300Z51

I've been in the market for a while now, trying to find a more aggressive (read: more flush w/fender) wheel package for my Z51 C6 coupe. I know that the popular opinion is that spacers are not a good idea, but if you must use them, at least use hubcentric ones. That being said I pretty much decided on choosing a wheel with a more aggressive offset...about 14mm less offset than stock in the rear. But in my search, one of my favorite wheels are the Z06 Spyder wheels. Only problem is that they only come in stock C6 offsets. So as I thought more and more about spacers for the rear, it occurred to me that spacers/adapters in theory should (may?) have the same effect as the lower offset wheel. Either way, the wheel (or spacer) is pushing the wheel further from the hub. Is my theory correct, or is it indeed safer to go with the lower offset wheel. I know that most aftermarket wheels use the lower offsets for the more aggressive look, so I'm guessing there is no problem in that. Also, with either option, wouldn't I need to use longer studs to make sure the wheel is torqued properly? Thanks for the help.

A Man and his Vette

jozGS4

I think the rule of thumb is any spacer over 10mm should be used with longer studs. You can buy longer studs like the ARPs and have them pressed into your wheel hubs or you can buy spacers that have the longer studs with them. H&R, Eibach, Adaptec Speedware/Motorsport Tech, etc. make hub-centric spacers for the Vette with the studs and hardware necessary.
Adaptec Speedware/Motorsport Tech are/were forum vendors (not sure anymore) and can make custom spacers whatever size you need.
They have a thread on the forum somewhere. Good luck.

Knob Jockey

TommyV

I'm using Pfadt 1/4 in. (6.3mm) spacers on stock wheels with 255 front and 305 rears. It brings the tires flush with the fenders. No rubbing or other problems. I'm also using Gorilla ET lug nuts.

Thrash

Great topic, more comments please ...

RACE U

I used these guys and the quality of the product was excellent. They provided lugs that did not require installing new studs.

I dont know how to post a picture here, but I could send you some pictures on how mine (purchased the chrome spyder wheels for my base c6) turned out. I hated the way the wheels looked without the spacers.

I dont have the specs at my fingertips, but I could send you the offsets and lugs used.

B,

4GS7

With a lower offset wheel, you don't need longer studs. The lug holes are deeper in the wheel. I really don't like using spacers, but if you must go over 10mm, absolutely get longer, stronger studs.

And yes, the spacer will give you the same effect as a lower offset wheel.

300Z51

Thanks for all the input. It seems that the prevailing opinion is that spacers are ok as long as they are hub centric, well built billet, and if you go over about 3/8" (or about 10mm), you must use longer lugs. I've also done some google searches on the topic which led me to some other car forums (Porsche, BMW, etc.) and they seem to have about the same opinions. I also had a chance to visit some wheel specialists who again had the same opinions. If I do ultimately choose the wheels which require the spacers, I feel a lot more comfortable now given the info I've received.

ddanis60

Randy at DRM got my 07 z all set up with 3/8" spacers at all 4 corners.. along with 1/2" longer studs. theyre actually only 1/4" longer but since the stock threads stops 1/4" from the end.. the new studs have 1/2" more threads. either way.. i think the rule of thumb is you need the lugnut to have at least 7 or 8 complete threads to hold onto.

i love my outcome, and to me with the longer studs, its the same just farrrrrr cheaper than wider wheel. wish i could afford some nice wheels tho.

hope this helps.

Knob Jockey

One thing to keep in mind if you are installing longer wheel studs and you want to use your OEM lug nuts, is to make sure the studs aren't so long that your lug nuts hit the ends of the stud before they reach full torque (100 ft/lbs) on the wheel.

You also have the option of using open lug nuts.

Here's a pic posted by DRM (Doug Rippie Motorsports) showing a comparison of different length wheel studs. Note that the OEM studs are not threaded all the way to the tip.

ConceptLS3

Hello,

I was wondering if you could please send me a pic of your car? I am currently in the process of trying to find the best wheels that fit the car. I would really to fit some wheels that are almost sticking out in the rear, for example a 56 offset in the rear, and 50 in the front 19's in the rear, and 18's in front; however I have yet to see an example. If anyone has anything or could share some further info it would be great,

Best,

Alen

email: alenr7089@gmail.com

300Z51

Hey Alen,

I responded to your PM, but thought I'd also mention it here: The +56 offset that you mention if for a C5. That offset will stick out well beyond a stock C6 fender. +65 is about the lowest (most aggressive) you will want to go.

