Another Race Mesh Side Duct Install
05-10-2009, 01:34 AM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Another Race Mesh Side Duct Install
First of all thanks to Steve MC for posting his detailed install for the side duct mesh. I just went thought this and would also like to document my steps because of some different things I did. I think between Steve's post and this DIY, you will have a very good idea of what you are getting into.
The steps are the same for left or right, although you need to install the appropriate (L or R) mesh. I use pictures from either side as I go through the steps - don't let that bother you, it's the same process on either side.
First take the wheel off - I know a few people have asked if this is possible to install these with the wheel still on....I'd say not unless you are a contortionist.
There are 6 push-pins and 3 screws (1x 7mm, 2x 10mm) that hold the panel on. I'd suggest you not remove the center push-pin (shown in blue) until you remove all the other hardware. This will allow the panel to be held in place while you remove the screws under the car, otherwise the panel would want to fall as you remove the last screw and you would have to hold it up while working.
So, remove 5 push-pins. To remove them either use a door panel tool, or something else that will get behind the center pin and allow you to pull it out. In a pinch I have used a screwdriver or even a small set of diagonal cutters which work great just don't cut the center pin. It should come out easily, and once the pin is out you can simply pull the base out with your fingers.
Remove the 3 screws under the panel. The closest one to the outside is 7mm, the inner ones are 10mm. Note that the one furthest towards the front of the car goes in at an angle.
Once everything else is out go ahead and pull the center push-pin + base and remove the panel.
As you look inside this is what you will see.
(Pass)
(Drivers)
The inner "baffle" is held to the outer bodywork using double-sided tape in 2 locations. Although not necessary, I used a marker to outline the location of where the 2 pieces meet. This was useful as a guide later during reassembly because it showed me exactly where to put the new tape and how the 2 parts should align.
You need to separate the 2 pieces. You should be able to reach in both through the vent and from the back and CAREFULLY pull the 2 pieces apart. I used the door panel tool and slid it between the 2 parts as I pulled up with my other hand. You do not want to pry - especially with something pointy as that may put too much pressure on 1 spot on the outer panel and possibly cause damage. Another way may be to just use dental floss like you would to remove the chicklets.
Once these are separated, do your best to remove all the old tape on both panels. Now you want to tape the '"baffle" out of the way so you can get working on the mesh. I just used some painters tape and taped it to the electrical harness (passenger's side) or the wiper reservoir (drivers side).
Take the appropriate mesh (should be labeled as to what side it goes on and what side faces out) and lay it against the vent and check for any gaps. It should lay relatively flat. If it doesn't, you will have to make some field adjustments by carefully bending / twisting it to conform to the vent. The drivers side on my car fit almost perfectly and required just a slight twist to sit properly. The passengers side was a bit more challenging but eventually, with some adjustments, it fit.
Clean the surfaces that the mesh will be adhered to.
At this point you want to mount the mesh and support it (using Steve's towel method, or using a bungee cord attached to the jack handle or mirror, etc.) so you can start applying the adhesive. Once the mesh is in place, centered, and supported so it's not going to move, go ahead and apply the adhesive to the mesh where it meets the outer panel. You want to get a good bead in there but you also don't want to get too close to the vent opening because it would show from the outside.
Let it dry.
Optional step.
As I inspected the work I got concerned that only 1 side of these is actually glued down and holding the whole thing. What would happen if someone tried to push the mesh in on the '"free" side or, if after removing the support, the mesh had a gap on the inner side? It isn't glued there, which IMO is not a good thing.
So, to solve that I installed 3 adhesive backed tie-wrap holders just to the back of the mesh. They look like this.
I put a bead of adhesive around the holder just as an extra precaution if the base's adhesive back ever let go. If you decide to do this make sure you clean the surface where the holders will be mounted. Here they are installed.
After everything was dry I put a tiewrap through the outer edge of the mesh to the tie-wrap holder and cinched it up so the 'free' side of the mesh was held firmly in place. Cut the tie-wrap excess.
Remove any supports that are holding the mesh in place and make sure everything is OK.
Cut pieces of double-sided tape to the correct size you will need and mount them on the outer panel that you marked prior to removal. If you didn't mark them you can always apply the tape to the tabs on the baffle. Remove the tape holding the baffle back and join it to the outer panel.
Now re-install the lower panel. The bottom has a rubber piece that slides into the body panel - make sure that is installed correctly.
To reset the push-pins just squeeze the end, pop them in and push the center pin.
Again it's easiest to get it aligned and put the center push-pin (just the base) in first to hold it there as you install the screws and the rest of the pins.
Install the wheel.
Done and no gaps!
The steps are the same for left or right, although you need to install the appropriate (L or R) mesh. I use pictures from either side as I go through the steps - don't let that bother you, it's the same process on either side.
First take the wheel off - I know a few people have asked if this is possible to install these with the wheel still on....I'd say not unless you are a contortionist.
