Door strike rattle/banging noise over bumps
03-13-2009, 09:54 AM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Door strike rattle/banging noise over bumps
Does your driver's and passenger door strike rattle going over bumps? I'm pretty sure it's in that area.
Took it to my local body shop guy and since the door jamb is all self-contained he can do nothing.
Hate to take it to the dealer but I just may have to if there is no recourse.
Any ideas?
Took it to my local body shop guy and since the door jamb is all self-contained he can do nothing.
Hate to take it to the dealer but I just may have to if there is no recourse.
Any ideas?
03-13-2009, 01:22 PM
#4
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Noises
Does your driver's and passenger door strike rattle going over bumps? I'm pretty sure it's in that area.
Took it to my local body shop guy and since the door jamb is all self-contained he can do nothing.
Hate to take it to the dealer but I just may have to if there is no recourse.
Any ideas?
Took it to my local body shop guy and since the door jamb is all self-contained he can do nothing.
Hate to take it to the dealer but I just may have to if there is no recourse.
Any ideas?
HARRY
03-13-2009, 02:51 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I had the same rattle as you have described. It was the drivers door that was miss aligned at the factory. The inside door panel would rub on the door frame going over bumps at low speeds. I removed the door panel and realigned the door and no more sounds. It took awhile to determine the problem. Good luck. I hope this helps.
HARRY
HARRY
How did you do this? What did you realign?
03-13-2009, 03:49 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
My passenger side door had a rattle in it.
The door panels are partially attached with screws within the door handles, and behind the door push-button plate (on the passenger's side).
It turned out that one of the screws was loose.
I made sure all of them were tight on both doors.
Now, no rattling what so ever.
The door panels are partially attached with screws within the door handles, and behind the door push-button plate (on the passenger's side).
It turned out that one of the screws was loose.
I made sure all of them were tight on both doors.
Now, no rattling what so ever.
03-13-2009, 05:03 PM
#7
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Quiet that door rattle down on bumps.
Does your driver's and passenger door strike rattle going over bumps? I'm pretty sure it's in that area.
Took it to my local body shop guy and since the door jamb is all self-contained he can do nothing.
Hate to take it to the dealer but I just may have to if there is no recourse.
Any ideas?
Took it to my local body shop guy and since the door jamb is all self-contained he can do nothing.
Hate to take it to the dealer but I just may have to if there is no recourse.
Any ideas?
The doors on a C6 can have a MAXIMUM of three (3) spacers (shims) per door. To add spacers, the inside door panels has to be removed because the latch nuts are INSIDE the door and cannot be gotten from the outside. You can look inside the door "U" latch assembly on the "B" pillar (door latch) area and notice a whitish colored switch bumper plate in the rear of the assembly and you can see where the door "U" latch hits, this will let you know how far to the left or right the "U" hook is hitting (depends on which side of the car you are on). The "U" latch should be well toward the trunk to get the most contact and support for the door.
Now here is the cheap part:
#12451059 Spacer $3.88 ea. from the dealer.
Tell them you want them to do it under warranty. I had to have two shims installed in my passange door and it solved the door rattle on bumps, it would be a good idea to silicon lube of door latch, etc.
This should probably solve your door rattle but will probably create some ones with the surrounding gaskets, will have to lubricate all rubber goods with silicon, I like the spray because it gets into the cracks, might have to do several times.
Hopefully, this will solve your rattle problem. Have a nice day!
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sam-garcia (11-11-2022)
03-13-2009, 05:38 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Well guess what, I might just have the answer for you with your noisy doors.
The doors on a C6 can have a MAXIMUM of three (3) spacers (shims) per door. To add spacers, the inside door panels has to be removed because the latch nuts are INSIDE the door and cannot be gotten from the outside. You can look inside the door "U" latch assembly on the "B" pillar (door latch) area and notice a whitish colored switch bumper plate in the rear of the assembly and you can see where the door "U" latch hits, this will let you know how far to the left or right the "U" hook is hitting (depends on which side of the car you are on). The "U" latch should be well toward the trunk to get the most contact and support for the door.
Now here is the cheap part:
#12451059 Spacer $3.88 ea. from the dealer.
