[Z06] >>>List of C5Z06's with failed valvesprings, not always high mileage<<<.....PICS.
#261
Racer
2002, Z06, VIN 112144, 66k miles. I just got this car, it has an A&A Supercharger kit and i dont know if the springs has been done or not.
I will lift the valvecovers and check, however before i do that i'd like to get some questions answered.
1. Which springs are recommended to use?
2. Are the other spare parts needed to do the swap other than a set of valve cover gaskets, air tool for valve and spring compressor? (I understand that i need wrenches etc)
3. Replace valve stem seals while in there, or not?
Thanks!
I will lift the valvecovers and check, however before i do that i'd like to get some questions answered.
1. Which springs are recommended to use?
2. Are the other spare parts needed to do the swap other than a set of valve cover gaskets, air tool for valve and spring compressor? (I understand that i need wrenches etc)
3. Replace valve stem seals while in there, or not?
Thanks!
Definitely replace the valve seals - don't mix-up the brown exhaust ones with the black intakes. The cover gaskets might not be necessary. If they look ok (not brittle, still intact and supple), I see no reason to change them. The oil that's sitting there is not under pressure and is not prone to leaking.
#263
Racer
#264
Pro
#265
Burning Brakes
You might be able to remove the oil cap and shine a flash light down into it to see. I could and mine are definitely yellow but.... from a early build of 09/01.
#266
Premium Supporting Vendor
A quick follow-up: I was very lucky! The spring on the #1 exhaust valve broke in the middle. It collapsed the spring, somewhat, but still kept the valve from falling down. I drove it 30 miles in this condition making sure that the rpm's never went above `2k. I installed a set of Petersen springs (PAC 1518 - $216 from New Era Performance, Rochester, NY), and a new set of seals - I kept the same trunions. I've always wanted to put a set of "ARH headers on my Z, but was holding-off because I always knew from reading this forum that I should deal with the valve springs, first. Now that they're changed, and thanks to Steve Doten and Don Kinder, I've purchased a set of ARH's and hope to have Don tune her before the end of the month.
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FIRST C7 IN THE 9's....ARH Equipped.
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FIRST C7 IN THE 9's....ARH Equipped.
631-608-1986 ext. 101
Email: steve@americanracingheaders.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/americanracingheaders
Web: www.AmericanRacingHeaders.com
USAF/OIF VETERAN
#267
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 2013
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
I like the Peterson springs (PAC 1518): they're nitrided (more resistance to metal fatigue/fracture) and made in the US. It's not a difficult job, but not one I'd want to do more than once - my time is more important to me.
Definitely replace the valve seals - don't mix-up the brown exhaust ones with the black intakes. The cover gaskets might not be necessary. If they look ok (not brittle, still intact and supple), I see no reason to change them. The oil that's sitting there is not under pressure and is not prone to leaking.
Definitely replace the valve seals - don't mix-up the brown exhaust ones with the black intakes. The cover gaskets might not be necessary. If they look ok (not brittle, still intact and supple), I see no reason to change them. The oil that's sitting there is not under pressure and is not prone to leaking.
#268
Racer
Well, I was lucky on the valve spring issue, but not so lucky on the ARH's. When I got home with the headers, I noticed that the drivers' side header did not have the air fitting between the 2nd & 3rd cylinder. When I removed the cardboard padding that was on the front of the header, there was the air fitting, on the #1 cylinder tube. There's no way that this header would work on a C5 as it is too close to the alternator. I don't hold Don responsible for this mistake, but someone at ARH must have shipped a set of Corvette headers that were made for something other than a Corvette. I'm glad I noticed this before I started removing the stock exhaust.
#269
Racer
First, "Very low mileage" is subjective and you might want to quantify that. Even if it were under 5k miles, I wouldn't take the chance because a set of new ones is only $44. If you reuse them and you notice a puff of smoke after every cold-start, it means you have to remove all the springs, again.
#270
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 2013
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
First, "Very low mileage" is subjective and you might want to quantify that. Even if it were under 5k miles, I wouldn't take the chance because a set of new ones is only $44. If you reuse them and you notice a puff of smoke after every cold-start, it means you have to remove all the springs, again.
Thanks.
#272
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
#273
Melting Slicks
I always wondered why GM changed them mid-model year. Do you suppose they discovered a quality issue with the yellows? Maybe some 2002s started breaking while the 2003s were being manufactured? Hmm...
#274
Pro
Yes, you can see them looking in the filler cap. Later 2003 and 2004 Z06s did not have the yellow springs. The yellows do seem to be at much higher risk.
I always wondered why GM changed them mid-model year. Do you suppose they discovered a quality issue with the yellows? Maybe some 2002s started breaking while the 2003s were being manufactured? Hmm...
I always wondered why GM changed them mid-model year. Do you suppose they discovered a quality issue with the yellows? Maybe some 2002s started breaking while the 2003s were being manufactured? Hmm...
Sounds good, I will try and peek in through the oil fill. I figured if I have to go in and do the spring swap I might as well do the Harland Sharp rocker upgrade at the same time and be done with it.
I'm pretty sure it has to be done as there are no records of them ever getting replaced through the history of the car.
Is there an alternative way to hold the valve up in the head while replacing the springs? I have an air hose adapter for the spark plug but my air compressor is really small and I don't trust it to do a good enough job.
As far as GM replacing springs, they probably did a running revision considering the risk of failures to be low, or was it ever replaced under warranty or recalled somehow?
