Changing oil.....my simple way of doing it.
09-12-2012, 10:31 AM
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Changing oil.....my simple way of doing it.
It seems there are a lot of oil threads that go around on here and I thought maybe I could give a different perspective on how you could do it. Remember, this is for a normal LS3, not a dry sump. This is long winded but I didnt want to leave anything to the imagination. I may do things a few times but I have a mild case of OCD. 
Granted, some of you are far better mechanics and much have a much greater knowledge of all things surrounding the internal combustion engine as well as Corvettes so this will not do a thing for you. Others who are new to the game may find this helpful.
Problems I see are that people have issues:
A. Jacking up the car.
B. Getting all the oil out if the front is higher.
C. No access to a lift making it more difficult.
D. Ramps scaping the bumpers.
Now, I am no mechanic by any means but I do tinker and do perform 95% of my own maintenance on all of my vehicles ranging from Gen I small blocks up through all four of my LS engine cars and even an L83 and an LT1 in the middle.
I did some searching and it looked to me like some people dont get all the old oil out because they jack the car up on the driver side, also, it seems some people had the same issue if the front of the car was higher than the rear (indicitive of using ramps). Since I dont have a lift in my garage, yet, I took another angle at it but still using my lo-pro jack.
I go about it in a few ways but this way in particular works best for my Corvette where as the other way worked best on my Z28 and my GTO.
I pull the car in to the garage in the right hand bay giving me more room for my body on the driver side. You can also do this outside if you dont have a garage but make sure the car is on level ground.
Also, I do not have pucks so I use my "home-made" rubber jacking pucks. I simply cut 4 round pieces from a dump trucks rear mud flap slightly larger than the jacks lift point. To get them to stick I together I used some GEOCEL in the middle. That stuff sticks to anything. I simply use these as buffer between the frame and the jack.
1. Block both rear tires, front and back as well as set the e-brake and leave the car in gear (mine is a 6-speed).
2. I use a lo-pro aluminum race jack and jack the car up from the driver side jacking point.
3. Once the car is high enough I place a wooden block under the driver side front tire and release the pressure from the jack.
At this point I am able to lay next to the car and simply reach under the to get to the drain plug and oil filter.
4. Place a low profile oil catch under the oil pan. What I find works best is a cat little box that I trimmed on all sides so it doesnt hit the car when I lower it down.
5. I loosen the drain plug to where I can use my fingers to get it off.
6. I loosen the oil filter to where I can use my fingers to get it off.
7. Remove the oil filter drain plug. I then allow it to drain as much as possible.
8. Remove the oil filter. I then allow that to drain as much as possible.
This is where people say they dont get all the fluid out, and they are correct. This is how I addres it.
9. I place the jack and buffer back to the front jacking point and lift the car.
10. I take the block of wood out from under the driver side tire.
11. Lower the car to the floor.
12. I go to the passenger side and place the jack and buffer under the front jacking point and lift the car just slightly. As the drain and filter are on the driver side I find that I a get more complete drain by doing this.
I do not place anything under the tire as I have lifted the car so slightly the tire is still on the ground. Also to note I will not be under the car on the passenger side so there is no fear of being crushed if the jack fails. Step 13 is the most important to any oil changing job.
13. Go to the fridge and crack a beer and allow the car to drain for just a 15-30 minutes.
Dont worry if your hands have oil/grease/dirt on them. The moisture from the outside of the can will act as a lubricant and actually assist in the removal of such grime from your hands. Try to avoid any and all "light" beers as it takes away from the manly aspect of changing your own oil. Its not a step but leave the beer can on the counter if you are single and if married put the can in the garbage.
14. I always look under the car to see if the oil is still dripping. Usually there will be a drop fall here or there but nothing major. The only way I have found that it really drains and doesnt drip (and sometimes it still will) is if I let it sit like this till the following morning.
15. Remove the jack from the passenger side.
16. Jack up the driver side using the front mounting point and the buffer and once again place the block of wood under the driver side front tire.
17. Lower the jack and place aside.
18. Pull out the oil catch and be sure not to slosh it or you can spill it and if you are married you will get yelled at and told "SEE! I told you to take it to a garage! My mother was right about you."
19. Wipe off the oil drain hole and put in place the cleaned oil drain plug till it is finger tight.
20. Fill new oil filter with fresh oil.
21. Use small amount of used oil to "wet" the seal on the filter.
22. Hand tighten the oil filter till the rubber washer meets the oil pan.
23. If you dont have a torque wrench tighten the drain plug to within reason. I set mine to 18 pounds (which is what I saw on-line) for the Corvette. I will say the factory torque wasnt that high and the filter was not that tight either.
