FuglyHippo

I have a 2002 Z06 with the C6Z Manifolds/H pipe/Stock axlebacks. To be honest, the car seems to of quieted down a tad after that install. What I want to know.. is with a stock motor, what's the biggest cam I can go till you can detect the car is cammed by the average ear? Stock the LSA is 117.5, and the stock LSA of a 2001 LS6 is 116. So maybe I can get away with 115?

Been looking at the EPP Blower cam. Eventually want a centri, but for now it doesn't seem like a bad cam for N/A. Think it will sound too lopey compared to stock?

EPP's Blower cam - 232/240 .595''/.608 115

Thanks in advance!
-Hippo

Silnus

Haha na brother that has nothing to do with it. What you have to be conceded with is overlap. Overlap, in your case, is the enemy. You want something with like -4* of overlap. You using stock manifolds, this cam has worked in the past. 218 /230, .605/.604 115+3 LSA. This cam favors the exhaust side, which you would need using manifolds and it has around -4* of overlap. Should pass emissions.

FuglyHippo

Interesting. Thanks Silnus.

I should be more specific though. I just want the idle to not be chopy.

Thanks,
-Hippo

zeevette

I switched to a blower cam when I installed my A&A Vortech system. It's specs are 224-232@116, and about .590 lift. It works great, and is almost undetectable, but I do miss the lope. May I ask why you went to the trouble of doing the exhaust, and not just getting LTs?

FuglyHippo

My car is more quiet now than it was stock. It also gave me a considerable gain in power. Plus it was very cheap.

skyavonee

The lope on that cam will definitely be more noticeable than stock. You'll need to go smaller.

Yeah, sounds like the OP will want negative overlap. In case he's unaware, Overlap = (intake duration+exhaust duration)/2 - 2*LSA. So the EPP cam he mentioned above has (232+240)/2 - 2*115 = +6 degrees.

I was thinking the biggest he wants to go is around 224/230 on a 115 (-3 degrees of overlap), so that's pretty similar to what you have.

Paul 75 L82

Why would want a cam that you couldn't hear? To each his own but that's something that I can't understand. I love to hear a nice lope.

skyavonee

My 219/223 on a 114 is plenty loud enough for my daily driver. I'm reminded it's there every time I start it up, but I'm still able to listen to music or carry on a conversation if I want to. Different strokes for different folks.

thechosenone

This is verbatim from a guy who knows his stuff. He has spec'd many cams for me and others in the past with 100% success. And is going to be doing another one for me here soon.

Use Comp XE lobes and 918 springs to keep the valve clatter down.

216/220 .561/.564 115LSA +3 advance

If this were a 6 speed, +1 advance, but for an automatic, you want +3 advance to have all of your power in by 6000-6100 rpm (to preserve tranny life and give more grunt down low with stock stall).

Hp increase will be around 35rwhp threw an automatic. Will sound stock as it ever was.

thechosenone

I know a few cars that run the cam I just recommend that have a 250 shot that hustle people all day. People think they are in a stock ls1 F-body but in reality its quick as heck and runs nice 1/8th times.

ZEE-OH-6

This is the LS7 EXHAUST manifold right ? I have read conflicting opinions that will NOT fit / function because of the shape of the exhaust ports. I like the fact that visually they pass smog and I believe you get some HP gains right ???

FuglyHippo

Thanks for the info everyone, I've learned quite a bit.

And as for the exhaust, I love it. It works great. I feel the motor actually runs cooler with it. I gained 16rwhp with the Exhaust from the dyno of 362rwhp with a Halltech Intake. It gave me quite a bit middle range ranging up to 25+ along with the 16 peak. It makes my car more quiet now than stock as well. My mothers Ford Fusion makes more noise at idle, which is why I figured I might get away with the bigger cam.

As I said, I am currently 378.77rwhp/367.98rwtq. ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrA_8Pyqpgo ) I actually am working on a WOT actuated cutout system that instantly switches to Open 3 inch H-Pipe under a WOT switch. Somewhat like the system in the C6Z's but it's WOT actuated, not RPM and it uses door popper solenoids rather than vacuum. Hence why it's so loud in the video. Under normal conditions of DD'ing I want the car as quiet as a Buick with road manners similar to stock, but at WOT, I want the car to make people jump in their seat. Hope this explains it better Paul.

"Use Comp XE lobes and 918 springs to keep the valve clatter down.

216/220 .561/.564 115LSA +3 advance"

You said this setup gains about 35rwhp through an auto? Makes me wonder if it was a gain via and LS1 and not an LS6 since you say auto. How much of a gain would this cam give me from my C5Z? If it's a real world sub 25rwhp, I don't see the point in the swap. I would prefer to make atleast 50ish putting me in the 420-430 range.

Thanks again for the responses guys!
-Hippo

thechosenone

That cam should put you around 400rwhp, only thing holding you back is a set of long tube headers. If you go any bigger it will get noticeable in the sound while at idle. Cams are easy to swap out just time consuming on vettes.

I would go with that cam if you are wanting a true sleeper sound.

skyavonee

I'd be very surprised to see those gains with that cam on an LS6.

thechosenone

Take it up with Pat G then. Ill take his word and his many years of experience vs. general forum knowledge.

skyavonee

Can't be done with a cam that sounds even remotely similar to stock. You need to lower your power expectations or raise your idle noise expectations.

skyavonee

Maybe he was talking about going from an untuned LS1 with intake and headers to a tuned LS1 with intake/headers/cam. Then 35 would be reasonable from that cam.

More realistic numbers from a small cam on a LS6 that has already been tuned can be seen here:
corvetteforum.com/c5-z06-discussion/dyno-gains-from-219-223-607-610-cam-results.html

thechosenone

Will probably be more around 25-30 but this is with LTH and a tune.

FuglyHippo

Ok.. This might sound dumb... But why can't I just advance the 115 by +4 degrees.

Does advancing cam timing help the cam settle a tad at idle?

I also want to retain the 6500 redline. What would happen if I got the EPP blower cam at 119 degrees?

Thanks,
-Hippo

Edit. What about the intake/TB? Any real gains to be had there? I saw this. http://tpis.com/parts/view/39
This has gotta add something. With heads I feel 440rwhp stock appearing/sounding c5z is obtainable. Which is my goal.

skyavonee

You can; nothing's stopping you. Advancing the cam timing pushes the power band lower in the rpm range. I'm not sure how much it will effect idle quality.

My guess is it'll make great power above ~5k rpm but will be really weak below ~4k rpm. Here's a good comparison of a big cam vs small cam:
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...t/viewall.html
Take note of the final dyno chart.

With heads, that power should be obtainable, and you shouldn't even need a big cam. Just go with a small/mid-sized cam and a well-matched set of heads.