Dealers can't fix my car! What now??
11-07-2011, 10:49 AM
#61
Instructor
Clicking is from the wheel moving a very small amount on the hub/disk.
'09 Cadillac CTS-V had this problem with stk wheels caused by too much wheel contact surface for amount of lug torque.
Some Vette aftermarket wheels may have more contact surface versus OEM wheels. Clicking will go away temporarily after removing wheels and retorquing but returns again after a few thermal cycles of driving.
Best fix is to use OEM wheels.
'09 Cadillac CTS-V had this problem with stk wheels caused by too much wheel contact surface for amount of lug torque.
Some Vette aftermarket wheels may have more contact surface versus OEM wheels. Clicking will go away temporarily after removing wheels and retorquing but returns again after a few thermal cycles of driving.
Best fix is to use OEM wheels.
11-07-2011, 03:27 PM
#63
flyhi152,
I wasn't implying it's your job to diagnose your vehicles issues. I was just pointing out that unless there is a code, noises are extremely difficult to replace as they can be caused by so many different things. Regardless, I hope they can resolve it easily for you. Best of luck.
Chevrolet Customer Service,
Justin
I wasn't implying it's your job to diagnose your vehicles issues. I was just pointing out that unless there is a code, noises are extremely difficult to replace as they can be caused by so many different things. Regardless, I hope they can resolve it easily for you. Best of luck.
Chevrolet Customer Service,
Justin
It is not my job to diagnose the problem. If the trial-and-error method is the only way to find out what it is there are probably still many possibilities left... until the car is more or less rebuilt. obviously it was not the differential because it was replaced with a new one, however the technicians found metal filings in the gears indicating that there was something wrong with it.
11-07-2011, 03:56 PM
#64
Racer
flyhi152,
I wasn't implying it's your job to diagnose your vehicles issues. I was just pointing out that unless there is a code, noises are extremely difficult to replace as they can be caused by so many different things. Regardless, I hope they can resolve it easily for you. Best of luck.
Chevrolet Customer Service,
Justin
I wasn't implying it's your job to diagnose your vehicles issues. I was just pointing out that unless there is a code, noises are extremely difficult to replace as they can be caused by so many different things. Regardless, I hope they can resolve it easily for you. Best of luck.
Chevrolet Customer Service,
Justin
quick hijack: a "ticking noise" developed in my previous C-4 on a cross country trip. Took it to "THE CHEVY CORVETTE dealer in the Tidewater Region"...
Corvette Service Specialist: Sir, you need a new transmission
Me:
DAMN$1800 dollars, a week, and a new transmission later...same noise when I drove it off the lot.
I pulled a "U-Turn" back to the service bay...
Me: Noise isn't fixed
Kid who washed and pulled my car around: Pop the hood...
(He pauses and listens)...goes into the parts department...comes out with a tool and REPLACES A SPARK PLUG - sound goes away.
There ya go - the plug was 2 bucks, just pay at the window.
Ended up having to write the OWNER of the dealership to get my money for the transmission back...but still - "noises are difficult to diagnose" and "trial and error" repair method are both demonstrated here.
Hijack over.
11-07-2011, 07:09 PM
#65
Le Mans Master
So my 08 Z51 manual 6 sp has 15,000 miles on it and has been in service for about a year now. About 5,000 miles ago it started making this loud clicking noise when you make a sharp left turn... I figured no big deal, a trip to the dealer should sort it out. Boy was I wrong...
So I brought it to Lou Bachrodt Coconut Creek and they replaced 'front wheel hub bearings'. Gave me the car back, problem is gone, for the time being.. A few days later the noise comes back. I bring it back to them, the service writer says must've been a bad set. Replaces them again. A few days later, the noise comes back again! Now he says they must have 'a bad batch of wheel hub bearings'. Long story short he replaces them again, then a few days later again, then a few days later yet again, then about a week later, AGAIN!!
So this last time, they replaced them, the noise went away for about 2 months. Well now its back again, so I brought it to a new dealer. Ed Morse Sawgrass Chevrolet. This service writer claims his "Corvette Guy" is the best and is really miticulous, and that they will sort this problem out "once and for all". LOL!!! I tell him that's pretty much the same thing the last dealer told me about "their guy". (Everyone says "their guy" is the best. But I say, they can't ALL be the best!)