24. If you dont have an oil filter wrench (you should get one) you can use your hand to get the filter plenty tight. But I get it to where I see the gasket compress. Once it wants to stop I turn it about 1/8th-1/4qrtr more. Make sure all tools are removed from under the car.
25. Wipe off any oil that may be on the pan or oil filter with a rag.
26. Put in place the jack and the buffer under the front mounting point of the driver side of the car and jack up till you can pull the block of wood out from under the tire.
27. Remove block from under tire.
28. Lower jack keeping feet and limbs away from the car.
I have seen people forget to put oil in so my advice is to LEAVE the blocks in front and behind the rear tires till you are completely finished.
29. Pop hood.
30. Open oil fill and place cap on the work bench where you wont lose it.
31. Use a funnel and put in the required amount of oil minus 3/4 quart.
I say this because you dont get ALL of the oil out and you can add it in a few minutes and the filter has a partial quart in it already.
32. Replace cap and allow a few minutes for the oil to settle.
33. Start the car and allow to run for 45 seconds. At this time I look under the car to check for oil leaks in case I forgot to tighten the plug and filter. Also, the oil will circulate at least one time in that 45 seconds and with synthetic most likely closer to two times. Again, this is for the base car with the smaller oil pan.
34. Remove fill plug and check the oil level. At this time add the proper amount for it to be within the full range. Usually its about 1/2 to 5/8th of a quart.
35. I start the car again and allow to run for about 2 minutes and shut it off.
36. I check my oil level again.
37. I use the jack and the buffer to once again lift the driver side of the car using the front jacking point.
38. Place the block of wood under the driver side front tire.
39. Remove jack and place to the side away from the car.
40. Re-check the torque on the drain plug.
41. Re-check that the oil filter is tight.
42. To see how much oil I got out I take the old oil and drain it in to the jug/jugs that I used to fill the car and get a measurement. Most of my LS engines didnt burn much if any oil but one did. It would use about 1 quart every 3k miles.
43. Clean all tools including the oil catch, funnel, dog bone, torque wrench and oil filter wrench and place back in/on the tool box/shelf and wash hands. Place jack in storage location.
44. Remove all the blocks from the front and rear of the back tires.
45. Back car out of the garage and go for a few mile drive.
46. Pull the car back in the garage and pop the hood.
47. Check the oil level again just to make sure.
48. Go to the fridge and get a beer.
Repeat step #48 as many times as possible. Lubrication is key to any and all things in general.
So there you have it. This is my method for changing my oil in the Corvette. I did it the same way with my GTO and without a lift I found it is the best way to get a complete drain of the engine oil. This also makes the use of ramps or making your own a dead issue.
Hope this helps. If not flame on.
Granted, some of you are far better mechanics and much have a much greater knowledge of all things surrounding the internal combustion engine as well as Corvettes so this will not do a thing for you. Others who are new to the game may find this helpful.
Problems I see are that people have issues:
A. Jacking up the car.
B. Getting all the oil out if the front is higher.
C. No access to a lift making it more difficult.
D. Ramps scaping the bumpers.
Now, I am no mechanic by any means but I do tinker and do perform 95% of my own maintenance on all of my vehicles ranging from Gen I small blocks up through all four of my LS engine cars and even an L83 and an LT1 in the middle.
I did some searching and it looked to me like some people dont get all the old oil out because they jack the car up on the driver side, also, it seems some people had the same issue if the front of the car was higher than the rear (indicitive of using ramps). Since I dont have a lift in my garage, yet, I took another angle at it but still using my lo-pro jack.
I go about it in a few ways but this way in particular works best for my Corvette where as the other way worked best on my Z28 and my GTO.
I pull the car in to the garage in the right hand bay giving me more room for my body on the driver side. You can also do this outside if you dont have a garage but make sure the car is on level ground.
Also, I do not have pucks so I use my "home-made" rubber jacking pucks. I simply cut 4 round pieces from a dump trucks rear mud flap slightly larger than the jacks lift point. To get them to stick I together I used some GEOCEL in the middle. That stuff sticks to anything. I simply use these as buffer between the frame and the jack.
