Nail in run flat. What now ?????
03-16-2009, 11:26 AM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: northshore ma
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nail in run flat. What now ?????
yesterday i noticed a nail in my rear tire. the nail is in the 1st tread from the outboard side of the car. checked it this morning and it hasn't lost any air. this my 1st experience with run flat tires. what should i do - leave it in, can i just pull it out or take it to a tire place ???
thanks
thanks
03-16-2009, 11:28 AM
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Northern, VA
Posts: 46,100
Received 2,478 Likes
on
1,941 Posts
St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
look in glove box; you've got a warranty for the runflats from GY. second, go to one that handles runflats; call first. let them pull it out. see if it leaks. they can patch it. if it's unpatchable, either complete or possible pro-rating of new tire.
03-16-2009, 11:35 AM
#5
Safety Car
If it's in the first block of treads, it may not be repairable. I would take it into a tire shop - make sure they have a "touchless" mounting system so your wheels don't get scratched up, and that they're familiar with Goodyear runflats - and have them pull the nail while the tire is still on the wheel. If it's just a long tack, it may not have punctured the tire.
If the tire has been punctured, see if they can fix it. But Goodyear's repair parameters for run flats is pretty strict. The puncture has to be in the middle third (or half) of the tire - and it sounds like you're too far off to the side. If so, get really familiar with your Goodyear roadhazard warranty - it should be with your owners manual. Chevy dealers, and Goodyear dealers, may both not realize you have a warranty!
I went through an ordeal with a "nail" in a front tire. Took it into Goodyear. They proceeded to scratch the wheel while they dismounted the tire. They found out it was a tack, and didn't puncture the tire. It took a while to get the replacement wheel. A lot more hassle than it should have been.
If the tire has been punctured, see if they can fix it. But Goodyear's repair parameters for run flats is pretty strict. The puncture has to be in the middle third (or half) of the tire - and it sounds like you're too far off to the side. If so, get really familiar with your Goodyear roadhazard warranty - it should be with your owners manual. Chevy dealers, and Goodyear dealers, may both not realize you have a warranty!
I went through an ordeal with a "nail" in a front tire. Took it into Goodyear. They proceeded to scratch the wheel while they dismounted the tire. They found out it was a tack, and didn't puncture the tire. It took a while to get the replacement wheel. A lot more hassle than it should have been.
03-16-2009, 11:37 AM
#6
Safety Car
your not completly helpless are you? why would you leave an object in ANY tire? have the tire fixed like any other! no wonder Obama won,, Oh Oh I got a nail in my tire, Oh what should I doooooo.... oh brother!
I had one close to the edge, just tell the guy to patch it!
I had one close to the edge, just tell the guy to patch it!
03-16-2009, 11:39 AM
#7
Pro
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: Destrehan La
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Walt and Spice are correct. I was wrong.
Last edited by raider4251; 03-16-2009 at 01:24 PM. Reason: Correction
03-16-2009, 11:42 AM
#8
Race Director
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Phila Suburbs 2023 C8 & 2013 650ix
Posts: 10,413
Received 2,221 Likes
on
1,139 Posts
Attached is the run flat warranty.
03-16-2009, 03:28 PM
#9
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: northshore ma
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
everybody - thanks for the replys and info. i am finding out - contrary to what cmy six says - that these run flat tires are quite a bit different than regular tires. they should be taken to a GY repair shop that is certified to fix run flats and there are not many shops that can do this. they do have a warranty and the only way you get it is if you bring it to one of these shops. it took me quite awhile to find one near me. best way to find a certified shop is to go on the website that walt white posted. i live about 30 nor'east of boston and they didn't have a certified shop in boston so i have to go to nashua.nh tomorrow a.m. about 1hr+ drive. i will let you know how i make out. btw it's an 06 original tires i assume with about 9k on them.
03-16-2009, 06:14 PM
#12
Race Director
This problem is pretty easy to fix.
03-16-2009, 06:18 PM
#13
Burning Brakes
I had the same problem about a year ago. I didn't have any problem finding a GY dealer to fix it for free, but I did have a problem finding a GY dealer that has the equipment to handle a rear tire.
I went to 3 dealerships, and called about 5 shops before I found a Just Tires that could do it.
Good luck
I went to 3 dealerships, and called about 5 shops before I found a Just Tires that could do it.
Good luck
03-16-2009, 06:37 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2008
Location: Stafford VA, home of our wolf den. No house break ins to date.
Posts: 8,022
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
never plug a tire. do a search...ive have posted in depth why and why its being close to being outlawed by DOT who has all the data ready to close it..