So they keep the car for 2 days and call me to tell me it wasn't ever the wheel bearings. They say its the steering rack. I say ok great, I go pick up the car.
BTW here is what the invoice says "POWER STEERING GEAR SHIFTING ON TURNS. R&R STEERING GEAR AND REPOSITIONED. LUBED CONTACT POINTS AND RETORQURED. 3.5 HOURS = $348.18"
So anyway, I picked up the car (this morning) drove the car all day today then tonight on the way to dinner, you guessed it, the clicking sound is BACK IN FULL FORCE!!!
What the hell do I do now??? How many times do I let them try to fix it? Doesn't GM have some kind of a master mechanic that can come look at the cars that the dealer monkeys can't figure out??
So I brought it to Lou Bachrodt Coconut Creek and they replaced 'front wheel hub bearings'. Gave me the car back, problem is gone, for the time being.. A few days later the noise comes back. I bring it back to them, the service writer says must've been a bad set. Replaces them again. A few days later, the noise comes back again! Now he says they must have 'a bad batch of wheel hub bearings'. Long story short he replaces them again, then a few days later again, then a few days later yet again, then about a week later, AGAIN!!
So this last time, they replaced them, the noise went away for about 2 months. Well now its back again, so I brought it to a new dealer. Ed Morse Sawgrass Chevrolet. This service writer claims his "Corvette Guy" is the best and is really miticulous, and that they will sort this problem out "once and for all". LOL!!! I tell him that's pretty much the same thing the last dealer told me about "their guy". (Everyone says "their guy" is the best. But I say, they can't ALL be the best!)
So they keep the car for 2 days and call me to tell me it wasn't ever the wheel bearings. They say its the steering rack. I say ok great, I go pick up the car.
BTW here is what the invoice says "POWER STEERING GEAR SHIFTING ON TURNS. R&R STEERING GEAR AND REPOSITIONED. LUBED CONTACT POINTS AND RETORQURED. 3.5 HOURS = $348.18"
So anyway, I picked up the car (this morning) drove the car all day today then tonight on the way to dinner, you guessed it, the clicking sound is BACK IN FULL FORCE!!!
What the hell do I do now??? How many times do I let them try to fix it? Doesn't GM have some kind of a master mechanic that can come look at the cars that the dealer monkeys can't figure out??
Clif
11-16-2011, 04:51 PM
#66
Intermediate
Member Since: Oct 2011
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I have seen 3 dealerships and demonstrated the grinding noise that my 2008 C6 (Automatic, 15,000 miles) develops after warming up. First master technician: "I can hear it but I have never heard something like that and I don't have any idea what it could be." Second dealership: they heard the noise, replaced the differential which did not resolve the problem. Third dealership: their service manager heard the noise, they performed some work on the transmission cooler lines but the noise was still there. They called the GM service center and were told that the noise is normal (strange that 3 master technicians acknowledged that there was something wrong after they actually heard it and then someone else diagnoses the noise "over the phone" without even driving in the car as normal. It sounds like a broken bearing and I have not heard anything like that on any other car. I am under the impression that this is the standard excuse when they are not able to figure out what it is: telling the customer that it is normal.
11-16-2011, 08:58 PM
#67
Unfourtunatly the car has already been lemoned. It was in the shop 6 months ago for 68 days for a transmission problem that the dealer would make worse each time they tried to fix it.
Mind you, I don't actually believe in lemon cars, only lemon mechanics. They did ulimately fix the transmission issue by replacing it with a brand new unit. But it took me getting a lawyer and going through the lemon process (we settled the case for cash).
The problem is that GM wants to let these dealers try and fix problems which they don't have the skills to fix.
Mind you, I don't actually believe in lemon cars, only lemon mechanics. They did ulimately fix the transmission issue by replacing it with a brand new unit. But it took me getting a lawyer and going through the lemon process (we settled the case for cash).
The problem is that GM wants to let these dealers try and fix problems which they don't have the skills to fix.