1. Block both rear tires, front and back as well as set the e-brake and leave the car in gear (mine is a 6-speed).
2. I use a lo-pro aluminum race jack and jack the car up from the driver side jacking point.
3. Once the car is high enough I place a wooden block under the driver side front tire and release the pressure from the jack.
At this point I am able to lay next to the car and simply reach under the to get to the drain plug and oil filter.
4. Place a low profile oil catch under the oil pan. What I find works best is a cat little box that I trimmed on all sides so it doesnt hit the car when I lower it down.
5. I loosen the drain plug to where I can use my fingers to get it off.
6. I loosen the oil filter to where I can use my fingers to get it off.
7. Remove the oil filter drain plug. I then allow it to drain as much as possible.
8. Remove the oil filter. I then allow that to drain as much as possible.
This is where people say they dont get all the fluid out, and they are correct. This is how I addres it.
9. I place the jack and buffer back to the front jacking point and lift the car.
10. I take the block of wood out from under the driver side tire.
11. Lower the car to the floor.
12. I go to the passenger side and place the jack and buffer under the front jacking point and lift the car just slightly. As the drain and filter are on the driver side I find that I a get more complete drain by doing this.
I do not place anything under the tire as I have lifted the car so slightly the tire is still on the ground. Also to note I will not be under the car on the passenger side so there is no fear of being crushed if the jack fails. Step 13 is the most important to any oil changing job.
13. Go to the fridge and crack a beer and allow the car to drain for just a 15-30 minutes.
Dont worry if your hands have oil/grease/dirt on them. The moisture from the outside of the can will act as a lubricant and actually assist in the removal of such grime from your hands. Try to avoid any and all "light" beers as it takes away from the manly aspect of changing your own oil. Its not a step but leave the beer can on the counter if you are single and if married put the can in the garbage.
14. I always look under the car to see if the oil is still dripping. Usually there will be a drop fall here or there but nothing major. The only way I have found that it really drains and doesnt drip (and sometimes it still will) is if I let it sit like this till the following morning.
15. Remove the jack from the passenger side.
16. Jack up the driver side using the front mounting point and the buffer and once again place the block of wood under the driver side front tire.
17. Lower the jack and place aside.
18. Pull out the oil catch and be sure not to slosh it or you can spill it and if you are married you will get yelled at and told "SEE! I told you to take it to a garage! My mother was right about you."
19. Wipe off the oil drain hole and put in place the cleaned oil drain plug till it is finger tight.
20. Fill new oil filter with fresh oil.
21. Use small amount of used oil to "wet" the seal on the filter.
22. Hand tighten the oil filter till the rubber washer meets the oil pan.
23. If you dont have a torque wrench tighten the drain plug to within reason. I set mine to 18 pounds (which is what I saw on-line) for the Corvette. I will say the factory torque wasnt that high and the filter was not that tight either.
24. If you dont have an oil filter wrench (you should get one) you can use your hand to get the filter plenty tight. But I get it to where I see the gasket compress. Once it wants to stop I turn it about 1/8th-1/4qrtr more. Make sure all tools are removed from under the car.
25. Wipe off any oil that may be on the pan or oil filter with a rag.
26. Put in place the jack and the buffer under the front mounting point of the driver side of the car and jack up till you can pull the block of wood out from under the tire.
27. Remove block from under tire.
28. Lower jack keeping feet and limbs away from the car.
I have seen people forget to put oil in so my advice is to LEAVE the blocks in front and behind the rear tires till you are completely finished.
29. Pop hood.
30. Open oil fill and place cap on the work bench where you wont lose it.
31. Use a funnel and put in the required amount of oil minus 3/4 quart.
I say this because you dont get ALL of the oil out and you can add it in a few minutes and the filter has a partial quart in it already.
32. Replace cap and allow a few minutes for the oil to settle.
33. Start the car and allow to run for 45 seconds. At this time I look under the car to check for oil leaks in case I forgot to tighten the plug and filter. Also, the oil will circulate at least one time in that 45 seconds and with synthetic most likely closer to two times. Again, this is for the base car with the smaller oil pan.
34. Remove fill plug and check the oil level. At this time add the proper amount for it to be within the full range. Usually its about 1/2 to 5/8th of a quart.
35. I start the car again and allow to run for about 2 minutes and shut it off.
36. I check my oil level again.
37. I use the jack and the buffer to once again lift the driver side of the car using the front jacking point.
38. Place the block of wood under the driver side front tire.
39. Remove jack and place to the side away from the car.
40. Re-check the torque on the drain plug.
41. Re-check that the oil filter is tight.
42. To see how much oil I got out I take the old oil and drain it in to the jug/jugs that I used to fill the car and get a measurement. Most of my LS engines didnt burn much if any oil but one did. It would use about 1 quart every 3k miles.