I am a tire engineer/testing engineer by trade. I have seen the disaster a plug can do, even testified in court cases for the Federal Govt in fatality cases on tire failures resulting from a plug repair.
I am a tire engineer/testing engineer by trade. I have seen the disaster a plug can do, even testified in court cases for the Federal Govt in fatality cases on tire failures resulting from a plug repair.
Last edited by wolfdogs; 03-16-2009 at 06:39 PM.
03-16-2009, 06:57 PM
#15
Moderator
As you have found out, ignore the advice of those that tell you to just get it patched. The correct repair is a combination plug/patch. Here is the official word on how to repair Goodyear run flats:
Also, note that a proper repair will maintain the tire's speed rating. Only on repair per tire to maintain speed rating.
Goodyear Run Flat Repair Procedure
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. CAREFULLY REMOVE THE TIRE COMPLETELY FROM THE RIM.
2. Locate the puncture on the inside of the tire and circle with crayon.
3. Remove puncturing object if it is still in the tire.
4. Carefully inspect tire on a good tire spreader, with ample light, which will show any cracks, breaks, punctures, damaged or broken beads.
5. Check liner for cuts, cracks, or holes which may cause the tubeless liner to lose air.
6. Check the injury with an inspection awl:
(a)Determine size and angle of injury.
(b)Check for ply or belt separation.
7. Reject any tire that has separation, loose cords, damaged bead(s), or any other non-repairable injury.
8. If the hole is simple and round, steps 9 through 17 of the puncture repair procedure will be successful.
NOTE: If the hole shows evidence of fabric splitting, such an injury cannot be properly repaired using this puncture repair procedure. Such an injury must be skived out and repaired as a section (reinforced) repair, which will maintain the serviceability of the tire, but will invalidate the tire's speed rating. If a section repair is necessary, the customer must be advised, before the repair is made, that the tire will lose its speed rating, and must not exceed operation at normal highway speeds.
9. Use a pre-buff cleaner and a scraper to remove contaminants from the liner in the area to be buffed around the injury.
10. Use a 7/32"carbide cutter for 1/4" repairs to clean out the puncture.
(a)Make sure that the drill follows the direction of the puncturing object.
(b)Always drill from inside to outside of tire.
11. Using chemical vulcanizing cement, lightly coat at least 1/2 of the tapered end of the repair plug. Install the plug in the prepared puncture according to the manufacturer's instructions. Trim the liner side of the plug slightly higher than the surface of the liner without stretching the plug.
12. Center the patch (or patch template) over the injury without removing the backing. Adhere to patch or template instructions, as to positioning as related to bead location. Mark around the outside edge of the patch, approximately 1/4" larger than the patch.
13. Buff the liner and plug at the puncture location. The buffed area should be slightly larger than the patch. The buffed surface should be finely grained (RMA 1 or 2 texture) and even for proper bonding. Use care to prevent burning the rubber with the buffing tool. Do not buff through the liner. Do not buff into the marking crayon.
14. Clean the buffing dust from the tire using only a vacuum or brush. Do not use gasoline or other petroleum solvents on the buffed area.
15. Coat the buffed liner surface and the patch with one evenly applied coat of chemical vulcanizing cement in accordance with the recommendations of the repair materials manufacturer. Allow the cement to dry thoroughly. Do not touch the cemented areas.
16. Install the patch with the beads of the tire in the relaxed position. Position the patch over the puncture according to the markings on the patch. Stitch the entire patch starting from the center, keeping the strokes close together to avoid trapping air under the patch.
17. Cut off the protruding end of the plug about 1/8" above the tread surface.
18. FINAL INSPECTION - The repair must seal the inner liner and fill the injury. After remounting and inflating check the repair, both beads and valve with a soap solution to assure a complete seal.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. CAREFULLY REMOVE THE TIRE COMPLETELY FROM THE RIM.
2. Locate the puncture on the inside of the tire and circle with crayon.
3. Remove puncturing object if it is still in the tire.
4. Carefully inspect tire on a good tire spreader, with ample light, which will show any cracks, breaks, punctures, damaged or broken beads.
5. Check liner for cuts, cracks, or holes which may cause the tubeless liner to lose air.
6. Check the injury with an inspection awl:
(a)Determine size and angle of injury.
(b)Check for ply or belt separation.
