OBX LT Headers ???
#21
Burning Brakes
I'm an idiot, yet you continually defend a Chinese knock-off set of headers that you've never even touched!!! You sir, are the IDIOT!!!
I never said I linked to an OBX thread, but there are plenty of those as well. TNTC4VETTE had a nice one... if I recall there's even one floating around where LG did some comparison testing. Again, I won't spoon feed you though, not my job. If you need someone to wipe your a$$, you need to call your Mama!!!
Go ahead and continue to buy and endorse your Chinese products... It'll all catch up to us one day.
I'm done... no more replies from me!!! OP, hope you know how to use the search function, do your research and make an "Educated" decision.
D
Last edited by BigDs_C6; 10-20-2011 at 12:21 PM.
#22
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I never said I linked to an OBX threadD
Come on man, you're just being silly with this now.
If you need someone to wipe your a$$, you need to call your Mama!!!
I'm quite confident you don't have a clue what you're talking about in regards to these headers.
Again, I won't spoon feed you though
I'm done... no more replies from me!!!
Last edited by FloydSummerOf68; 10-20-2011 at 02:09 PM.
#24
Me too!!! They had ~1000 miles on them and I had absolutely no fit issues what so ever, not to mention the build quality is night and day compared to the OBX's.
As you'll notice, I didn't knock the OBX's in my reply... gotta love it when someone gives you $hit for paying more for a quality, AMERICAN built product!!! That's why this country's in the shape it's in!!!
D
As you'll notice, I didn't knock the OBX's in my reply... gotta love it when someone gives you $hit for paying more for a quality, AMERICAN built product!!! That's why this country's in the shape it's in!!!
D
#25
Burning Brakes
Does this mean they'll have better numbers... NO!!! I never said they would, so I could realy give a rats a$$ about Dyno numbers... I said they were built better, I never said they would perform better!!!
There is a difference, whether it's big really depends on you... what are you looking for? Quality, price, value, fit, finish...
What you're going to find if you do your research is exactly what I found when I was looking to buy mine. Every one is going to back what they have bought!!! They (including myself) will defend it to the end because, in the end, they want to feel that they made a good purchase. In the end, it really comes down to what you feel comfortable buying.
Basically, your options are:
D
Also, Im only defending the OBX because I find it ridiculous to pay a grand or more for headers... I just want people to know you can pay half or more for quality headers
I bought a set of Mesh 8 forged wheels and they are crap. I wouldnt recommend them to anyone. The chrome is peeling and the brushed middle gets dull fast. I wont defend such purchase because Im not happy with it. But I will defend the OBX because it was a good purchase and it saved me roughly about 700 bucks over practically the same thing
quoted for truth!
#26
Burning Brakes
Bottom line is build quality is comparable, I have heard of issues with both American and OBX. Nothing that clearly shows one is better than the other. Performance is comparable , again nothing to show the OBX don't perform as well. Finally coming from someone who has has been beating on these ON THE TRACK including 1 hour enduros I have no complaints and would / will purchase these again.
Only real question is whether or not you want American or Chinese. I have owned both.
For me it was easy, I have a finite budget for car mods and there will always be more mods I want to do. Less money spent per mod = more mods.
Only real question is whether or not you want American or Chinese. I have owned both.
For me it was easy, I have a finite budget for car mods and there will always be more mods I want to do. Less money spent per mod = more mods.
#27
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We'll awesome i think i really want to buy obx headers, I just wanted to see some kind of positive feedback there's always gonna be some negative insights on any product. But if i see someone installed with no issues and sounds good that all i want ... not really worried about the 5-8hp diffrence, Thanks guys ...
How much should install be for obx headers?
How much should install be for obx headers?
#28
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
Very happy with my OBX headers. The hardware they come with is a joke so be prepared to add an additional ~$100 to the cost to buy better clamps and nuts/bolts.
Mine rattle and have rattled since day 1 but I never got back under the car to tighten after a few heat cycles.
I was going to take care of it during the cam install but have yet to get to it. I have a good idea where the rattle/leak is coming from so I don't expect it to be an issue.
Mine rattle and have rattled since day 1 but I never got back under the car to tighten after a few heat cycles.
I was going to take care of it during the cam install but have yet to get to it. I have a good idea where the rattle/leak is coming from so I don't expect it to be an issue.
#29
Burning Brakes
I had a local shop install for $300 cash. They weren't a performance shop and had one of my O2 wires resting pretty close to the LTs but other that that they had no probs. Any reputable place could handle it.
#30
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Here's the deal........