43. Clean all tools including the oil catch, funnel, dog bone, torque wrench and oil filter wrench and place back in/on the tool box/shelf and wash hands. Place jack in storage location.
44. Remove all the blocks from the front and rear of the back tires.
45. Back car out of the garage and go for a few mile drive.
46. Pull the car back in the garage and pop the hood.
47. Check the oil level again just to make sure.
48. Go to the fridge and get a beer.
Repeat step #48 as many times as possible. Lubrication is key to any and all things in general.
So there you have it. This is my method for changing my oil in the Corvette. I did it the same way with my GTO and without a lift I found it is the best way to get a complete drain of the engine oil. This also makes the use of ramps or making your own a dead issue.
Hope this helps. If not flame on.
Last edited by TLS_Addict; 09-12-2012 at 10:36 AM.
09-12-2012, 10:33 AM
#2
Instructor
Member Since: Dec 2011
Location: Warner Robins Ga
Posts: 119
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I just do step 48....over and over! Then say to heck with it and go to bed!
It seems there are a lot of oil threads that go around on here and I thought maybe I could give a different perspective on how you could do it. Remember, this is for a normal LS3, not a dry sump. This is long winded but I didnt want to leave anything to the imagination. I may do things a few times but I have a mild case of OCD.
Granted, some of you are far better mechanics and much have a much greater knowledge of all things surrounding the internal combustion engine as well as Corvettes so this will not do a thing for you. Others who are new to the game may find this helpful.
Problems I see are that people have issues:
A. Jacking up the car.
B. Getting all the oil out if the front is higher.
C. No access to a lift making it more difficult.
D. Ramps scaping the bumpers.
Now, I am no mechanic by any means but I do tinker and do perform 95% of my own maintenance on all of my vehicles ranging from Gen I small blocks up through all four of my LS engine cars and even an L83 and an LT1 in the middle.
I did some searching and it looked to me like some people dont get all the old oil out because they jack the car up on the driver side, also, it seems some people had the same issue if the front of the car was higher than the rear (indicitive of using ramps). Since I dont have a lift in my garage, yet, I took another angle at it but still using my lo-pro jack.
I go about it in a few ways but this way in particular works best for my Corvette where as the other way worked best on my Z28 and my GTO.
I pull the car in to the garage in the right hand bay giving me more room for my body on the driver side. You can also do this outside if you dont have a garage but make sure the car is on level ground.
Also, I do not have pucks so I use my "home-made" rubber jacking pucks. I simply cut 4 round pieces from a dump trucks rear mud flap slightly larger than the jacks lift point. To get them to stick I together I used some GEOCEL in the middle. That stuff sticks to anything. I simply use these as buffer between the frame and the jack.
1. Block both rear tires, front and back as well as set the e-brake and leave the car in gear (mine is a 6-spee).
2. I use a lo-pro aluminum race jack and jack the car up from the driver side jacking point.
3. Once the car is high enough I place a wooden block under the driver side front tire and release the pressure from the jack.
At this point I am able to lay next to the car and simply reach under the to get to the drain plug and oil filter.
4. Place a low profile oil catch under the oil pan. What I find works best is a cat little box that I trimmed on all sides so it doesnt hit the car when I lower it down.
5. I loosen the drain plug to where I can use my fingers to get it off.
6. I loosen the oil filter to where I can use my fingers to get it off.
7. Remove the oil filter drain plug. I then allow it to drain as much as possible.
8. Remove the oil filter. I then allow that to drain as much as possible.
This is where people say they dont get all the fluid out, and they are correct. This is how I addres it.
9. I place the jack and buffer back to the front jacking point and lift the car.
10. I take the block of wood out from under the driver side tire.
11. Lower the car to the floor.
12. I go to the passenger side and place the jack and buffer under the front jacking point and lift the car just slightly. As the drain and filter are on the driver side I find that I a get more complete drain by doing this.
I do not place anything under the tire as I have lifted the car so slightly the tire is still on the ground. Also to note I will not be under the car on the passenger side so there is no fear of being crushed if the jack fails. Step 13 is the most important to any oil changing job.