Tell them you want them to do it under warranty. I had to have two shims installed in my passange door and it solved the door rattle on bumps, it would be a good idea to silicon lube of door latch, etc.
This should probably solve your door rattle but will probably create some ones with the surrounding gaskets, will have to lubricate all rubber goods with silicon, I like the spray because it gets into the cracks, might have to do several times.
Hopefully, this will solve your rattle problem. Have a nice day!
The doors on a C6 can have a MAXIMUM of three (3) spacers (shims) per door. To add spacers, the inside door panels has to be removed because the latch nuts are INSIDE the door and cannot be gotten from the outside. You can look inside the door "U" latch assembly on the "B" pillar (door latch) area and notice a whitish colored switch bumper plate in the rear of the assembly and you can see where the door "U" latch hits, this will let you know how far to the left or right the "U" hook is hitting (depends on which side of the car you are on). The "U" latch should be well toward the trunk to get the most contact and support for the door.
Now here is the cheap part:
#12451059 Spacer $3.88 ea. from the dealer.
Tell them you want them to do it under warranty. I had to have two shims installed in my passange door and it solved the door rattle on bumps, it would be a good idea to silicon lube of door latch, etc.
This should probably solve your door rattle but will probably create some ones with the surrounding gaskets, will have to lubricate all rubber goods with silicon, I like the spray because it gets into the cracks, might have to do several times.
Hopefully, this will solve your rattle problem. Have a nice day!
I'll buy the parts and take it to my bodyshop guy I trust.
04-04-2009, 08:13 PM
#9
Pro
Well guess what, I might just have the answer for you with your noisy doors.
The doors on a C6 can have a MAXIMUM of three (3) spacers (shims) per door. To add spacers, the inside door panels has to be removed because the latch nuts are INSIDE the door and cannot be gotten from the outside. You can look inside the door "U" latch assembly on the "B" pillar (door latch) area and notice a whitish colored switch bumper plate in the rear of the assembly and you can see where the door "U" latch hits, this will let you know how far to the left or right the "U" hook is hitting (depends on which side of the car you are on). The "U" latch should be well toward the trunk to get the most contact and support for the door.
Now here is the cheap part:
#12451059 Spacer $3.88 ea. from the dealer.
Tell them you want them to do it under warranty. I had to have two shims installed in my passange door and it solved the door rattle on bumps, it would be a good idea to silicon lube of door latch, etc.
This should probably solve your door rattle but will probably create some ones with the surrounding gaskets, will have to lubricate all rubber goods with silicon, I like the spray because it gets into the cracks, might have to do several times.
Hopefully, this will solve your rattle problem. Have a nice day!
The doors on a C6 can have a MAXIMUM of three (3) spacers (shims) per door. To add spacers, the inside door panels has to be removed because the latch nuts are INSIDE the door and cannot be gotten from the outside. You can look inside the door "U" latch assembly on the "B" pillar (door latch) area and notice a whitish colored switch bumper plate in the rear of the assembly and you can see where the door "U" latch hits, this will let you know how far to the left or right the "U" hook is hitting (depends on which side of the car you are on). The "U" latch should be well toward the trunk to get the most contact and support for the door.
Now here is the cheap part:
#12451059 Spacer $3.88 ea. from the dealer.
Tell them you want them to do it under warranty. I had to have two shims installed in my passange door and it solved the door rattle on bumps, it would be a good idea to silicon lube of door latch, etc.
This should probably solve your door rattle but will probably create some ones with the surrounding gaskets, will have to lubricate all rubber goods with silicon, I like the spray because it gets into the cracks, might have to do several times.
Hopefully, this will solve your rattle problem. Have a nice day!
How tough is it to get to the inside of the door to gain access to the latch nuts?
Is it a DIY fix?
Last edited by Monts; 04-05-2009 at 12:38 AM.
04-05-2009, 02:43 AM
#10
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Yes, you can do this DIY unless under warranty.
I think this is my problem. It took awhile to pin-point, many times over speed bumps. I noticed the drivers door has 3 of these spacers and the passenger side only has two and is making noise.
How tough is it to get to the inside of the door to gain access to the latch nuts?
Is it a DIY fix?
How tough is it to get to the inside of the door to gain access to the latch nuts?
Is it a DIY fix?