Based on actual experience.....
the material is too thin, I've had to swap them out for a clutch swap and all the clamps/pipe openings/collector flanges basically were plain WEAK
they may be OK for the initial install, but not for the long haul
It's a COPY of Dynatech(loose copy)
When the weld/flange breaks and causes some burnt wires, you are 200 miles away from home..............you see............it's just peace of mind for me to avoid these
Based on actual experience.....
the material is too thin, I've had to swap them out for a clutch swap and all the clamps/pipe openings/collector flanges basically were plain WEAK
they may be OK for the initial install, but not for the long haul
It's a COPY of Dynatech(loose copy)
When the weld/flange breaks and causes some burnt wires, you are 200 miles away from home..............you see............it's just peace of mind for me to avoid these
#31
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Here's the deal........
Based on actual experience.....
the material is too thin, I've had to swap them out for a clutch swap and all the clamps/pipe openings/collector flanges basically were plain WEAK
they may be OK for the initial install, but not for the long haul
It's a COPY of Dynatech(loose copy)
When the weld/flange breaks and causes some burnt wires, you are 200 miles away from home..............you see............it's just peace of mind for me to avoid these
Based on actual experience.....
the material is too thin, I've had to swap them out for a clutch swap and all the clamps/pipe openings/collector flanges basically were plain WEAK
they may be OK for the initial install, but not for the long haul
It's a COPY of Dynatech(loose copy)
When the weld/flange breaks and causes some burnt wires, you are 200 miles away from home..............you see............it's just peace of mind for me to avoid these
That was a nice story, but do you have any proof that you're theory holds any truth in it?
People on LS1tech have been running these copied headers for over 10 years now and I've personally put over 40k miles on my set. At what point should I expect to run into these flanges breaking and welds blowing out?
#32
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Floyd, calm down
If the chance of a failed weld or warped flanges is OK.......then be good with your choice
Stangkiller is in your same town down there outside of Houston
ECS, Vette Doctors, Vengeance, CoW, Ragin Racin', Rapid in PA, RPM(Fran in DE) all use American Racing Headers, (this is a small sample of east coast LSx shops)
I can't argue with the above shops. That's all I have to say here.
If the chance of a failed weld or warped flanges is OK.......then be good with your choice
Stangkiller is in your same town down there outside of Houston
ECS, Vette Doctors, Vengeance, CoW, Ragin Racin', Rapid in PA, RPM(Fran in DE) all use American Racing Headers, (this is a small sample of east coast LSx shops)
I can't argue with the above shops. That's all I have to say here.
#33
Burning Brakes
Floyd, calm down
If the chance of a failed weld or warped flanges is OK.......then be good with your choice
Stangkiller is in your same town down there outside of Houston
ECS, Vette Doctors, Vengeance, CoW, Ragin Racin', Rapid in PA, RPM(Fran in DE) all use American Racing Headers, (this is a small sample of east coast LSx shops)
I can't argue with the above shops. That's all I have to say here.
If the chance of a failed weld or warped flanges is OK.......then be good with your choice
Stangkiller is in your same town down there outside of Houston
ECS, Vette Doctors, Vengeance, CoW, Ragin Racin', Rapid in PA, RPM(Fran in DE) all use American Racing Headers, (this is a small sample of east coast LSx shops)
I can't argue with the above shops. That's all I have to say here.
All we are saying is this:
Want to save some money? Buy OBX. We have them and have no problem so far. Might be lucky and find a used set for even cheaper
Want complete piece of mind and US build quality at a higher cost? Buy 1k+ LTs. There are many brands to choose from.
Either way, you will get good quality stuff.
I enjoy saving money. I actually FEEL BETTER about modding when I find a good deal. I want others to feel the same way.
If I wouldve found something wrong with these, I would have swapped them out and told everyone NOT to buy them
#34
Burning Brakes
Very happy with my OBX headers. The hardware they come with is a joke so be prepared to add an additional ~$100 to the cost to buy better clamps and nuts/bolts.
Mine rattle and have rattled since day 1 but I never got back under the car to tighten after a few heat cycles.
I was going to take care of it during the cam install but have yet to get to it. I have a good idea where the rattle/leak is coming from so I don't expect it to be an issue.
Mine rattle and have rattled since day 1 but I never got back under the car to tighten after a few heat cycles.
I was going to take care of it during the cam install but have yet to get to it. I have a good idea where the rattle/leak is coming from so I don't expect it to be an issue.
I did buy new wires and plugs. he said since he had to remove them for the install, might as well change them out, no?
Here's the deal........