13. Go to the fridge and crack a beer and allow the car to drain for just a 15-30 minutes.
Dont worry if your hands have oil/grease/dirt on them. The moisture from the outside of the can will act as a lubricant and actually assist in the removal of such grime from your hands. Try to avoid any and all "light" beers as it takes away from the manly aspect of changing your own oil. Its not a step but leave the beer can on the counter if you are single and if married put the can in the garbage.
14. I always look under the car to see if the oil is still dripping. Usually there will be a drop fall here or there but nothing major. The only way I have found that it really drains and doesnt drip (and sometimes it still will) is if I let it sit like this till the following morning.
15. Remove the jack from the passenger side.
16. Jack up the driver side using the front mounting point and the buffer and once again place the block of wood under the driver side front tire.
17. Lower the jack and place aside.
18. Pull out the oil catch and be sure not to slosh it or you can spill it and if you are married you will get yelled at and told "SEE! I told you to take it to a garage! My mother was right about you."
19. Wipe off the oil drain hole and put in place the cleaned oil drain plug till it is finger tight.
20. Fill new oil filter with fresh oil.
21. Use small amount of used oil to "wet" the seal on the filter.
22. Hand tighten the oil filter till the rubber washer meets the oil pan.
23. If you dont have a torque wrench tighten to within reason. I set mine to 18 pounds (which is what I saw on-line) for the Corvette. I will say the factory torque wasnt that high and the filter was not that tight either.
24. If you dont have an oil filter wrench (you should get one) you can use your hand to get the filter plenty tight. But I get it to where I see the gasket compress. Once it wants to stop I turn it about 1/8th-1/4qrtr more. Make sure all tools are removed from under the car.
25. Wipe off any oil that may be on the pan or oil filter with a rag.
26. Put in place the jack and the buffer under the front mounting point of the driver side of the car and jack up till you can pull the block of wood out from under the tire.
27. Remove block from under tire.
28. Lower jack keeping feet and limbs away from the car.
I have seen people forget to put oil in so my advice is to LEAVE the blocks in front and behind the rear tires till you are completely finished.
29. Pop hood.
30. Open oil fill and place cap on the work bench where you wont lose it.
31. Use a funnel and put in the required amount of oil minus 3/4 quart.
I say this because you dont get ALL of the oil out and you can add it in a few minutes and the filter has a partial quart in it already.
32. Replace cap and allow a few minutes for the oil to settle.
33. Start the car and allow to run for 45 seconds. At this time I look under the car to check for oil leaks in case I forgot to tighten the plug and filter. Also, the oil will circulate at least one time in that 45 seconds and with synthetic most likely closer to two times. Again, this is for the base car with the smaller oil pan.
34. Remove fill plug and check the oil level. At this time add the proper amount for it to be within the full range. Usually its about 1/2 to 5/8th of a quart.
35. I start the car again and allow to run for about 2 minutes and shut it off.
36. I check my oil level again.
37. I use the jack and the buffer to once again lift the driver side of the car using the front jacking point.
38. Place the block of wood under the driver side front tire.
39. Remove jack and place to the side away from the car.
40. Re-check the torque on the drain plug.
41. Re-check that the oil filter is tight.
42. To see how much oil I got out I take the old oil and drain it in to the jug/jugs that I used to fill the car and get a measurement. Most of my LS engines didnt burn much if any oil but one did. It would use about 1 quart every 3k miles.
43. Clean all tools including the oil catch, funnel, dog bone, torque wrench and oil filter wrench and place back in/on the tool box/shelf and wash hands. Place jack in storage location.
44. Remove all the blocks from the front and rear of the back tires.
45. Back car out of the garage and go for a few mile drive.
46. Pull the car back in the garage and pop the hood.
47. Check the oil level again just to make sure.
48. Go to the fridge and get a beer.
Repeat step #48 as many times as possible. Lubrication is key to any and all things in general.
So there you have it. This is my method for changing my oil in the Corvette. I did it the same way with my GTO and without a lift I found it is the best way to get a complete drain of the engine oil. This also makes the use of ramps or making your own a dead issue.
Hope this helps. If not flame on.
Granted, some of you are far better mechanics and much have a much greater knowledge of all things surrounding the internal combustion engine as well as Corvettes so this will not do a thing for you. Others who are new to the game may find this helpful.
Problems I see are that people have issues:
A. Jacking up the car.
B. Getting all the oil out if the front is higher.
C. No access to a lift making it more difficult.
D. Ramps scaping the bumpers.
Now, I am no mechanic by any means but I do tinker and do perform 95% of my own maintenance on all of my vehicles ranging from Gen I small blocks up through all four of my LS engine cars and even an L83 and an LT1 in the middle.