1. Pry the push button door switch out and remove screw,
2. Pry plastic oblong cover off under door handle and remove two allen bolts,
3. Under inside door door handle remove screw or bolt,
4. Under side of door there is a slot and you pry door panel off all the way around,
5. Disconnect connector to door panel,
6. Remove black cover by door latch so that you can get inside the door to get to "U" bolt nuts to remove so that you can insert shims on the outside and then replace nuts and retightenen. Make sure the "U" bolt is as far as it can go toward the trunk (rear of the car). DON'T DROP THE NUTS, ETC.
Tip: Look inside the "V" grove on the "B' pillar and note where the "U' bolt hits the white door switch lever, by how close the "U" bolt hits toward the rear trunk area will determine how many spacers (shims) you need.
7. Test and relube with silicon spray.
8. Reverse procedure to put door panel back on, be sure to realigned the guide studs up.
Have fun! This DIY poject ougth to keep you out of trouble, hopefully!
Note: you can use up to three (3) spacers (shims) on a door latch. The "spacer" cost $3.88 ea. from the dealer, part #12451059.
Last edited by 2006c6keller; 04-05-2009 at 02:46 AM.
04-05-2009, 03:13 PM
#11
Pro
You have to take the inside door panel off:
1. Pry the push button door switch out and remove screw,
2. Pry plastic oblong cover off under door handle and remove two allen bolts,
3. Under inside door door handle remove screw or bolt,
4. Under side of door there is a slot and you pry door panel off all the way around,
5. Disconnect connector to door panel,
6. Remove black cover by door latch so that you can get inside the door to get to "U" bolt nuts to remove so that you can insert shims on the outside and then replace nuts and retightenen. Make sure the "U" bolt is as far as it can go toward the trunk (rear of the car). DON'T DROP THE NUTS, ETC.
Tip: Look inside the "V" grove on the "B' pillar and note where the "U' bolt hits the white door switch lever, by how close the "U" bolt hits toward the rear trunk area will determine how many spacers (shims) you need.
7. Test and relube with silicon spray.
8. Reverse procedure to put door panel back on, be sure to realigned the guide studs up.
Have fun! This DIY poject ougth to keep you out of trouble, hopefully!
Note: you can use up to three (3) spacers (shims) on a door latch. The "spacer" cost $3.88 ea. from the dealer, part #12451059.
1. Pry the push button door switch out and remove screw,
2. Pry plastic oblong cover off under door handle and remove two allen bolts,
3. Under inside door door handle remove screw or bolt,
4. Under side of door there is a slot and you pry door panel off all the way around,
5. Disconnect connector to door panel,
6. Remove black cover by door latch so that you can get inside the door to get to "U" bolt nuts to remove so that you can insert shims on the outside and then replace nuts and retightenen. Make sure the "U" bolt is as far as it can go toward the trunk (rear of the car). DON'T DROP THE NUTS, ETC.
Tip: Look inside the "V" grove on the "B' pillar and note where the "U' bolt hits the white door switch lever, by how close the "U" bolt hits toward the rear trunk area will determine how many spacers (shims) you need.
7. Test and relube with silicon spray.
8. Reverse procedure to put door panel back on, be sure to realigned the guide studs up.
Have fun! This DIY poject ougth to keep you out of trouble, hopefully!
Note: you can use up to three (3) spacers (shims) on a door latch. The "spacer" cost $3.88 ea. from the dealer, part #12451059.
Is the black roller on the latch supposed to hit where the metal V guide on the pillar is, or at the black catch hook? The U part of the bolt is hitting in the middle of the white plate (the driver door hits closer to the trunk edge of the white plate and rarely makes a noise).
As much as I dislike going to the dealer (and since the car is only one week old), I guess a should have them take care of it.
It is getting more noticeable over everyday bumps and embarrassing when I take buds for a ride. I thought I would try a little tape on the striker until I can get to a dealer.
Thanks again.
Last edited by Monts; 04-05-2009 at 03:40 PM.
04-05-2009, 06:49 PM
#13
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Keep the "U" bolt toward the trunk area on the door latch!
Thanks for the reply!
Is the black roller on the latch supposed to hit where the metal V guide on the pillar is, or at the black catch hook? The U part of the bolt is hitting in the middle of the white plate (the driver door hits closer to the trunk edge of the white plate and rarely makes a noise).
