Garage build stage 3: 2-post lift planning, install, and usage (PICS)
#1
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Garage build stage 3: 2-post lift planning, install, and usage (PICS)
Stage 3 of my garage build (Stage 1 was the garage itself, Stage 2 was the floor which I posted about earlier) is now complete. More stages coming soon.
After much research, I finally decided on a Challenger VS-10. I laid out the columns using Rhino Ramps which closely approximate the column size. My garage is 25'3" deep and the ceiling height is 13'0" at the center, and my goal was to put the columns as far back as possible while still allowing room to park (small) cars between them and the overhead door, even if it was "tight." While I never plan to own 5 cars, it doesn't hurt to plan. I also needed to ensure enough room behind them to lift any vehicle up to a large SUV (I don't own one, but friends do).
I had it professionally installed by a skilled local shop. They took their time and did a great job. The lower stops aren't adjusted quite right (from the factory), so they have to come out and re-shim the carriages, but the lift works and I can at least get working on cars now. No comments about the electrical wire - I obviously only set that up as a "quickie" to get the lift running and will re-do it this weekend properly
Next up I need to finish electrical, compressor lines, and then get HVAC and insulation installed.
Pictures are not modified or cleaned up - this is just how they came out of the camera so please forgive any bad lighting or contrast, etc.
Want to know a cool but unexpected benefit of having a lift? For those of us with bad knees and/or backs (I'm not that old yet, but it's happening already!) it helps with washing/polishing and detailing. You can get the wheels, rockers, and lower door areas right up to eye level.
Such as:
After much research, I finally decided on a Challenger VS-10. I laid out the columns using Rhino Ramps which closely approximate the column size. My garage is 25'3" deep and the ceiling height is 13'0" at the center, and my goal was to put the columns as far back as possible while still allowing room to park (small) cars between them and the overhead door, even if it was "tight." While I never plan to own 5 cars, it doesn't hurt to plan. I also needed to ensure enough room behind them to lift any vehicle up to a large SUV (I don't own one, but friends do).
I had it professionally installed by a skilled local shop. They took their time and did a great job. The lower stops aren't adjusted quite right (from the factory), so they have to come out and re-shim the carriages, but the lift works and I can at least get working on cars now. No comments about the electrical wire - I obviously only set that up as a "quickie" to get the lift running and will re-do it this weekend properly
Next up I need to finish electrical, compressor lines, and then get HVAC and insulation installed.
Pictures are not modified or cleaned up - this is just how they came out of the camera so please forgive any bad lighting or contrast, etc.
Want to know a cool but unexpected benefit of having a lift? For those of us with bad knees and/or backs (I'm not that old yet, but it's happening already!) it helps with washing/polishing and detailing. You can get the wheels, rockers, and lower door areas right up to eye level.
Such as:
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Brian - ** I am no longer associated with PFYC.com **
Brian - ** I am no longer associated with PFYC.com **
#2
Racer
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Southern New Jersey
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That's really a nice looking lift and garage setup. I've always loved earth-toned bricks, and I love the look of your building. 2x6 studs for the walls, man, you don't mess around!
I may get a low rise scissor lift in the future, but I'd love to have one of those!
TomZ
I may get a low rise scissor lift in the future, but I'd love to have one of those!
TomZ
#6
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Thank you. Only the rear wall is 2x6. I should have made them all 2x6 in retrospect. But it'll be well insulated (mostly R-15 walls, with the rear wall R-19 and the ceiling and rafters in R-30). My garage door is R-13 which is great for a garage door, so the mini split HVAC I have on order should do the job nicely.
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#9
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#10
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I just sold the car this past weekend but it was nice while it lasted.
It's also cool that so many people here know what the plate means. I get a lot of head scratching when people see it and ask what it means.
It's also cool that so many people here know what the plate means. I get a lot of head scratching when people see it and ask what it means.
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#14
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: Pottsboro; Sometimes Dallas Texas
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St. Jude Donor '12
Thank you. Only the rear wall is 2x6. I should have made them all 2x6 in retrospect. But it'll be well insulated (mostly R-15 walls, with the rear wall R-19 and the ceiling and rafters in R-30). My garage door is R-13 which is great for a garage door, so the mini split HVAC I have on order should do the job nicely.
