Locked Out - This is getting Embarrassing
#21
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
This has gone from bad to worse.
Today, I could not get in - neither FOB recognized. ONce the key was used to gain entry, the alarm went off as usual.
Pressed the start button - NO FOBS FOUND. Put the FOB in the glove box in the proper slot, with button facing the passenger side, and it would NOT start.
Then the alarm went off again and would not shut off.
I had to open the hood and disconnect the damn battery to get it to shut up.
Went to buy another set of CR2032 batteries and installed. Neither set recognized.. Neither will allow the car to start.. So it now sits. Completely useless to me.
All battery terminals checked - they are fine.. The car battery is fine and new within last 3 monhts. Had it load tested last week when all this craziness started and the battery is fine.
SO NOW -- WFT ? It's not enough that it's my DD, now I have a fricking useless $30,000 car sitting that I can not use, out of warranty, and will have to be hauled somewhere.
This is total bull crap....... I am no longer embarrassed I'm just flat pissed.
Today, I could not get in - neither FOB recognized. ONce the key was used to gain entry, the alarm went off as usual.
Pressed the start button - NO FOBS FOUND. Put the FOB in the glove box in the proper slot, with button facing the passenger side, and it would NOT start.
Then the alarm went off again and would not shut off.
I had to open the hood and disconnect the damn battery to get it to shut up.
Went to buy another set of CR2032 batteries and installed. Neither set recognized.. Neither will allow the car to start.. So it now sits. Completely useless to me.
All battery terminals checked - they are fine.. The car battery is fine and new within last 3 monhts. Had it load tested last week when all this craziness started and the battery is fine.
SO NOW -- WFT ? It's not enough that it's my DD, now I have a fricking useless $30,000 car sitting that I can not use, out of warranty, and will have to be hauled somewhere.
This is total bull crap....... I am no longer embarrassed I'm just flat pissed.
Last edited by diyguy; 01-08-2012 at 02:13 PM.
#23
Team Owner
It seems apparent to me that its related to the module that controls such things (BCM? - I think it has been covered). But there also has to be a receiving unit on the car that sends and receives signals from the FOB - I'd do some research on that as well.
Good luck. I know I'd be seven kinds of pissed too if it was mine doing that.
Last edited by jschindler; 01-08-2012 at 09:36 AM.
#24
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C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Sounds like your gonna have to bite the bullet and tow it to the dealer. Electronic problems are hard to pin down yourself.
Sorry this happened and good luck.
Sorry this happened and good luck.
#25
Melting Slicks
This has gone from bad to worse.
Today, I could not get in - neither FOB recognized. ONce the key was used to gain entry, the alarm went off as usual.
Pressed the start button - NO FOBS FOUND. Put the FOB in the glove box in the proper slot, with button facing the passenger side, and it would NOT start.
Then the alarm went off again and would not shut off.
I had to open the hood and disconnect the damn battery to get it to shut up.
Went to buy another set of CR2032 batteries and installed. Neither set recognized.. Neither will allow the car to start.. So it now sits. Completely useless to me.
All battery terminals checked - they are fine.. The car battery is fine and new within last 3 monhts. Had it load tested last week when all this craziness started and the battery is fine.
SO NOW -- WFT ? It's not enough that it's my DD, now I have a fricking useless $30,000 car sitting that I can not use, out of warranty, and will have to be hauled somewhere.
This is total bull crap....... I am no longer embarrassed I'm just flat pissed.
Today, I could not get in - neither FOB recognized. ONce the key was used to gain entry, the alarm went off as usual.
Pressed the start button - NO FOBS FOUND. Put the FOB in the glove box in the proper slot, with button facing the passenger side, and it would NOT start.
Then the alarm went off again and would not shut off.
I had to open the hood and disconnect the damn battery to get it to shut up.
Went to buy another set of CR2032 batteries and installed. Neither set recognized.. Neither will allow the car to start.. So it now sits. Completely useless to me.
