a valid belief as recently as 5-10 years ago but American cars have come QUITE a long way since then.
A valid point. There is no doubt all car companies produce duds. And reliability as a industry average has improved a lot over the past decade. Which tends to raise all ships. There are some problematic cars...the Nissan 370 I've heard is very problem prone, for example...the failure rate is immense. I've also read about how Porsche went from being 2nd best to 2nd last in repairs.

Last edited by SHM; 10-02-2012 at 03:29 PM.

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Old 10-02-2012, 03:39 PM
  #98  
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Try this
Push and hold the off button(lower left) on the ignition for approx ten seconds.

Bert

Roll Tide!
Old 10-02-2012, 03:47 PM
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SHM
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OK..I never actually counted. I just waited. Might not've been long enough....

Last edited by SHM; 10-02-2012 at 04:06 PM.
Old 10-02-2012, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Don-Vette
Your under warranty let the dealer put a battery in it and check the charging system for you. Not very scary IMO
not scary at all..but frustrating

Clif


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