#275
Racer
[QUOTE=Larzmat;1587387964]Is there an alternative way to hold the valve up in the head while replacing the springs? I have an air hose adapter for the spark plug but my air compressor is really small and I don't trust it to do a good enough job.[QUOTE=Larzmat;1587387964]
I had a hard time removing the collapsed spring, which was the exhaust on the #1 cylinder. My Emglo, which I've had since I was building houses 40 years ago, is also a small compressor (2-1 1/2 gallon tanks) which will put-out 105 psi, but I couldn't keep enough pressure in the cylinder while using the dual spring compressor tool. So, I brought the piston to TDC, using a 15/16" off-set box wrench on the crankshaft pulley - an easy matter with all the spark plugs out. On other springs, I did use the compressor - but I didn't feel that comfortable doing it. I felt more comfortable with the piston at the top.
I had a hard time removing the collapsed spring, which was the exhaust on the #1 cylinder. My Emglo, which I've had since I was building houses 40 years ago, is also a small compressor (2-1 1/2 gallon tanks) which will put-out 105 psi, but I couldn't keep enough pressure in the cylinder while using the dual spring compressor tool. So, I brought the piston to TDC, using a 15/16" off-set box wrench on the crankshaft pulley - an easy matter with all the spark plugs out. On other springs, I did use the compressor - but I didn't feel that comfortable doing it. I felt more comfortable with the piston at the top.
#276
Burning Brakes
Sounds good, I will try and peek in through the oil fill. I figured if I have to go in and do the spring swap I might as well do the Harland Sharp rocker upgrade at the same time and be done with it.
I'm pretty sure it has to be done as there are no records of them ever getting replaced through the history of the car.
Is there an alternative way to hold the valve up in the head while replacing the springs? I have an air hose adapter for the spark plug but my air compressor is really small and I don't trust it to do a good enough job.
As far as GM replacing springs, they probably did a running revision considering the risk of failures to be low, or was it ever replaced under warranty or recalled somehow?
I'm pretty sure it has to be done as there are no records of them ever getting replaced through the history of the car.
Is there an alternative way to hold the valve up in the head while replacing the springs? I have an air hose adapter for the spark plug but my air compressor is really small and I don't trust it to do a good enough job.
As far as GM replacing springs, they probably did a running revision considering the risk of failures to be low, or was it ever replaced under warranty or recalled somehow?
#277
Race Director
First, "Very low mileage" is subjective and you might want to quantify that. Even if it were under 5k miles, I wouldn't take the chance because a set of new ones is only $44. If you reuse them and you notice a puff of smoke after every cold-start, it means you have to remove all the springs, again.
and mileage really doesn't matter, it's age. rubber hardens as it ages
#278
Drifting
A.c.[QUOTE=zeke2u;1587388492][QUOTE=Larzmat;1587387964]Is there an alternative way to hold the valve up in the head while replacing the springs? I have an air hose adapter for the spark plug but my air compressor is really small and I don't trust it to do a good enough job.
I had a hard time removing the collapsed spring, which was the exhaust on the #1 cylinder. My Emglo, which I've had since I was building houses 40 years ago, is also a small compressor (2-1 1/2 gallon tanks) which will put-out 105 psi, but I couldn't keep enough pressure in the cylinder while using the dual spring compressor tool. So, I brought the piston to TDC, using a 15/16" off-set box wrench on the crankshaft pulley - an easy matter with all the spark plugs out. On other springs, I did use the compressor - but I didn't feel that comfortable doing it. I felt more comfortable with the piston at the top.
No problem with compressing
he cylinder with air. It doesn't require much air pressure to hold the valve up.
Even heard of people changing them with out doing anything. The valves are at such an angle they will not fall through.
If the valve does drop just grab the top of the stem and pull it back up as long as each cylinder is at the top.
Replace the seals when you change the springs, it's cheap.
Another thing to consider is the comp trunion upgrade. No sense in adding aftermarket rockers unless you are changing ratios.
The stock rockers are lighter weight than most aftermarket rockers and can cause excessive hammering on the valve train.
Keep in mind the exhaust valves are sodium filled stems and are hollow.
I had a hard time removing the collapsed spring, which was the exhaust on the #1 cylinder. My Emglo, which I've had since I was building houses 40 years ago, is also a small compressor (2-1 1/2 gallon tanks) which will put-out 105 psi, but I couldn't keep enough pressure in the cylinder while using the dual spring compressor tool. So, I brought the piston to TDC, using a 15/16" off-set box wrench on the crankshaft pulley - an easy matter with all the spark plugs out. On other springs, I did use the compressor - but I didn't feel that comfortable doing it. I felt more comfortable with the piston at the top.
he cylinder with air. It doesn't require much air pressure to hold the valve up.
Even heard of people changing them with out doing anything. The valves are at such an angle they will not fall through.
If the valve does drop just grab the top of the stem and pull it back up as long as each cylinder is at the top.
Replace the seals when you change the springs, it's cheap.
Another thing to consider is the comp trunion upgrade. No sense in adding aftermarket rockers unless you are changing ratios.
The stock rockers are lighter weight than most aftermarket rockers and can cause excessive hammering on the valve train.
Keep in mind the exhaust valves are sodium filled stems and are hollow.
#279
Advanced
I just bought a 30k mile 2002 Z06 from a fellow forum member this past monday. Built in Feb 02, VIN 24000. I checked down the oil filler cap, and have got the yellow springs. I'm ordering new springs and getting them swapped out asap. So glad I stumbled on this thread!
Last edited by Freshbake; 07-20-2014 at 12:44 AM.