All battery terminals checked - they are fine.. The car battery is fine and new within last 3 monhts. Had it load tested last week when all this craziness started and the battery is fine.
SO NOW -- WFT ? It's not enough that it's my DD, now I have a fricking useless $30,000 car sitting that I can not use, out of warranty, and will have to be hauled somewhere.
This is total bull crap....... I am no longer embarrassed I'm just flat pissed.
The parts department's job is to sell parts. They may give you their thought as to what the fix is as well. You can tell them you'll check out that theory and get back to them for the part once it's verified. Honor that committment if they provide the answer, building a relationship with them for the next time you get in this kinda jam.
Ask the service department if there are any service bulletins on the subject or try to Google/Bing them.
If this has been suggested already, apologies.
Last, try to get past this, as the stress will kill ya. Life is too short to get spun up when there is a solution in front of you (even if it is the dealer). It's not like stage 4 cancer, where is no fix.
In the end, it may be easier to just call several service departments and get it to the dealer you built a rapport with..
#26
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13, '16-'17-'18
No one has mentioned the obvious...
5 year old car, intermittent FOB Not Recognized problem.
What is everyone overlooking here?
5 year old car, intermittent FOB Not Recognized problem.
What is everyone overlooking here?
#27
Melting Slicks
No offense, but the OP is really frustrated. If you have the solution, why not just provide it JMO
#28
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13, '16-'17-'18
I have seen the FOB batteries mentioned in one form or another but I haven't seen anyone comment about the vehicle's battery. And as this is a 5 year old car, I haven't seen any comments about it being the original or a replacement
It is a well known issue that a flaky vehicle battery will raise all sorts of hell with FOB recognition and in the OP's case, as both FOBS are affected, this seems like another possibility.
(just 'cause the car cranks and starts mostly doesn't mean there still isn't a battery problem)
#29
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Put the battery on charger last night for about an hour. It's a 2 / 6 amp charger. Left on 2 amp. The needle barely coming off of ZERO - thus fully charged.
Has to be some sort of gremlin in the electronics somewhere. Can't do anything about it till Monday anyways - and BTW - no change since yesterday. --> <--
#30
Drifting
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1579675954-post3.html
Contact this member and see if he did anything else you may have overlooked.
Contact this member and see if he did anything else you may have overlooked.
#31
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Wounded Warrior Escort '11
HUH? I'm a ****-poor detail reader, but even I got that the car is out of warranty - the car is five years old.
It seems apparent to me that its related to the module that controls such things (BCM? - I think it has been covered). But there also has to be a receiving unit on the car that sends and receives signals from the FOB - I'd do some research on that as well.
Good luck. I know I'd be seven kinds of pissed too if it was mine doing that.
It seems apparent to me that its related to the module that controls such things (BCM? - I think it has been covered). But there also has to be a receiving unit on the car that sends and receives signals from the FOB - I'd do some research on that as well.
Good luck. I know I'd be seven kinds of pissed too if it was mine doing that.
#33
to the OP, even though you have a new battery 3 months ago and it tests fine on load, static, etc., i think you have a problem with your car battery. for 100 bucks, i would put in another new battery or get it replaced under the battery's warranty. all the symptoms you describe are pointing to a car battery issue. you should be able to start your car with no battery in the fob with the fob in the glove box.
you may also want to look under the car to make sure that the positive cable is connected to the starter snuggly first, before potentially replacing the car battery.
the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) module may have gone bad as well, as was previously mentioned in the posts above.
My recommendation would be to check the +ve connection on the starter, and if that was ok, replace car battery, and if that did nothing, replace the RCDLR module.
My .02
you may also want to look under the car to make sure that the positive cable is connected to the starter snuggly first, before potentially replacing the car battery.
the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) module may have gone bad as well, as was previously mentioned in the posts above.
My recommendation would be to check the +ve connection on the starter, and if that was ok, replace car battery, and if that did nothing, replace the RCDLR module.
