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$50 dollars to remove road noise/exhaust drone :)

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Old 06-03-2011, 09:36 AM
  #101  
d.medic
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Originally Posted by FloydSummerOf68
Thanks

1600 is a killer when you have longtubes and a loud exhaust.
You guys save some for me, I can't get to Lowes till Saturday
Old 06-03-2011, 10:09 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by j_digi454
Actually it's a killer even with GM OEM exhaust. I added the NPP exhaust a couple of years ago, no drone with the valves closed. I recently added the ARH long tube headers with hi-flow cats and now I can't get rid of the drone even with the valves closed. As you mentioned, 1600 rpm is the worst and I have to be below 62 mph or above 75 mph to get rid of it.

Autos (A6) are tough because of their gearing, 256 rear. I'm hoping your solution works as you mentioned it reduced the drone but you have not stated that it eliminated it and I'm looking for total elimination. Correct me if I'm wrong. Anyway, great writeup and info. Thanks.
My drone was at a different frequency on low rpm's. It is almost eliminated by the deadening material. The secondary x pipe going in along with some Helmholtz resonators to fine tune the end.
Old 06-03-2011, 10:40 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by j_digi454
Actually it's a killer even with GM OEM exhaust. I added the NPP exhaust a couple of years ago, no drone with the valves closed. I recently added the ARH long tube headers with hi-flow cats and now I can't get rid of the drone even with the valves closed. As you mentioned, 1600 rpm is the worst and I have to be below 62 mph or above 75 mph to get rid of it.

Autos (A6) are tough because of their gearing, 256 rear. I'm hoping your solution works as you mentioned it reduced the drone but you have not stated that it eliminated it and I'm looking for total elimination. Correct me if I'm wrong. Anyway, great writeup and info. Thanks.
Mine is definitely not eliminated at this point. It GREATLY reduced drone at 1500 rpms and 1700rpms (estimates based on the tach) but at 1600rpms there is still very noticeable drone with my setup, which is why I'm going back in to cover a bit more like Presidentialpawn did. 1600 is better now, but I've still got some work to do

Originally Posted by Presidentialpawn
My drone was at a different frequency on low rpm's. It is almost eliminated by the deadening material. The secondary x pipe going in along with some Helmholtz resonators to fine tune the end.
Old 06-03-2011, 11:02 AM
  #104  
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Next time you are driving say 30 miles reach under your back carpet and feel the P&S tape. That stuff is so hot it will almost burn your hand. I can not believe how hot that floor gets. I did notice a slight Tar smell when i got in the car after it sat in 100+ degree heat all day. It was not bad and went away the second I started the car. No I did not use foil tape over the P&S because I want to add one more roll. The foil tape takes care of any Tar smell correct?
Old 06-03-2011, 11:06 AM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by Crowhater
Next time you are driving say 30 miles reach under your back carpet and feel the P&S tape. That stuff is so hot it will almost burn your hand. I can not believe how hot that floor gets. I did notice a slight Tar smell when i got in the car after it sat in 100+ degree heat all day. It was not bad and went away the second I started the car. No I did not use foil tape over the P&S because I want to add one more roll. The foil tape takes care of any Tar smell correct?
Why would I stick my hand under the carpet? I have no doubt the floor of the car gets hot. I felt my carpet after sitting in the sun for 2.5 hours and I noticed no irregular heat.

Did you overlap the peel and seal? I didn't use any tape either but haven't had a smell at all. People who did said the tape sealed it all in though.
Old 06-03-2011, 11:09 AM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by FloydSummerOf68
Mine is definitely not eliminated at this point. It GREATLY reduced drone at 1500 rpms and 1700rpms (estimates based on the tach) but at 1600rpms there is still very noticeable drone with my setup, which is why I'm going back in to cover a bit more like Presidentialpawn did. 1600 is better now, but I've still got some work to do
Keep us posted as to your progress.

I am planning on ARH adding resonators which they say will eliminate the drone. I still plan on duplicating your process to eliminate any residual drone, if any, and to reduce road noise.
Old 06-03-2011, 03:32 PM
  #107  
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Ok, here's an update.

1 roll weighs exactly 3 pounds and 8.7 ounces. I unrolled it and took out the middle cardboard piece so it would be precise. After 5 rolls I haven't even quite added 20 pounds

[IMG][/IMG]

1 roll is JUST enough to do two layers behind the front seats. The carpeting behind the front seats just pulls out. It takes less than a minute to get it out and about 5 minutes to get it back in.



After 1 week of 100 degree days in Houston there is no sign of melting in the back. The rear is warm to the touch under the carpet, but I had no problem holding my hand to it and jumping into the back on my knees working for 30 minutes laying down another roll. This was after being out driving for about 1 hour with the weather showing 95 degrees. When I pulled the carpet up there was also no hint of tar. I think the key is really getting the edges to smash down and overlapping when you lay it. I suggest using a paper towel to smash it all down so you don't cut your fingers up.


Last edited by FloydSummerOf68; 06-03-2011 at 03:35 PM.
Old 06-03-2011, 03:40 PM
  #108  
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Did you remove the seats? I'm going to do behind the seats next!
Old 06-03-2011, 03:47 PM
  #109  
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No, you don't need to remove the seats, just push them forward and you have all the room in the world.

In that picture the seats are still in, but there's TONS of room. They weren't even pushed up all the way
Old 06-03-2011, 04:07 PM
  #110  
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Just got back from a drive around the neighborhood and down the street.

I believe I'm totally satisfied now.

