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Typical life of key fob battery?

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Old 08-17-2008, 02:57 PM
  #21  
jabez
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FOB batteries are only 3 or 4 bucks. I bought a couple and just threw them in the glove compartment for later .
Old 08-17-2008, 07:33 PM
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It will also depend mostly on how much you use the push buttons to open the doors and trunk. Thats the big drain on the battery.
Old 08-17-2008, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by grease zert
My key fob lasted approximately 3 years. Battery went dead, had to open the vehicle up using the key in the trunk and place the fob in the clovebox. If you've gone 2 1/2 years, I'd recommend changing it out.
Was it difficult to open the driver side door past the window-seal rubber?
Old 08-17-2008, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by SpryGeezer
Was it difficult to open the driver side door past the window-seal rubber?
I think he means that he opened the back with the key and then pulled the cable door release back there.
Old 08-17-2008, 08:16 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by SpryGeezer
Was it difficult to open the driver side door past the window-seal rubber?
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Originally Posted by cclive
I think he means that he opened the back with the key and then pulled the cable door release back there.
Does pulling the cable door release index the driver side window down to clear the window-seal rubber?
Old 08-17-2008, 08:23 PM
  #26  
Vinnie T
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Originally Posted by HOTRODSRJ
This is a very good question because I aways thought that the "starting" recognition circuit was simply a reflective digital chip (RFID) that did not need a battery to operate per se. It would certainly make sense from a design function sense not to depend on a battery to get into your car or start it with the passive chip technology.

The battery I thought was to operate the other functions on the buttons.
That's an interesting thought. I may need to explore that farther. It makes sense since it would seem that it would be a big drain on the fob battery to require an active recongintion each time the ignition was started or you approached the car for the door unlock. My wife's Tacoma has the "RFID" ignition interlock and it occasionally takes a couple twists of the key before it recongizeds it. Very similar to how the Vette acted.
Old 08-17-2008, 08:29 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Vinnie T
Has anyone had to replace the battery in their C6 key fob yet? Was out today and the system seemed to have a hard time picking up the fob signal to start the car. Only happened once of the 4 or 5 times I started it today, and there was no other warning of a low battery. Hopefully, it was just a one-time hiccup, but figured I'd see if anyone had an idea what the typical battery life might be. Anyone carry a spare battery in their car?
I'm curious as to whether you got a "No FOB detected" message or did you assume that it did not find the FOB? Some of the vehicles (inlcuding mine) have a problem starting up which seems to be a software glitch.
Old 08-17-2008, 08:42 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Mad*Max
I'm curious as to whether you got a "No FOB detected" message or did you assume that it did not find the FOB? Some of the vehicles (inlcuding mine) have a problem starting up which seems to be a software glitch.
Yes, it did give a "no fob detected" message which is what had me baffled since it was in the car. I should have mentioned that in my original post. And now that I think about, obviously no green light on the ignition button. I took my foot off the brake and then put it back on, and then got the green light and it started. Now you got me wondering if maybe it wasn't detecting that the brake was depressed in order to start.
Old 08-17-2008, 10:17 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by cclive
It will also depend mostly on how much you use the push buttons to open the doors and trunk. Thats the big drain on the battery.
I never use the buttons and my battery died at 36 months. The indication was that the drivers door would not unlock when I got near the door--eddie
Old 08-18-2008, 07:34 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Vinnie T
Yes, it did give a "no fob detected" message which is what had me baffled since it was in the car. I should have mentioned that in my original post. And now that I think about, obviously no green light on the ignition button. I took my foot off the brake and then put it back on, and then got the green light and it started. Now you got me wondering if maybe it wasn't detecting that the brake was depressed in order to start.
If it didn't detect the brake being pressed, it would say "Press Brake to Start" (provided it detected the FOB).
Old 08-18-2008, 10:51 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Vinnie T
That's an interesting thought. I may need to explore that farther. It makes sense since it would seem that it would be a big drain on the fob battery to require an active recongintion each time the ignition was started or you approached the car for the door unlock. My wife's Tacoma has the "RFID" ignition interlock and it occasionally takes a couple twists of the key before it recongizeds it. Very similar to how the Vette acted.
I have tried removing the battery from the fob and mine still worked in the glovebox slot to start the car!
Old 08-18-2008, 10:58 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by SpryGeezer
Originally Posted by SpryGeezer
Was it difficult to open the driver side door past the window-seal rubber?
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


