Really disappointed in 2008 Vette
07-12-2010, 12:12 AM
#61
Melting Slicks
07-12-2010, 08:51 PM
#62
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
It's always time to contact CHUCK CoW!!!
I also have some A6 low speed shifting quirks!
At low speeds and downshifting the trans does seem as if it is in neutral
and upon even slight acceleration a hellacious jolt occurs, not always though.
Any TSB #s out there on this?
After warranty ends in September it may be time to contact Chuck!
At low speeds and downshifting the trans does seem as if it is in neutral
and upon even slight acceleration a hellacious jolt occurs, not always though.
Any TSB #s out there on this?
After warranty ends in September it may be time to contact Chuck!
Stay TUNED!
Chuck CoW
07-16-2010, 09:50 AM
#64
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I guess I had brain fade and posted this in C5 General but I am seeing responses that say it is showing up in C6 General also.
Here are my comments in response to the posts that have been made. And thank you all for your responses.
1. I got the car new. It is a lease and it will go away in December. So with only a few months left, I don't plan to put any money in it such as a tranny tune.
2. I don't drive the car very hard. Probably easier on it than the average Corvette driver.
3. Someone commented that there is no way the trans can be in neutral unless the shift lever is in neutral. All I can say is that there are periods, after slowing down to make a turn or to go over a speed bump, that when I step on the gas, the engine revs up but the car speed doesn't change. That means it is not in any gear. If it's not in any gear, then it has to be in neutral. Then when it does shift into a gear, because the engine is higher than it should be, the car jerks really hard. Of course I let off on the gas as soon as I realize this but it is usually too late at that point to avoid the jerking. Others who have responded have the same complaint about the trans.
4. From the sound of it, I paid too much for the front brake replacements. I haven't had brakes replaced on any car that I have had since a 1983 Porsche 928 so I am unfortunately not up to speed on what it should have cost. In retrospect I probably should have had that done at a independent Corvette shop. Despite what a couple of posters have said, the dealer did put new rotors on it. I am capable of telling brand new rotors from used ones.
5. I haven't had a chance to get back to the dealer to see a copy of the service bulletin about the trans. If I can glean any info regarding these trans issues from this bulletin I will pass them on here.
6. Regarding the rev limiter kicking in before the trans shifts automatically, a couple of people commented that I am getting wheelspin or some other electronic gadget is kicking in. Nope, the rev limiter just shuts the car down. I wish I had enough power to break the wheels loose at about 60 or 70 mph when this occurs. It is definitely not wheelspin. I have had enough experience to know how a rev limiter works (former national record holder in several NHRA classes) and what it feels like.
Here are my comments in response to the posts that have been made. And thank you all for your responses.
1. I got the car new. It is a lease and it will go away in December. So with only a few months left, I don't plan to put any money in it such as a tranny tune.
2. I don't drive the car very hard. Probably easier on it than the average Corvette driver.
3. Someone commented that there is no way the trans can be in neutral unless the shift lever is in neutral. All I can say is that there are periods, after slowing down to make a turn or to go over a speed bump, that when I step on the gas, the engine revs up but the car speed doesn't change. That means it is not in any gear. If it's not in any gear, then it has to be in neutral. Then when it does shift into a gear, because the engine is higher than it should be, the car jerks really hard. Of course I let off on the gas as soon as I realize this but it is usually too late at that point to avoid the jerking. Others who have responded have the same complaint about the trans.
4. From the sound of it, I paid too much for the front brake replacements. I haven't had brakes replaced on any car that I have had since a 1983 Porsche 928 so I am unfortunately not up to speed on what it should have cost. In retrospect I probably should have had that done at a independent Corvette shop. Despite what a couple of posters have said, the dealer did put new rotors on it. I am capable of telling brand new rotors from used ones.
5. I haven't had a chance to get back to the dealer to see a copy of the service bulletin about the trans. If I can glean any info regarding these trans issues from this bulletin I will pass them on here.
