JuicedH22

So over the winter, I decided it was time to say bye bye to the tired LS6 that has served me well, and do some upgrades. I had many conversations back and forth with both SpinMonster and Brian Tooley (and several others) on exactly what I wanted to do for my build. I had been thinking 416ci block and some basic ls3 heads, and other crazy ideas. In the end, I decided I would be be served putting my money in the top end, and both Spin and Brian were very helpful in helping me choose where I wanted to go.

here is the spec sheet:

-LS3 short block from new 2011 camaro (bought from SLP Performance)
-TrickFlow 235 heads, milled 0.040" (11.68:1 CR) w/ powdered metal valve guides and custom exhaust valve sizing for my app. + some anti-detonation work to chambers (compliments of Mr. Brian Tooley)
-Platinum valve springs
-stock rockers with COMP trunion upgrade kit
-FAST102 intake (port matched by B. Tooley)
-LGM G6X3 cam
-LGM Pro long tube headers (no cats) - stock Ti exhaust
-LS7 lifters (after deciding CTS-VR lifters (aka "caddy racing lifters") were not for me)
-Melling 10296 high pressure/high volume oil pump
-Katech C5R timing chain
-ATI super damper (917278 - 10%/10% underdrive)
-McLeod RST twin disk clutch
-Tick master/slave + remote bleed
-Vararam Intake
-Vararam Power Duct
-LS2 90mm throttle body, with 90mm ring on intake - hand polished ID

Other add-ons include: MGW short shifter, CCW classics (see my repair thread in the wheel/tire forum for restoration project on those), Sparco Torino seats.

Wheel restoration thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/whee...storation.html

parts...


out with the old, in with the new... (cam swaps are so much easier when there is no car in the way, or lifters in the engine)



Also, took a picture to show the difference between the CTSVR lifters and the LS7 lifters... The snap ring and length of the roller shaft is noticable, as well as the oiling hole location (CTSVR on right)
[/QUOTE]

JuicedH22

You would think for a $1000 intake that you would get some good craftmanship...


sharp edges, joints didnt line up, gaps in shells...

So, with some 2-part epoxy and my sweet sanding skills, I filled the gaps, and smoothed the edges and seams.



The motor coming together too...


measured for pushrod length and checked PTV...

pushrods were ~7.3625" at zero lash (11 1/4 turns on 6.80" checker) so looks like 7.425" pushrods will be what I run. (yes i used a solid lifter for test)

PTV.... well here is where things are getting interesting...

First the process.

I bought some pottery clay (sort of like modeling clay) because it seemed less sticky and more compliant. I put a thin layer of oil on the piston also to keep it from sticking. I first made a complete round ~0.2" thick piece, mounted it, and sat the head on, to get the outline of the combustion chamber. Then I cut out the unneed area, including lower half...



Put the head on, bolted down. Using some solid (welded hydos) lifters from Kevin, and the checker pushrod at zero lash, I then spun the motor around a few times. Here was the result:



I didnt like all the flat area, thought it might give me an inaccurate measurement, so I made a 2nd piece with the clay and did it again.



(The cellophane was used to keep the clay from sticking to the head/valves)

And here are the results...


It was hard to get an accurate measurement when you are dealing with 0.010" accuracy, but between the scale and the dial calipers it appears the PTV clearance on the intake is somewhere between 0.063"-0.070". Ideally the minimum is 0.080"
The exhaust was over 0.125" so not worried on that side...


SOOOO time to do the dial indicator method and get a more accurate reading on clearance.


(ignore the value, not zero'd in the pic)

Exhaust side:
Valve drop: 0.230"
PTV: 0.120"

Intake side:
Valvedrop: 0.190"
dial indicator PTV: 0.055"

Time to flycut!

taped off the engine:


Isky flycutting tool and modified head... (Thanks again to Brian Tooley!)



Pretty time consuming, measure 18 times, cut once... repeat 7 more times. Once done, I also went back and sanded the sharp edges to a small radius, to prevent hot spots.


Once done, reassembled and re-checked PTV.... This time had 0.080" on intake side... good to go!

Disassemble head, clean deck of head and block, new headgaskets, and reassembled and final torque with ARP hardware...



Now to upgrade stock rocker arms with the COMP cam trunion kit...

First, press out old bearings....


After cleaning, and lubing the bore, press in 1st bearing...


Install trunion, flip over (placing washer on portion of trunion that sticks out), and press on other bearing...


Then just put the snap rings on, and done. Super Easy....


After that, I used the lathe to machine some spacers to replace the hillbilly washer stack i had been using under the fuel rail (which allows me to run the stock rail on the fast intake)


I didnt take any pictures of the rockers/pushrods installed, but nothing special there anyway...

Decided to paint the intake... (rustoleum satin black for plastics)




Used some matte (flat) black high temp paint on the fuel rail and throttle body...


and reassembled with freshly powdecoated valve covers...

jjtoma

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What was the sale price on those LS3 short blocks?

Intake valves are 2.08?

Nice Build (waiting to see this combination for a while!)

thanks

Jim

ctusser

Those heads should be killer. The majority of the ported LS3 heads just haven't put out really good power; good choice there.

JuicedH22

$2500 on ebay from slperformance's page good deal IMO!

JuicedH22

A BIG thanks goes out to the guys at (unnamed shop for rules?) for letting me use the space in their shop, and the great mechanics for giving me a hand with the hard work!

finding a nice cozy space at Cincy Speed and hoodless...


on the way out...


body apart from drivetrain/powertrain...



pulling the stuff i want to keep off the old motor...


out with the old, in with the new...


ATI rebuilding...




McLeod Twin Disk on...


Tick master cylinder, and remote bleeder...



Starting to settle into its new home...


and in...

JuicedH22

Still needs a base tune (KDoe in FTW), then put some miles on it, then final tune, then dyno... (yes, that means i do not have dyno numbers yet, before you ask)







It's amazing how a corvette can make 335 tires look so tiny...


http://youtu.be/qjq0zQTS_Gg

tlove32

LS3 + TFS 235 heads + LG6X3 + FAST102 = Over 500rwhp.


That's one very nice setup

RockJustBelow

...similar to my ECS built LS3 with head/cam package, 501 RWHP/468 RWTQ. You should be north of those numbers!

nstyzo6

VERY nice build / Ride!! Cant wait to see final #'s

AU N EGL

Engine ****

84REDCROSSFIRE

Nice build

ChaseZ06

Awesome, looks amazing!

skeeters65

You ended up painting the entire CCW's after all that polishing??
They look sweet!!

ZedO6

Nice to see such meticulous attention to detail and a professional DIY install.

I'm sure the dyno numbers will not disappoint.

FourG63 97GST

nice build, hope you have good luck with those CTSV lifters

ZedO6

Not using CTS lifters....

JuicedH22

^^ Yup, what he said.

Thanks guys!

Yes, after doing all that work, I decided that I didnt like the idea of having to polish them every month just to keep them nice! At first I was just going to clear coat them to protect them, but decided to go a different direction.

jjtoma

"-TrickFlow 235 heads, milled 0.040" (11.68:1 CR) w/ powdered metal valve guides and custom exhaust valve sizing for my app. + some anti-detonation work to chambers (compliments of Mr. Brian Tooley)"

Sorry, earlier I missed asking about exhaust valve size. (must be CRS)

Thanks again

Jim

JuicedH22

225 sized valves, 1.575"