tjl5709

It took awhile, but I modified the way I swop out my clutch fluid.

Got a couple 40 cc medical syringes with some large needles. One for sucking out bad fluid, the other for filling with clean fluid. Went on the WEB and found some thin black nylon tubing. Stiff walls, but flexible. Dimensions are 0.075 ID and 0.125 OD. Cut it about 18" long.

Process. Suck out the bad fluid from reservoir. Fill syringe with clean fluid. Install long tube. Push out the air. Insert tube down into the clutch line thru hole at the bottom of the reservoir. Squeeze in the fresh fluid. It pushes the dirty stuff out of the line up into the reservoir. Suck out the reservoir again. Fill reservoir to full mark. Done.

Can't believe how much junk this pushed up and out of the line. No more pumping trying to clean out the clutch line.

Easy, peezy, quick and easy.

Boomer111

Wow, sounds like a good idea.

But for my feeble mind I need pics..

You could have a sticky!

Maybe you should start offering kits...

barduch

This is what I like best about this forum. I am definitely going to try your method. Didn't even know the clutch fluid was an issue prior to reading Ranger's post. Now, of course, I am a bit obsessive compulsive about it. Your method should cut down on the time it takes me to satisfy the OCD. Thanks very much for sharing what appears to be an even better solution to the problem.

Ranger, you are the original hydraulic clutch guru, does this get your stamp of approval?

blairR

OK. Sounds great. But where does one get "40 cc medical syringes with some large needless"? A suggestion for where to get the tubing would help as well. Thanks.

Cybernetic Medic

Considering that the black material is dust from clutch wear and has worked its way up from the slave cylinder, what we see in the reservoir is just the tip of the iceberg. The real nasty stuff is between the slave and master cylinders. Unfortunately, it's not easy to flush that fluid without buying and extender for the bleeder valve.

... And the extenders have been known to leak.

robertaj

local corner drugs dealer....duh!

tjl5709

Search for these:

Black Nylon 12 Semi-Rigid Tubing, 0.075" ID, 0.125" OD, 0.025" Wall, 10' Length

Medline DYND20325H Syringe,Piston,Irrigation,60Ml,Steril - 1 EA

veni vidi vert

torque*is*cheap

Try using about 2-3 paper towels. Stuff them in the reservoir, absorb all the old gunk, refill with fresh fluid. Call it the "Cheapskate" method.

I apologize for not doing a tutorial with pics.

blairR

Thanks. Ordered the tubing from amazon using prime for shipping. Ordered the syringe from "HealthCare Supply Pros" all from google search

Rocketmanwpb

I found an automotive syringe at an auto parts store. Came with some tubing, but I don't use it, just insert the syringe into the reservoir and extract all the fluid in one draw.

NORTY

Large syringes can be had @ any equine supply store/co-op.

OregonC6

Sounds like a real improvement in "process" that will make the job easier and get more gunk out.

I continue to be dismayed and disappointed in the factory for:

1/ This design flaw in the first place.

2/ Not fixing this design flaw once it became known.

tjl5709

Yours is how I did it before. The issue is, the feedline down to the master cylinder from the reservoir still contains junked up fluid. By using the thin tubing, you can inject the fluid down by the master cylinder at the bottom of the hose, and push all the junked up fluid up and out into the reservoir. This is about all you can do to clean out the system short of doing a real line bleed of the system, which from what I understand, is a real PITA.

All I can say is, the first time I did it with the thin tube, I was amazed at how much junk came out. This was after having it cleaned previously the way you have listed.

To each his own.........

wolfdogs

the dealer charges 125.00 to do it also, they have to drop the exhaust I was told.

ive used RAngers method twice now and my fluid is staying pretty clear.. but the crap "down under" concerns me.

Boomer111

I agree, with regular "Ranger method changes", my fluid stays clean.

Not sure was is underneath so to speak.

Also I am still not sure where the rubber tube gets attached? So I can find out what is below...

SilverScorp

What gauge needle did you use, 16 or 14?

speedlink

Delbert

You have really perked my interest and I too would appreciate a step by step tutorial from you on how you perform this task. Some photos would be most appreciated. I used the Ranger method after first learning of this issue on the forum. Since that time, my resevoir fluid has been remaining "much clearer" than before, however, as others have stated, I dare not speculate on what lies within the remaining part of the clutch system and cylinders.

Thanks for sharing your system so far.

tjl5709

Here is my latest design that seems to work best for me. I replaced the needles with some tubing as it allows for better flow.

These are 60CC Syringes.

The one on the left is used to remove (suck out) bad material from the clutch reservoir. I stuck a small piece of small engine gas line into it to extend the end.

The one on the right is used to inject new fluid. I found access to some tubing that has connections that screw directly into the syringe. The short piece I use to extract good fluid from the Dot 4 Brake fluid container. Once I fill the syringe with new fluid, I change tubes to the black tube. I invert the syringe and pump material to remove air. I insert the long black tube down into the reservoir feed tube at the bottom of the clutch reservoir (small hole at the bottom). Once I insert it all the way in, I inject the good material in, it then pushes the bad fluid up into the reservoir, thus cleaning out the fluid line. I then remove the material from the reservoir, and refill with good fluid. If you can't find the tubing that screws into the syringe (medical supply), then you can try the small engine gas line.

Again, the intent is to remove as much as possible all of the clutch fluid. This basically eliminates the pumping one needs to do with Rangers original method, and for me, does a better job of changing out the fluid. The only way to better change the fluid is to have the system bled.

Steps:

1) Use syringe to suck out fluid from reservoir (just like the ranger method)
2) Fill second syringe with new fluid.
3) Install long black tube on syringe that is filled with new fluid.
4) Invert syringe and squeeze some fluid out to purge out air from the black tubing (just like the nurse before she/he jabs ya).
5) Insert long black tube down the hole located in the bottom of the reservoir
6) Inject new fluid into clutch fluid feedline. Old fluid gets pumped up into reservior.
7) Pull out the syringe and black tube.
8) Use the removal syringe to suck the bad fluid from reservoir that used to be down in the feedline.
9) Fill reservoir with fresh fluid to fill mark.
10) Clean-up