11-16-2011, 09:26 PM
#68
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2010
Location: T-Town WA
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2016 C6 of Year Finalist
[QUOTE=lstorm2003;1571935002]Unfourtunatly the car has already been lemoned. But it took me getting a lawyer and going through the lemon process (we settled the case for cash).QUOTE]
Hey...I'm thinkin it's time to "occupy" some crappy ol' Chevy dealership. I mean, really, the car "has already been lemoned" and ya "settled the case for cash" but what the hey...go for more, cuz...well,cuz...well, I guess you just should.
Wow...just sayin...
Hey...I'm thinkin it's time to "occupy" some crappy ol' Chevy dealership. I mean, really, the car "has already been lemoned" and ya "settled the case for cash" but what the hey...go for more, cuz...well,cuz...well, I guess you just should.
Wow...just sayin...
11-17-2011, 04:24 AM
#69
Burning Brakes
Its too bad that they brush off problems this way.
Its not 'normal' if other cars similarly equipped don't have the same problem or noise.
11-17-2011, 07:35 AM
#71
Burning Brakes
What the heck are you talking about?
You grease head bolts. Do they pop off?
You are not supposed to torque a dry bolt.
If the lug nuts are clicking against the wheel why not?
You grease head bolts. Do they pop off?
You are not supposed to torque a dry bolt.
If the lug nuts are clicking against the wheel why not?
Last edited by choprfgr; 11-17-2011 at 07:37 AM.
11-17-2011, 08:06 AM
#72
Melting Slicks
My local mechanic, a 30 something yo, is beyond excellent . I've never seen him unable to repair any car that I've owned in the last 10 years. He's meticulous and **** about everything, moreso with vettes. His father teaches techs all across the USA, and is one of the leading techs on hybrid vehicles anywhere in this country.
After my warranty is up, he'll be doing my repairs.
Good luck to the OP
After my warranty is up, he'll be doing my repairs.
Good luck to the OP
11-17-2011, 10:18 AM
#74
Melting Slicks
sorry for your problem
I would check the brake caliper and bracket bolts, sway bar bracket bolts, tie rods, ball joints and axle nuts, do it yourself so you can be sure. let it settle by driving it 5-10 minutes and listen for noises. if they are still there try some lube (pb blast, wd40 ....) 1 spot at a time until you find the culprit. it's your car, a mechanic will not take the time, they are just part changers. you will find it eventually.
good luck
Tom
good luck
Tom
11-17-2011, 11:04 AM
#75
Get Some!
I have a friend who took his Avalanche to the dealer multiple times for a problem related to poor power and accelleration. The last time, GM was getting ready to send out a technician from the factory when someone at the dealership finally realized the carpet was shoved up under the gas pedal. Someone should of lost their job over that one. Try a different dealer.
LOL-
quick hijack: a "ticking noise" developed in my previous C-4 on a cross country trip. Took it to "THE CHEVY CORVETTE dealer in the Tidewater Region"...
Corvette Service Specialist: Sir, you need a new transmission
Me: DAMN
$1800 dollars, a week, and a new transmission later...same noise when I drove it off the lot.
I pulled a "U-Turn" back to the service bay...
Me: Noise isn't fixed
Kid who washed and pulled my car around: Pop the hood...
(He pauses and listens)...goes into the parts department...comes out with a tool and REPLACES A SPARK PLUG - sound goes away.
There ya go - the plug was 2 bucks, just pay at the window.
Ended up having to write the OWNER of the dealership to get my money for the transmission back...but still - "noises are difficult to diagnose" and "trial and error" repair method are both demonstrated here.
Hijack over.
quick hijack: a "ticking noise" developed in my previous C-4 on a cross country trip. Took it to "THE CHEVY CORVETTE dealer in the Tidewater Region"...
Corvette Service Specialist: Sir, you need a new transmission
Me:
DAMN$1800 dollars, a week, and a new transmission later...same noise when I drove it off the lot.
I pulled a "U-Turn" back to the service bay...
Me: Noise isn't fixed
Kid who washed and pulled my car around: Pop the hood...