Does pulling the cable door release index the driver side window down to clear the window-seal rubber?
Yes.
Old 08-18-2008, 11:03 AM
  #33  
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Gotta love Wal-Mart.

Mobil 1 cheap. Especially in the 5 quart size.
Some premium car care products cheap.
Even FOB batteries. (didn't know that until now)
Old 08-18-2008, 01:22 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Vinnie T
Note: The case is not easy to get open. It's got a slot on one end like you could use a dime or penny to open it. Wouldn't budge. Be careful how to pry it open so you don't ding up the case. Get it started and then work your way around the edge.
I'll second that. Use the thickest coin that will slide in the slot -- a nickel or a quarter. Once I got it started I inserted a dull knife blade into the gap, twisted to open it farther, and worked my way around the fob.

Closing it again after changing the battery took all the strength I had in both hands. If I'd been at home I probably would have used a bench vise to snap it closed. I didn't break it, but I think I came close.
Old 08-21-2008, 08:32 PM
  #35  
als2052
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Originally Posted by JimTN
GM says they should be good for about 3 years. Wal-Mart sells them.
I was at Wal Mart today and the ones they had were Eveready 2032 but no CR in front of the number. Is that the same??
Old 08-21-2008, 09:58 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by als2052
I was at Wal Mart today and the ones they had were Eveready 2032 but no CR in front of the number. Is that the same??
More than likely it is.

Check out these links:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Button_cell
http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/cr2032.pdf

"2032" refers to the size. It is 20 mm in diameter and 3.2 mm in height. So that's an exact match.

"R" means the battery is round. If the Everyready is round that will be a match as well.

"C" refers to the electrochemical system and the voltage. You need a 3 volt lithium battery for a match.

Check out post #13 above. A picture of an Energizer 2032 package is shown without the 'CR" but if you look close a "CR" is on the battery itself.

So....If the Eveready 2032 is round, lithium, and 3 volts it will work fine.

Last edited by wildcatter; 08-21-2008 at 10:04 PM.
Old 08-21-2008, 10:00 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by als2052
I was at Wal Mart today and the ones they had were Eveready 2032 but no CR in front of the number. Is that the same??

Yes, it is the same - as long as it says "2032" like the example below.

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Old 08-21-2008, 10:11 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by FAÇADE-C6
Yes, it is the same - as long as it says "2032" like the example below.

It is probably the same, but not necessarily. The "2032" refers only to the size of the battery. It could be the right size and the wrong voltage. See post #36 above. Need to also ensure that the battery is 3 volts.
Old 08-21-2008, 10:25 PM
  #39  
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Default Prongs inside

Make sure the the prongs on the inside are upright and not bent down. I had to open my fob and straighten the brass little prongs up awhile back as they were pressed down further than usual I thought. I closed the fob back up and business as usual again. NO PROBLEMS!!!
Old 08-21-2008, 11:26 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Eritosthenes
I'll second that. Use the thickest coin that will slide in the slot -- a nickel or a quarter. Once I got it started I inserted a dull knife blade into the gap, twisted to open it farther, and worked my way around the fob.

Closing it again after changing the battery took all the strength I had in both hands. If I'd been at home I probably would have used a bench vise to snap it closed. I didn't break it, but I think I came close.
A nickel is the perfect thickness to open without damage, and a little WD40 wiped on the gasket will make the reassembly a snap (literally)!

You won't find anything but the correct battery in a consumer store if it is labeled 2032.


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