7. Reject any tire that has separation, loose cords, damaged bead(s), or any other non-repairable injury.
8. If the hole is simple and round, steps 9 through 17 of the puncture repair procedure will be successful.
NOTE: If the hole shows evidence of fabric splitting, such an injury cannot be properly repaired using this puncture repair procedure. Such an injury must be skived out and repaired as a section (reinforced) repair, which will maintain the serviceability of the tire, but will invalidate the tire's speed rating. If a section repair is necessary, the customer must be advised, before the repair is made, that the tire will lose its speed rating, and must not exceed operation at normal highway speeds.
9. Use a pre-buff cleaner and a scraper to remove contaminants from the liner in the area to be buffed around the injury.
10. Use a 7/32"carbide cutter for 1/4" repairs to clean out the puncture.
(a)Make sure that the drill follows the direction of the puncturing object.
(b)Always drill from inside to outside of tire.
11. Using chemical vulcanizing cement, lightly coat at least 1/2 of the tapered end of the repair plug. Install the plug in the prepared puncture according to the manufacturer's instructions. Trim the liner side of the plug slightly higher than the surface of the liner without stretching the plug.
12. Center the patch (or patch template) over the injury without removing the backing. Adhere to patch or template instructions, as to positioning as related to bead location. Mark around the outside edge of the patch, approximately 1/4" larger than the patch.
13. Buff the liner and plug at the puncture location. The buffed area should be slightly larger than the patch. The buffed surface should be finely grained (RMA 1 or 2 texture) and even for proper bonding. Use care to prevent burning the rubber with the buffing tool. Do not buff through the liner. Do not buff into the marking crayon.
14. Clean the buffing dust from the tire using only a vacuum or brush. Do not use gasoline or other petroleum solvents on the buffed area.
15. Coat the buffed liner surface and the patch with one evenly applied coat of chemical vulcanizing cement in accordance with the recommendations of the repair materials manufacturer. Allow the cement to dry thoroughly. Do not touch the cemented areas.
16. Install the patch with the beads of the tire in the relaxed position. Position the patch over the puncture according to the markings on the patch. Stitch the entire patch starting from the center, keeping the strokes close together to avoid trapping air under the patch.
17. Cut off the protruding end of the plug about 1/8" above the tread surface.
18. FINAL INSPECTION - The repair must seal the inner liner and fill the injury. After remounting and inflating check the repair, both beads and valve with a soap solution to assure a complete seal.
Goodyear Speed-Rated Tire Repair Limits
II. DETAILED POLICY - Puncture Repair of Goodyear Speed-Rated Tires
The puncture must be confined to the tread area only.
(See "Repair Area", item III-B).
Restrictions on the number and size of repairs must be followed.
(See "Puncture Repair Limits" table, item III-C).
A detailed repair procedure must be followed.
(See "Repair Procedure", item III-E).
A Goodyear speed-rated new tire repaired in strict accordance with items II-A, B & C, will retain its speed rating.
III. REPAIR PROCEDURE FOR SPEED-RATED TIRES
GENERAL
The objective of the puncture repair is to seal the tire against loss of inflation pressure and to prevent damage to the carcass from moisture. In all puncture repairs approved by Goodyear, the hole must be filled with a plug, and a patch covering the hole must be applied according to repair material manufacturer instructions to the inside of the tire. Never repair tires which are worn below 2/32" tread depth.
NOTE: No tire is to be repaired without first being removed from the rim.
REPAIR AREA
Repairing is limited to the tread area only within the outside grooves. No repairs are allowed in the tread area beyond the outside grooves or sidewall.
PUNCTURE REPAIR LIMITS
TIRE SPEED...............MAX. NUMBER...........MAX REPAIR
(SPEED SYMBOL)................................. ....DIAMETER
130 mph and over ...........1......................1/4 in. (6mm)
(H, V, Z)
II. DETAILED POLICY - Puncture Repair of Goodyear Speed-Rated Tires
The puncture must be confined to the tread area only.
(See "Repair Area", item III-B).
Restrictions on the number and size of repairs must be followed.
(See "Puncture Repair Limits" table, item III-C).
A detailed repair procedure must be followed.
(See "Repair Procedure", item III-E).
A Goodyear speed-rated new tire repaired in strict accordance with items II-A, B & C, will retain its speed rating.
III. REPAIR PROCEDURE FOR SPEED-RATED TIRES
GENERAL
The objective of the puncture repair is to seal the tire against loss of inflation pressure and to prevent damage to the carcass from moisture. In all puncture repairs approved by Goodyear, the hole must be filled with a plug, and a patch covering the hole must be applied according to repair material manufacturer instructions to the inside of the tire. Never repair tires which are worn below 2/32" tread depth.
