binster

I know this topic has been beat to death before, but looking for some suggestions and see if I am on right track..

Never had the problem before, then it started when I had my front jacked up. I dismissed the prob, thinking I wore my car battery down while doing some work and cleared up after driving the car. It started again (also after having my front end jacked up). This time, it won't seem to go away.

I put a trickle/battery maintainer on and it took about a day before the battery was at full charge.. The fobs (both of them) would not work.. Either the proximity sensor for door unlock or trying to start the car. both fobs worked for opening trunk, unlocking and locking doors. I decided to replace both fob batteries. Still no luck.

I'm thinking my car battery may be on it's last leg.. It's a delco battery and I am assuming it is original in 2006 (where is date code on these?).

I'm going to leave it on the battery maintainer for another day, it is still taking charge.. so maybe that is my problem??

EVRose

If that's the original battery from 2006 you are definitely overdue for a new one.

F40

mack morrow jr

Get yourself a red or yellow top Optima.

binster

I am the 2nd owner. The battery looks new, and I am not sure if the prior owner replaced. Anyone know where the date code is on the delco?

johnodrake

Have you tried - moving the fob around inside the car? Putting the fob in the proximity holder in the glove box?

PaulB

I just went thru this on my 2009 (9/08) Coupe earlier this week. During this past summer I had several episodes of no starting. Early on we changed the batteries in both key fobs as the DIC said no Key Fob detected. I still had several more episodes of the car not starting. The car was always taken to the selling dealership where they told me all checks out ok. This last time the battery did not pass the test so it was replaced as still under warranty. They said it had a bad cell. From what I have seen and witnessed this year it appears to me that when a battery still checks out ok as passing the dealer test there may still be a problem. It appears to me that the car battery is starting to decline, but it still passes the dealers tests. If this happens to me again, and the same problems happen, I will change the car battery earlier. Its just unacceptable to go thru all this just for a no cost battery under warranty. Since the battery was finally replaced, all has been good. I am back to using the battery tender all the time now. Good Luck...

binster

Yes. That works fine, and the car starts without any probs when the fob is in the glove box slot

dgrant3830

Do you have a cell phone charger plugged in? If so, they could very easily jam the fob signal to the internal receiver...its happened to me as well as lots of people here in the forum. Also, is your cell phone any where near the fob?...same possibility

binster

No cell phone or anything else near that could cause interference.

CO Lightfoot

If you have an original '06 battery, it's time for a new one. I bet that will fix your problem. Also:
-- put your new battery on a tender/maintainer overnight to make sure it's well-charged, and
-- use your maintainer regularly, especially if your car sits for a week or more (pretty common in winter).

Other possibilities:

1. Do you use a "loc pick" ipod adapter?

2. When the car is parked, be sure to unplug any accessories from both power outlets.

3. Long-shot: A problem with the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR) module... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...defective.html

4. Hopefully you don't have a difficult-to-diagnose problem that's killing your battery. Like, door pad corrosion or a shorted wire under the drivers seat or a bad alternator.

Over the years I seen lots & lots & lots of "NO FOB DETECTED" threads solved with a new car battery. More than you'll ever want to know: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...ocked-out.html

binster

Ok. I went out and took a closer look at the battery.
The cell closest to the fender appears to be leaking from the cap. Very litlle, but I can see the water in the ridge. I'm going to replace the battery for peace of mind.

Btw. The serial num is 138784. Any way to know if this is a battery from 06?

rdm1465

I think I may have got a lemmon for a battery. I have a '06 coupe. Haven't used a charger, maintainer or been jumped. It sat for more than 2 months and cranked right up. Oh BTW it is bone stock and bought when new in Oct '05.
I personally do not subscribe to buying the Optimas, but to each their own. Keeping in mind that a battery is an electrical item it can go bad in an instant. New or old, doesn't matter.
I would suggest you get it tested. you can have a full charge, but not enough AMPS to do the job. As PaulB said, it could also have a bad cell.

binster

Thanks all. I just bought a new battery from Advance Auto. They have a 25% sale today, and $75 seemed like a good price for a 36 month exchange/84 month prorate warranty battery. I will pick up tomorrow and install.

binster

Update here.. Took my battery in today, and it tested "good".. Figured I should replace anyway due to age. New battery did not make a difference on my "No fobs detected" issue. I also took car out for long drive (about 50 miles) with the new car battery.

So - both fobs have new batteries.. Car battery is replaced with new and fully charged - but problem still exists. I also tested far away from my house to ensure there was nothing in my garage or house interfering with the signal suddenly. No cell phone in pocket either, plus no accessories plugged into lighter or after market electronic mods (e.g ipod adapters)

I keep thinking this may be a loose connector some place since the problem started when I jacked my front up for other work.

Any ideas out there?

cclive

I would try the remote buttons and see if they work at a distance. Maybe go 100 feet from the car and see if you can lock and unlock it. This would tell us if the RCDLR is receiving a signal from the fob. See how far away you can get and still have the buttons work.

dgrant3830

Are you still under warranty? You should use a code reader on it and see if anything is reporting.

orca1946

Have you dropped the fobs or damaged them in any way?

binster

OK.. Fob works well over 100 ft for locking/unlocking car. I may have screwed up following this procedure trying to reprogram my fobs
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/c6/C6%20Fob%20Programming.html

After reprogramming both fobs, they still work fine for locking and unlocking the door. But I can no longer start the car with the fob installed in the glove box slot. I was able to complete steps 9-14 as described in the instructions.



One thing that I found odd when doing this procedure, my DIC only shows "“Off/Acc to learn” when i use the key 5 times. It will never show "

cclive

I'm a bit lost here because steps 9-14 are in two different procedures...are you doing the short or the long? And if doing the long, then the DIC is correct in saying "OFF ACC TO LEARN" this means that if you want to continue (to 'learn'), you push the bottom half of the switch, which is called "OFF/ACC"

If the fobs started the car in the slot and/ or locked and unlocked the doors, then they are correctly programmed to the car already and there really should be no reason to re-program...although I understand that sometimes you just need to try anything with computers being in charge and all.