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Yet another No FOB Detected issue on C6 2007 Coupe

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Old 04-08-2012, 10:13 PM
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darrennye
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Default Yet another No FOB Detected issue on C6 2007 Coupe

Ugg. I cannot believe all the time I've wasted trying to resolve this, and all the issues everyone is having with Key FOB's. But I'm hoping someone might be able to suggest something for me. I'm sorry this post is quite long but it summarizes all my issues and what I've tried.

June 2011

I reported to my Chevy dealer that for the past several months, I've had to have the key fob out of my pocket and closer to the start button, in order to both start and stop the car completely. However standing outside the car with the key Fob in my pocket, I could still hold the car door button and it would unlock and let me in.

Batteries in the key fob's were replace but that had no effect. No other issues were found by the dealer.


Sept 2011

Installed the following in one weekend:

A) C6HUD from PartsTaxi:
http://www.partstaxi.com/partlocator...catalogid=6984

Revision 2 Instructions were followed:
http://www.keystonestatecorvetteclub...%20Rev%202.pdf
The HUD is working great.

B) Old Sirius Magnetic Mount Car Antenna - similar (but not the same as):
http://www.myradiostore.com/sirius/s...e/44-sixm.html
This is run from the center of the dashboard, behind the dashboard and radio, and up to the center console, should I decide to use my old Stiletto 2 tuner or other in the console. Currently the antenna isn't connected to anything.

C) Version 2 PAL (Personal Audio Link):
http://www.kawal.net/PAL%20Rev%202.htm

Since my C6 vette had no XM and no XM wiring harness, the installation
was as per Option 3 on this page:
http://www.kawal.net/PAL%20rev2%20in...htm#Option%203

The PAL is mounted under the amplifier next to the fuse panel, and the cables for the iPod run from the PAL, under the carpet by the passenger, and up to the console (a smallhole was drilled in the console, to fit the cables).
The PAL has been working fine.


Although I can't be quite sure on the exact timing and sequence of issues - the key fob issues continued to get worse after the above was complete - and additional battery issues were happening.

I do remember that after installing the HUD and PAL, the Security icon on the dashboard, stayed lit while the ignition is on or engine is running.

But by October, my battery would start to go dead now and then, forcing me to have to get a jump.

And sometimes it wasn't a dead battery - it was apparently RF interference at my local gas station. Similar to the forum post below, only one gas station in my neighborhood has caused my vette not to start, sitting at the gas pump. The gas station must be using some sort of RF Point of Sale system that causes interference with the key fob system:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...e-problem.html
There are no cell towers for several blocks. And I don't have this problem at any other gas station.

Sometime in October, I noticed I had to hold the key fob right next to the start button, in order to get the car started. Otherwise I'd keep seeing the dreaded "No FOB Detected". Shutting off the car also had the "No FOB Detected" and I had to confirm the shutoff by holding the start button. However I could still stand outside the car with the key Fob in my pocket, and hold the car door button and it would unlock and let me in. Yet once inside the car, the detection problems would begin.

When my battery would wind up dead, the longest the car was ever sitting without running, was a few days. I finally had the battery replaced in November 2011 at the dealer, and that seemed to correct the battery dead issues - though I wonder if this could be related to this TSB 07-06-03-001B:
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...eprogram+RCDLR
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/kens...ogramming.html

I reported the dead battery issues, dashboard security light issue, and Key FOB issues to the dealer and they worked on the car in November 2011. They did replace the car battery and FOB batteries. And although the car's dead battery issues were resolved, the Key FOB issues were not. The dealer said it was likely due to RF Interference from within the car - probably from my additions (HUD or PAL) and they did not correct the issues. They did not try reprogramming the RCDLR, which I recently read can sometimes help.

I have tried removing absolutely everything from the car (and they were put in house) except for the installed components. Removed were all cell phones, mobile phone chargers, GPS, other non-corvette building key fobs, EZpass, other car keys, etc. However, the same issues continue.

I did read that some of the Key FOB issues on the C5's were relating to bad soldering joints on the transmitters:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...em-solved.html
However I didn't see any obvious issues with my C6 circuit boards. I also just tried changing the batteries again today - but that had no effect. I have also never seen an "FOB Battery Low" message.

