Here are the instructions for the DIY oil page. This first post is now edited to include information gathered from posts below and elsewhere. The original post is at the end.
Disclaimer: Changing the oil involves lifting the car, messing with the oil and filter. A basic mechanical understanding is helpful, if not necessary. Don't work on the car when it is hot. Be very careful during all steps, or serious injury could occur. Be especially careful when jacking up the car and be sure it is secure on the jack stands. Also, getting on to the ramps without having them pop out or jump them can be tricky. Be Careful! Neither myself nor the forum take responsibility for the outcome here; these are just tips from my own experience. If you're unsure, get help or have it done professionally.
First, here is what you need:
1. Oil needed: 5.5 - 6.0 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-30
2. Filter needed: AC Delco PF 46 or equivalent. The C6 came with a PF 44, but it has been discontinued and the PF 46 is the replacement. Some use the Premium UPF 44, available from some forum vendors.
3. Jack or ramps. Some have done the change without it, but it is especially hard to get the filter off without a jack.
4. Oil filter wrench. Nearly impossible to get the filter off without it. I got one that attaches to my 3/8 inch socket driver.
5. 13 mm socket or wrench to get the plug out.
6. Oil pan to catch the old oil.
7. Funnel to get the new oil in.
Instructions:
1. Jack up the car. It is reasonably tricky to jack up the front of a Vette b/c it is pretty hard to get a jack underneath. I used a homemade ramp to lift it 4 inches, then placed the jack under the front crossmember, then jacked it up. Don't forget to bridge at least two crossmembers - I use a 4x10 piece of wood to do this.
2. Place the car on jack stands. I left the rear on the ramps, and placed the front on jack stands. I used pucks to avoid damage to the fiberglass body.
3. Drain the oil. First, take off the oil cap, then after placing the waste pan underneath the oil pan, remove the plug. This can be done with a 13 mm socket wrench.
4. Remove the filter with your trusty filter wrench.
5. Replace the filter with a new one. It helps to fill the filter with a small amount of oil, then lubricate the ring on the top with some oil. Tighten 3/4 of a turn after it reaches the engine.
6. Replace the oil plug. If you have a torque wrench, torque it to 18 lbs. Some buy and aftermarket magnetic plug to replace the original one. Don't overtighten or you could do some serious damage! Clean the undersurface of the car to avoid burning a little oil and so you can check for leaks after refilling.
7. Lower the car. Replace the jack, jack it up, remove the jack stands, and lower it back on to your ramps. Be sure to check the position of the ramps first.
8. Fill with oil. I'd add 5 quarts, then check the dipstick and slowly fill to full. You'll probably need 5.5 quarts, but some say the Z51 takes 6.0 quarts. I put in 5.5, rechecked the next morning, and added a little more.
9. Check under the car for leaks.
10. Reset your oil service indicator. On the DIC, go to oil change interval setting, then press and hold the reset button for a few seconds.
11. Fire her up and drive off the ramps!
This is the car on the jack stands, after using the ramps.
This is the hole for the pucks, and the pucks in the holes.
This is where to fill the oil. Remove the cap before draining so it drains faster.
Here comes the oil.
Here is a picture of the oil filter with the wrench.
Here is the original post:
Please help me recreate the DIY oil change thread. The link in the FAQs is broken. I understand there are some important things to know. Will some of you with experience in the matter help us out?
1. The capacity reads 5.5 quarts, yet I've read that it actually takes more like 6.5, possibly b/c of the oil filter capacity. True?
2. What kind of filter is needed?
3. Is is necessary to have the car level, or can we lift only the front end?
4. Any other tips / tricks we need to know?
5. Any other maintenance we should do at the same time?
Mine with the filter change takes exactly 5.5 qts.
PF46 or equivalent.
Some can change it without lifting it at all with socket extensions. I lift just the front with a quick pump jack on each side and my lifting pucks. That way I can lower it down to drain all the oil and then raise it back up to reinstall.
As for other maintenance, I always check fluids, check for leaks from tranny/diff and will change the air cleaners at the recommended interval.
There really isn't any tips or tricks, it's a very easy car to change the oil and filter on.
Mine with the filter change takes exactly 5.5 qts.
PF46 or equivalent.
Some can change it without lifting it at all with socket extensions. I lift just the front with a quick pump jack on each side and my lifting pucks. That way I can lower it down to drain all the oil and then raise it back up to reinstall.
As for other maintenance, I always check fluids, check for leaks from tranny/diff and will change the air cleaners at the recommended interval.
There really isn't any tips or tricks, it's a very easy car to change the oil and filter on.
Don't forget the rear tie rod end's on the Z51 get a shot of grease.
1. The capacity reads 5.5 quarts, yet I've read that it actually takes more like 6.5, possibly b/c of the oil filter capacity. True?
2. What kind of filter is needed?
.....
I let mine drain/drip for about 24 hours and mine took a little over 5.5 quarts to get to the full line on its first oil change. AC Delco UPF44 filter........ I wouldn't drain the oil with the front end raised if you want to get everything out.
Alright, I did it. Funny how this is the most expensive car I've bought by a long shot, yet the first time I even considered changing the oil myself. I've always gone to the dealer or those 10 minute places.
One thing I learned, the hard way - you definitely need a filter wrench. No way I could get it off by hand. I had to go to the store in my other car.
It took 5.5 quarts, as billed. Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-30, of course. After I finished, it took only 5, but I turned it on and let it run a few minutes. I then rechecked and it needed an extra 0.5 for a total of 5.5.
I've found the recommended filter is the AC Delco PF 46; yet the one I pulled off was numbered PF 44. Apparantly the PF 44 was discontinued. I understand there is a Premium UP 44; not sure what the difference is.
Finally, what's with these magnetic oil pan bolts? Why would I want to change this?
Okay, guess I will be the conflicting info side. I have done two oil changes since I got the car. In BOTH cases, with a filter change, it took 6 Qts even to fill the car up to the full mark on the dipstick. There is no way to put a half quart of oil in the filter. My vote goes for 6 qt changes.
I've found the recommended filter is the AC Delco PF 46; yet the one I pulled off was numbered PF 44. Apparantly the PF 44 was discontinued. I understand there is a Premium UP 44; not sure what the difference is.
Finally, what's with these magnetic oil pan bolts? Why would I want to change this?
You can buy the UPF44 fairly cheaply through CF dealers (Fred Beans or Ken Fitchner) if you buy a 6 filter carton...since filters don't really have a shelf life, the only negative is having to store them, but they don't take up much space. It's a premium GM filter and should have the same outside dimensions as the PF44. From CF dealers, it costs a little more than something you get from Pep Boys, but it's worth it to me.
Magnetic drain plugs...Actually not necessary and of dubious worth...but they may catch something. My opinion is the cost is nominal...why not. Also available from CF dealers.
For the mechanically retarded....what and where are the above..
Check your owner's manual page 2-22 under racing or other compeitive driving. Lube the fitting's after racing or at the regular maintenance. The correct part name is rear toe-link. They are inside each rear wheel. You can do it without removing the wheel. Don't use to much grease because it makes a mess on the inside of the wheel.
Corvette Store
DIY Oil Change - update -
Don't forget the rear tie rod end's on the Z51 get a shot of grease. 
