Jimmy 2 Times

So my car is having lock/unlock problems and i can only open the car from the trunk cable, or the cable handles in the car. The dealer claims "they think the bcm is bad." but they won't know for sure unless they replace this at a cost of $695. Once replaced they can try again. To me, this is half assed approach. My car starts, runs and drivers perfectly. There are no codes, (scanned minutes before i dropped it off at the dealership) and both fob batteries and car battery are brand new. The doors just don't want to open. If it is the bcm, fine, i will gladly pay for it, but to just replace parts with no troubleshooting seems crazy to me. (and while we are at it, i frequently get the "NO FOB DETECTED" when trying to start, which to me seems more like RCDLR than BCM)

So, my question next is, if they do replace the bcm, and it is not the culprit, can i dispute the charges?

there is also no aftermarket parts on the car with the exception of the exhaust, both OEM radio and Amp was reinstalled into the car to to eliminate that. I don't really have a relationship with this dealer, i have only gone to them for a few minor warranty problems, but they have always been helpful.

do i have a leg to stand on with this, or should I try another shop. Right now, i am only on the hook for the initial diagnosis charges
thanks

Junglepeanut

I work in the service industry. Whether you can argue or not depends on the Disney quality
And overhead of the service provider.

I think our policy is reasonable

Send it in for repair at our site and we do all the troubleshooting and send you a final repair quote. If you choose not to repair you pay the diagnosis fee (flat). If you repair it the diagnosis fee is waived. We normal take a hit on the diagnosis fee but at least it's not a zero.
If you troubleshoot on your own you buy all the parts. When you return they are inspected and if they pass then their is a return fee that changes based on time they were with you (- restocking fee) over 90 days you can't return it.
If you are troubleshooting with us remotely supporting you (you are actively supporting yourself by giving us good data) then we waive the restocking fee since we believe we are providing you with the correct part.
If you shotgun the issue even with us supporting due to your production emergency then you fall in the restocking fee category.

That being said a good repeat customer who rarely asks for special treatment can get the world when they ask.

I am not sure if this answers your question but best of luck.

Jimmy 2 Times

i would agree everything you said, but will the dealer?

i should also note, I am not looking for a freebie or a hand out, i just don't want to throw money out for lack of troubleshooting on their part

Don-Vette

Did you clean the door pads? could be as simple as that.

Change the fob battery?

Year of car?

Sounds like the dealer is a brainless idiot, I'm sure there are ways to test the BCM before replacing it.

Knob Jockey

I'm with Don on this. There are several things to check before replacing the BCM.

Typical dealer approach when they don't really have a clue about a problem is to start throwing parts at the car until they find the right one.

If this is not a warranty repair, check your Regional Forum for recommendations from the 'locals' for a shop you can trust.

Jimmy 2 Times

to answer, it is 08
both fob and car batteries are brand new, were both purchased Sunday

and i am under the same conclusion, throwing parts is not the way to troubleshoot.

jrose7004

I'd go to someone other than the dealer to check it out. Get a second opinion if you will.

Red08

You can dispute anything, but make sure you have all your ducks in a row. The dealer wanting to replace the BCM to see if that is the problem reminds me of Nancy Pilosi's famous quote..."we need to pass this bill to see what's in it".

RobLo

Start with the easiest thing first, take the door handles off, clean them up and reinstall. There's plenty of info on how to do this on the Forum, maybe even a YouTube video. I had a similar problem with the drivers side door, worked intermittently. I cleaned it and eventually bought 2 new ones, about $20 each, cheap enough. I don't like their "I THINK it's the BCM" approach...good luck!

gordosoar

I had the same problem. I took the door handle off, cleaned it and it started working, but still wasn't 100% so I bought a new part for $12.00 ebay and now it work 100% every time.
At that price it's not worth the time it takes to clean them.
Takes all of 2 minutes to change them out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2013-Ch...RYf9Xw&vxp=mtr

codyc24

My 08 did the same thing. I replaced the actual door latch actuator(the part the door latch goes into on the door jam) really easy to do and cost me $100 to do it myself and not have any issues after that.

Landru

Disputing charges after the fact is like refusing to pay for a steak after its been eaten. Be their argument, bank on it.
Might be wrong but methinks GM has its butt covered in the service contract everyone signs when turning their car over for service.
It'd be in the proverbial fine print as it always is.

POs me to no end 'modern' computerized systems w/ scads of modules and hundreds of codes. Yet, mysterious issues continue requiring diagnostic time to the moon, forget parts.

OP, find another shop.
Hopefully you've more than one Chev dealer around, better yet a reputable HP shop ideally specializing in Corvettes of every generation.
G/L

Jimmy 2 Times

Also, I replaced the touch pads and latches and bought a 2nd latch just for the hell of it. No dice


I called a local corvette shop and they agree, dealers diagnosis was not very good. So I will be taking it to them. I will pay for the dealers time and drive to a respected shop.

Also, if anyone questions my knowledge, I am a master electrician, and checked what I could with a dmm before hesitantly bringing to them. I know that tech2 has much more that what I could do with a meter or scope. I did not let the dealer know this prior. So I went in there as average joe.

Guess we we will see when I go to pick up

ls1121

I wouldn't give them a dime and I would advertise who you are dealing with so none of us get stuck with this schmuck. I've had my car to 3 different dealers that are clueless, had to call Detroit to get satisfaction.
Tell us who this meathead is.

buckmeister2

Keep your lesson learned in mind. Your car is out of warranty. You are not viewed by the dealer as a repeat new car buyer. The dealer likely does not give a crap about anything but your money. Take your car to someone who likes Corvettes, and likes to fix them as much as they like your money, which is what you are doing this time.

Boilerman

As for disputing any charges at any auto repair shop, always read the small print on the work order you sign as most have verbiage that protects the repair facility from what you can do as far as disputing charges, in short you sign your right away at some of the shops I have been in, they have all sorts of disclaimers in the small print on the back of the form.
I am not sure about Chevy dealerships?

Jimmy 2 Times

well, picked up the car, was not happy. Caught the service writer and the tech in a lie, and they broke my key fob to boot. They told me "oh the corvette fobs alway break when you change the batteries" That will be fight number 2 as their parts dept was closed

oh well lesson learned.

AORoads

I don't know who is your trusted shop, but for a dealer in Phila. area, Bryner is pretty well known for helping/doing good work on Corvettes (not so close). For an indie shop, I use County Corvettes (if that's your shop, you've selected well).

RocketDawg

I suppose you could dispute the charges, but not legitimately if they told you beforehand that they basically don't know what they're doing and have no analysis capability. They've told you that it might not fix your issue (meaning they really have no idea); had they not said that, disputing the charges might be better justified.

At any rate, you probably should take it somewhere else since they don't seem to be very competent.