I did some additional testing today. Outside the car, the Key FOB's would lock and unlock the doors by pressing the buttons, and approaching the locked car, I could still just hold the car button and the door would unlock and open. I could also unlock the trunk outside the car. But the problems began to happen once inside the car. Unless I'm holding the key Fob right next (just to the right) of the Start button, the DIC reports the "No FOB Detected". Putting Key FOB #1 into the slot next to the glove box, would also allow the car to start. However, putting Key FOB #2 into the slot, would NOT allow the car to start - even with fresh batteries! Yet Key FOB #2 would allow me to lock/unlock the doors while outside the car. What I did discover today, is that if I sat in the driver's seat and turned toward the hatch, and held the key FOB at arms length into the hatch area, then the FOB was detected for both starting and turning off the car!

One other thing I tried, was to completely remove the PAL module that was installed next to the fuse box, and put it far away from the car (along with all the other chargers, etc). However - removing the PAL had no effect.

I have these issues regardless of where the car is sitting. It can be in front of my house (it won't fit in my garage) by the curb or in driveway, at work in the parking lot, at a mall, etc. The same Key FOB detection happens regardless of where the car is.

I did find this message about a person with a C5 vette, who replaced his Key FOB "receiver" to cure very similar issues I have: http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=27027 -- but I have a C6. Is the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) considered the "receiver" in a C6? Anyone have the C6 part number for this? The part number I have, 15332177, doesn't bring up the RCDLR on gmpartsdirect.com.

Also mentioned on the forums is that there are 4 antennas around the car. How would I tell if this is an antenna issue or receiver issue? Or key fob transmitter issue? Should computer analysis techniques the dealer can use, detect any of this?

I did just order a couple extra Key FOBs off ebay. I'll add those as Key FOB #3 and #4 (mine are programmed as #1 and #2) and see if they both have the same issue.

Can someone please tell me, is it possible for the HUD install to be causing all these Key FOB not detected issues? Does the HUD exhibit any sort of Electrical or RF interference? How about the cable that goes from the C6 harness to the PAL, to power the PAL? Even with the actual PAL out of the car, that cable is still in the car, which was run behind the radio and then down to the fuse box area. Or is it possible for an unconnected satellite antenna located on the dashboard, to cause some sort of odd Key FOB interference?

What I also don't understand is why the security light is still on all the time! How could that be related to my HUD or PAL install?

And why does the Key FOB get detected when I turn around on driver seat and hold it in the hatch area?

This is not a battery issue - as that was replaced in November and I no longer have the dead battery issues. And the dealer just says this is RF interference and it's up to me to figure out, since I added parts.

I did just find this thread with a similar issue:
It confirms: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...tallation.html
This all started for me with a battery running down after not using the car for awhile. The thread states that the dealer has to update the ECU with Tech 2. And if they hook up the Tech 2, and the software states 12608602, that is the one from the factory and they must update it to 12614676, new software to correct battery run down condition. It also states that they may also have to reprogram the 'crankshaft sensor'.

And I found this issue tonight - it talks about loose ground wires in the RCDLR area is sometimes the culprit for these types of issues - and the RCDLR is located in the top of the center console behind the radio and hazard flasher areas - and to check for loose wires there: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...defective.html. Note that I haven't received any TPMS notification messages.

I have not tried cleaning the FOB contacts or bending them to try and ensure a good connection - but I will try that next.

I am at my wits end with this!!

Anyone have any other recommendations on what I should do, check, or tell my dealer to do?
Old 04-08-2012, 10:57 PM
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Vette_DD
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One or more bad antennas inside the car that detect a fob to let the START button work?

Evidently the antenna(s) that detect a fob outside the car (to unlock the door) Is/are okay.

Yes, I saw that you mentioned them above, but that sounds like the most likely culprits.