I kept it in 4th gear to hit 1500, 1600 and 1700 rpms and the drone is all but dead. You have to understand that the exhaust is still quite loud, but the drone is what sounded terrible, and I've basically killed it. It'll never be 100% with my setup, but if it was a Catted X-pipe I bet it would be REAL close.

4 rolls in the back and 1 roll behind the seats seems to be the ticket. In the back the focus was around the center 3x3 area. Wheel wells got 1 layer, all of the rear floor got 2 layers, and the center 3x3 portion got 3 layers.

Good luck all!

Tomorrow is a ~200 mile trip to Austin for a wedding, so I'll report back what the wife thinks about it.
Old 06-03-2011, 04:16 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by FloydSummerOf68

I kept it in 4th gear to hit 1500, 1600 and 1700 rpms and the drone is all but dead. You have to understand that the exhaust is still quite loud, but the drone is what sounded terrible, and I've basically killed it. It'll never be 100% with my setup, but if it was a Catted X-pipe I bet i

Tomorrow is a ~200 mile trip to Austin for a wedding, so I'll report back what the wife thinks about it.
Sounds great, no pun intended. I'm now anxious to do it.
Old 06-03-2011, 04:27 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by FloydSummerOf68
Ok, here's an update.

1 roll weighs exactly 3 pounds and 8.7 ounces. I unrolled it and took out the middle cardboard piece so it would be precise. After 5 rolls I haven't even quite added 20 pounds

[IMG][/IMG]

1 roll is JUST enough to do two layers behind the front seats. The carpeting behind the front seats just pulls out. It takes less than a minute to get it out and about 5 minutes to get it back in.



After 1 week of 100 degree days in Houston there is no sign of melting in the back. The rear is warm to the touch under the carpet, but I had no problem holding my hand to it and jumping into the back on my knees working for 30 minutes laying down another roll. This was after being out driving for about 1 hour with the weather showing 95 degrees. When I pulled the carpet up there was also no hint of tar. I think the key is really getting the edges to smash down and overlapping when you lay it. I suggest using a paper towel to smash it all down so you don't cut your fingers up.



I did not overlap mine and I did not get all the edges down 100% perfect. When I get my car back and put down the second layer I will make it right.
Old 06-03-2011, 04:39 PM
  #113  
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I think that's probably why you're getting a smell.

I wouldn't lie to you guys. I have absolutely NO smell in my car and I think it's due to care in installation.
Old 06-03-2011, 07:37 PM
  #114  
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[IMG][/IMG] Just to remind you to do the floor under the car.
Old 06-03-2011, 07:50 PM
  #115  
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Marking the holes for drilling.[IMG][/IMG]
My buddy Chad from Midas with the cross pipe welded in.[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG]The mid pipe mounted in. Sorry for the black paint.[/IMG]

The above shows you the location of the cross pipe. You can use any diameter pipe. Make sure the exhaust is only drilled with a 1/2 inch bit, don't make any huge holes in the main pipes. What you are doing is creating a resonating chamber for both sides without restricting the exhaust. My car had become very quiet after adding the Peel&Seal and welding in the cross resonating chamber. What had happened in reality- some of the annoying low frequencies were killed by the addition of the pipe.
Old 06-03-2011, 08:19 PM
  #116  
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I have done some research on sound deadening and in particular resonance. What I found is that you don't need to cover everything with sound deadening material. The trick is to find the panels that go into resonance by rapping on them with your knuckles. The ones that resonate are the offending areas. You only need to put a patch about 1/3 the size of the panel in the center of the panel. You should use a good quality material like Dynamat because it has weight and a visco-elastic material. You need the weight and the visco elastic material to dampen and change the frequency of the offending panels. The weight is important so lighter isn't necessarily better. However, because you aren't covering the entire panel the total weight isn't too bad.

Resonance can also be transferred into the car structure through the exhaust hangers. You can try adding a little weight to a longest length of the exhaust pipe to see if that changes the frequency.

Hope this helps.
Old 06-03-2011, 08:19 PM
  #117  
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Interesting idea, and cool application of the Peel and Seal.

Thanks for sharing

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Old 06-03-2011, 09:00 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by Presidentialpawn
[IMG][/IMG] Just to remind you to do the floor under the car.
How is the peel and seal holding up attached to the floorboards on the outside of the car? How long has it been since you did the install? Any separation issues?

Thanks for the pictures.... Looks good!
Old 06-03-2011, 10:05 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by 01vetter
I have done some research on sound deadening and in particular resonance. What I found is that you don't need to cover everything with sound deadening material. The trick is to find the panels that go into resonance by rapping on them with your knuckles. The ones that resonate are the offending areas. You only need to put a patch about 1/3 the size of the panel in the center of the panel. You should use a good quality material like Dynamat because it has weight and a visco-elastic material. You need the weight and the visco elastic material to dampen and change the frequency of the offending panels. The weight is important so lighter isn't necessarily better. However, because you aren't covering the entire panel the total weight isn't too bad.

Resonance can also be transferred into the car structure through the exhaust hangers. You can try adding a little weight to a longest length of the exhaust pipe to see if that changes the frequency.

Hope this helps.
That's all basically true...unfortunately it doesn't really apply to this thread because you're talking about using a different material all together.

This is a cheaper, effective alternative.
Old 06-03-2011, 11:26 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by Rossi6998
How is the peel and seal holding up attached to the floorboards on the outside of the car? How long has it been since you did the install? Any separation issues?

Thanks for the pictures.... Looks good!
If you misplace it on a flat surface it takes a long time to remove. It is almost impossible to peel this stuff off . I think I bought the car in January 2011. No melting even in the engine compartment. Don't put it on the exhaust- too hot it will melt.


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