Drilled NPP switch into my 08 console
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Drilled NPP switch into my 08 console
Came out OK, i think it looks like it came from the factory.
For those of you concerned about drilling into the console, its plastic, was fairly simple, no problems....
I like having the switch in a position easily accessible/viewable and the factory look (at least to me).
Aceman
For those of you concerned about drilling into the console, its plastic, was fairly simple, no problems....
I like having the switch in a position easily accessible/viewable and the factory look (at least to me).
Aceman
#8
If it eases your mind any, you can usually get great results by using a new or very sharp bit so it doesnt "walk". Thats always my fear.
Pick a flat spot, and know whats under it or remove the part to be drilled. Get a switch that will sit flat or look factory on the surface where you are putting it.
Go slow on the drill but dont bog it and dont use much pressure.
Had to drill 2 when I put in the cleansweep, nothing to it.
Pick a flat spot, and know whats under it or remove the part to be drilled. Get a switch that will sit flat or look factory on the surface where you are putting it.
Go slow on the drill but dont bog it and dont use much pressure.
Had to drill 2 when I put in the cleansweep, nothing to it.
#10
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St. Jude Donor '03,'04,'05,'07,08,'09,'10,’17
That looks like a great solution and it looks OEM ! Does the light stay on while the valve is in "factory" mode? Could we get part numbers and a few pics of the hole drilling ?
Well Done.
*edit* Jim Schindler and I were talking about this today. Where can you buy an adapter that fits in the fuse slot for wiring the line and load to?
Well Done.
*edit* Jim Schindler and I were talking about this today. Where can you buy an adapter that fits in the fuse slot for wiring the line and load to?
Last edited by need-for-speed; 07-12-2007 at 10:20 PM.
#11
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St. Jude Donor '03,'04,'05,'07,08,'09,'10,’17
If it eases your mind any, you can usually get great results by using a new or very sharp bit so it doesnt "walk". Thats always my fear.
Pick a flat spot, and know whats under it or remove the part to be drilled. Get a switch that will sit flat or look factory on the surface where you are putting it.
Go slow on the drill but dont bog it and dont use much pressure.
Had to drill 2 when I put in the cleansweep, nothing to it.
Pick a flat spot, and know whats under it or remove the part to be drilled. Get a switch that will sit flat or look factory on the surface where you are putting it.
Go slow on the drill but dont bog it and dont use much pressure.
Had to drill 2 when I put in the cleansweep, nothing to it.
I would be a little nervous drilling the console. But because it can be replaced - I could do it (like cutting a fan shroud for a CAI - you can always replace it) .
I like this method
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Process...
OK,
Some info...
First - to tap into the fuse, i bought "fuse taps" from pepboys. These are contacts that fit on the mini 10amp fuse, and extend beyond the back of the fuse where you can solder a wire to them. I then blew the fuse which is going to have the taps on it (I hope this makes sense).
I also purchased an inline mini 10 amp fuse & holder and extended 3 wires to the console area. the 3rd wire was for ground to light the LED.
I got a pilot rocker switch (flush) from autozone, needed to drill a 15/16ths hole (yes - that's the damn size).
I ended up going to Home Depot, buying a Uni-bit (drills several different sizes up to 7/8ths) from the tool section. There was no "walking" (actually did a test hole on the inside of the arm rest to make sure.
drilled the hole, little filing, and made the connections. also used some shrink tubing to cover all the connections.
Cost was less than $ 20.00 total, took about 1/2 hour.
With regards to the light - it lights up when in factory mode, and when i turn the car off, the light stays on if in this mode. I'm going to put a $ 5.00 relay which will be switched w/ an ignition wire to correct that so basically when in factory mode, the light will stay on, when in loud mode, it will go off (its easy to flip this if you like).
I have p/n's at my office for anyone that needs them, i hope its not a problem to post all that being that a couple of supporting vendors sell their own versions of this...
Aceman
Some info...
First - to tap into the fuse, i bought "fuse taps" from pepboys. These are contacts that fit on the mini 10amp fuse, and extend beyond the back of the fuse where you can solder a wire to them. I then blew the fuse which is going to have the taps on it (I hope this makes sense).
I also purchased an inline mini 10 amp fuse & holder and extended 3 wires to the console area. the 3rd wire was for ground to light the LED.
I got a pilot rocker switch (flush) from autozone, needed to drill a 15/16ths hole (yes - that's the damn size).
I ended up going to Home Depot, buying a Uni-bit (drills several different sizes up to 7/8ths) from the tool section. There was no "walking" (actually did a test hole on the inside of the arm rest to make sure.
drilled the hole, little filing, and made the connections. also used some shrink tubing to cover all the connections.
Cost was less than $ 20.00 total, took about 1/2 hour.
With regards to the light - it lights up when in factory mode, and when i turn the car off, the light stays on if in this mode. I'm going to put a $ 5.00 relay which will be switched w/ an ignition wire to correct that so basically when in factory mode, the light will stay on, when in loud mode, it will go off (its easy to flip this if you like).
I have p/n's at my office for anyone that needs them, i hope its not a problem to post all that being that a couple of supporting vendors sell their own versions of this...
