Lowering on stock bolts - what the hell am I doing wrong?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Lowering on stock bolts - what the hell am I doing wrong?
Edit: For anyone still viewing this I wanted to post what actually happened. I tried everything possible and they just wouldn't budge. Eventually I took my car into a shop and had them do it along with some other work. The bolts were so frozen in place they actually had to replace the entire piece (no idea what it's called it was years ago). He showed me the old one and the new one etc, and it was literally just impossible to take out without destroying the entire piece. So if you're having troubles as bad as I was the same thing may have happened to you.
First of all I apologize for the nasty pictures. It's been raining so everything is filthy. This is my second attempt to lower the front of the car.. I can fit three fingers between the tire and the fender and that has to go. I jack up the car and place a jackstand on the middle spring or whatever it is, and then lower the car slowly and watch the spring raise up from the rest of the car, which takes the load off the bushing.. right? I can fit the wrench under the bushing so it's not touching anything... but then the bolt does not turn at all. I have sprayed both sides with WD40 and tried a plethora of different wrenches and tools to try and make them budge. Even resorting to hitting the wrench with a hammer while it was on to try and crack them loose did not work. I want to do this before I get an alignment in a few weeks so the sooner I get it done the better.
I don't know what else to try.. HELP!
First of all I apologize for the nasty pictures. It's been raining so everything is filthy. This is my second attempt to lower the front of the car.. I can fit three fingers between the tire and the fender and that has to go. I jack up the car and place a jackstand on the middle spring or whatever it is, and then lower the car slowly and watch the spring raise up from the rest of the car, which takes the load off the bushing.. right? I can fit the wrench under the bushing so it's not touching anything... but then the bolt does not turn at all. I have sprayed both sides with WD40 and tried a plethora of different wrenches and tools to try and make them budge. Even resorting to hitting the wrench with a hammer while it was on to try and crack them loose did not work. I want to do this before I get an alignment in a few weeks so the sooner I get it done the better.
I don't know what else to try.. HELP!
Last edited by corvette-kyle; 01-07-2014 at 07:56 PM.
#4
Le Mans Master
I can't really view pics on my iPhone well, but... On one end of the ride hight adjuster you have the bushing and on the other end (the tip) you have a notch that fits a small wrench (maybe 11mm if I remember correctly?) Once the a-arms are lifted enough to take the weight off the RHA's you just turn the notched part of the adjuster in the direction that lowers the car. THE RHA sould turn quite easy.
#5
Racer
I can't really view pics on my iPhone well, but... On one end of the ride hight adjuster you have the bushing and on the other end (the tip) you have a notch that fits a small wrench (maybe 11mm if I remember correctly?) Once the a-arms are lifted enough to take the weight off the RHA's you just turn the notched part of the adjuster in the direction that lowers the car. THE RHA sould turn quite easy.
#6
Le Mans Master
Btw, thought I'd mention...I lowered mine down to just a half inch abovet the tire. It looked sic! But every dip in the road, drive way, speed bump etc was a huge pia. After several broken rad supports (I'm real good at changing them out now) and almost getting rear-ended a handfull of times (because you have to slow for dips) I went back to stock hight.
#10
Melting Slicks
Penetrating oil, lots of it and leave it on overnight (but don't make a mess), then use a long socket wrench or breaker-bar (or pipe section on the end), don't use a box wrench. If you watch the 2 videos above it is pretty simple. You also need to be sure you are turning in the right direction. Good luck ...
#11
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St. Jude Donor '13
Penetrating oil, lots of it and leave it on overnight (but don't make a mess), then use a long socket wrench or breaker-bar (or pipe section on the end), don't use a box wrench. If you watch the 2 videos above it is pretty simple. You also need to be sure you are turning in the right direction. Good luck ...
The dealer adjusted mine and reported both bolts on one end of the car (can't remember front or rear) were frozen, took him a while to get them loose.
Someone posted that his bolts had Loctite on them, but that seems unlikely. Either way, he had to carefully heat them up to get 'em loose. Another guy finally had to remove the transverse spring from the car and clamp the bolt in a vise, used the entire spring as the world's longest breaker bar.
I'm thinking that penetrating oil and patience would be the best way. If overnight doesn't work, wait a few days to see if that helps. Should be ok to drive while waiting.
#12
What year is your vette? I did all 4 wheels and cut some of the rubber off with a electric saw. You have to get the pressure off that cross over spring or you will never turn that bolt. After I jacked mine up, I can turn the bolf with my fingers.
#13
i did my front without the tire leaving the ground, just turn the wheel all the way. Can you raise the height of the car? does the bolt turn the other way?
Last edited by weiland; 12-05-2011 at 04:44 PM. Reason: .
#17
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Are you sure you have all the load off of them? Mine would not move till I took all the load off, then I could turn them by hand.
#19
Race Director
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You know what I think ...
Looking at these cars from the side, the rear is really way too high, but the front aint that bad at all.
I just lowered the rear about an inch by adjusting the rear bolts as far as they would go. Really only lowered it about an inch max.
Now I am ready to cut a little off the rear rubber pads (or bushings, or whatever there called). The *** end of my GS is still too high as far as I'm concerned.
The front is staying at the stock OEM ride height. Even at stock height, the front rubber "air dam" under the car still scrapes everything it comes within 10 feet of!
Just my opinion folks ..
Looking at these cars from the side, the rear is really way too high, but the front aint that bad at all.
I just lowered the rear about an inch by adjusting the rear bolts as far as they would go. Really only lowered it about an inch max.
Now I am ready to cut a little off the rear rubber pads (or bushings, or whatever there called). The *** end of my GS is still too high as far as I'm concerned.
The front is staying at the stock OEM ride height. Even at stock height, the front rubber "air dam" under the car still scrapes everything it comes within 10 feet of!
Just my opinion folks ..
#20
Race Director
Your pics show that you are doing it correctly - keep applying the penetrating oil and letting it soak in ove rnight - even a few days as it can actually take that long...
There is no loctite used in the install of the bolts - it's just age and wear and tear that seizes them up...
There is no loctite used in the install of the bolts - it's just age and wear and tear that seizes them up...