6. Regarding the rev limiter kicking in before the trans shifts automatically, a couple of people commented that I am getting wheelspin or some other electronic gadget is kicking in. Nope, the rev limiter just shuts the car down. I wish I had enough power to break the wheels loose at about 60 or 70 mph when this occurs. It is definitely not wheelspin. I have had enough experience to know how a rev limiter works (former national record holder in several NHRA classes) and what it feels like.
Last edited by jimdavis; 07-16-2010 at 09:59 AM. Reason: Added additional info
07-16-2010, 10:14 AM
#65
Le Mans Master
If I were you I would put the tune in it and drive that car for the next 6 months. It will change your mind competely. I tuned my 08 lease car and enjoyed the crap out of it. I was goig to buy that car but got a better deal on a more optioned car.
In December you will want to get into another C6 and the 2010 will be cheap
In December you will want to get into another C6 and the 2010 will be cheap
07-16-2010, 10:19 AM
#66
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
Guess you're no novice at wheelspin. 
And since I was one who said probably no new rotors, it sounds like they did replace them and passed off the cost to GM. Could be there was something drastically wrong with the rotors, but I tend to doubt it at that mileage--still, it could be.
The trans issue is a real problem and I hope they correct it even tho you've only got a few months left on the lease. Someday, a great auto trans will be in most cars, but it's still not there as far as I know (unless you consider the clutch pedal-less "manumatics" to be automatics, which I do but few others do).
Good luck with the fix.
And since I was one who said probably no new rotors, it sounds like they did replace them and passed off the cost to GM. Could be there was something drastically wrong with the rotors, but I tend to doubt it at that mileage--still, it could be.The trans issue is a real problem and I hope they correct it even tho you've only got a few months left on the lease. Someday, a great auto trans will be in most cars, but it's still not there as far as I know (unless you consider the clutch pedal-less "manumatics" to be automatics, which I do but few others do).
Good luck with the fix.
07-16-2010, 02:34 PM
#67
Melting Slicks
I guess I had brain fade and posted this in C5 General but I am seeing responses that say it is showing up in C6 General also.
Here are my comments in response to the posts that have been made. And thank you all for your responses.
1. I got the car new. It is a lease and it will go away in December. So with only a few months left, I don't plan to put any money in it such as a tranny tune.
2. I don't drive the car very hard. Probably easier on it than the average Corvette driver.
3. Someone commented that there is no way the trans can be in neutral unless the shift lever is in neutral. All I can say is that there are periods, after slowing down to make a turn or to go over a speed bump, that when I step on the gas, the engine revs up but the car speed doesn't change. That means it is not in any gear. If it's not in any gear, then it has to be in neutral. Then when it does shift into a gear, because the engine is higher than it should be, the car jerks really hard. Of course I let off on the gas as soon as I realize this but it is usually too late at that point to avoid the jerking. Others who have responded have the same complaint about the trans.
4. From the sound of it, I paid too much for the front brake replacements. I haven't had brakes replaced on any car that I have had since a 1983 Porsche 928 so I am unfortunately not up to speed on what it should have cost. In retrospect I probably should have had that done at a independent Corvette shop. Despite what a couple of posters have said, the dealer did put new rotors on it. I am capable of telling brand new rotors from used ones.
5. I haven't had a chance to get back to the dealer to see a copy of the service bulletin about the trans. If I can glean any info regarding these trans issues from this bulletin I will pass them on here.
6. Regarding the rev limiter kicking in before the trans shifts automatically, a couple of people commented that I am getting wheelspin or some other electronic gadget is kicking in. Nope, the rev limiter just shuts the car down. I wish I had enough power to break the wheels loose at about 60 or 70 mph when this occurs. It is definitely not wheelspin. I have had enough experience to know how a rev limiter works (former national record holder in several NHRA classes) and what it feels like.
Here are my comments in response to the posts that have been made. And thank you all for your responses.
1. I got the car new. It is a lease and it will go away in December. So with only a few months left, I don't plan to put any money in it such as a tranny tune.
2. I don't drive the car very hard. Probably easier on it than the average Corvette driver.
3. Someone commented that there is no way the trans can be in neutral unless the shift lever is in neutral. All I can say is that there are periods, after slowing down to make a turn or to go over a speed bump, that when I step on the gas, the engine revs up but the car speed doesn't change. That means it is not in any gear. If it's not in any gear, then it has to be in neutral. Then when it does shift into a gear, because the engine is higher than it should be, the car jerks really hard. Of course I let off on the gas as soon as I realize this but it is usually too late at that point to avoid the jerking. Others who have responded have the same complaint about the trans.