NOTE: No tire is to be repaired without first being removed from the rim.
REPAIR AREA
Repairing is limited to the tread area only within the outside grooves. No repairs are allowed in the tread area beyond the outside grooves or sidewall.
PUNCTURE REPAIR LIMITS
TIRE SPEED...............MAX. NUMBER...........MAX REPAIR
(SPEED SYMBOL)................................. ....DIAMETER
130 mph and over ...........1......................1/4 in. (6mm)
(H, V, Z)
03-16-2009, 06:57 PM
#16
Le Mans Master
never plug a tire. do a search...ive have posted in depth why and why its being close to being outlawed by DOT who has all the data ready to close it..
I am a tire engineer/testing engineer by trade. I have seen the disaster a plug can do, even testified in court cases for the Federal Govt in fatality cases on tire failures resulting from a plug repair.
I am a tire engineer/testing engineer by trade. I have seen the disaster a plug can do, even testified in court cases for the Federal Govt in fatality cases on tire failures resulting from a plug repair.
03-16-2009, 07:03 PM
#17
Safety Car
But assuming you just want everyone to be assertive and just resolve their problems, how about this: "It shoud be easy to take care of, and you shouldn't worry so much. Mark the spot where the nail is sticking into the tire with a silver tipped pen or chalk. Move the car so that the mark (and nail) is at the top of the tire. Pull out the nail. Take some soapy water and coat the puncture mark. if there's no bubbles, there should be no leak. If you see bubbles, take it to a tire shop (hopefully one that's nearby - don't drive extended distances on runflats with low pressure - you could ruin the tire - oh wait - there's no dealer nearby... sorry, just keep stopping along the way to put air in it, and drive slow!). Tell them to fix it even it they don't want to, or don't know anything about runflats. Bitch and moan if they scratch your wheels because they don't really know runflats and don't have a Hunter mounting system. And good luck next time you take your car up to speed!"
Hmmmm.... maybe asking the forum for pointers and what to watch for isn't such a bad thing....
Last edited by WAwatchnut; 03-16-2009 at 07:07 PM.
03-16-2009, 07:32 PM
#18
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: northshore ma
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hey everybody thanks for the info/advice. great site !!!! wolfdog - i tried search couldn't get your post on the tires. jimmy2x i had same experience. there were alot of certified GY shops in my area but they weren't certififed to do run flats. the one shop that was certified couldn't handle the vette tire. i did get a lead on a sam's club but they weren't certifided .
zymurgy - great post - thanks. when i take the care 2morrow i will be watching and will b asking so i will see if they follow this procedure. what i really think is that since the nail is in the 1st row of treads is that i will have to get a new tire - prorated
thanks spice
zymurgy - great post - thanks. when i take the care 2morrow i will be watching and will b asking so i will see if they follow this procedure. what i really think is that since the nail is in the 1st row of treads is that i will have to get a new tire - prorated
thanks spice
03-16-2009, 07:52 PM
#19
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: northshore ma
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks wawatchnut. in my business - commerical fishing one of the most dangeous jobs -ie being 100nm offshore @ times in all kinds of weather u DON"T WANT TO MAKE A MISTAKE. i don't want to make a mistake on a thing as simple as tire 
03-16-2009, 07:58 PM
#20
Intermediate
Member Since: Jul 2008
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Only go to a GY shop - not a 'certified GY shop'.
Had a flat (4 inch cut in the middle of the tire!) on the rear few months ago. Went to Wheel Works and a GY certified shop. Both told me no warranty. Wanted >$500 for a new tire.
Fortunately, I've been on the forum long enough an insisted that the GY certified shop call GY to check in regard to warranty. Apparently it worked. The GY certified shop told me to go to a GY shop (owned by GY).
Got to the GY shop - within 15 min I was out of there with a brand new tire.
Run a search here: http://www.goodyeardealers.com/ - only go to a Goodyear Auto Service Ctrs.
Good luck!
Had a flat (4 inch cut in the middle of the tire!) on the rear few months ago. Went to Wheel Works and a GY certified shop. Both told me no warranty. Wanted >$500 for a new tire.
Fortunately, I've been on the forum long enough an insisted that the GY certified shop call GY to check in regard to warranty. Apparently it worked. The GY certified shop told me to go to a GY shop (owned by GY).
Got to the GY shop - within 15 min I was out of there with a brand new tire.
Run a search here: http://www.goodyeardealers.com/ - only go to a Goodyear Auto Service Ctrs.
Good luck!