I did some searching and it looked to me like some people dont get all the old oil out because they jack the car up on the driver side, also, it seems some people had the same issue if the front of the car was higher than the rear (indicitive of using ramps). Since I dont have a lift in my garage, yet, I took another angle at it but still using my lo-pro jack.
I go about it in a few ways but this way in particular works best for my Corvette where as the other way worked best on my Z28 and my GTO.
I pull the car in to the garage in the right hand bay giving me more room for my body on the driver side. You can also do this outside if you dont have a garage but make sure the car is on level ground.
Also, I do not have pucks so I use my "home-made" rubber jacking pucks. I simply cut 4 round pieces from a dump trucks rear mud flap slightly larger than the jacks lift point. To get them to stick I together I used some GEOCEL in the middle. That stuff sticks to anything. I simply use these as buffer between the frame and the jack.
1. Block both rear tires, front and back as well as set the e-brake and leave the car in gear (mine is a 6-spee).
2. I use a lo-pro aluminum race jack and jack the car up from the driver side jacking point.
3. Once the car is high enough I place a wooden block under the driver side front tire and release the pressure from the jack.
At this point I am able to lay next to the car and simply reach under the to get to the drain plug and oil filter.
4. Place a low profile oil catch under the oil pan. What I find works best is a cat little box that I trimmed on all sides so it doesnt hit the car when I lower it down.
5. I loosen the drain plug to where I can use my fingers to get it off.
6. I loosen the oil filter to where I can use my fingers to get it off.
7. Remove the oil filter drain plug. I then allow it to drain as much as possible.
8. Remove the oil filter. I then allow that to drain as much as possible.
This is where people say they dont get all the fluid out, and they are correct. This is how I addres it.
9. I place the jack and buffer back to the front jacking point and lift the car.
10. I take the block of wood out from under the driver side tire.
11. Lower the car to the floor.
12. I go to the passenger side and place the jack and buffer under the front jacking point and lift the car just slightly. As the drain and filter are on the driver side I find that I a get more complete drain by doing this.
I do not place anything under the tire as I have lifted the car so slightly the tire is still on the ground. Also to note I will not be under the car on the passenger side so there is no fear of being crushed if the jack fails. Step 13 is the most important to any oil changing job.
13. Go to the fridge and crack a beer and allow the car to drain for just a 15-30 minutes.
Dont worry if your hands have oil/grease/dirt on them. The moisture from the outside of the can will act as a lubricant and actually assist in the removal of such grime from your hands. Try to avoid any and all "light" beers as it takes away from the manly aspect of changing your own oil. Its not a step but leave the beer can on the counter if you are single and if married put the can in the garbage.
14. I always look under the car to see if the oil is still dripping. Usually there will be a drop fall here or there but nothing major. The only way I have found that it really drains and doesnt drip (and sometimes it still will) is if I let it sit like this till the following morning.
15. Remove the jack from the passenger side.
16. Jack up the driver side using the front mounting point and the buffer and once again place the block of wood under the driver side front tire.
17. Lower the jack and place aside.
18. Pull out the oil catch and be sure not to slosh it or you can spill it and if you are married you will get yelled at and told "SEE! I told you to take it to a garage! My mother was right about you."
19. Wipe off the oil drain hole and put in place the cleaned oil drain plug till it is finger tight.
20. Fill new oil filter with fresh oil.
21. Use small amount of used oil to "wet" the seal on the filter.
22. Hand tighten the oil filter till the rubber washer meets the oil pan.
23. If you dont have a torque wrench tighten to within reason. I set mine to 18 pounds (which is what I saw on-line) for the Corvette. I will say the factory torque wasnt that high and the filter was not that tight either.
24. If you dont have an oil filter wrench (you should get one) you can use your hand to get the filter plenty tight. But I get it to where I see the gasket compress. Once it wants to stop I turn it about 1/8th-1/4qrtr more. Make sure all tools are removed from under the car.
25. Wipe off any oil that may be on the pan or oil filter with a rag.
26. Put in place the jack and the buffer under the front mounting point of the driver side of the car and jack up till you can pull the block of wood out from under the tire.
27. Remove block from under tire.
28. Lower jack keeping feet and limbs away from the car.
I have seen people forget to put oil in so my advice is to LEAVE the blocks in front and behind the rear tires till you are completely finished.
