Gary Thompson

you think? been there done that, dealer was useless just like always, I talked to an engineer at the birthday bash last year and he told me to change the strikers, it did in fact fix the problem.

I could have taken it to the dealer ten times and let them screw up my $75000.00 car, but I thought $32.00 and an hour of my time was a better option.

Now ask me about my drivers seat cushion full of wrinkles at 1500 miles. It was a little more expensive but is all good now.

I have had it with dealers treating me like I bought a cobalt instead of a vette.

Monts

Well I got lucky at the dealer.

The tech had seen this particular problem before. The latch pin was indeed loose so as a temporary (or perhaps permanent fix), he took a center punch to a few spots next to the pin and tightened things up on both doors. The dealer ordered new door latches for me anyway, but the tech said that I may prefer leaving these in place, avoiding another trip to the dealer and requiring both inside door panels to be removed.

So far so good!

2006c6keller

I checked my striker, I assume you mean the "U" bolt that bolts into the door from the inside and uses the spacers or shims, the part with black roller and riveted on the end. You have to take the door panel off to get to the nuts. Mine is tight, no play or clicking! Please confirm that we are talking about the same part. Thanks!

Monts

Yes, this is the part; I thought my latch was tight but the part with the black roller and a rivet at the end had a slight bit of play in it. By spreading out the rivet and center punching around the other end of the tubular latch, the rattle was eliminated.

2006c6keller

Thanks for your imput and reply!

RBLUVETT

There was another thread about this a few months ago and the fix then was to have a trusted welder hit the striker inside with a couple of quick shots with an arc welder; seems the rivets were not being crimped enough by the supplier.
My 09 has started doing the door rattle routine so now its decision time; dealer fix or me fix.

Monts

Exactly.

Anything to tighten the striker and keep it from moving at the crimped rivet end. A small tack weld at the end should work too.

My tech used a hammer and a punch (glad I wasn't looking). Try a simple fix yourself or have the dealer try to tighten the striker. If all fails, order new strikers, open the door panel up and put them in.

So far mine is still good.

B&BVettes

If it's under warranty, take it back to the dealer.

jbyrd16z

Thanks for all the great info! My 2008 with 3000 miles on it has the passenger door rattling. Dealer is going to replace striker to hopefully fix the problem. That part seems like the last thing on the car that would go bad.

StanNH

I had the same rattle with my 2009 in the passenger side door. The problem was, in fact, the door striker. It's a two piece striker and, if not perfectly aligned, will rattle. My dealer spot welded the striker and the rattle disappeared permanently.

Now my driver's side door has developed the rattle over hard bumps. This time my dealer ordered a new striker. The tech thinks the strikers have been modified to eliminate the problem, but he's not sure. If the new striker works, fine. If not, he'll just spot weld the new striker.

On my car, you can move the striker with your hand and recreate the rattle if you shake it.

Monts

Why not just spot weld the striker and eliminate having to leave the car and open up the door?

StanNH

I think he wants to see if the new part will fix the problem. It's a simple fix and less time for them than welding the piece. Either way, they take the striker out to do the work.

Monts

If that is the case, get a new striker. They fixed mine without needing to remove the striker (or anything else for that matter). Just the slightest punch or tack weld should hold it in place.

Gary Thompson

Greetings

I don't think I would let them near my car with a hammer and punch. The side air bag sensor sits behind the striker in each door..

Wham oh!

Monts

Good point.

I wonder if the tech knew about that. He said mine wasn't the first he fixed with a punch. I guess better the dealer busting something than me.

MurphMan2

...but a spot welder is ok?

Why not just get the part and replace it according to the bulletin. That's what I would do.

This isn't directed at Gary Thompson but to all the others who want some Chevy 'tech' welding on the inside of your car.

Monts

[QUOTE=MurphMan2;1570188610]...

"Why not just get the part and replace it according to the bulletin".


I my case they didn't have the striker in stock and the rattle was driving me nuts. Since they fixed them before I figured it saves me another trip to the dealer and no disassembly. Had it not worked, new strikers for me.

jbyrd16z

Guys......if any of you take your car to have the striker plate replaced insist that the tech is extremely careful removing your door panel or even stand there and watch them. Took mine to a dealer (so called Colorado's #1 Corvette Dealer - Purifoy Ft. Lupton) and the tech chipped the hell out of door prying against it taking the panel off. If the striker goes bad with my other door, I'm trying the repair myself. One of the gentlemen in a previous thread said that some dealers treat you like you bought a Cobalt......that was this dealers attitude. Ended up touching up the spots until I can figure out what to do. They said they would try to fix it, but I don't want them touching it again. Can't believe the bad service out there.

Daytona Bob

Pic of striker?

Gary Thompson

There is a opening about a inch wide at the inside bottom of the door panel used to remove it. Gee you would think a corvette train mechanic would know that....