4. From the sound of it, I paid too much for the front brake replacements. I haven't had brakes replaced on any car that I have had since a 1983 Porsche 928 so I am unfortunately not up to speed on what it should have cost. In retrospect I probably should have had that done at a independent Corvette shop. Despite what a couple of posters have said, the dealer did put new rotors on it. I am capable of telling brand new rotors from used ones.
5. I haven't had a chance to get back to the dealer to see a copy of the service bulletin about the trans. If I can glean any info regarding these trans issues from this bulletin I will pass them on here.
6. Regarding the rev limiter kicking in before the trans shifts automatically, a couple of people commented that I am getting wheelspin or some other electronic gadget is kicking in. Nope, the rev limiter just shuts the car down. I wish I had enough power to break the wheels loose at about 60 or 70 mph when this occurs. It is definitely not wheelspin. I have had enough experience to know how a rev limiter works (former national record holder in several NHRA classes) and what it feels like.
07-16-2010, 02:50 PM
#68
There are a two major causes of your transmission issues. The first is with the PIP listed below. You most likely have leaking seals causing harsh or flaring 2-3 shifts. The only way to fix this is to have the dealer remove the transmission from the car and replace the listed seals in the PIP.
The second issue is the torque management programmed into the transmission calibration. The programmed in shift points also don't let the transmission down shift like it really should in an effort to increase gas mileage. You can fix this with an aftermarket transmission tune which will turn off the torque management and adjust the shift points. Most of these tunes also adjust the fluid pressures which can make shifting harsh. I prefer a transmission tune that leaves the pressures alone and simply turns off some of the torque management options and adjusts the shift speeds for easier downshifting. The new EFI Live Programmer will let you make and load your own transmission tunes yourself.
The second issue is the torque management programmed into the transmission calibration. The programmed in shift points also don't let the transmission down shift like it really should in an effort to increase gas mileage. You can fix this with an aftermarket transmission tune which will turn off the torque management and adjust the shift points. Most of these tunes also adjust the fluid pressures which can make shifting harsh. I prefer a transmission tune that leaves the pressures alone and simply turns off some of the torque management options and adjusts the shift speeds for easier downshifting. The new EFI Live Programmer will let you make and load your own transmission tunes yourself.
PIP 4395
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
Some customers may comment on a flare or harsh 2-3 shift.
Recommendation/Instructions:
This condition may be caused by leaking 1-2-3-4 and 3-5-R clutch fluid seal rings (230). The following conditions are indications that the fluid seal rings may be leaking:
• Delayed/extended or delayed with harsh feel initial Park to Drive and/or Reverse to Drive shifts, that are more likely to occur when the transmission temperature is below approximately 40 degree C (104 degree F).
• Harsh or flaring 2-3 shifts that are more likely to occur when the transmission fluid temperature is in the approximately 0 degree C (32 degree F) to 40 degree C (104 degree F) temperature range, but can be present at any temperature.
• Harsh 2-3 shifts that are more likely to occur at less than 50% tp.
Vehicles built in the January through August, 2007 time frame are more likely to have leaking fluid seal rings
Important: When inspecting the 1-2-3-4 and 3-5-R clutch fluid seal rings (230) there probably will not be visible signs that the seal rings are damaged.
If any of the conditions above describe the flare/harsh 2-3 shift condition replace the 1-2-3-4 and 3-5-R clutch fluid seal rings (230), DO NOT replace the valve body or
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
Some customers may comment on a flare or harsh 2-3 shift.
Recommendation/Instructions:
This condition may be caused by leaking 1-2-3-4 and 3-5-R clutch fluid seal rings (230). The following conditions are indications that the fluid seal rings may be leaking:
• Delayed/extended or delayed with harsh feel initial Park to Drive and/or Reverse to Drive shifts, that are more likely to occur when the transmission temperature is below approximately 40 degree C (104 degree F).