29. Pop hood.
30. Open oil fill and place cap on the work bench where you wont lose it.
31. Use a funnel and put in the required amount of oil minus 3/4 quart.
I say this because you dont get ALL of the oil out and you can add it in a few minutes and the filter has a partial quart in it already.
32. Replace cap and allow a few minutes for the oil to settle.
33. Start the car and allow to run for 45 seconds. At this time I look under the car to check for oil leaks in case I forgot to tighten the plug and filter. Also, the oil will circulate at least one time in that 45 seconds and with synthetic most likely closer to two times. Again, this is for the base car with the smaller oil pan.
34. Remove fill plug and check the oil level. At this time add the proper amount for it to be within the full range. Usually its about 1/2 to 5/8th of a quart.
35. I start the car again and allow to run for about 2 minutes and shut it off.
36. I check my oil level again.
37. I use the jack and the buffer to once again lift the driver side of the car using the front jacking point.
38. Place the block of wood under the driver side front tire.
39. Remove jack and place to the side away from the car.
40. Re-check the torque on the drain plug.
41. Re-check that the oil filter is tight.
42. To see how much oil I got out I take the old oil and drain it in to the jug/jugs that I used to fill the car and get a measurement. Most of my LS engines didnt burn much if any oil but one did. It would use about 1 quart every 3k miles.
43. Clean all tools including the oil catch, funnel, dog bone, torque wrench and oil filter wrench and place back in/on the tool box/shelf and wash hands. Place jack in storage location.
44. Remove all the blocks from the front and rear of the back tires.
45. Back car out of the garage and go for a few mile drive.
46. Pull the car back in the garage and pop the hood.
47. Check the oil level again just to make sure.
48. Go to the fridge and get a beer.
Repeat step #48 as many times as possible. Lubrication is key to any and all things in general.
So there you have it. This is my method for changing my oil in the Corvette. I did it the same way with my GTO and without a lift I found it is the best way to get a complete drain of the engine oil. This also makes the use of ramps or making your own a dead issue.
Hope this helps. If not flame on.
09-12-2012, 10:40 AM
#4
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I just figured since I see threads all the time about changing oil with ramps, jacks, not getting a complete drain...etc that I would show how I address those same issues. Since I am a common person without a lift at this time I think its a pretty easy way to do it.
09-12-2012, 10:41 AM
#5
Team Owner
Thread Starter
09-12-2012, 10:43 AM
#6
Goon Squad King of Battle
Member Since: May 2008
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13x3- '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
I've got 131 employees as of this morning. The trick is putting in the people you "like" as a buffer.
what kind of jackets?
09-12-2012, 11:08 AM
#7
Team Owner
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C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Good luck to anyone who follows these steps to the letter!!
Step 37 puts the drivers tire back up on blocks. Here is where the beer kicked in....you forgot to jack the car up again and remove the block!!
Gonna be a rough bump when you back out.
Step 37 puts the drivers tire back up on blocks. Here is where the beer kicked in....you forgot to jack the car up again and remove the block!!
Gonna be a rough bump when you back out.
09-12-2012, 11:16 AM
#9
Melting Slicks
Why so annal about getting ALL of the oil out? The little that stays in is no big deal and not even worth the effort to get it out. Heck, on LT5's with the 12qt capacity you were lucky to get 8 qts. out, leaving at least 4 in there. I never ever heard of an LT5 having any issues related to not changing out nearly 40% of the old oil. Why make a mtn out of nothing unless like I said, you are merely that annal!
09-12-2012, 11:18 AM
#10
Goon Squad King of Battle
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13x3- '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Why so annal about getting ALL of the oil out? The little that stays in is no big deal and not even worth the effort to get it out. Heck, on LT5's with the 12qt capacity you were lucky to get 8 qts. out, leaving at least 4 in there. I never ever heard of an LT5 having any issues related to not changing out nearly 40% of the old oil. Why make a mtn out of nothing unless like I said, you are merely that annal!
09-12-2012, 11:23 AM
#11
Team Owner
Wow, I just drive my car onto one of my lifts to change the oil. That's the simple way. I think you need to speed up your purchase of a 4-post lift.
09-12-2012, 11:56 AM
#14
I bought the race ramps. They make it easy to under the car. I get ~10 quarts out of the car plus what is in the oil filter. I thought about jacking up the rear and getting things exactly level but it just seemed **** in the extream.
