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Used car buyers must/should do's....

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Old 09-03-2012, 04:57 PM
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vig1116
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Default Used car buyers must/should do's....

So, for all the corvette buyers like me that buy used, what are the things that should be done to the car to make sure it's proper? (not talking mods here)

So far i've changed all 3 air filters (including cabin), changed the oil and filter to mobil one extended performance and new tires. I also put Lucas gas treatment in the tank to clean things up.

Anything else that should be done cause it's a used car?

Edit: The car has 26,000 miles on it.

Edit 2: I have a 2006 A6 base C6 with 3LT package.

Last edited by vig1116; 09-04-2012 at 09:29 PM.
Old 09-03-2012, 11:32 PM
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CO Lightfoot
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Wheel alignment!

You probably did it when you bought the new tires.

Anyway, it might be worthwhile to fine-tune the alignment: http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-alignment.pdf
Old 09-03-2012, 11:40 PM
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R&L's C6
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Change coolant if it's over five years old and not a bad idea to change out the brake fluid.

If you have a manual transmission, change out the clutch fluid with the Ranger method till it's clear.

Last edited by R&L's C6; 09-04-2012 at 07:57 AM.
Old 09-03-2012, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by R&L's C6
Change coolant if it's over five years old and not a bad idea to change out the brake fluid.
I second the brake fluid change.
Old 09-04-2012, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by CO Lightfoot
Wheel alignment!

You probably did it when you bought the new tires.

Anyway, it might be worthwhile to fine-tune the alignment: http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-alignment.pdf
Thanks for the input guys!! I think i may do both the coolant and brake fluid change over the winter just cause i have no idea when it was done, if ever! As far as the alignment, i got it last week after the dealer put the new tires they ordered for me when i bought car. I went to an alignment shop with the PFADT specs and they talked me out of it cause i said a big concern was tire wear on the inside too much like on the old tires.... Well, the PFADT specs are .7-.9 camber and they put it to .3 and i HATE it!!! The car follows every uneven part on the road and it is terrible! I may go back and see if they'll fix it for a small fee compared to a full alignment.... Anyway, thanks for the input!!
Old 09-04-2012, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by vig1116
Thanks for the input guys!! I think i may do both the coolant and brake fluid change over the winter just cause i have no idea when it was done, if ever! As far as the alignment, i got it last week after the dealer put the new tires they ordered for me when i bought car. I went to an alignment shop with the PFADT specs and they talked me out of it cause i said a big concern was tire wear on the inside too much like on the old tires.... Well, the PFADT specs are .7-.9 camber and they put it to .3 and i HATE it!!! The car follows every uneven part on the road and it is terrible! I may go back and see if they'll fix it for a small fee compared to a full alignment.... Anyway, thanks for the input!!
In our experience it's really not Camber that kills tires quickly, it's Toe. That's why we have absolutely no reservations about -.7 to -.9 degrees negative camber on a street car.

Your alignment is only as good as the technician performing the work. If you have anyone in your area familiar with working on performance or race vehicles we strongly suggest taking your car there.
Old 09-04-2012, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Pfadt Racing
In our experience it's really not Camber that kills tires quickly, it's Toe. That's why we have absolutely no reservations about -.7 to -.9 degrees negative camber on a street car.

Your alignment is only as good as the technician performing the work. If you have anyone in your area familiar with working on performance or race vehicles we strongly suggest taking your car there.
thank you. I definitely took it to a good place but it was my error for saying too much about my concern about inside tire wear so he suggested less camber and i agreed. Ill drive it for a little while longer and see what i think then. If i still hate it ill get the true PFADT specs done...

PS he also took into account that i dont do any race/track options its just for my street pleasure....
Old 09-04-2012, 04:41 PM
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Change the oil in the FLUX CAPACITOR! You want to get the full 21 gigawatts out of it.

Old 09-04-2012, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by vig1116
PS he also took into account that i dont do any race/track options its just for my street pleasure....
I'd recommend you go to Thrust Performance on Rte 9 and I think it's Sayreville (southbound side of Rte 9). The owners are Vette people and even give sponsorship to the Corvette Challenge racing series at Etown. They do good work and take time to make both you and your car happy..
Old 09-04-2012, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mundo
Change the oil in the FLUX CAPACITOR! You want to get the full 21 gigawatts out of it.

i have an '06 base coupe. That was the only year with the upgraded flux that runs on disposal by-products, no oil needed..... thx though
Old 09-04-2012, 05:54 PM
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good of you to finally post what year it is, an '06. the coolant sched I think is 5/100K, brakes some say every two years. suggest you read up on here in both gen and tech on procedures. brakes I've read of squishy, and coolant I've read of virtually zero problems.