My .02
#34
Drifting
Wonder if this has anything to do with it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/06-07-C6-Cor...item484352e4ad
Keep us posted on what the solution turns out to be.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/06-07-C6-Cor...item484352e4ad
Keep us posted on what the solution turns out to be.
#35
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St. Jude Donor '09-'11
More likely the antennas are telling the computer that your fob is inside the car, so it won't unlock the doors. This also explains why the car starts up after you manage to get the door unlocked manually. Not sure if there's anyway to diagnose down the level of parts to replace at home, you'd need to take it in. Unfortunately, if it is intermittent, it may not misbehave during the service visit.
#36
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With a problem like this the first thing that should be done is to read the codes. The following codes are related to vehicle access problems but you need a Tech II or similar high level scanner to read them:
DTC B1474, B2981, B3848, or B3849 (DDM/PDM)
DTC B1474, B2981, B3848, or B3849 (RCDLR)
DTC B2517 or B2518
DTC B3142 or B3152
DTC B3145 or B3155
DTC B3265
DTC B3618
Without that scanner and assuming the OP knows the battery and its connections are good that leaves us looking for module ground issues.
The OP states the issue is related to both doors and the hatch which means it has to be common to all 3. That leaves three things: The grounds, or the BCM or the RCLDR which are all common to the issue. The only common module ground in the subsystem is the one for the BCM/RCLDR. If one of the other modules had a ground problem only that module would be having the problem. The first thing to check is to see if the ground for those two modules is OK. That ground is located at G104. The ground path for both goes through Splice 232 which is located in the passenger footwell.
Here is the ground schematic:
(1) S217
(2) Relay Block - I/P
(3) G202
(4) S234
(5) S202
(6) Splice Pack SP208
S232 Instrument panel harness, approximately 3 cm (1.2 in) from the BCM C1 breakout towards SP208 (CKT 851).
(1) C116
(2) C180
(3) C182
(4) G104
(5) Fuse Block - Underhood C3
(6) Fuse Block - Underhood C4
It seems like there would be other weird things happening if the ground to the BCM was bad but there is no way to tell for sure without checking. If the ground is good then by process of elimination that leaves either the BCM or the RCLDR. Both require reprogramming with a Tech II or equivalent tool so will require some dealer or other shop with the proper tools to complete any repair involving replacement of those modules.
Bill
DTC B1474, B2981, B3848, or B3849 (DDM/PDM)
DTC B1474, B2981, B3848, or B3849 (RCDLR)
DTC B2517 or B2518
DTC B3142 or B3152
DTC B3145 or B3155
DTC B3265
DTC B3618
Without that scanner and assuming the OP knows the battery and its connections are good that leaves us looking for module ground issues.
The OP states the issue is related to both doors and the hatch which means it has to be common to all 3. That leaves three things: The grounds, or the BCM or the RCLDR which are all common to the issue. The only common module ground in the subsystem is the one for the BCM/RCLDR. If one of the other modules had a ground problem only that module would be having the problem. The first thing to check is to see if the ground for those two modules is OK. That ground is located at G104. The ground path for both goes through Splice 232 which is located in the passenger footwell.
Here is the ground schematic:
(1) S217
(2) Relay Block - I/P
(3) G202
(4) S234
(5) S202
(6) Splice Pack SP208
S232 Instrument panel harness, approximately 3 cm (1.2 in) from the BCM C1 breakout towards SP208 (CKT 851).
(1) C116
(2) C180
(3) C182
(4) G104
(5) Fuse Block - Underhood C3
(6) Fuse Block - Underhood C4
It seems like there would be other weird things happening if the ground to the BCM was bad but there is no way to tell for sure without checking. If the ground is good then by process of elimination that leaves either the BCM or the RCLDR. Both require reprogramming with a Tech II or equivalent tool so will require some dealer or other shop with the proper tools to complete any repair involving replacement of those modules.
Bill
#37
my 06 acted similar.. Fob would unlock door only when unlock depressed.. proximity function did not work. I could not start car unless fob was placed in the glovebox. Dealer replaced RCDLR and all was good after that.