When your voltage needle starts pulsating, time for a new battery
My 70 has a Sears battery with the side terminals. It's a PIA getting back there to connect/disconnect it.
05-16-2009, 10:19 AM
#23
Team Owner
It depends:
In the C6 they reversed the positive terminal starting with 06 and the 08's have yet a new different battery.
05's will take a 34/78, 06-07 will take a D35, these are both yellowtop configurations. I'm not sure what will fit an 08. The positive cable is in the same location but the OEM battery is a different physical size.
In the C6 they reversed the positive terminal starting with 06 and the 08's have yet a new different battery.
05's will take a 34/78, 06-07 will take a D35, these are both yellowtop configurations. I'm not sure what will fit an 08. The positive cable is in the same location but the OEM battery is a different physical size.
05-16-2009, 10:33 AM
#25
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Oct 2008
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Guys and gals - this is very educational. In the "old" days it always meant the regulator, and only in VERY RARE instances a bad battery (plates failing or shorting intermittently). One way of the other, the many reports from forum members has once again educated me at to the uniqueness of the "new" (to me) Vette systems.
P.S. I had this battery gage needle pulse issue on my '03 TrailBlazer and it WAS the REGULATOR. Replaced the alternator/regulator and the problem went away. Three yearts later, so problems and I still have the same battery, and it cranks fine at -20F in the winter...
P.S. I had this battery gage needle pulse issue on my '03 TrailBlazer and it WAS the REGULATOR. Replaced the alternator/regulator and the problem went away. Three yearts later, so problems and I still have the same battery, and it cranks fine at -20F in the winter...
Last edited by inthehunt2; 05-16-2009 at 10:44 AM.
05-16-2009, 11:16 AM
#27
Burning Brakes
Those of you who want the "old times " back just run out and order a 2010 Grand Sport Coupe with the Z-52 option and you will again have your battery in the back. Deja-Vu all over again huh ?
05-16-2009, 11:23 AM
#28
Le Mans Master
05-16-2009, 12:56 PM
#29
Moderator
Member Since: Dec 2002
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Yesterday I bought a new Optima yellow top battery for my 2006 C6. The old battery was bad (but tested ok at dealer). Funny thing, the dealer said it was my alternator. Well, they put in a new alternator and the same 'check charging system' would come on, but the bigger tell was the fact that the voltage needle would pulse. So - if your voltage needle is moving around, especially when you are at low idle vs. driving speed vs high idle, its time for a new battery.
Just as many say on this forum, the OEM battery lasts 3 years and that is that.
Just as many say on this forum, the OEM battery lasts 3 years and that is that.
05-16-2009, 12:58 PM
#30
Racer
Member Since: Dec 2004
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I purchased my 2005 C6 in December 2004 and I still have the original battery in place. Still works fine but I expect it replace it later this year. I think it lasted so long because I took the advice of many here and put a Battery Tender on it for those times when I wasn't driving it. I think it made a huge difference.
05-16-2009, 04:12 PM
#33
Team Owner
Thus far I am still on the 2005 Battery. But I have had good luck with Interstate batteries on other cars. Currently I have one of those mega Tron 84 month batteries and it too is three years old.
05-16-2009, 06:54 PM
#34
Buy lead, not warranty. When comparing batteries, compare weight. A lead acid battery uses lead and acid to store electric energy, the more lead, the more energy. So the heavier the battery, the more capacity you are buying. Most of the price of a battery is the cost of warranty, the longer the warranty, the higher the price. In other words, you're buying insurance not battery. So buy the heaviest battery with the shortest warranty to get the most for your money.
05-17-2009, 04:52 AM
#38
Team Owner
Buy lead, not warranty. When comparing batteries, compare weight. A lead acid battery uses lead and acid to store electric energy, the more lead, the more energy. So the heavier the battery, the more capacity you are buying. Most of the price of a battery is the cost of warranty, the longer the warranty, the higher the price. In other words, you're buying insurance not battery. So buy the heaviest battery with the shortest warranty to get the most for your money.
05-17-2009, 05:42 AM
#39