Won't crank, good battery
12-31-2012, 07:19 AM
#21
Le Mans Master
... I have the same problem with my 2005. First it is not a battery problem or connection at the starter. If you took out the starter and then tried to start all the lights would not go out you would just have no start. Any one with this problem do they notice that all the lights come back on in the same amount of time every time? ...
So all the power does NOT go off. The dash lights are designed to go off during engine crank. So now the issue ISN'T power to the rest of the car going off when you try to crank but just that the starter solenoid isn't being powered to crank the engine. That's an entirely different and much simpler problem than all the lights going out when you try to crank. That's just a bad crank relay or connection or, more likely, lack of one of the safety permits such as a brake/clutch switch or transmission position switch. The "no crank" diagnostic should find that quickly because it is now a single issue instead of unrelated systems failing simultaneously.
12-31-2012, 09:28 AM
#22
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
12-31-2012, 09:32 AM
#23
When I get to shop on Thursday I will check and see if there is start command to crank relay, if none I will go back farther ( I think the connector bundle right next to right side of battery the wire goes thru). What is the problem when it is working no amout of wiggleing wires, tapping on relays (changed crank relay) makes a difference. When it acts up it will do it multiple times then ok for days. Thanks for all the help.
02-01-2013, 02:04 PM
#24
Intermediate
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I have a 2005 C6 with the same problem. I hear the motor driving the battery protection circuit switch when it is working properly, you know the whirring sound you hear when you press the start button? When I can't get it to start I hear the sound again but it doesn't go for the normal time and the car won't start. I have had luck disconnecting the battery for a few seconds and when I hook it back up I hear the whirring sound like it is supposed to be and the car starts. Does anyone have any intel or info on that battery protection circuit and the little motor or whatever that drives that switch?
02-01-2013, 02:21 PM
#25
What I found was a bad crimp on crank relay inside the fuse box under the hood next to the battery. This fuse box is not designed to be opened just replaced. What I did was trace wires to bottom and run a jumper to the top ( I used a relay I cut open so I could solder a couple of wires to the contact leads. I have another fuse box but just wanted to be sure. No more start problem. I opened up the box and found the problem at the crank relay connection
02-01-2013, 07:00 PM
#27
Safety Car
The ONLY way to secure the C6 cam-style clamp is with a cone-shaped nut.
With a regular nut, the clamp CANNOT tighten. And a loose clamp can corrode: http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=846931
02-01-2013, 10:20 PM
#28
Simplify
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
~~~ CFOT Book Folder ~~~
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I had a rather strange experience with our '08 today. Wife started the car, drove about 2 miles and parked it. When she came back, it wouldn't start or even crank over. I went to her car and noticed that when I pressed the start button, the dash lights immediately went out. After some time, I decided to buy a new battery and I installed it. Still no crank. When the start button was pressed, the dash lights immediately went out and the car acted dead. After 5 seconds or so, the dash lights returned. We called AAA and the driver tested the battery and it seemed ok and then connected his jumpers to the battery. The behavior did not change. I tried several times. Just as a test, I moved the rauto shifter, in case one of the switches was not working, but no change. Then, I decided to see if the car would go into accessory mode and it did. Then I shut off accessory mode and tried to start it - and it started right up.
Any explanations?
Any explanations?
08-03-2016, 11:14 PM
#30
Cruising
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Hi..1st time on here...After battery trouble I put in a AC Delco 78 battery that's 800 CCA with 120 reserve.....This will start the 05 Vette.......But.......after driving it and shutting down it will not start most times....I have to boot out by disconnecting the positive terminal from the battery and waiting 10 minutes or more....The car will then start.......It's a computer issue...I think...Question is why?????? I had bought an AC Delco 86P battery that was 525 CCA....car would start with this battery but I had low voltage issues...so I got an 86 G with 650CCA. also AC Delco. This also would not start the car sometimes. 700 CCA is what is needed minimum with 120 reserve..no less. I wound up with the size 78 as mentioned above...The only way I could get one was with dual terminals. Just don't use the side terms...It's a little bigger than what GM calls for so you have to move the battery to get a socket on the positive terminal...but it starts the car up.......No low voltage issues as with the other batteries....
08-03-2016, 11:22 PM
#31
Cruising
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Please note that GM has the 86 G with 650 CCA listed as the battery for this car. But 700 CCA or higher is what you really need. 120 reserve is the minimum. 110 is not enough. The cars system will pull 5 volts to power the security and computer systems while the car is shut down...You need 120 reserve for this reason...If you use the 650 CCA battery that they list...you have to set the parameters to do so. Does anyone know what that means??? I'm not going to do that as I have 800 CCA . I,m just curious?? Do you have to reset the car's computer? ECM? Why..??? Shouldn't the car already be set for 650 CCA at the factory ?? Or as the default setting????
