New brakes all the way around and they stills squeal like a pig :willy: What now?
10-01-2009, 05:45 PM
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
New brakes all the way around and they stills squeal like a pig :*****: What now?
I put new pads on all fours of the C6. The rotors were turned and I sprayed them with Brake Clean fluid before I put the calipers back on.
The slide pins were also cleaned and regreased. All the pads have the hims installed correctly along with the anti-squeal compound. I've also ensured the brakes were properly bled and they are tight. i have no problem stopping the car at all.
It sounds like all the noise is coming from the rear brakes, though. When I come to a slow stop I hear the squeal but it's not there if I press hard on the brake pedal. Also, when I'm slowly backing down my mountain of a driveway all of the brakes make a noise something like you'd hear when a train comes to a stop. It's a loud low pitched whine.
Does anybody have suggestions?
:
The slide pins were also cleaned and regreased. All the pads have the hims installed correctly along with the anti-squeal compound. I've also ensured the brakes were properly bled and they are tight. i have no problem stopping the car at all.
It sounds like all the noise is coming from the rear brakes, though. When I come to a slow stop I hear the squeal but it's not there if I press hard on the brake pedal. Also, when I'm slowly backing down my mountain of a driveway all of the brakes make a noise something like you'd hear when a train comes to a stop. It's a loud low pitched whine.
Does anybody have suggestions?
:
10-01-2009, 05:48 PM
#2
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
did you bed in the new pads? not that it matters, but what pads are you using?
10-01-2009, 05:53 PM
#4
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10-01-2009, 05:55 PM
#5
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10-01-2009, 05:58 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
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http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
10-01-2009, 05:59 PM
#7
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Here's some excellent technical info on bedding in the brakes! I can tell you that much of people experience with brake noise, shudder etc.. are caused by improper or not bedding new pads..... Some great info on this website regardless of what mfg pads you used....
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
10-01-2009, 06:05 PM
#8
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Good luck and let me know how you make out after you've bedded in the pads. BTW... I doubt your rotors we bad UNLESS they were showing cracks. It's almost impossible to actually warp rotors as you can't get them that hot... cracking etc yes... So many folks get ripped off when told their rotors are warped.. it's usually just brake deposit material on them. Even turning them might not remove all that material......
10-01-2009, 06:07 PM
#9
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
I went to O'Reillys website; they list everything for an '05 from a brand called Brake Best to Wagner and Performance Friction. If the bedding in process described above by CT doesn't work, you may have to try "chamfering" ( a process of simply cutting the edge at an angle, sort of like a ramping up to the main surface of the pad) the leading edge of the pads.
But see if the bedding in works. And don't necessarily expect it to be a permanent fix; many/most brakes still make noise after awhile and need to be semi-bedded in again or occasionally. Sometimes, it's just a good hard stop with 3/4 brake push, and sometimes it's a full bedding in.
Tell us what happens.
But see if the bedding in works. And don't necessarily expect it to be a permanent fix; many/most brakes still make noise after awhile and need to be semi-bedded in again or occasionally. Sometimes, it's just a good hard stop with 3/4 brake push, and sometimes it's a full bedding in.
Tell us what happens.
10-01-2009, 06:07 PM
#11
Team Owner
Thread Starter
No.. "ALL" new pads need to be bedded in for proper operation. Doesn't matter as the article explains. Don't ask how I know why it's so important... Good luck and let me know how you make out after you've bedded in the pads.
BTW... I doubt your rotors we bad UNLESS they were showing cracks. It's almost impossible to actually warp rotors as you can't get them that hot... cracking etc yes... So many folks get ripped off when told their rotors are warped.. it's usually just brake deposit material on them. Even turning them might not remove all that material......
Good luck and let me know how you make out after you've bedded in the pads. BTW... I doubt your rotors we bad UNLESS they were showing cracks. It's almost impossible to actually warp rotors as you can't get them that hot... cracking etc yes... So many folks get ripped off when told their rotors are warped.. it's usually just brake deposit material on them. Even turning them might not remove all that material......