Based on actual experience.....
the material is too thin, I've had to swap them out for a clutch swap and all the clamps/pipe openings/collector flanges basically were plain WEAK
they may be OK for the initial install, but not for the long haul
It's a COPY of Dynatech(loose copy)
When the weld/flange breaks and causes some burnt wires, you are 200 miles away from home..............you see............it's just peace of mind for me to avoid these
Based on actual experience.....
the material is too thin, I've had to swap them out for a clutch swap and all the clamps/pipe openings/collector flanges basically were plain WEAK
they may be OK for the initial install, but not for the long haul
It's a COPY of Dynatech(loose copy)
When the weld/flange breaks and causes some burnt wires, you are 200 miles away from home..............you see............it's just peace of mind for me to avoid these
#35
Burning Brakes
http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-08-6-0L-C...item23152ba47c
looks like a good deal to me!headers,cats and midpipe for 700$
looks like a good deal to me!headers,cats and midpipe for 700$
#36
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Floyd, calm down
If the chance of a failed weld or warped flanges is OK.......then be good with your choice
Stangkiller is in your same town down there outside of Houston
ECS, Vette Doctors, Vengeance, CoW, Ragin Racin', Rapid in PA, RPM(Fran in DE) all use American Racing Headers, (this is a small sample of east coast LSx shops)
I can't argue with the above shops. That's all I have to say here.
If the chance of a failed weld or warped flanges is OK.......then be good with your choice
Stangkiller is in your same town down there outside of Houston
ECS, Vette Doctors, Vengeance, CoW, Ragin Racin', Rapid in PA, RPM(Fran in DE) all use American Racing Headers, (this is a small sample of east coast LSx shops)
I can't argue with the above shops. That's all I have to say here.
My shop said they hadn't used them and just automatically recomended ARH, LG, etc because that was the norm in the business, but seeing these they didn't see any difference in quality.
When something is so much cheaper people always have to say well they are cheap because they are made cheap and won't last. I have run mine at the track and had no issues with them at all, just like most that have posted here.
I'm sure we can find as many people had issues with ARH and LG if we looked hard enough.
#37
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
Really? I spent 40 bucks on some new manifold gaskets( I think you have to with every set of headers) but returned them when I installer said the stock ones were perfectly fine
I did buy new wires and plugs. he said since he had to remove them for the install, might as well change them out, no?
Wow, I hope this was an isolated incident because that does sound scary. Although Ive never heard of that happening to anyone with OBX headers on their LSXs. Care to elaborate???
I did buy new wires and plugs. he said since he had to remove them for the install, might as well change them out, no?
Wow, I hope this was an isolated incident because that does sound scary. Although Ive never heard of that happening to anyone with OBX headers on their LSXs. Care to elaborate???
I also ordered OEM header gaskets but the stock ones looked damn near perfect. I decided to use the new ones anyway to eliminate any potential for issue. Copper coat+brand new OEM gaskets+correct torque spec=almost no chance of leaking at the head/header connection.
#38
Burning Brakes
http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-08-6-0L-C...item23152ba47c
looks like a good deal to me!headers,cats and midpipe for 700$
looks like a good deal to me!headers,cats and midpipe for 700$
replacements for the cats... if you offer 650, I think they will take it.
The HARDWARE is garbage--that means the nuts, washers, clamps, and bolts. The hardware mine came with were literally rusted and could not be used. That was ok though, because I was prepared for it as I had done a lot of research on OBX before purchasing and knew that would be something that needed to be addressed.
I also ordered OEM header gaskets but the stock ones looked damn near perfect. I decided to use the new ones anyway to eliminate any potential for issue. Copper coat+brand new OEM gaskets+correct torque spec=almost no chance of leaking at the head/header connection.
I also ordered OEM header gaskets but the stock ones looked damn near perfect. I decided to use the new ones anyway to eliminate any potential for issue. Copper coat+brand new OEM gaskets+correct torque spec=almost no chance of leaking at the head/header connection.
#39
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I absolutely love these threads, so much drama who needs springer or days of our lives. Just ask a question like: part "A" American or domestic? and it always turns ugly. Like everything else in this world I think the answer comes down to personal preference. Some good things some bad. You are paying less for the imports so you can "afford" to pay to have some fitment issues corrected. Buy what your pocket book can afford and be happy.. its just bent pipe for christs sake, Were not comparing cardiac pacemakers here. As a side note.... GO TEXAS RANGERS!!!!!!!
Last edited by VictoryVette; 10-21-2011 at 12:23 AM.
#40
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I absolutely love these threads, so much drama who needs springer or days of our lives. Just ask a question like: part "A" American or domestic? and it always turns ugly. Like everything else in this world I think the answer comes down to personal preference. Some good things some bad. You are paying less for the imports so you can "afford" to pay to have some fitment issues corrected. Buy what your pocket book can afford and be happy.. its just bent pipe for christs sake, Were not comparing cardiac pacemakers here. As a side note.... GO TEXAS RANGERS!!!!!!!