There are 6 push-pins and 3 screws (1x 7mm, 2x 10mm) that hold the panel on. I'd suggest you not remove the center push-pin (shown in blue) until you remove all the other hardware. This will allow the panel to be held in place while you remove the screws under the car, otherwise the panel would want to fall as you remove the last screw and you would have to hold it up while working.
So, remove 5 push-pins. To remove them either use a door panel tool, or something else that will get behind the center pin and allow you to pull it out. In a pinch I have used a screwdriver or even a small set of diagonal cutters which work great just don't cut the center pin. It should come out easily, and once the pin is out you can simply pull the base out with your fingers.
Remove the 3 screws under the panel. The closest one to the outside is 7mm, the inner ones are 10mm. Note that the one furthest towards the front of the car goes in at an angle.
Once everything else is out go ahead and pull the center push-pin + base and remove the panel.
As you look inside this is what you will see.
(Pass)
(Drivers)
The inner "baffle" is held to the outer bodywork using double-sided tape in 2 locations. Although not necessary, I used a marker to outline the location of where the 2 pieces meet. This was useful as a guide later during reassembly because it showed me exactly where to put the new tape and how the 2 parts should align.
You need to separate the 2 pieces. You should be able to reach in both through the vent and from the back and CAREFULLY pull the 2 pieces apart. I used the door panel tool and slid it between the 2 parts as I pulled up with my other hand. You do not want to pry - especially with something pointy as that may put too much pressure on 1 spot on the outer panel and possibly cause damage. Another way may be to just use dental floss like you would to remove the chicklets.
Once these are separated, do your best to remove all the old tape on both panels. Now you want to tape the '"baffle" out of the way so you can get working on the mesh. I just used some painters tape and taped it to the electrical harness (passenger's side) or the wiper reservoir (drivers side).
Take the appropriate mesh (should be labeled as to what side it goes on and what side faces out) and lay it against the vent and check for any gaps. It should lay relatively flat. If it doesn't, you will have to make some field adjustments by carefully bending / twisting it to conform to the vent. The drivers side on my car fit almost perfectly and required just a slight twist to sit properly. The passengers side was a bit more challenging but eventually, with some adjustments, it fit.
Clean the surfaces that the mesh will be adhered to.
At this point you want to mount the mesh and support it (using Steve's towel method, or using a bungee cord attached to the jack handle or mirror, etc.) so you can start applying the adhesive. Once the mesh is in place, centered, and supported so it's not going to move, go ahead and apply the adhesive to the mesh where it meets the outer panel. You want to get a good bead in there but you also don't want to get too close to the vent opening because it would show from the outside.
Let it dry.
Optional step.
As I inspected the work I got concerned that only 1 side of these is actually glued down and holding the whole thing. What would happen if someone tried to push the mesh in on the '"free" side or, if after removing the support, the mesh had a gap on the inner side? It isn't glued there, which IMO is not a good thing.
So, to solve that I installed 3 adhesive backed tie-wrap holders just to the back of the mesh. They look like this.
I put a bead of adhesive around the holder just as an extra precaution if the base's adhesive back ever let go. If you decide to do this make sure you clean the surface where the holders will be mounted. Here they are installed.
After everything was dry I put a tiewrap through the outer edge of the mesh to the tie-wrap holder and cinched it up so the 'free' side of the mesh was held firmly in place. Cut the tie-wrap excess.
Remove any supports that are holding the mesh in place and make sure everything is OK.
Cut pieces of double-sided tape to the correct size you will need and mount them on the outer panel that you marked prior to removal. If you didn't mark them you can always apply the tape to the tabs on the baffle. Remove the tape holding the baffle back and join it to the outer panel.
Now re-install the lower panel. The bottom has a rubber piece that slides into the body panel - make sure that is installed correctly.
To reset the push-pins just squeeze the end, pop them in and push the center pin.
Again it's easiest to get it aligned and put the center push-pin (just the base) in first to hold it there as you install the screws and the rest of the pins.
Install the wheel.
Done and no gaps!
Last edited by LMB-C6; 05-11-2009 at 10:22 AM.
05-10-2009, 08:14 AM
#3
Team Owner
Great write-up, looks good but for me I will skip that mod do not have the patience to go through all those steps.
05-10-2009, 01:01 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
I am working on a stainless steel mesh side duct that will mount from the outside. Installation time 10-20 mins. tops for both sides. When I am ready with the finished product you will ALL be notified and will be AMAZED. be patient in the mean time.
Last edited by CV-4606; 05-10-2009 at 01:03 PM.
05-10-2009, 02:00 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
a) Put a crease in the mesh where it lays against the outer vent so it lays flat.
b) Provide some extra material on the inner side so you can cut it, bend it 90 degrees and apply adhesive so the mesh is held from both sides. Better yet - just do this to the mesh at the factory.
It's really not that bad of an install - it looks great on the car, giving it a finished look. But the manufacturer of these things could make things a little simpler for us.
09-23-2010, 12:01 PM
#15
Instructor
Member Since: Sep 2009
Location: Kenton DE
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Any progress on this???