There were no cracks in them either.
10-01-2009, 06:08 PM
#12
Team Owner
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Hmmm... I'll check but I did clean the lock time remnants off with a wire brush and re-coat them when I put them back in. You are talking about the bolts that hold the caliper to the slide pins, right?
10-01-2009, 06:14 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
No
10-01-2009, 06:27 PM
#14
Team Owner
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cthusker, I'll do the bedding in this weekend, too, and post an update. Thanks for the advice everyone. In all my years of changing brakes I've never had a set do this
10-01-2009, 06:35 PM
#16
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10-01-2009, 06:40 PM
#17
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Sounds like a job for me after I put off what's one the Honey-do list through procrastination this weekend
cthusker, I'll do the bedding in this weekend, too, and post an update. Thanks for the advice everyone. In all my years of changing brakes I've never had a set do this
cthusker, I'll do the bedding in this weekend, too, and post an update. Thanks for the advice everyone. In all my years of changing brakes I've never had a set do this
I sure hope it works because it's down right embarrassing to hear those things squealing like a PETA rep at an NRA convention...
10-01-2009, 06:59 PM
#18
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Sounds like you are doing everything right mechanically but one thing is for certain, the pads vibrate against the rotor when applied and when the vibration transfers to two metal surfaces, you get an audible squeal. Chances are you have some metal to metal contact that needs a little lube.
Lube: The best "anti squeal compound" is a ceramic brake lubricant. It holds up best in high heat areas like brake pads. I have also used high heat anti-seize in the past with great results. That red stuff that turns semi hard like silicone is probably the worst thing you could use. No lubricating properties at all and hard to clean off for the next mechanic.
Pads: Higher quality pad compounds are designed to absorb vibrations thereby reducing the possibility of brake noise. With the store branded parts, they may say premium on the box and you may pay more, but what is in the box is whatever the purchasers decided to buy that month. In other words, they bought from "factory A" in January but got a better price from "factory C" in June, but "factory C's" pad, still sold as a premium, is not as good as "factory B's". I sell "white box" pads as well, but I control the quality of the pads I purchased and from who.
Bedding: The mating of the pads to the rotors is CRITICAL to the performance and long life of the brake job. The information linked to in other posts is some of the best out there, but what you are ultimately trying to accomplish is getting the pads and rotors to "marry" each other without overheating them before it happens. 99% of the brake jobs on the road today achieve this through easy brake applications for the first few hundred miles. If you haven't overheated your brake job yet, at least you are on the right track! Oh, and what ever you do, DO NOT BRAKE HARD ENOUGH TO MAKE YOUR NEW BRAKES SMOKE! That's a brake job killer!
Hope this helps.
Lube: The best "anti squeal compound" is a ceramic brake lubricant. It holds up best in high heat areas like brake pads. I have also used high heat anti-seize in the past with great results. That red stuff that turns semi hard like silicone is probably the worst thing you could use. No lubricating properties at all and hard to clean off for the next mechanic.
Pads: Higher quality pad compounds are designed to absorb vibrations thereby reducing the possibility of brake noise. With the store branded parts, they may say premium on the box and you may pay more, but what is in the box is whatever the purchasers decided to buy that month. In other words, they bought from "factory A" in January but got a better price from "factory C" in June, but "factory C's" pad, still sold as a premium, is not as good as "factory B's". I sell "white box" pads as well, but I control the quality of the pads I purchased and from who.
Bedding: The mating of the pads to the rotors is CRITICAL to the performance and long life of the brake job. The information linked to in other posts is some of the best out there, but what you are ultimately trying to accomplish is getting the pads and rotors to "marry" each other without overheating them before it happens. 99% of the brake jobs on the road today achieve this through easy brake applications for the first few hundred miles. If you haven't overheated your brake job yet, at least you are on the right track! Oh, and what ever you do, DO NOT BRAKE HARD ENOUGH TO MAKE YOUR NEW BRAKES SMOKE! That's a brake job killer!
