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[Z06] Rear toe rod length?

Old 03-24-2013, 11:02 PM
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69427
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Default Rear toe rod length?

I'm modifying a C4 suspension (to reduce the rear bumpsteer) and am trying to see if using C5 toe rods is an option. Can someone help me out with the length from the inner pivot out to the tie-rod? (I still have to dig up the taper specs on the tie-rod stud to see if it would fit the C4 knuckle.)

Thanks!

(The C4 suspension is under my '69 so by default I've had plenty of practice modifying and adapting assorted vintage parts.)
Old 03-29-2013, 11:33 PM
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Still hoping someone might be working under their car this weekend and can help me out with the toe link length.

Thanks.
Old 03-31-2013, 02:04 PM
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Moto One
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I think it's the pick-up points more then the length that will control your bump steer.

Mark.
Old 04-02-2013, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Moto One
I think it's the pick-up points more then the length that will control your bump steer.

Mark.
The pickup points determine both the geometry and the length. I'm trying to find out (unsuccessfully so far) if the C5 parts are of sufficient length. I can shorten the links, if necessary, but lengthening them is a bit of a headache. And I hate to buy parts before I know if they will work or not.
Old 04-03-2013, 12:57 PM
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Still need the info? I expect to have one of my rear wheels off this weekend for ride height adjustment.
Old 04-03-2013, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by skyavonee
Still need the info? I expect to have one of my rear wheels off this weekend for ride height adjustment.
Yeah, if you have an opportunity to put a tape measure to the link (from inner pivot axis out to the tie-rod end stud pivot) I would greatly appreciate it.
Old 04-04-2013, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 69427
Yeah, if you have an opportunity to put a tape measure to the link (from inner pivot axis out to the tie-rod end stud pivot) I would greatly appreciate it.
So this here? Or should the right end of the measurement be shifted to the left at all?




I should be able to check back in on Monday with the info.
Old 04-04-2013, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by skyavonee
So this here? Or should the right end of the measurement be shifted to the left at all?




I should be able to check back in on Monday with the info.
The red line is the pivot to pivot length I was asking about, yes. I appreciate your help.

ps: Looking at that stack of books I've got most of the same ones.
Old 04-04-2013, 09:28 PM
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As long is it's not greatly shortening the span in regards to the length of the component, should be ok. If it is you might have greater troubles for this geometry.
Old 04-05-2013, 08:12 AM
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Figure out what the thread is on the tie rod end, and then go to Midwest Control products web page and buy the correct length of tie rod that you want. Then inner rod can be a conventional rod end where it bolts to the subframe, and they have those there too. Since you are changing that from the stock C4 parts that is going to change anyway.

Since you want the right length, it's highly unlikely that you'll get it with stock parts so get it right and that will be easier in the long run.

Don't make it harder than it needs to be.
Old 04-05-2013, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Solofast
Figure out what the thread is on the tie rod end, and then go to Midwest Control products web page and buy the correct length of tie rod that you want. Then inner rod can be a conventional rod end where it bolts to the subframe, and they have those there too. Since you are changing that from the stock C4 parts that is going to change anyway.

Since you want the right length, it's highly unlikely that you'll get it with stock parts so get it right and that will be easier in the long run.

Don't make it harder than it needs to be.
I never do. I'm a design engineer by trade. It's not in my DNA to make life more complicated than it needs to be.

The stock C4, C5, C6 tie-rod ends are M14-1.5. Finding decent strength 14mm rod (threaded or not) is difficult.

The stock C5 toe rods appear to be close to what would work for my application, hence my reason for wanting more info on the length.

My backup plan is to use all SAE thread parts, but that would require reaming out the tie-rod stud bore in the knuckle to fit an older vintage tie-rod end (assuming I can find one with a sufficient length stud), along with a mixture of other parts. This option is likely to be more expense and labor than reworking a C5/C6 part.

I appreciate the suggestion of the MCP company. It looks like they have some handy stuff to offer.
Old 04-05-2013, 05:30 PM
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15 3/8 +/- 1/8

Old 04-05-2013, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by skyavonee
15 3/8 +/- 1/8

Thank you. I appreciate your time and efforts.
That length looks in the ballpark for what might work. Now I just gotta see if I can pick up a pair at a reasonable price to do a bit of mockup work.

Again, I appreciate your help.

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