• Harsh or flaring 2-3 shifts that are more likely to occur when the transmission fluid temperature is in the approximately 0 degree C (32 degree F) to 40 degree C (104 degree F) temperature range, but can be present at any temperature.
• Harsh 2-3 shifts that are more likely to occur at less than 50% tp.
Vehicles built in the January through August, 2007 time frame are more likely to have leaking fluid seal rings
Important: When inspecting the 1-2-3-4 and 3-5-R clutch fluid seal rings (230) there probably will not be visible signs that the seal rings are damaged.
If any of the conditions above describe the flare/harsh 2-3 shift condition replace the 1-2-3-4 and 3-5-R clutch fluid seal rings (230), DO NOT replace the valve body or
Last edited by CSixDude; 07-16-2010 at 02:57 PM.
07-16-2010, 03:27 PM
#69
By the way, I would have to agree with the original post. The 08 A6 transmission is the worst shifting automatic car I have driven in my entire life. I'm totally amazed GM would put such a poorly programmed transmission in a car of this caliber.
07-16-2010, 05:55 PM
#71
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I have an 08 A6 and just about to turn over 40k miles on it. Still has factory brakes and no problems with sway bar links. Having your car tuned will take care of the trans problems you are talking about and make an animal out of it. I love my 08 and I also have a 2000 FRC which is a great car as well.
08-01-2010, 09:38 PM
#72
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Crappy transmission
Thanks for the further input. While I have sometimes experienced the issues on the 2-3 shift that was mentioned, I can live with that. The issue that drives me nuts is occurring when the trans can't figure out whether it should be in first or second and occurs at very low speeds. As mentioned in both my previous posts, it occurs when I slow almost to a stop and then step on the gas only to experience nothing happening but the engine revving up.
It appears from what everyone says a trans tune would take care of this but with only a few months left on the lease I am not spending another dime on the car. So I will live with it. I have put up with it for over 2-1/2 years so another few months won't kill me.
I have had two different dealers tell me that there is nothing wrong with the trans. The reason I know this is b.s. is because this condition has been getting progressively worse over the time I have had the car.
It appears from what everyone says a trans tune would take care of this but with only a few months left on the lease I am not spending another dime on the car. So I will live with it. I have put up with it for over 2-1/2 years so another few months won't kill me.
I have had two different dealers tell me that there is nothing wrong with the trans. The reason I know this is b.s. is because this condition has been getting progressively worse over the time I have had the car.
08-01-2010, 11:24 PM
#73
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
Not to make too much of a joke out of it (and not knowing first hand about that particular auto trans), maybe the two dealers ARE saying the correct thing: even as it gets progressively worse, it's normal. 
disclaimer: I really don't know if the C6 auto trans is better or worse than others. I do know that, from my experience, there are better and worse automatics. I've had some that I never want again, but some have been superb, even way back when...
disclaimer: I really don't know if the C6 auto trans is better or worse than others. I do know that, from my experience, there are better and worse automatics. I've had some that I never want again, but some have been superb, even way back when...
08-01-2010, 11:44 PM
#74
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I remember when I bought my 07 w/2500 miles and guys saying I should have bought a new 08 w/all the improvements that had been made.
Hope the 09 I have in mind down the road doesn't have these issues. Or else I need GMPP help.
Hope the 09 I have in mind down the road doesn't have these issues. Or else I need GMPP help.
08-02-2010, 09:39 AM
#75
Melting Slicks
The issue that drives me nuts is occurring when the trans can't figure out whether it should be in first or second and occurs at very low speeds. As mentioned in both my previous posts, it occurs when I slow almost to a stop and then step on the gas only to experience nothing happening but the engine revving up.
08-02-2010, 10:09 AM
#76
Pro
08 Arctic White Convertible
No problems as yet, bought in Oct 07, 11K on the clock. Sometimes you are the bug and sometimes you are the windshield. Sorry for the problems.
08-02-2010, 07:39 PM
#78
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I am very pleased with My 08 Coupe. However, Since that time I am not happy with GM to the extent that they are not on my radar to purchase any car no matter what discounts and incentives they have.
