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A little piece of worthless info for you to ponder >

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Old 12-27-2011, 07:01 AM
  #1  
Turbo6TA
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Default A little piece of worthless info for you to ponder >

I would like to post about something that would be "groundbreaking" news that I just learned about, and that I could pass on to my fellow Corvette aficionados, but unfortunatly, this is the best I could come up with > >

A couple of days ago, I had the rear end of my 2011 GS (A6) jacked up in order to rotate one of the rear wheels so I could check for what I thought was a nail in the tire.

Both rear tires were off the ground, and the transmission was in "neutral", so I could actually rotate the rear wheel.

The ignition button was "Off" ... (not in Accessory mode)

Each time I would turn the tire slightly (either forward or backward), I could hear a very very slight high pitched noise. This noise was so quiet, you could barely hear it, but nonetheless, it would sound when the tire was turned.

It was NOT a scrapping noise from a dragging brake, or anything mechanical sounding like that .. It was [in fact] a high pitched sound from something electrical. Almost like hearing the electric fuel pump in the tank turn on and off when the wheel/tire was moved ever so slightly!

So ... any ideas as to what is activated when the rear wheels are turned?

Again, this was NOT a mechanical sound .. it was a very quiet- high pitched electrical motor "whirring" / "buzzing" type sound, and would only make noise when the rear wheel was moving ever so slightly.

Ron,

.

Last edited by Turbo6TA; 12-27-2011 at 07:05 AM.
Old 12-27-2011, 07:58 AM
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dgrant3830
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News too me. I can only guess that the system wasn't totally powered down yet and the PCM/ECU was reacting to the wheel hub sensors turning.
Old 12-27-2011, 08:08 AM
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AORoads
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no idea. will for answers.
Old 12-27-2011, 09:01 AM
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WHT
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The parasitic friction suppressors contained in the housing described above very often will work without modular modification, but in some cases it will he necessary to experiment with both Left and Right wheel rotation to find a suitable orbital adjustment to remove any unwanted sound. Some manufacturers besides GM have tried to use liquid fibrous ceramics in combination with crystal vapor nodules, or other resistance damping fluids, to control Left rotation. However, there is no credible evidence of any fundamental difference in auditory performance as a result and there is always a chance to further degrade the Right wheel rotation response.

In addition, the resonance amplifier company who manufactures many of the internal parts in this unit has never seen wheel rotation amplification that could be made completely free of parasitic drag oscillations by using a simple friction suppressor construction and still maintain the cost ratio of the product for GM.
Old 12-27-2011, 09:05 AM
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Wayne O
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Originally Posted by WHT
The parasitic friction suppressors contained in the housing described above very often will work without modular modification, but in some cases it will he necessary to experiment with both Left and Right wheel rotation to find a suitable orbital adjustment to remove any unwanted sound. Some manufacturers besides GM have tried to use liquid fibrous ceramics in combination with crystal vapor nodules, or other resistance damping fluids, to control Left rotation. However, there is no credible evidence of any fundamental difference in auditory performance as a result and there is always a chance to further degrade the Right wheel rotation response.

In addition, the resonance amplifier company who manufactures many of the internal parts in this unit has never seen wheel rotation amplification that could be made completely free of parasitic drag oscillations by using a simple friction suppressor construction and still maintain the cost ratio of the product for GM.
Exactly what I thought.

Or maybe it's the Retro Encabulator.
Old 12-27-2011, 09:57 AM
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David c6
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Turbo6Ta,I would love to have a poster of your avatar.That is TOO funny!!
Old 12-27-2011, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by WHT
The parasitic friction suppressors contained in the housing described above very often will work without modular modification, but in some cases it will he necessary to experiment with both Left and Right wheel rotation to find a suitable orbital adjustment to remove any unwanted sound. Some manufacturers besides GM have tried to use liquid fibrous ceramics in combination with crystal vapor nodules, or other resistance damping fluids, to control Left rotation. However, there is no credible evidence of any fundamental difference in auditory performance as a result and there is always a chance to further degrade the Right wheel rotation response.

In addition, the resonance amplifier company who manufactures many of the internal parts in this unit has never seen wheel rotation amplification that could be made completely free of parasitic drag oscillations by using a simple friction suppressor construction and still maintain the cost ratio of the product for GM.
Hummmmmm interesting take on this, but it's a well known fact in the community, that that whine is cause by the ectoplasmodesuculator in the rear housing. Of course everyone would know what it's purpose is!
Old 12-27-2011, 10:10 AM
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Turbo6TA
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Yup ... Wise words from our good friend and long-time member of the Corvette Forum ... Mr. "Tommy Toilet"







You can even buy a "Tommy Toilet" T-Shirt in his honor: http://www.kotapparel.com/index.php?...m_campaign=SaS



.

