JG2006Z51

I have a 2006 Z51 with the original brakes. They squeek like crazy!! I understand this is a well known issue and is considered "normal" for 05 and 06s with Z51 package, but its driving me nuts. My question is: was the squeeking issue fixed in 07 or later and can i solve the issue by simply replacing my pads with newer ones? I called a few dealers and they were all unsure. Figured you guys would know. Thanks!

EVRose

Ceramic pads usually eliminate the squeak.

widgetsupply

Yea, the squeak went away when I had ceramics installed. The problem was that I got a squeel that was ten times worse. Kind of like when you run your finger around a wine glass. Eventually, they did get better but it was a long time. Maybe replacing rotors at the same time would have been better. I think it is a crap shoot from what I have read. Sometimes it works sometimes not.

You have high performance brakes. Use them that way to minimize the squeal. Of course, you cannot always do this but being more agressive with them will help.

EVRose

I have Z51 also and they do squeak a bit when I'm coming to a stop but it's a faint one I can hardly hear and I live with it. The dust is bad though.

Tally Ho

My 06 Z51 optioned car started squealing at 5K miles. I installed GM ceramics and no more squeal or dust. I'm just under 20K miles now. I do a lot of stop and go and the ceramics have held up well.

Mark VerMurlen

I have an '09 Z51 Coupe and I've not had any squeal at all from the stock pads. So they don't all do it.

- Mark

TMyers

All high performance brakes will squeal. You can minimize this by brake harder. Going to ceramic pads will normally quite it down but even thing if you are person how uses you brakes lightly even they can squeal.

FastGhost

Replace them with GM Ceramic pads. Make sure if you do it yourself to follow the instructions on the areas to apply grease to. Then a good bedding in of the new brake pads. This should eliminate the squeal and the dust. GL

LTC Z06

JerriVette

I have 41 k miles on my 08 Z51 and once in a while they squeek...sometimes for a few days and then it stops.. for a few months...and then it comes back...

Supposed to be normal for high performance applications..

Good luck on your quest...

JG2006Z51

Thanks to everyone!! Feedback is incredibly helpful.

Any estimate on cost to have ceramic pads installed? Seems like its worth a try to make this annoying squeek stop.

Meantime i am going to take the advice regarding hard breaking, though i doubt that will be anything but a short term fix, at best.

KenHorse

I went to ceramics about 10K miles ago. They stopped the squeal for a month or so and then it returned. Although it seems to be mostly one rotor/brake doing it (passenger rear). I have an '07 with 58K on the clock

Although the rotor doesn't seem glazed and I used anti-squeal on the pads when I installed 'em, I'm going to pull the damn thing and make sure.

FastGhost

vetteright:

Your squealing problem probably has more to do with lack of lubrication than anything to do with pad contact with the rotor. The pad brackets should be liberally lubricated in the grooves with high temperature grease. The backs of the pads should also be liberally lubricated also. Most of the squealing issues can be traced to harmonic vibration caused by the caliper piston contacting the dry back of the brake pad during braking. Grease them up good and see if that doesn't stop your squealing issue.
Posted by DT455:


Brake Pad and Rotor Bed-In Procedures





All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder. Here are a few things to keep in mind when installing new rotors and pads:

When installing new pads, the rotors should be new or at least resurfaced to remove any transfer film from the previous set of brake pads.

It is critical that the installer clean any rust, scale, or debris from the hub mounting surface thoroughly and check it for excessive run-out with a dial indicator gauge before installing the rotor.

The new rotor should also be checked for excessive run-out using a dial indicator gauge before the caliper and pads are installed. If a rotor has excessive run-out of over .004" (.10mm) it should be replaced.

If your new rotor has excessive run-out, please contact our customer service department for a replacement rotor. Do not install and drive using the rotor! Rotor manufacturers will not warranty a used rotor for excessive run-out. Running with excessive run-out on the hub or rotor will cause vibration issues.

Failure to follow these procedures may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties in bedding-in the new brake pads. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film. Residue from the previous pad compound on the surface or an irregular surface on a used rotor will cause the pads to grip-slip-grip-slip as they pass over the rotor surface under pressure. The resulting vibration will cause noise and telegraph vibrations through the suspension and steering wheel. This vibration is known as brake judder or brake shimmy. This is typically caused by an uneven transfer film on the rotor surface or an uneven surface on the rotor not allowing that transfer film to develop evenly. This is often misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.

Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:

AKEBONO

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

ATE

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

BREMBO Gran Turismo

In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.

HAWK

After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.

POWER SLOT

Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.

SATISFIED

For Gransport GS6 Carbon Ceramic Pads —

Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.

Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.

During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.

As with any new set of pads, do not tow a trailer or do any hauling during the break-in period.

Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,000 miles.

For all other Satisfied pads —

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

laconiajack

Squealing brakes, rough ride, poor traction in cooler temperatures and in wet weather, skittering and darting on bumpy curves and washboard roads, and tires wearing out twice as fast as normal is all part of the Z51 experience. This option was clearly recommended for those that wanted to autocross, not for everyday driving. Enjoy!