Aceman
#14
Somebody posted on here in May with how install the same switch, they purchased their's from Radio Shack, but I don't remember how they wired it, I do remember that they added in line fuse, just don't remember how they hooked everything up, I bought a Mild2Wild so I could hear mine on the way home from the Museum, and turn it off if I got tired of it, but after reading how Jim liked his, I may just pull the fuse and throw it away.
#15
Team Owner
OK,
Some info...
First - to tap into the fuse, i bought "fuse taps" from pepboys. These are contacts that fit on the mini 10amp fuse, and extend beyond the back of the fuse where you can solder a wire to them. I then blew the fuse which is going to have the taps on it (I hope this makes sense).
I also purchased an inline mini 10 amp fuse & holder and extended 3 wires to the console area. the 3rd wire was for ground to light the LED.
I got a pilot rocker switch (flush) from autozone, needed to drill a 15/16ths hole (yes - that's the damn size).
I ended up going to Home Depot, buying a Uni-bit (drills several different sizes up to 7/8ths) from the tool section. There was no "walking" (actually did a test hole on the inside of the arm rest to make sure.
drilled the hole, little filing, and made the connections. also used some shrink tubing to cover all the connections.
Cost was less than $ 20.00 total, took about 1/2 hour.
With regards to the light - it lights up when in factory mode, and when i turn the car off, the light stays on if in this mode. I'm going to put a $ 5.00 relay which will be switched w/ an ignition wire to correct that so basically when in factory mode, the light will stay on, when in loud mode, it will go off (its easy to flip this if you like).
I have p/n's at my office for anyone that needs them, i hope its not a problem to post all that being that a couple of supporting vendors sell their own versions of this...
Aceman
Some info...
First - to tap into the fuse, i bought "fuse taps" from pepboys. These are contacts that fit on the mini 10amp fuse, and extend beyond the back of the fuse where you can solder a wire to them. I then blew the fuse which is going to have the taps on it (I hope this makes sense).
I also purchased an inline mini 10 amp fuse & holder and extended 3 wires to the console area. the 3rd wire was for ground to light the LED.
I got a pilot rocker switch (flush) from autozone, needed to drill a 15/16ths hole (yes - that's the damn size).
I ended up going to Home Depot, buying a Uni-bit (drills several different sizes up to 7/8ths) from the tool section. There was no "walking" (actually did a test hole on the inside of the arm rest to make sure.
drilled the hole, little filing, and made the connections. also used some shrink tubing to cover all the connections.
Cost was less than $ 20.00 total, took about 1/2 hour.
With regards to the light - it lights up when in factory mode, and when i turn the car off, the light stays on if in this mode. I'm going to put a $ 5.00 relay which will be switched w/ an ignition wire to correct that so basically when in factory mode, the light will stay on, when in loud mode, it will go off (its easy to flip this if you like).
I have p/n's at my office for anyone that needs them, i hope its not a problem to post all that being that a couple of supporting vendors sell their own versions of this...
Aceman
And yes, that all made sense to me. Great info. I'll be down at my local stores tomorrow pickingup the parts.
#16
Team Owner
It looks like it belongs there.
#17
Team Owner
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Location: Conroe Texas
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St. Jude Donor '03,'04,'05,'07,08,'09,'10,’17
OK,
Some info...
First - to tap into the fuse, i bought "fuse taps" from pepboys. These are contacts that fit on the mini 10amp fuse, and extend beyond the back of the fuse where you can solder a wire to them. I then blew the fuse which is going to have the taps on it (I hope this makes sense).
I..............................
Aceman
Some info...
First - to tap into the fuse, i bought "fuse taps" from pepboys. These are contacts that fit on the mini 10amp fuse, and extend beyond the back of the fuse where you can solder a wire to them. I then blew the fuse which is going to have the taps on it (I hope this makes sense).
I..............................
Aceman
Yessir - makes sense - well written
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
make sure...
you buy the fuse taps for the mini fuse! I went there the first time & couldn't remember if the 10amp fuse was a mini or "regular" size.
you can blow the fuse which you're plugging into the fuse panel by connecting a 12 volt dc source to the 2 wire leads using a couple of wires from just about any standard 12V ac adapter (be careful).
The switch comes in either blue / green / amber LED's, i obviously opted for the blue.
Also - i used 16awg wire just to play it safe, you don't need anything larger for this size load.
Good luck, PM me if you need p/n's
Aceman
you can blow the fuse which you're plugging into the fuse panel by connecting a 12 volt dc source to the 2 wire leads using a couple of wires from just about any standard 12V ac adapter (be careful).
The switch comes in either blue / green / amber LED's, i obviously opted for the blue.
Also - i used 16awg wire just to play it safe, you don't need anything larger for this size load.
Good luck, PM me if you need p/n's
Aceman
#19
Burning Brakes
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Why not just pick up the power from the hot side of a switched fuse like the radio and then return it to the proper outlet for the exhaust. That solves the switch light issue.
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
????
Tinstar -
can you explain further how that will work?
The switch has line & load & ground. The ground is what needs to be connected to get teh light to work - are you saying connect it to a +12V will do the trick???
Aceman
can you explain further how that will work?
The switch has line & load & ground. The ground is what needs to be connected to get teh light to work - are you saying connect it to a +12V will do the trick???
Aceman