What type of oil are you running
06-01-2009, 06:29 PM
#1
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What type of oil are you running
I know it sounds like a rookie question, but what type of engine oil are you running; just want to get a consensus of which is the best for this engine?
06-01-2009, 06:32 PM
#2
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Mine came from the factory with Mobil 1, and my dealer will keep changing it for free as long as I own the car (and he stays in business!)
Sounds like a reasonable plan to me. Oh, the dealer also guarantees the engine for as long as I own the car.
Sounds like a reasonable plan to me. Oh, the dealer also guarantees the engine for as long as I own the car.
06-01-2009, 06:52 PM
#6
Drifting
Oh, and good on you for getting a freebe for life.
06-01-2009, 07:18 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
I use what the factory rec'd. I'm an Amsoil lover for my bikes as I've seen what it did to lower my temps, keep the engine clean, and make the tranny "snick" when shifting. Mobile 1 is a good oil, but change it as you would dino oil. They got scolded some years back touting the extended oil life advertising. There are only a few oils that the gov't has agreed with, that can go x-life. Each oil has it's own line of additive package, made by a third party in many cases. Some have high zinc, others low. It depends on what that company believes is the best combo of additives to provide a solution of reduced plug fouling, low chance of piston scoring, able to hold contaminents in suspension thru high and low temps, etc....
In example, adding a lot of something (zinc if memory serves) to prevent piston scoring, increases plug fouling. The Petroleum Oil Engineers Assoc had a page up years ago that listed oils and their contents, explaining the reasoning behind each.
Many years ago Quaker State would gum up an engine in short time. Why? Parafin. Parafin is a great lubricator, but also builds up. Some swear by QS, while I for one avoid it like the plague. I worked in a gas station and saw what QS did to engines. When tearing down an engine I could always tell a QS user. The engine was thick with gunk. Most of those engines from what I recall had around 78k miles on them, whether a GM, Ford, or Chrysler product. From what I gathered at the time, it seemed to be a well known issue.
In my old Harley Panhead, I liked Kendal GT-1 or Wolfs Head (seems impossible to find now, but a couple of decades ago was very common and well respected). In my MGB I ran Castrol GTX only, same with my x's Honda Civic. Would I run their syntec? No. There are syn oils that have been around a lot longer with a far better understanding of them than Castrol, who was a late comer to the game. That's just my reasoning, not that it's correct.
In my truck, Shell Rotella. Chevron Delo is great too. I don't run syn in it due to ash build up mandates normal, not x-life changes.
I don't use Harley oil, though have seen it keep Evo's alive and well for over 125k miles which are still going strong. The Amsoils is a far better product, one that saves me multiple changes thru the year.
In my Mercury outboard I run only Merc/Quicksilver Premium Plus oil and nothing else. Why? Because they really did make a superior oil to keep that engine alive. It's going on 23 years of use and still has like new compression. Syn oil (Amsoil) in a two-stroke is not always the best as I learned with a jet ski. It burns too well so that nothing is left to lube the crank. It's only lubing when there is wet gas in the cylinder. Fortunately I learned by spending time with a racer, instead of learning a lesson the hard..$$$ way. (There isn't always a "best" oil is what I'm getting at with this tome.)
For me it's not about brand loyalty, but what works best, is constant in its superiority, and is sustainable (Some oils are harder to get than others). Mobile 1 is a good oil for this engine (or any for that matter) and it's rec'd for a reason by Chevy (why ? beats me, but I'm not a conspiracy theorist). There are other oils you can use, but choose wisely and with reason. If you don't have reason to change brands, you may want to stick with what has proven to work with these motors. Mobile 1 is available most everywhere.
In example, adding a lot of something (zinc if memory serves) to prevent piston scoring, increases plug fouling. The Petroleum Oil Engineers Assoc had a page up years ago that listed oils and their contents, explaining the reasoning behind each.
Many years ago Quaker State would gum up an engine in short time. Why? Parafin. Parafin is a great lubricator, but also builds up. Some swear by QS, while I for one avoid it like the plague. I worked in a gas station and saw what QS did to engines. When tearing down an engine I could always tell a QS user. The engine was thick with gunk. Most of those engines from what I recall had around 78k miles on them, whether a GM, Ford, or Chrysler product. From what I gathered at the time, it seemed to be a well known issue.
In my old Harley Panhead, I liked Kendal GT-1 or Wolfs Head (seems impossible to find now, but a couple of decades ago was very common and well respected). In my MGB I ran Castrol GTX only, same with my x's Honda Civic. Would I run their syntec? No. There are syn oils that have been around a lot longer with a far better understanding of them than Castrol, who was a late comer to the game. That's just my reasoning, not that it's correct.
In my truck, Shell Rotella. Chevron Delo is great too. I don't run syn in it due to ash build up mandates normal, not x-life changes.
I don't use Harley oil, though have seen it keep Evo's alive and well for over 125k miles which are still going strong. The Amsoils is a far better product, one that saves me multiple changes thru the year.
In my Mercury outboard I run only Merc/Quicksilver Premium Plus oil and nothing else. Why? Because they really did make a superior oil to keep that engine alive. It's going on 23 years of use and still has like new compression. Syn oil (Amsoil) in a two-stroke is not always the best as I learned with a jet ski. It burns too well so that nothing is left to lube the crank. It's only lubing when there is wet gas in the cylinder. Fortunately I learned by spending time with a racer, instead of learning a lesson the hard..$$$ way. (There isn't always a "best" oil is what I'm getting at with this tome.)
For me it's not about brand loyalty, but what works best, is constant in its superiority, and is sustainable (Some oils are harder to get than others). Mobile 1 is a good oil for this engine (or any for that matter) and it's rec'd for a reason by Chevy (why ? beats me, but I'm not a conspiracy theorist). There are other oils you can use, but choose wisely and with reason. If you don't have reason to change brands, you may want to stick with what has proven to work with these motors. Mobile 1 is available most everywhere.
Last edited by GotChrist?; 06-01-2009 at 07:29 PM.
06-01-2009, 07:40 PM
#9
Team Owner
06-01-2009, 08:16 PM
#14
I use what GM thinks is best, what they put in at the factory; and, considering they warranty the engine, they likely know what works.
Peace, out.
Peace, out.
06-01-2009, 08:29 PM
#15
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Location: Mississippi
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Well, just to be contentious I run Penzoil Platinum synthetic 5-30.
I drove LS1's for the last 10 years with the last 7 of being a WS6 Trans Am with heads, cam, headers, all the good stuff. I tried at least 4 or 5 different brands of synthetic oil in it and Penzoil stayed in it better than the rest, including Mobil 1.
I drove LS1's for the last 10 years with the last 7 of being a WS6 Trans Am with heads, cam, headers, all the good stuff. I tried at least 4 or 5 different brands of synthetic oil in it and Penzoil stayed in it better than the rest, including Mobil 1.