Last edited by Turbo6TA; 12-27-2011 at 11:07 AM.
Old 12-27-2011, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by WHT
The parasitic friction suppressors contained in the housing described above very often will work without modular modification, but in some cases it will he necessary to experiment with both Left and Right wheel rotation to find a suitable orbital adjustment to remove any unwanted sound. Some manufacturers besides GM have tried to use liquid fibrous ceramics in combination with crystal vapor nodules, or other resistance damping fluids, to control Left rotation. However, there is no credible evidence of any fundamental difference in auditory performance as a result and there is always a chance to further degrade the Right wheel rotation response.
In addition, the resonance amplifier company who manufactures many of the internal parts in this unit has never seen wheel rotation amplification that could be made completely free of parasitic drag oscillations by using a simple friction suppressor construction and still maintain the cost ratio of the product for GM.
WOW someone has a lot of time on their hands.....
Old 12-27-2011, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by WHT
The parasitic friction suppressors contained in the housing described above very often will work without modular modification, but in some cases it will he necessary to experiment with both Left and Right wheel rotation to find a suitable orbital adjustment to remove any unwanted sound. Some manufacturers besides GM have tried to use liquid fibrous ceramics in combination with crystal vapor nodules, or other resistance damping fluids, to control Left rotation. However, there is no credible evidence of any fundamental difference in auditory performance as a result and there is always a chance to further degrade the Right wheel rotation response.

In addition, the resonance amplifier company who manufactures many of the internal parts in this unit has never seen wheel rotation amplification that could be made completely free of parasitic drag oscillations by using a simple friction suppressor construction and still maintain the cost ratio of the product for GM.
Wish I had my boots on while reading this.
Old 12-27-2011, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by WHT
The parasitic friction suppressors contained in the housing described above very often will work without modular modification, but in some cases it will he necessary to experiment with both Left and Right wheel rotation to find a suitable orbital adjustment to remove any unwanted sound. Some manufacturers besides GM have tried to use liquid fibrous ceramics in combination with crystal vapor nodules, or other resistance damping fluids, to control Left rotation. However, there is no credible evidence of any fundamental difference in auditory performance as a result and there is always a chance to further degrade the Right wheel rotation response.

In addition, the resonance amplifier company who manufactures many of the internal parts in this unit has never seen wheel rotation amplification that could be made completely free of parasitic drag oscillations by using a simple friction suppressor construction and still maintain the cost ratio of the product for GM.



Man, and I thought all along is was blinker fluid.



You sure it isn't blinker fliud?
Old 12-27-2011, 11:09 AM
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CyberGrayGS
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Originally Posted by Wayne O
Exactly what I thought.

Or maybe it's the Retro Encabulator.
Old 12-27-2011, 11:19 AM
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Cybernetic Medic
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I believe it is the rotary elliptical coaxial phase shifter. When you take it in to the dealer the problem should be intuitively obvious to the most casual observer. GM will be happy to fix it under warranty because it is in keeping with their long term strategic goals and objectives in this fast paced, market driven, global economy.
Old 12-27-2011, 11:33 AM
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You guys . . . .come on . . everybody knows it's the

FLUX CAPACITOR !

Old 12-27-2011, 11:53 AM
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Old 12-27-2011, 12:36 PM
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bonnell
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I thought it was the frequency grease...

...but I will be interested to see the correct answer.
Old 12-27-2011, 12:38 PM
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funymuny
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Originally Posted by CQRT
You guys . . . .come on . . everybody knows it's the

FLUX CAPACITOR !

You beat me to that....

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Old 12-27-2011, 01:42 PM
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Rusler John
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Well, I'd been hesitant to post this, thinking it was from my stupidity, but, I experienced the same "noise" several months ago. I had the Vette lifted up on a two post lift to change the oil and while I had it lifted, I thought I would clean and polish my chrome wheels. It's an A6, so I shut it off in neutral so I could rotate the rear wheels. While doing so, I could hear a faint "electric" noise coming from the rear end or transmission area. I paid little attention to it, but, thought it was odd since the ignition switch was off. After spending about an hour or so cleaning my wheels, I lowered the car down, filled it with oil and got in. It would not start! I tried everything I could think of. I got a message stating- "fob not detected", so, I put the fob in the holder in the glovebox... still nothing. I was going to call the dealer the next day to have it flatbedded over there, but, it was still between the lift posts and locked in park. I was afraid some kind of damage would occur getting it out, so, I lifted the whole rear of the car with a floor jack and dragged it out, backward, from between the lift posts. That was no simple task, by myself. Then I thought to jump it using a portable jump box.... no luck, just click. click, click. Then I used as a last resort, an old battery charger with a "start car" index on the dial. Bingo!!! It started, the first try. I was really afraid that I might have fried something or other, but, no, nothing bad happened. Even the windows were still indexed and all my personal settings were still there. I never figured out about this failure to start, other than the battery got discharged by something and that something must have been rear end or tranny related with electronics. So, there is something related there, electronically, to the rear end or tranny , that draws power when the ignition is off. I'll never do that again. BTW- I drove the Vette around for about 3 hours after that and never had a problem since. It's something to be aware of.
Old 12-27-2011, 02:06 PM
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ohfiver
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Default What

At this point I have forgotten what this post was all about and why I was reading it.
Old 12-27-2011, 02:57 PM
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kev1949
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Just like he said


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