Hope this helps.
10-01-2009, 08:25 PM
#19
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Sounds like you are doing everything right mechanically but one thing is for certain, the pads vibrate against the rotor when applied and when the vibration transfers to two metal surfaces, you get an audible squeal. Chances are you have some metal to metal contact that needs a little lube.
Lube: The best "anti squeal compound" is a ceramic brake lubricant. It holds up best in high heat areas like brake pads. I have also used high heat anti-seize in the past with great results. That red stuff that turns semi hard like silicone is probably the worst thing you could use. No lubricating properties at all and hard to clean off for the next mechanic.
Pads: Higher quality pad compounds are designed to absorb vibrations thereby reducing the possibility of brake noise. With the store branded parts, they may say premium on the box and you may pay more, but what is in the box is whatever the purchasers decided to buy that month. In other words, they bought from "factory A" in January but got a better price from "factory C" in June, but "factory C's" pad, still sold as a premium, is not as good as "factory B's". I sell "white box" pads as well, but I control the quality of the pads I purchased and from who.
Bedding: The mating of the pads to the rotors is CRITICAL to the performance and long life of the brake job. The information linked to in other posts is some of the best out there, but what you are ultimately trying to accomplish is getting the pads and rotors to "marry" each other without overheating them before it happens. 99% of the brake jobs on the road today achieve this through easy brake applications for the first few hundred miles. If you haven't overheated your brake job yet, at least you are on the right track! Oh, and what ever you do, DO NOT BRAKE HARD ENOUGH TO MAKE YOUR NEW BRAKES SMOKE! That's a brake job killer!
Hope this helps.
Lube: The best "anti squeal compound" is a ceramic brake lubricant. It holds up best in high heat areas like brake pads. I have also used high heat anti-seize in the past with great results. That red stuff that turns semi hard like silicone is probably the worst thing you could use. No lubricating properties at all and hard to clean off for the next mechanic.
Pads: Higher quality pad compounds are designed to absorb vibrations thereby reducing the possibility of brake noise. With the store branded parts, they may say premium on the box and you may pay more, but what is in the box is whatever the purchasers decided to buy that month. In other words, they bought from "factory A" in January but got a better price from "factory C" in June, but "factory C's" pad, still sold as a premium, is not as good as "factory B's". I sell "white box" pads as well, but I control the quality of the pads I purchased and from who.
Bedding: The mating of the pads to the rotors is CRITICAL to the performance and long life of the brake job. The information linked to in other posts is some of the best out there, but what you are ultimately trying to accomplish is getting the pads and rotors to "marry" each other without overheating them before it happens. 99% of the brake jobs on the road today achieve this through easy brake applications for the first few hundred miles. If you haven't overheated your brake job yet, at least you are on the right track! Oh, and what ever you do, DO NOT BRAKE HARD ENOUGH TO MAKE YOUR NEW BRAKES SMOKE! That's a brake job killer!
Hope this helps.
I also used anti squeal with the shims so I'm a little lost here. I'll try your other suggestion but I've run them for about 300 miles so far. I would think it'd worked itself out by now. either way, the fast run up to speed to bed the pads sounds like fun whether it'll help or not
I've also managed to not over heat the brakes since I do "city" driving that has a lot of romm between lights and a decent traffic flow.
either way, I'll try the bedding process and let you all know how it works this weekend. It'll probably be Sunday since I don't drive on days I run with the local Hash House Harriers and we have runs Friday night and Saturday afternoon. Tis a drinking club with a running problem :o
10-01-2009, 08:35 PM
#20
Race Director
I did exactly as the link the "cthusker" posted said... I did not get hi performance pads because I only Drag Race my car, and I need holding power when the pads & rotors are cold!
As for stopping, I have over 1/2 mile so I go easy on the breaks! I have exactly NO problems with the GM Ceramic pads, no noise or dust (thats why I switched) I didn't want to clean the wheels every time I used the car!
cthusker... Thank you for the link... I did exactly as it said & it worked fine for me!!