The garage/shop is 40X60 with three bays. The walls are 16ft with 4/12 roof. Three roll-up doors each 10ft wide and 12ft. tall. I had seals (strips of rubber) added to top of doors to seal them up in the natural gap (their roller design) since they face North. I installed a independent 200 amp electrical service (all square D equip). I had 4 high capacity exhaust vents with one cupola on roof for excellent ventilaion (admittedly overkill-only needed three but with cupola it had to have a 4th). It has 5 windows in south back wall with one large sliding window on west wall w/wide walk door and a wide walk door on south wall as well. East wall is solid wall. I had 4 inch insulation added to walls and roof which has foil backing (faces out) and vinyl back layer. EXCELLENT insulation for this part of country. I have the bathroom framed up with wood. It sits southeast corner of shop warmest area to help prevent pipes freezing since not heat yet (have a 130,000 btu portable kerosene at present). It's 10X16 with french drain in center for steam shower (not yet completed). I used high output overhead lighting (3 dual bulb 8ft fixtures-one per bay) and it lights up pretty well. I plan to add in two more for intense brightness when I want it.
The last thing I had done I had asked my builder to weld up a mezinine which has added 760 sq ft of storage space off the main floor. It's 12 ft high so I have to use ladder to get onto it. I did not want stairs. (I may change my mind on that). My reasoning is a 4 post lift for anything I want to put up there. I still have scaffolding up in the first bay. I'm going to wire in two additional overhead light circuits and three circuits for auto roll-up door motors (last thing I'm going to do. 4500 for three) before I take scafold down. I also just completed the wiring and speaker install for my sound system. Sounds awesome with the wide open space. Used Techniques loud speakers and Infinity studio monitor for speakers and Sony amp with sub woofer. Really sounds great.
Still thinking about: 1) HVAC-will cost me a small fortune to cool/heat that size space-this after all is just a hobby and a long time desire 2) floor 3) storage bins/cabinets/shelves 4) framing up a area off bathroom that can be heated/cooled. I have water cooler and full fridge w/ice maker. Thought about mini bar.
I tried to post pics but my pics are too many (dpi-can't be more than 500x800 I think it said) and it will not allow me to post them.
Next should be floors before anything else is built. So how do I overcome the problem of sealer on concrete?
I really like your brick. Later after everything else is done I may have brick added 3 ft up around my bldg to match house. It does have nice curb appeal for steel bldg....dam wish this system would let me post pics. I do have them posted on my facebook if interested.
Lift? 2 or 4 post? What made you choose 2 post?
BTW....you really have a nice setup going on.....I sometimes wish I would have done a smaller version because I did not think of the cooling/heating bill every month....
Last edited by tim414; 12-13-2010 at 12:58 PM.
#15
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I too am in the middle of a garage build (I call my man cave!!). You can't paint the floor if sealer is on it. Any ideas anybody?
Still thinking about: 1) HVAC-will cost me a small fortune to cool/heat that size space-this after all is just a hobby and a long time desire
I really like your brick. Later after everything else is done I may have brick added 3 ft up around my bldg to match house. It does have nice curb appeal for steel bldg....dam wish this system would let me post pics. I do have them posted on my facebook if interested.
Lift? 2 or 4 post? What made you choose 2 post?
Still thinking about: 1) HVAC-will cost me a small fortune to cool/heat that size space-this after all is just a hobby and a long time desire
I really like your brick. Later after everything else is done I may have brick added 3 ft up around my bldg to match house. It does have nice curb appeal for steel bldg....dam wish this system would let me post pics. I do have them posted on my facebook if interested.
Lift? 2 or 4 post? What made you choose 2 post?
You can remove the sealer before doing epoxy or paint. You'll need to use a mechanical grinder such as a diamond grinder, but you're better off contacting a local concrete contractor or supplier and renting a big grinder if possible for that large of a space.
With good insulation, you can probably heat/cool using a few mini-split ductless systems. I'm doing one for heat and cooling and after the tax credit and installation it's probably only around $1k. It would be cheaper for cooling only, but you'd need a larger or a few smaller units to do that large of a space, but it's quite economical and efficient and easy to install.
2-post is more for working on the wheels, suspension, undercarriage, etc. 4-post you can do it, but requires more parts and separate jacks, etc. I wanted to lift the car up and be done with it and ready to work. 4-post is generally for storage more than working.
#17
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