Last edited by Vette_DD; 04-08-2012 at 11:16 PM.
Old 04-09-2012, 01:01 AM
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Thrill6
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If you can lock and unlock the doors with the FOB, your FOBs are not the issue. My bet is that either the RCDLR is bad, or the wiring is bad. The RCDLR has to receive a signal from only a single antenna to lock/unlock the doors, but to start it has to receive a signal from multiple antennas to determine that the FOB is located inside the car before it will start.
Old 04-09-2012, 01:11 AM
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300Z51
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I've had similar problems with the FOB in my '07. It never had any problems until the original FOB battery died and I had to change it. Ever since the new battery, I get the dreaded 'no fob detected,' or I have problems just getting into the car. Whenever this happens, I just squeeze the FOB together by pressing my thumb on the middle of the FOB (where the logo is) and my index or middle finger on the back. It works everytime. This tells me that the FOB is not making contact with the battery at all times. This defect likely happened when I changed the battery. You can open up the FOB and bend the contact a bit to help it maintain contact. Unfortunately, it just seems to be a cheap design of the battery contact.
Old 04-11-2012, 09:53 PM
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darrennye
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I wanted to log back in, and let everyone know what my resolution to this was. Wow I'm so happy that I finally got this resolved!

There were two problems. Remember that I had installed the HUD as well as the PAL at the same time. My worst fear was that the HUD was exhibiting some sort of RF interference, and that I was going to have a mess tearing the dash apart again. Ugg. The cables for the PAL were running behind the radio and down near the fuse box. I had removed the center console, glove box and lifted the dash for that install.

The other odd thing is that the keyFOBs worked outside the car and to the rear of the car, without a problem. Yet putting KeyFOB #2 in the "slot" in the glove box, did not start the car, even with fresh batteries.

Here were the problems:

1) Apparently we disconnected and never reconnected the cable that connects to the KeyFOB "slot" next to the glove box. When I was putting KeyFOB #1 in the slot and it was working, but putting KeyFOB #2 in the slot wasn't, I assumed it was some sort of problem with the RCDLR or KeyFOB #2. But turns out the slot wasn't working at all in my test (I just assumed it was). And KeyFOB #1 was being recognized on the right side of the car via the normal antennas but #2 was not being recognized on the right side (I still don't know why the difference).

2) The techs at the dealer told me that my VIN number was outside the range for TSB 07-06-03-001B, which related to the battery going dead and then causing the RCDLR to require reprogramming. However at my insistence, they used their Tech 2 meter on the car and they said the response code for the RCDLR was "Unknown Programming". So they proceeded to upgrade the software to the current version. At one point they said the upgrade had a problem and they could no longer start the car. But somehow they got around that and they completed the upgrade successfully.

After performing the above two items - I'm happy to report that both KeyFOB #1 and #2 now appear to be functioning completely normal, from within anywhere in the car and outside the car!

The dealer charged me a $230 diagnosis/tech fee for the above. I'm not yet sure if I can get this reimbursed under the GMPP Extended Warranty. The dealer said no - but nothing in the agreement seems to tell me I can't, since this is an obvious issue with Corvette's - especially in light of that TSB, even though my VIN was out of the range. I'm going to pursue that tomorrow.

Hope this helps someone else!
Old 07-13-2012, 11:46 AM
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I have been seeing the "no FOBs" message on my 2012 GS.

The problem was caused by having other stuff in my pocket with the FOB, such as my cell phone or other keys.

Now that I know this, I never have the problem any more.
Old 06-30-2014, 06:47 PM
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I have an issue were when car is really hot inside the key Fob wont work.. Even in the glove box.. I have been rolling down windows a crack when I goto work and that has, for the time being, made issue go away.. Seems once I open all the doors for awhile I can start the car, even when I have had the issue. Very strange.

Today I had to wait 20 minutes in parking lot and eventually the car started, any ideas? definitely related to the temp inside the car.
Old 07-01-2014, 11:19 PM
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Anyone?
Old 01-21-2015, 06:53 PM
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The slot in my glove box is not working I did the fob test with the key in the truck and the fob in the slot and get nothing, what is the best way to get to the slot, removing the entire glove box can I get to it by removing the radio bezel. Thanks
Old 01-21-2015, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mno221
The slot in my glove box is not working I did the fob test with the key in the truck and the fob in the slot and get nothing, what is the best way to get to the slot, removing the entire glove box can I get to it by removing the radio bezel. Thanks
Not likely that anyone is going to help much. It's a 3 year old thread that is about 3 different issues.

Might want to start a new thread with a title that's really what your problem is about.
Old 01-21-2015, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Vette_DD
Not likely that anyone is going to help much. It's a 3 year old thread that is about 3 different issues.

Might want to start a new thread with a title that's really what your problem is about.

thanks will do

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