Side Vent Screens (I know: here we go again!)
#61
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by Don LT-1
Oh my god. A Z-51 badge.
#63
Originally Posted by C62ENVY
Here's BLK on BLK... Will sell my kit I just purchased for 30.00 for 18.00 shipped anywhere in the U.S. USPS.
Pics of DIY.
Pics of DIY.
Sorry - this material looks like a cheese grater!
#64
Racer
Originally Posted by LilRedC6Vette
Sorry - this material looks like a cheese grater!
That's all right.... I can say CHEESE in my pocket ha ha ha ha
I would never consider 100.00 or higher for mesh.. But to each his own
#65
Originally Posted by Leon10003
Nice mods.....
I personally like the round hole ones......
http://www.c4dhr.com/red%20c6%20with...20vent%202.jpg
http://www.c4dhr.com/blackvent2.jpg
http://www.c4dhr.com/z06%20side%20grille%20cropped.jpg
I personally like the round hole ones......
http://www.c4dhr.com/red%20c6%20with...20vent%202.jpg
http://www.c4dhr.com/blackvent2.jpg
http://www.c4dhr.com/z06%20side%20grille%20cropped.jpg
Where those from?
#66
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jan 2004
Location: Memphis TN
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Originally Posted by ShockwaveTXB
I like that too...it's not a cheese grater and it looks nice.
Where those from?
Where those from?
#67
There are some Euro Grilles for sale on e-bay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corve...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corve...spagenameZWDVW
#68
Originally Posted by Leon10003
There are some Euro Grilles for sale on e-bay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corve...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corve...spagenameZWDVW
Sorry, I must be missing something here............what is EURO about a flat sheet metal with round holes punched through it, or that expanded galvanized "rain gutter" stuff?????? And why is this so HOT for the corvette C6?????????
I true woven wire mesh stainless steel (identical to the GM screens - at a fraction of the $$$) is far more aesthetic than this choice of material, or the others that are in this thread. IMHO RaceMesh is right on with achieving a high quality / eye candy product worthy of the C6.
Last edited by LilRedC6Vette; 10-15-2006 at 06:55 PM.
#69
Race Director
Originally Posted by LilRedC6Vette
Sorry, I must be missing something here............what is EURO about a flat sheet metal with round holes punched through it, or that expanded galvanized "rain gutter" stuff?????? And why is this so HOT for the corvette C6?????????
I true woven wire mesh stainless steel (identical to the GM screens - at a fraction of the $$$) is far more aesthetic than this choice of material, or the others that are in this thread. IMHO RaceMesh is right on with achieving a high quality / eye candy product worthy of the C6.
I true woven wire mesh stainless steel (identical to the GM screens - at a fraction of the $$$) is far more aesthetic than this choice of material, or the others that are in this thread. IMHO RaceMesh is right on with achieving a high quality / eye candy product worthy of the C6.
#70
Originally Posted by saplumr
I love my RaceMesh front grill but found the side vents impossible to install correctly so I put them in the necessary place...the trash can, and installed the GM parts.
Step One: (optional - remove wheel) Remove fasteners with forked screwdriver, and 3 screws from bottom of wheel well panel. NOTE: Removing the wheel is recommended, as it creates a much more comfortable work environment and easy access to the application area.
Step Two: Detach two contact points (bonded by double sided tape) of inner fender liner and push toward engine and secure it with masking tape to keep it out of the way while working on the application area. We used blue painters tape for this purpose as seen in pictures 5 & 6.
Step Three: ( VERY IMPORTANT STEP ) Clean the inner fender around the duct and then go over the area with rubbing alcohol to insure a clean surface so the 3M tape/epoxy has a clean surface to adhere to.
NOTE: As you probably noticed, the mesh material is flexible and can also be un-woven with a little effort as it has no weld points (which is the nature of the material). Given the flexibility of the mesh material, it can be contoured / bent to lay flat against the opening in preparation of the attachment step.
Step Four: Place the appropriate (notice that each is labeled) RaceMesh Precision Grille Fender Duct insert over the application area and secure or preferably "tack or position" the RaceMesh with the supplied double sided 3M tape as shown, and use RTV Clear Silicone in addition to the 3M double sided tape.
NOTE: We prefer a combination of a few small 3M tape contact points (to position and tack the RaceMesh in place), and RTV Silicone for secure permanent fabrication.
Included in each kit: 3M Tape & RTV Silicone - 3 oz. tube, plenty to get both inserts secured.
#71
Race Director
Originally Posted by LilRedC6Vette
Cool - but did you follow the instructions for the side vents?
Step One: (optional - remove wheel) Remove fasteners with forked screwdriver, and 3 screws from bottom of wheel well panel. NOTE: Removing the wheel is recommended, as it creates a much more comfortable work environment and easy access to the application area.
Step Two: Detach two contact points (bonded by double sided tape) of inner fender liner and push toward engine and secure it with masking tape to keep it out of the way while working on the application area. We used blue painters tape for this purpose as seen in pictures 5 & 6.
Step Three: ( VERY IMPORTANT STEP ) Clean the inner fender around the duct and then go over the area with rubbing alcohol to insure a clean surface so the 3M tape/epoxy has a clean surface to adhere to.
NOTE: As you probably noticed, the mesh material is flexible and can also be un-woven with a little effort as it has no weld points (which is the nature of the material). Given the flexibility of the mesh material, it can be contoured / bent to lay flat against the opening in preparation of the attachment step.