1FASTVERT

I recently put a wide body kit on the rear on my vert and now the wheels are too far inside the wheel well. I bought 1" hubcentric adapters but the lugs stick out too far and interfere with the rim sitting flush against the adapter. I was thinking about cutting off a little bit of the stock lugs or are there other alternatives. I am sorry to butt into your thread but I think the questions I have have some relavance here. I do have 325/25/20 with an offset of 79. This set up made the tires stick out of the body line so I went with a wide body kit. Sorry for the rambling, I am working graveyards. Later.

ConceptLS3

Hey,

Thanks for the reply and also thanks for the pics u have sent. In my opinion which is just my opinion the 65 offset still looks as if the wheels are tucked in beyond the fender. If for some reason u decided to go with fender flares which offset would u choose? If I'm correct the 56 offset in this case would work,

Thanks for the input,

Alen

Wayne O

IMO it's preferable to have wheels with the proper offsets so that spacers aren't needed. That said there's nothing wrong with using spacers. In fact, I believe there used to be a model Porsche that came from the factory with 'hub extenders' as standard equipment. I think I have 1" spacers on my front 11 x 18 wheels usually running with 305 tires. Even with the rigors and stresses of constant road course use I've never had any issues related to the spacers. Personally, I wouldn't use a spacer greater than 1.5" but that's just me.

I use the long APR wheel studs with open-ended lug nuts. If you can't get 8 full revolutions with your lug nuts you should change to longer studs.

I sold them recently but my CCW street wheels were sized so you could use Z06 size tires on a stock body C6 without the tires sticking out and without the need for spacers. Again, having proper wheel design and offsets are preferable to using spacers but if you have to use spacers you should be fine.

300Z51

If your car is lowered at all, anything more aggressive than that +65 may resultl in a cracked fender upon hitting a bump. However with fender flares, I've seen cars use Z06 width and offset...makes for a lot of additional wheel options.

Bill Dearborn

When I was changing wheels for the track I had one set that didn't clear the calipers by much so I added a 1/8 spacer. After doing some measurements I determined the spacer moved the lug nut too far out on the stock stud to the point not all of the stock lug nut's threads were engaged on the stud. I purchased replacement studs at Advanced Auto Parts which were threaded all the way to the end but the same length as the stock studs. This allowed the nut to be fully threaded on the stud and when I had my other wheels on that didn't require the spacer the stud didn't push out the end of the lug nut.

Bill

ahmed_busultan

Hi ;
i've just bought big break calibers and I want to fix them on my C6 2009 , but I'm really
don't know what size of spacers I should use, please advice me ?

0Randy@DRM

There is many reasons to run a wheel spacer.
1st brake clearance. Most if not all after market brake packages require a spacer to clear the spokes. Remembering that a factory wheel can deflect .060 of a inch in the caliper area, most good race wheels will be in the .035 range.

2nd Looks There is nothing worse then having the sucked in look.

3rd Change the handling of the car. Further you push a tire out the softer the spring rate. Track front to rear ratio will change the handling.

Common Q and A that comes into our sales office.

Are your wheel spacers hub centric? Answer, our 5/8 spacers are. .00001 to 3/8 inch spacers still have the factory hub exposed. Thus being impossible to have a spacer taking up the same room as the factory hub. 1/2 spacers are flush with the factory hub, that is why we have to have some extra meat to do the hub centric part.



What size spacers make the tire flush with the fender? Answer, flush is a matter of opinion. There is a million different combinations to make the final call on that one via a phone call. Even different rotors can change the position of the tire-wheel.

Can I mock it up before buying a spacer? Answer, YES! Use some 1/2 washers (grade 8 has the least amount of thickness variance). Tighten down wheel make sure you have 3-4 threads, doesn't have to be a full 100 foot pounds. Then put the car back on the ground and let the suspension settle. DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR IN THE MOCK UP STAGE. Find out the amount of washers are required to accomplish your goals and measure it. Then find the spacer that fits the needs!!!

What is different between a DRM spacer and a cheap one from the auto parts place on the corner? Answer, most of the universal fits are not going to work good on anything. Ours are 100 percent built for the Corvette. Materials used are completely different, DRM uses a good quality spacer. It's important to keep the wheel tight even under extreme stress. Cheaper spacers often squish under load and cause a reduction of lug nut torque aka loose wheel. Cast spacers wow really There is a ton of other little things like leaving sharp edges and no coating to save a buck, well that's just bad craftsmanship and a engineers nightmare.

What is your take on wheel adapters? Answer, the only thing I'm not a fan of is using aluminum to retain the stud's lip. Torque should be checked all the time with something like this. My buddy used a 2 inch adapter on his truck. After the summer he took them off and I pounded out a stud. Looked down into the hole and it was smashed all over the place. Never have seen that on a steel hub.

Closing thoughts, Be safe with all processes above. Install and setup a car with extreme care and you will have a very good experience. Do it wrong and ........ I approve all above advice!

Randy
www.dougrippie.com