(He pauses and listens)...goes into the parts department...comes out with a tool and REPLACES A SPARK PLUG - sound goes away.
There ya go - the plug was 2 bucks, just pay at the window.
Ended up having to write the OWNER of the dealership to get my money for the transmission back...but still - "noises are difficult to diagnose" and "trial and error" repair method are both demonstrated here.
Hijack over.
11-17-2011, 12:24 PM
#76
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Tacoma, Wa/Surprise, Az
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11-17-2011, 02:01 PM
#78
Safety Car
It's frighteing how much bad info has been given in this thread 
No wonder most tech's and performance shops cringe when you start off, "Well I read this on the forum...."
1. Never under torque your lugs and never over-torque them either
2. A very light coat of anti-seize is ok to prevent gauling if needed
3. Usually clicking is from the rear axle shaft inside the hub. Loosen the nut (34mm socket), grease the splines, then re-torque to 118 ft/lbs.
4. Clicking can also come from swaybar endlinks being loose. They should be nice and tight. I never use a spec.
5. Best to put the car up in the air and nut/bolt everything and check for anything rubbing etc. It's not rocket science.
No wonder most tech's and performance shops cringe when you start off, "Well I read this on the forum...."1. Never under torque your lugs and never over-torque them either
2. A very light coat of anti-seize is ok to prevent gauling if needed
3. Usually clicking is from the rear axle shaft inside the hub. Loosen the nut (34mm socket), grease the splines, then re-torque to 118 ft/lbs.
4. Clicking can also come from swaybar endlinks being loose. They should be nice and tight. I never use a spec.
5. Best to put the car up in the air and nut/bolt everything and check for anything rubbing etc. It's not rocket science.
11-17-2011, 02:20 PM
#79
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
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St. Jude Donor '13
It's frighteing how much bad info has been given in this thread No wonder most tech's and performance shops cringe when you start off, "Well I read this on the forum...."
1. Never under torque your lugs and never over-torque them either
2. A very light coat of anti-seize is ok to prevent gauling if needed
3. Usually clicking is from the rear axle shaft inside the hub. Loosen the nut (34mm socket), grease the splines, then re-torque to 118 ft/lbs.
4. Clicking can also come from swaybar endlinks being loose. They should be nice and tight. I never use a spec.
5. Best to put the car up in the air and nut/bolt everything and check for anything rubbing etc. It's not rocket science.
No wonder most tech's and performance shops cringe when you start off, "Well I read this on the forum...."1. Never under torque your lugs and never over-torque them either
2. A very light coat of anti-seize is ok to prevent gauling if needed
3. Usually clicking is from the rear axle shaft inside the hub. Loosen the nut (34mm socket), grease the splines, then re-torque to 118 ft/lbs.
4. Clicking can also come from swaybar endlinks being loose. They should be nice and tight. I never use a spec.
5. Best to put the car up in the air and nut/bolt everything and check for anything rubbing etc. It's not rocket science.
Our 2006 needed a 33mm socket for the axle nuts, but our 2009 needs a 34mm. Even some cars from the same year need different size sockets.
There is a GM bulletin about loose axle nuts, and it's different from what you say. They call for replacing the nuts (new design), using red Loctite, and torquing to a higher number (140 lb/ft I think, but not sure).
Last edited by Gearhead Jim; 11-17-2011 at 02:23 PM.
11-17-2011, 02:23 PM
#80
Clicking is from the wheel moving a very small amount on the hub/disk.
'09 Cadillac CTS-V had this problem with stk wheels caused by too much wheel contact surface for amount of lug torque.
Some Vette aftermarket wheels may have more contact surface versus OEM wheels. Clicking will go away temporarily after removing wheels and retorquing but returns again after a few thermal cycles of driving.
Best fix is to use OEM wheels.
'09 Cadillac CTS-V had this problem with stk wheels caused by too much wheel contact surface for amount of lug torque.
Some Vette aftermarket wheels may have more contact surface versus OEM wheels. Clicking will go away temporarily after removing wheels and retorquing but returns again after a few thermal cycles of driving.
Best fix is to use OEM wheels.