As much as I dislike going to the dealer (and since the car is only one week old), I guess a should have them take care of it.
It is getting more noticeable over everyday bumps and embarrassing when I take buds for a ride. I thought I would try a little tape on the striker until I can get to a dealer.
Thanks again.
Is the black roller on the latch supposed to hit where the metal V guide on the pillar is, or at the black catch hook? The U part of the bolt is hitting in the middle of the white plate (the driver door hits closer to the trunk edge of the white plate and rarely makes a noise).
As much as I dislike going to the dealer (and since the car is only one week old), I guess a should have them take care of it.
It is getting more noticeable over everyday bumps and embarrassing when I take buds for a ride. I thought I would try a little tape on the striker until I can get to a dealer.
Thanks again.
I would have the "U" bolt on the white plate TOWARD the rear (trunk) and the metal part of the "U" bolt would be snugly in the "V" groove and keep the door from bouncing around.
One person was watching his car being built and he had to stop them to redo his hood, trunk, or something because it was way off.
The tape idea is good for a few days and then will tear up. Also spray all your rubber door and window gaskets with spray silicon because it gets into the cracks better, may have to do more than once.
04-05-2009, 09:46 PM
#14
Drifting
Change the striker on the door. It's an easy job, parts cost 16.00 each. That will fix your problem.
Does your driver's and passenger door strike rattle going over bumps? I'm pretty sure it's in that area.
Took it to my local body shop guy and since the door jamb is all self-contained he can do nothing.
Hate to take it to the dealer but I just may have to if there is no recourse.
Any ideas?
Took it to my local body shop guy and since the door jamb is all self-contained he can do nothing.
Hate to take it to the dealer but I just may have to if there is no recourse.
Any ideas?
04-05-2009, 10:27 PM
#15
Pro
Will a new striker help on a new car? What would be different compared to the striker I already have, it looks good to me?
To change the striker one still needs to get inside the door, correct?
04-05-2009, 10:56 PM
#17
Drifting
There was a problem with the strikers. Take you hand and grab the striker and move it up and down, you will find it moves.
I changed both on my 2008 Z06 at 1500 miles. It's now rattle free! A very cheap fix. yes you have to take the door panels off, simple job.. Or you could let your dealer screw it up?
I changed both on my 2008 Z06 at 1500 miles. It's now rattle free! A very cheap fix. yes you have to take the door panels off, simple job.. Or you could let your dealer screw it up?
04-06-2009, 12:42 AM
#18
Pro
There was a problem with the strikers. Take you hand and grab the striker and move it up and down, you will find it moves.
I changed both on my 2008 Z06 at 1500 miles. It's now rattle free! A very cheap fix. yes you have to take the door panels off, simple job.. Or you could let your dealer screw it up?
I changed both on my 2008 Z06 at 1500 miles. It's now rattle free! A very cheap fix. yes you have to take the door panels off, simple job.. Or you could let your dealer screw it up?
04-06-2009, 01:51 AM
#19
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Any more details on what it sounds like? I have been trying to diagnose a thud sound (like the latch catching when you close the rear hatch) when I make slow turns of bumps. I checked that the battery is tight, that the headers and exhaust are away from the heat sheild, had a passenger sit in the passenger seat, all with no luck. I was think it could be the door but haven't tested for noises while driving with the door open yet, but the door seems tightly closed.
---Matthew Hicks
---Matthew Hicks
04-06-2009, 10:48 AM
#20
Pro
There was a problem with the strikers. Take you hand and grab the striker and move it up and down, you will find it moves.
I changed both on my 2008 Z06 at 1500 miles. It's now rattle free! A very cheap fix. yes you have to take the door panels off, simple job.. Or you could let your dealer screw it up?
I changed both on my 2008 Z06 at 1500 miles. It's now rattle free! A very cheap fix. yes you have to take the door panels off, simple job.. Or you could let your dealer screw it up?
Tried pushing on and moving the striker and it does in fact make a noise like a clicking metallic creaking kind of thing.
I checked my 2006 latch alignment and the number of spacers and it's set up just like my new 2009. The 2006 has been door rattle free its whole life.
So maybe it is a bad striker after all.