08-06-2016, 02:20 PM
#32
Cruising
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Hi. I'm back. Every time I think that I have my issue solved the car will all of the sudden not start. I booted out by taking the positive cable off 2 days ago and ever since, the car has started. I just fired it up and took it for a short ride. I put the top down and put it back up and parked the car in my driveway. I'm going to let it sit for an hour an see if it starts..Maybe it will. Interestingly enough; if I do not tighten the positive cable, the car starts the next time. If I tighten down the positive cable then maybe not. Anybody know what's going on here!!!!..
08-31-2016, 06:52 PM
#35
Heel & Toe
Hello,
Could you please send me that trouble shoot guide. My email:
ed.sherman@t-online.de
Thanks
Ed aka Old Sarge
Could you please send me that trouble shoot guide. My email:
ed.sherman@t-online.de
Thanks
Ed aka Old Sarge
09-05-2016, 07:35 AM
#36
3rd Gear
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I just recently had this problem on my 09. Battery was fine, checked the ground, it was fine. The car would bog while trying to start & then resulted in a no start. Would have to jump it off the alternator to get it started. Turned out on mine to be the crank sensor. Went ahead & threw a new Powermaster starter on it while in the process, hit the start button now & fires up immediately. Hope this helps.
06-25-2017, 02:58 PM
#38
Heel & Toe
It cost me about $11,850 and change to get my Corvette fixed. It was no simple problem and took the mechanic; (who charges $190.00 an hour) about 40 man hours to fix. First problem was a bad brake switch – the one that is engaged/pressed to start the car. It had a short and was draining the battery. Second problem was replacing the battery without a proper size (800 cranking amp). Never go cheap on a battery for a Corvette – it really screws up the computers. Third problem was a wire which was part of the wiring harness being ground to the frame of the car. This harness was modified (homologation) to German specs so I could register the car in Germany where I live. Recommendations: Replace bad or dead battery 24 hours after removing old one with the exact battery specifications GM/Corvette requires. The second is to find a garage that does not overcharge on shop time all the while claiming he/she is the only GM qualified mechanic or garage to do the work. 
It was no simple problem and took the mechanic; (who charges $190.00 an hour) about 40 man hours to fix. First problem was a bad brake switch – the one that is engaged/pressed to start the car. It had a short and was draining the battery. Second problem was replacing the battery without a proper size (800 cranking amp). Never go cheap on a battery for a Corvette – it really screws up the computers. Third problem was a wire which was part of the wiring harness being ground to the frame of the car. This harness was modified (homologation) to German specs so I could register the car in Germany where I live. Recommendations: Replace bad or dead battery 24 hours after removing old one with the exact battery specifications GM/Corvette requires. The second is to find a garage that does not overcharge on shop time all the while claiming he/she is the only GM qualified mechanic or garage to do the work.
06-26-2017, 04:13 PM
#39
Instructor
no start?
ARGH!!! You both have/had good battery - power goes off for a fixed amount of time - power returns. That is a bad cable connection. The power is going off when the starter motor is engaged and tries to draw several hundred amps through a faulty connection. The power comes back on when the BCM sees that the starter isn't doing what it was supposed to do and turns the starter motor off. OP, your issue was probably at the battery since a cable was disconnected and reconnected when the shift lever was worked on. Foley, your issue is more likely at the starter solenoid. A lot of people have reported loose connections at the starter solenoid which eventually will melt the connection if not cleaned and tightened.
Feel free to prove me wrong.
Feel free to prove me wrong.
06-26-2017, 04:28 PM
#40
Instructor
no start
All the lights should not go out when you try to start UNLESS there is an issue with the battery or a connection.
It WOULD shut all power off and back on in the same amount of time if there were a timer in the ECM to only run the starter for a fixed amount of time with no start which there is.
So all the power does NOT go off. The dash lights are designed to go off during engine crank. So now the issue ISN'T power to the rest of the car going off when you try to crank but just that the starter solenoid isn't being powered to crank the engine. That's an entirely different and much simpler problem than all the lights going out when you try to crank. That's just a bad crank relay or connection or, more likely, lack of one of the safety permits such as a brake/clutch switch or transmission position switch. The "no crank" diagnostic should find that quickly because it is now a single issue instead of unrelated systems failing simultaneously.
It WOULD shut all power off and back on in the same amount of time if there were a timer in the ECM to only run the starter for a fixed amount of time with no start which there is.
So all the power does NOT go off. The dash lights are designed to go off during engine crank. So now the issue ISN'T power to the rest of the car going off when you try to crank but just that the starter solenoid isn't being powered to crank the engine. That's an entirely different and much simpler problem than all the lights going out when you try to crank. That's just a bad crank relay or connection or, more likely, lack of one of the safety permits such as a brake/clutch switch or transmission position switch. The "no crank" diagnostic should find that quickly because it is now a single issue instead of unrelated systems failing simultaneously.