Step Four: Place the appropriate (notice that each is labeled) RaceMesh Precision Grille Fender Duct insert over the application area and secure or preferably "tack or position" the RaceMesh with the supplied double sided 3M tape as shown, and use RTV Clear Silicone in addition to the 3M double sided tape.
NOTE: We prefer a combination of a few small 3M tape contact points (to position and tack the RaceMesh in place), and RTV Silicone for secure permanent fabrication.
Included in each kit: 3M Tape & RTV Silicone - 3 oz. tube, plenty to get both inserts secured.
Step One: (optional - remove wheel) Remove fasteners with forked screwdriver, and 3 screws from bottom of wheel well panel. NOTE: Removing the wheel is recommended, as it creates a much more comfortable work environment and easy access to the application area.
Step Two: Detach two contact points (bonded by double sided tape) of inner fender liner and push toward engine and secure it with masking tape to keep it out of the way while working on the application area. We used blue painters tape for this purpose as seen in pictures 5 & 6.
Step Three: ( VERY IMPORTANT STEP ) Clean the inner fender around the duct and then go over the area with rubbing alcohol to insure a clean surface so the 3M tape/epoxy has a clean surface to adhere to.
NOTE: As you probably noticed, the mesh material is flexible and can also be un-woven with a little effort as it has no weld points (which is the nature of the material). Given the flexibility of the mesh material, it can be contoured / bent to lay flat against the opening in preparation of the attachment step.
Step Four: Place the appropriate (notice that each is labeled) RaceMesh Precision Grille Fender Duct insert over the application area and secure or preferably "tack or position" the RaceMesh with the supplied double sided 3M tape as shown, and use RTV Clear Silicone in addition to the 3M double sided tape.
NOTE: We prefer a combination of a few small 3M tape contact points (to position and tack the RaceMesh in place), and RTV Silicone for secure permanent fabrication.
Included in each kit: 3M Tape & RTV Silicone - 3 oz. tube, plenty to get both inserts secured.
#72
Originally Posted by saplumr
OH, I went by the instructions alright and fought for over an hour with "ONE" side. THOSE SUCK!!!! I pulled wheels, liners and installed the bolt in GM vents in 30 minutes and they will "NEVER" come loose.
So that's cool that you got the same results in less time, but that SUCKS that you had to spend the big $$$ for the GM units.
#73
Originally Posted by LilRedC6Vette
Sorry, I must be missing something here............what is EURO about a flat sheet metal with round holes punched through it, or that expanded galvanized "rain gutter" stuff?????? And why is this so HOT for the corvette C6?????????
I true woven wire mesh stainless steel (identical to the GM screens - at a fraction of the $$$) is far more aesthetic than this choice of material, or the others that are in this thread. IMHO RaceMesh is right on with achieving a high quality / eye candy product worthy of the C6.
I true woven wire mesh stainless steel (identical to the GM screens - at a fraction of the $$$) is far more aesthetic than this choice of material, or the others that are in this thread. IMHO RaceMesh is right on with achieving a high quality / eye candy product worthy of the C6.
the production process and not holes drilled in to a piece of metal.
I feel that the Euro Grilles offer a different look than the expanded metal (gutter guard) or the Race Mesh (woven metal)
If you are going for that expensive sports car look ( simular to grilles on a Ferrari or other high price sports) then the Euro Grilles are the way to go.
If you like the look of woven metal then the Race Mesh are the way to go.
The $300 GM Grilles are an over priced version of the Race Mesh Grille.
I have seen the GM Grilles installed on a C6 and they do not fit flush and have some play to them.
But having said my peace, It's all up to what each and every C6 owner is happy with.
#74
Race Director
Originally Posted by LilRedC6Vette
Well, I had no problems.
So that's cool that you got the same results in less time, but that SUCKS that you had to spend the big $$$ for the GM units.
So that's cool that you got the same results in less time, but that SUCKS that you had to spend the big $$$ for the GM units.
Yeah, I wasn't happy about throwing $70 away on the RaceMesh then turn around and spend $250 for GM, but I am more concerened about being satisfied than saving money. Also my RaceMesh side vents started breaking loose at the welds for some reason as I tried to install. But through all of the mess, the RaceMesh front grill is a snap to install and imposssible to beat for looks.
#75
Race Director
Originally Posted by Leon10003
The $300 GM Grilles are an over priced version of the Race Mesh Grille.
I have seen the GM Grilles installed on a C6 and they do not fit flush and have some play to them.
But having said my peace, It's all up to what each and every C6 owner is happy with.
Last edited by saplumr; 10-15-2006 at 09:15 PM.
#77
Originally Posted by saplumr
Yeah, I wasn't happy about throwing $70 away on the RaceMesh then turn around and spend $250 for GM, but I am more concerened about being satisfied than saving money. Also my RaceMesh side vents started breaking loose at the welds for some reason as I tried to install. But through all of the mess, the RaceMesh front grill is a snap to install and imposssible to beat for looks.
#78
Race Director
Originally Posted by LilRedC6Vette
Tech note FYI - RaceMesh, like the GM mesh, have no weld points. It is a true woven wire mesh cloth.
Well whatever it is ....it breaks in pieces. I ended up with 9 small pieces. How do you think they connect them, it is NOT one piece.
#79
Originally Posted by saplumr
Well whatever it is ....it breaks in pieces. I ended up with 9 small pieces. How do you think they connect them, it is NOT one piece.
#80
Drifting
Good post and good instructions. I sent a PM for a modified template and will try it. To me, it looks as good as the GM and just because it comes from GM does not make it better, after all GM gets it from some vendor and who knows, they may make both products.