I suggest if you don't use much during winter, get a batt. "maintainer" and use it a lot, continuously. some on here, myself incl., use it during the summer as well if we're not going to drive it for a few days or more.

you may want to go thru and actually post in the first post what's on the car, like man trans, 3LT, 1LT, auto trans, etc. so people don't have to guess.
Old 09-04-2012, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Red98C5
I'd recommend you go to Thrust Performance on Rte 9 and I think it's Sayreville (southbound side of Rte 9). The owners are Vette people and even give sponsorship to the Corvette Challenge racing series at Etown. They do good work and take time to make both you and your car happy..
thx red, wish i knew about them sooner cause im right near there. I'll have to check them out!!
Old 09-04-2012, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by AORoads
good of you to finally post what year it is, an '06. the coolant sched I think is 5/100K, brakes some say every two years. suggest you read up on here in both gen and tech on procedures. brakes I've read of squishy, and coolant I've read of virtually zero problems.

I suggest if you don't use much during winter, get a batt. "maintainer" and use it a lot, continuously. some on here, myself incl., use it during the summer as well if we're not going to drive it for a few days or more.

you may want to go thru and actually post in the first post what's on the car, like man trans, 3LT, 1LT, auto trans, etc. so people don't have to guess.
Thx, didnt think of posting that sooner... I was actually thinking about getting the ctek 3300 for the winter and now that you confirmed its a good idea ill get that soon. Thx.
Old 09-04-2012, 07:47 PM
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Familiarize yourself with how to open the doors if the battery is dead. And, as part of doing that, check to make sure your key to manually open the rear hatch works (if it doesn't there is plenty of info on this forum on how to fix it).
Old 09-04-2012, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by vig1116
Thx, didnt think of posting that sooner... I was actually thinking about getting the ctek 3300 for the winter and now that you confirmed its a good idea ill get that soon. Thx.
thx for the above posts on equipment. as to the ctek, I switched from a simpler Schumacher to the ctek this past winter. found an interesting thing that may be in the instructions (but I didn't see it). every time you disconnect it, pull it out, turn off current to it, it needs to be reset. otherwise, it just shows that it's plugged in, not charging/maintaining a charge. the set/reset button is the big/bigger one on the left. we have had one person say his maintainer didn't work and his car went dead. the actual reason was as above--he didn't know to reset it each time after reconnecting to the car. neither did I until I noticed it was in standby mode.
Old 09-04-2012, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by R&L's C6
Change coolant if it's over five years old and not a bad idea to change out the brake fluid.

If you have a manual transmission, change out the clutch fluid with the Ranger method till it's clear.
He said he an A6.
Old 09-04-2012, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by AORoads
thx for the above posts on equipment. as to the ctek, I switched from a simpler Schumacher to the ctek this past winter. found an interesting thing that may be in the instructions (but I didn't see it). every time you disconnect it, pull it out, turn off current to it, it needs to be reset. otherwise, it just shows that it's plugged in, not charging/maintaining a charge. the set/reset button is the big/bigger one on the left. we have had one person say his maintainer didn't work and his car went dead. the actual reason was as above--he didn't know to reset it each time after reconnecting to the car. neither did I until I noticed it was in standby mode.
thanks for that, ive been known to skip reading the instructions once or twice.... lol

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Old 09-04-2012, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by speedlink
He said he an A6.
i actually just edited that in on the advice of someone else. I'll change it to edit instead of PS....
Old 09-04-2012, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by v26278
Familiarize yourself with how to open the doors if the battery is dead. And, as part of doing that, check to make sure your key to manually open the rear hatch works (if it doesn't there is plenty of info on this forum on how to fix it).
Not a bad idea! I know where the 3 emergency release "pulls" are and the key hole but i never thought of trying to make sure they all work!! I don't want to check it when i need it to find it doesn't work, i'll be doing that tonight.
Old 09-04-2012, 09:40 PM
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I'd change the batteries in the FOBs. They're dirt cheap and readily available.


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