09-12-2012, 12:04 PM
#15
Pro
If it works for you, no need to change. Sounds like you enjoy the ritual. Mine is a little more abbreviated.
1. Start the car, allow to run for a couple of minutes to warm the oil.
2. Drive up onto my race ramps and shut off.
3. Pop the hood, go underneath with drain pan. Loosen drain plug, unscrew and let oil drain out.
4. Open the oil fill cap to allow the air to go thru.
5. Go underneath, remove oil filter and let that drain.
6. 5 min later lube o ring seal, screw new oil filter in. Hand tight, then a little more.
7. Screw in drain plug, tighten by feel.
8. Put in new Mobil 1
9. Start the car, check for leaks.
10. Back off ramps, check and top off oil. Go for a drive, resetting oil life indicator.
1. Start the car, allow to run for a couple of minutes to warm the oil.
2. Drive up onto my race ramps and shut off.
3. Pop the hood, go underneath with drain pan. Loosen drain plug, unscrew and let oil drain out.
4. Open the oil fill cap to allow the air to go thru.
5. Go underneath, remove oil filter and let that drain.
6. 5 min later lube o ring seal, screw new oil filter in. Hand tight, then a little more.
7. Screw in drain plug, tighten by feel.
8. Put in new Mobil 1
9. Start the car, check for leaks.
10. Back off ramps, check and top off oil. Go for a drive, resetting oil life indicator.
09-12-2012, 12:18 PM
#16
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Why so annal about getting ALL of the oil out? The little that stays in is no big deal and not even worth the effort to get it out. Heck, on LT5's with the 12qt capacity you were lucky to get 8 qts. out, leaving at least 4 in there. I never ever heard of an LT5 having any issues related to not changing out nearly 40% of the old oil. Why make a mtn out of nothing unless like I said, you are merely that annal!
With the smaller capacity oil pan I think its best to get our as much as you can. With running that much more oil I wouldnt think its as much of a big deal. With the amount in the pan of the base car you would have to leave in close to 3 quarts for it to equal about 40%.
09-12-2012, 12:19 PM
#17
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Very much so.A friend of mine has a garage that is going out of business. He has a 3 year old one in there that I have used.
09-12-2012, 12:20 PM
#18
Team Owner
Thread Starter
The brewery has a new saison and an Oktoberfest (that is how they spell it) that I plan to try this evening.
I hit up the Selins Grove Brewery in Selins Grove this past Saturday....it was fantastic!
I have a Mr. Beer kit at home I am going to try my hand it here pretty quick.
09-12-2012, 12:31 PM
#19
CF Senior Member
Member Since: Feb 2006
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It sounds a bit labor intensive when you list the steps in detail but as long as the job is done right it's all good. The only thing I might add to help insure more complete draining of the old oil is to warm the engine up a bit before draining the oil. I apologize if this step was there and I missed it. Good job! 
09-12-2012, 01:12 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
After purchasing my C6 and joining this forum I read
all the silly 'change oil' threads. I have to admit it had
me worried. I purchased BMW pucks - which are great BTW -
and I prepared myself with the diagram of jacking points
and do's and don'ts associated with jacking and with oil change in
general. I bought some Castrol Titanium synthetic and a OEM filter
and headed to the car.
I took one look under the car said WTF? and went and got my 3 foot
extension. 5/8 socket. plastic oil filter wrench, pancake drain pan.
I did not jack up the car - I used the 3 foot extension to remove the
drain plug from the side - let it drop in the pan - after full drain
replaced the plug - removed the filter which was hanging right there - let all that drain for a while - wiped the filter surface on the motor
clean- screwed in new filter - filled with oil - cleanup with Simple
Green - check for leaks. 20 minute job.
all the silly 'change oil' threads. I have to admit it had
me worried. I purchased BMW pucks - which are great BTW -
and I prepared myself with the diagram of jacking points
and do's and don'ts associated with jacking and with oil change in
general. I bought some Castrol Titanium synthetic and a OEM filter
and headed to the car.
I took one look under the car said WTF? and went and got my 3 foot
extension. 5/8 socket. plastic oil filter wrench, pancake drain pan.
I did not jack up the car - I used the 3 foot extension to remove the
drain plug from the side - let it drop in the pan - after full drain
replaced the plug - removed the filter which was hanging right there - let all that drain for a while - wiped the filter surface on the motor
clean- screwed in new filter - filled with oil - cleanup with Simple
Green - check for leaks. 20 minute job.